You can buy an inexpensive torque wrench for USD $20 or so. Nonetheless, to strip an oil pan bolt by overtightening it would take real effort. Even an ape would think something was wrong first. My bet would be on cross-threading rather than ruination by overtightening. JRE – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > probably cost more than a torque wrench! > Wow. The oil pan for my 1985 Mercedes can be had for $32.44 and the gasket > is $6.97. Why are the bimmer parts so expensive. Are you people just talking > about dealer prices? Maybe www.buyeuroparts.com has lower prices? > Richard
> Then drill and tap the hole to size. Use a stop on the drill so > that you DO NOT hit the crankshaft or oil pickup or whatever else > might be above the hole. Flush the hole *liberally* with > kerosene or a lightweight oil. Add oil. Idle the engine until > warm. Drain it, change the filter, and refill.
If you grease the drill bit, and use a slow speed, the swarf will stick to the drill. But in any case, the swarf will be too large to get through the oil pump strainer. Personally, I favour the helicoil method. It retains the same plug – get a new one if there’s signs of damage – so won’t confuse a BMW mechanic. — *If you’re not part of the solution, you’re part of the precipitate * RIP Acorn
What I would do: Find an oil pan bolt from any manufacturer that will fit an oversize hole, perferably a magnetic one. Pay attention to the design of the bolt and whether it needs a (usually aluminum) gasket. Then drill and tap the hole to size. Use a stop on the drill so that you DO NOT hit the crankshaft or oil pickup or whatever else might be above the hole. Flush the hole *liberally* with kerosene or a lightweight oil. Add oil. Idle the engine until warm. Drain it, change the filter, and refill. JRE – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Gentleman…. the inference was that I stripped the bolt. I did not. I just > noticed it too late to bring it to the attention of the business responsible > for stripping it. > If anyone has any suggestions on how to repair the damage, I would greatly > appreciate it.
> > > I would not try to use a helicoil in the sump as the space between the > > pan and coil may leak too. > Strange advice. They’re commonly used for spark plugs where the pressure > is high and the seal is critical. > Go away and do some learning. 
> Sorry guys, but I disagree with both above statements. > Oil WILL seep thru the backside of helicoil inserts just like it will > seep through any threads. The wicking action of fluids is a powerfull > force.
Of course it will, so a helicoil is no different in practice. Hence the use of a sealing washer on most spark plugs and drain plugs. If you want to stop fluids weeping past a thread where there is no sealing washer – like say a stud that goes into the water jacket – you use a thread sealer like ScotchGuard 336. — *Taxation WITH representation ain’t much fun, either. RIP Acorn
> > I would not try to use a helicoil in the sump as the space between the > pan and coil may leak too. > Strange advice. They’re commonly used for spark plugs where the pressure > is high and the seal is critical. > Go away and do some learning.
Sorry guys, but I disagree with both above statements. Oil WILL seep thru the backside of helicoil inserts just like it will seep through any threads. The wicking action of fluids is a powerfull force. Off the topic, but related. Ever seen an air conditioning hose that will leak a/c oil (a fluid), but not a/c freon (a gas). I have, many times. But the wicking action doesn’t stop helicoils from being an effective repair of stripped drain plugs in BMW cast aluminum pans. That’s because the crush seal is large enough to cover the helicoil, so it seals them just as it does the threads of the drain plug. The biggest problem I find with using helicoils for drain plugs is that some oil pans have a rather thin wall at the drain plug boss. All sheet metal pans for instance. Since helicoils are locked in place from their spring pressure, you need at least 6-8 threads for them to stay in place. And FWIW, a smart mechanic will immediately call the customer when he finds weak drain plug threads. In many cases the problem has been building up for a while and the last guy to touch it is not necessary the culprit. He just wasn’t smart enough to call. Respectfully, Dave
>have determined the threads were stripped on my oil pan. bought the factory >bolt and it is too small now. >the larger bolt in there now fits snuggly, but oil drips from it. >is there a long term solution for this problem without replacing oil pan? >any suggestions to my problem are greatly appreciated. >Jay
You didn’t say what model your "325i" is (E30, E36, E46) but i know the E30 drain bolt has a 12mm x 1.5 thread (the same as the lugbolts 
I have heard of people running a 14mm x 1.5 tap through the drain hole which leaves it with nice fresh threads (of course using grease on the tap to catch the aluminum shavings, then pouring a few sacrificial quarts of warm thin oil through the engine to flush any remnants out), then using a 14mm x 1.5 drain bolt and washer from a 4-cylinder Mercedes. I’ve heard it works, but never got feedback from people i’ve recommended it to so i don’t know for a fact that it works. I was going to try it to restore the weak threads on my previous E30 but never got the chance to…… Randy 89 325is
> I would not try to use a helicoil in the sump as the space between the > pan and coil may leak too.
Strange advice. They’re commonly used for spark plugs where the pressure is high and the seal is critical. Go away and do some learning. — *If at first you don’t succeed, then skydiving definitely isn’t for you * RIP Acorn
probably cost more than a torque wrench! Wow. The oil pan for my 1985 Mercedes can be had for $32.44 and the gasket is $6.97. Why are the bimmer parts so expensive. Are you people just talking about dealer prices? Maybe www.buyeuroparts.com has lower prices? Richard
> have determined the threads were stripped on my oil pan. bought the factory > bolt and it is too small now. > the larger bolt in there now fits snuggly, but oil drips from it. > is there a long term solution for this problem without replacing oil pan? > any suggestions to my problem are greatly appreciated.
Jay, A couple of thoughts: The main reason drain plugs get stripped is the mechanic drops the sealing washer in the drain pan and doesn’t notice so attempts to seal the plug with brute force. Oil drain plugs (unlike transmission and differential drainplugs) are NOT tapered. Tightening more will not seal them better. They all need sealing washers of some type. Usually the washer is made of soft aluminum or copper material which is more maleable than the plug or sump. If the oversize plug you have now is mechanically OK, you can put a sealing washer on it which should stop the dripping. Saab makes (and uses) a rubber coated metal washer for their drain plugs. I believe it may fit your drain plug, but you would have to verify sizes to be sure. If the current plug is not threaded correctly, they sell oversize drain plugs at auto supply houses for just this kind of thing. That along with the sealing washer previously mentioned should fix you up. I would not try to use a helicoil in the sump as the space between the pan and coil may leak too. Fred
Gentleman…. the inference was that I stripped the bolt. I did not. I just noticed it too late to bring it to the attention of the business responsible for stripping it. If anyone has any suggestions on how to repair the damage, I would greatly appreciate it.
> have determined the threads were stripped on my oil pan. bought the > factory bolt and it is too small now. > the larger bolt in there now fits snuggly, but oil drips from it. > is there a long term solution for this problem without replacing oil pan? > any suggestions to my problem are greatly appreciated.
Helicoil insert. Can be done without removing the pan. Basically, with a special tap you make a new thread. Then insert the wire helicoil (with a special tool) which locks in place. You end up with the same size as original thread. It can be DIY’d if you’ve got the skills (can’t everything) but the kit is fairly pricey as it contains enough coils to do several same size threads. About 30 gbp depending on size. So perhaps better to get an engineering workshop to do it. — *Proofread carefully to see if you any words out or mispeld something * RIP Acorn
have determined the threads were stripped on my oil pan. bought the factory bolt and it is too small now. the larger bolt in there now fits snuggly, but oil drips from it. is there a long term solution for this problem without replacing oil pan? any suggestions to my problem are greatly appreciated. Jay
Not really, but how expensive is a new lower pan? Richard
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> have determined the threads were stripped on my oil pan. bought the factory > bolt and it is too small now. > the larger bolt in there now fits snuggly, but oil drips from it. > is there a long term solution for this problem without replacing oil pan? > any suggestions to my problem are greatly appreciated. > Jay
> … how expensive is a new lower pan?
Costs more than a torque wrench.
> > … how expensive is a new lower pan? > Costs more than a torque wrench.
The pan gasket will probably cost more than a torque wrench! You can take the pan off and get it repaired. I reckon you’d have to pretty very careless indeed to strip the threads. What on earth was the person who did it thinking?
Did you get into this machine from the front or the back? A 3 year old GE would have the clutch fastened to the motor with a clip and be in the front. The older ones were in the back and had a roll pin , which is a part # WZ11X50 connecting the drive cap thing to the motor shaft. The actual clutch is connected to the motor shaft further down inside with a little clamp that looks similar to a muffler clamp. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’ve got a 3 year old GE washing machine that will not spin. I opened > in up and found out that the pin that goes through the motor drive > shaft and also sits in the groove in the clutch to get it to spin was > shattered. > I figured that’d be an easy enough repair…called ge and a few other > repair place and they do not sell this pin separately and I need to > buy a whole new motor even though there is nothing wrong with the > motor itself. All I need is the pin which is a hollow piece of metal > tubin that is maybe 3/4 inch long. > Can that be purchased? Anyone else have any ideas how to repair this > without it costing a fortune. > I’m never buying another ge appliance again…three year old house and > had a repair man out once for the dishwasher, twice for the washing > machine and now this…
Hi, Does not have to be OEM part. Try hardware store or small engine repair shop. Take a broken piece along to match it. Good luck, Tony – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’ve got a 3 year old GE washing machine that will not spin. I opened > in up and found out that the pin that goes through the motor drive > shaft and also sits in the groove in the clutch to get it to spin was > shattered. > I figured that’d be an easy enough repair…called ge and a few other > repair place and they do not sell this pin separately and I need to > buy a whole new motor even though there is nothing wrong with the > motor itself. All I need is the pin which is a hollow piece of metal > tubin that is maybe 3/4 inch long. > Can that be purchased? Anyone else have any ideas how to repair this > without it costing a fortune. > I’m never buying another ge appliance again…three year old house and > had a repair man out once for the dishwasher, twice for the washing > machine and now this…
A cotter pin will also work about as well as a shear pin or a nail. The Sears hardware store in my area has a small bin with the rest of their nuts and bolts that has those roll pins. They do come in various lengths and diameters. They must be pressed in to the shaft where they’re supposed to stay on their own. A nail set is one tool you can use to remove and even insert the pins. A nail will also do in a pinch. You can put it in with a hefty pair of pliers or even a C-clamp – just make sure it doesn’t impede the rotation when you’re all done. Those pins are made of hardened steel. If it broke, there’s a good chance something else jammed and the pin broke to protect something more expensive, i.e. the motor, gears, transmission, etc. Make sure everything else moves freely before and after replacing the pin. Bob M. ======
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It’s called a shear pin. I would think a place that repairs outboard motors > would have one that would fit. > > > I figured that’d be an easy enough repair…called ge and a few other > > > repair place and they do not sell this pin separately and I need to > > > buy a whole new motor even though there is nothing wrong with the > > > motor itself. All I need is the pin which is a hollow piece of metal > > > tubin that is maybe 3/4 inch long. > > > Can that be purchased? Anyone else have any ideas how to repair this > > > without it costing a fortune. > > > I’m never buying another ge appliance again…three year old house and > > > had a repair man out once for the dishwasher, twice for the washing > > > machine and now this… > > you can probably go to any hardware store and look to see it they have > > them(i think they are call roll pins) also try auto parts stores… you > > probably not gonna find it on a shelf in either type store but it will > > be behind the counter in a metal case where they sell loose washer, > > screw, nuts, bolts and other small specialty parts… should not cost > > you more that 3 for $1.00… if you can salvage the old one or a piece > > of it then take it with you.. alot easier to show what you want than to > > describe it… if there is a harbor freight store in your area then you > > can get a whole tray of them, about 1000 for $10.00, > > go to www.harborfreight.com and see if they have a local store in your > > area…. > > ir none of the above works, how about a nut and bolts???? depending on > > where it goes????
I’ve got a 3 year old GE washing machine that will not spin. I opened in up and found out that the pin that goes through the motor drive shaft and also sits in the groove in the clutch to get it to spin was shattered. I figured that’d be an easy enough repair…called ge and a few other repair place and they do not sell this pin separately and I need to buy a whole new motor even though there is nothing wrong with the motor itself. All I need is the pin which is a hollow piece of metal tubin that is maybe 3/4 inch long. Can that be purchased? Anyone else have any ideas how to repair this without it costing a fortune. I’m never buying another ge appliance again…three year old house and had a repair man out once for the dishwasher, twice for the washing machine and now this…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’ve got a 3 year old GE washing machine that will not spin. I opened > in up and found out that the pin that goes through the motor drive > shaft and also sits in the groove in the clutch to get it to spin was > shattered. > I figured that’d be an easy enough repair…called ge and a few other > repair place and they do not sell this pin separately and I need to > buy a whole new motor even though there is nothing wrong with the > motor itself. All I need is the pin which is a hollow piece of metal > tubin that is maybe 3/4 inch long. > Can that be purchased? Anyone else have any ideas how to repair this > without it costing a fortune. > I’m never buying another ge appliance again…three year old house and > had a repair man out once for the dishwasher, twice for the washing > machine and now this…
you can probably go to any hardware store and look to see it they have them(i think they are call roll pins) also try auto parts stores… you probably not gonna find it on a shelf in either type store but it will be behind the counter in a metal case where they sell loose washer, screw, nuts, bolts and other small specialty parts… should not cost you more that 3 for $1.00… if you can salvage the old one or a piece of it then take it with you.. alot easier to show what you want than to describe it… if there is a harbor freight store in your area then you can get a whole tray of them, about 1000 for $10.00, go to www.harborfreight.com and see if they have a local store in your area…. ir none of the above works, how about a nut and bolts???? depending on where it goes????
is it a roll pin that he needs? he could try a nail . cut the nail slightly longer and smash the end (leave the head on),so that it won’t come out from either direction – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve got a 3 year old GE washing machine that will not spin. I opened > in up and found out that the pin that goes through the motor drive > shaft and also sits in the groove in the clutch to get it to spin was > shattered. > I figured that’d be an easy enough repair…called ge and a few other > repair place and they do not sell this pin separately and I need to > buy a whole new motor even though there is nothing wrong with the > motor itself. All I need is the pin which is a hollow piece of metal > tubin that is maybe 3/4 inch long. > Can that be purchased? Anyone else have any ideas how to repair this > without it costing a fortune. > I’m never buying another ge appliance again…three year old house and > had a repair man out once for the dishwasher, twice for the washing > machine and now this… > you can probably go to any hardware store and look to see it they have > them(i think they are call roll pins) also try auto parts stores… you > probably not gonna find it on a shelf in either type store but it will > be behind the counter in a metal case where they sell loose washer, > screw, nuts, bolts and other small specialty parts… should not cost > you more that 3 for $1.00… if you can salvage the old one or a piece > of it then take it with you.. alot easier to show what you want than to > describe it… if there is a harbor freight store in your area then you > can get a whole tray of them, about 1000 for $10.00, > go to www.harborfreight.com and see if they have a local store in your > area…. > ir none of the above works, how about a nut and bolts???? depending on > where it goes????
It’s called a shear pin. I would think a place that repairs outboard motors would have one that would fit. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > I figured that’d be an easy enough repair…called ge and a few other > > repair place and they do not sell this pin separately and I need to > > buy a whole new motor even though there is nothing wrong with the > > motor itself. All I need is the pin which is a hollow piece of metal > > tubin that is maybe 3/4 inch long. > > Can that be purchased? Anyone else have any ideas how to repair this > > without it costing a fortune. > > I’m never buying another ge appliance again…three year old house and > > had a repair man out once for the dishwasher, twice for the washing > > machine and now this… > you can probably go to any hardware store and look to see it they have > them(i think they are call roll pins) also try auto parts stores… you > probably not gonna find it on a shelf in either type store but it will > be behind the counter in a metal case where they sell loose washer, > screw, nuts, bolts and other small specialty parts… should not cost > you more that 3 for $1.00… if you can salvage the old one or a piece > of it then take it with you.. alot easier to show what you want than to > describe it… if there is a harbor freight store in your area then you > can get a whole tray of them, about 1000 for $10.00, > go to www.harborfreight.com and see if they have a local store in your > area…. > ir none of the above works, how about a nut and bolts???? depending on > where it goes????