I attached the drywall panels using screws but some screws didn’t find their target so I had to remove them. Removing them created holes with a bump on the perimeter of the hole. To explain it another way, the drywall sheet’s paper is indented away from the drywall board creating a bump. so while I can fill it with drywall compound but the bumps make it not smooth. Is there a tool or technique to fix this ?
> I attached the drywall panels using screws but some screws didn’t find > their target so I had to remove them. Removing them created holes with > a bump on the perimeter of the hole. To explain it another way, the > drywall sheet’s paper is indented away from the drywall board creating > a bump. so while I can fill it with drywall compound but the bumps > make it not smooth. Is there a tool or technique to fix this ?
Yeah, it’s called a hammer. Whack the high spot into a depression. It takes practice. If you only have a few, use the ROUND end of a ball peen hammer placed into the empty hole, and press hard, or use a board to tap the other head of the hammer. aem sends…
With a TROLL tool
If you are going to do more of this don’t pull the screw out. That just pulls the paper back and causes the problem you are having now. Just give the screw a light tap with your hammer to put the screw head below the surface of the paper and then compound. To repair the pulled paper just tap the area with the but end of your knife to depress it a little and compound.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I attached the drywall panels using screws but some screws didn’t find > their target so I had to remove them. Removing them created holes with > a bump on the perimeter of the hole. To explain it another way, the > drywall sheet’s paper is indented away from the drywall board creating > a bump. so while I can fill it with drywall compound but the bumps > make it not smooth. Is there a tool or technique to fix this ?
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I attached the drywall panels using screws but some screws didn’t find > their target so I had to remove them. Removing them created holes with > a bump on the perimeter of the hole. To explain it another way, the > drywall sheet’s paper is indented away from the drywall board creating > a bump. so while I can fill it with drywall compound but the bumps > make it not smooth. Is there a tool or technique to fix this ? > Yeah, it’s called a hammer. Whack the high spot into a depression. It takes > practice. If you only have a few, use the ROUND end of a ball peen hammer > placed into the empty hole, and press hard, or use a board to tap the other > head of the hammer. > aem sends…
The hammer works. The handle end of your drywall knife works. Anything that make a dimple works. As a newbie you may want to place a utility knife blade about a 1/4" into the hole and held at a 45 degree angle to the wall and rotate it 360 degrees. Kinda like cutting a hole in the top of an orange so you can get the juice out.
I had a roof leak in a 2nd floor bedroom in my home which caused the drywall on the ceiling around an HVAC register to become wet. It was wet enough that water dripped to the carpet below. I’m not sure if the water which dripped to the carpet came through the drywall itself or between the register and the surrounding drywall. When the drywall company came out to repair it a few months ago (the house is about a year old so it was still under warranty) they claimed the drywall was not damaged (and knocked on it a couple times to show me) and simply put some mud over the water stain. This was never painted, and I can still see the water stain. I’ve got my one-year drywall repair coming up soon. Should I ask them to replace this drywall? At this time I don’t detect anything wrong with the drywall (i.e. the paper is still good, it’s not crumbling) except for the water stain which wasn’t painted over.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had a roof leak in a 2nd floor bedroom in my home which caused the > drywall on the ceiling around an HVAC register to become wet. It was > wet enough that water dripped to the carpet below. I’m not sure if > the water which dripped to the carpet came through the drywall itself > or between the register and the surrounding drywall. > When the drywall company came out to repair it a few months ago (the > house is about a year old so it was still under warranty) they claimed > the drywall was not damaged (and knocked on it a couple times to show > me) and simply put some mud over the water stain. This was never > painted, and I can still see the water stain. > I’ve got my one-year drywall repair coming up soon. Should I ask them > to replace this drywall? At this time I don’t detect anything wrong > with the drywall (i.e. the paper is still good, it’s not crumbling) > except for the water stain which wasn’t painted over.
Unless it leaked very heavy or for a long period of time most likely the drywall is fine. Crumbling, bubbling and taped seems separating are the signs of failure. The water stain will bleed through most latex based paints forever. It can as you have described come through a thin skim coat of drywall mud. The proper way is to prime the affected area with a "stain killing" primer like Benz or Kiltz and then paint the entire ceiling with the finish coat. Sounds to be like your builder needs to properly take care of this for you. Colbyt
> I had a roof leak in a 2nd floor bedroom in my home which caused the > drywall on the ceiling around an HVAC register to become wet. It was > wet enough that water dripped to the carpet below. I’m not sure if > the water which dripped to the carpet came through the drywall itself > or between the register and the surrounding drywall. > When the drywall company came out to repair it a few months ago (the > house is about a year old so it was still under warranty) they claimed > the drywall was not damaged (and knocked on it a couple times to show > me) and simply put some mud over the water stain. This was never > painted, and I can still see the water stain.
It’s possible that the drywall wasn’t damaged and you just have a water stain, but if they put mud over the water stain, they don’t know what they’re doing. It needs a stain blocker. Generally, you put oil based stain blockers over water-soluble stains, and water based stain blockers over oil-soluble stains. Since the solvents are different, you won’t get bleedthrough. Not only is mud not a stain blocker, but it’s water soluble just like the water stain. When the stain got wet, it just soaked right through again. > I’ve got my one-year drywall repair coming up soon. Should I ask them > to replace this drywall? At this time I don’t detect anything wrong > with the drywall (i.e. the paper is still good, it’s not crumbling) > except for the water stain which wasn’t painted over.
No, just get some good stain blocker and spray or brush some on – a couple light coats are better than one thick one.
Nothing that wasn’t already covered in an earlier reply (3 hours ago) by another poster in the thread..
>Nothing that wasn’t already covered in an earlier reply (3 hours ago) by >another poster in the thread..
I think you are overlooking the fact that people have different newsfeeds and may receive articles in a different order than you do. In fact, some people may never receive certain articles, depending on the news server.
> Generally, you put oil based >stain blockers over water-soluble stains, and water based stain blockers >over oil-soluble stains. > Huh? > Where did that come from?
Common knowledge of the chemistry involved. If you paint with water based paint over a water soluble stain, then the paint acts as a solvent for the stain, and you are likely to get bleed through. Ever hear the saying water and oil don’t mix? For example, for stains on drywall due to water damage, generally an oil based stain blocker will work best. There are some products that are exceptions. Kilz Premium does a pretty good job even as a water based stain blocker. But in general, oil based stain blockers won’t allow water based stains to bleed through, and likewise water based stain blockers won’t allow so-called "solvent based" stains to bleed through. The solvents for the stains and primers are different. > While it’s likely the original poster has no drywall damage to be > concerned about. > The notion that a water based vs, shellac based over one or the other, > is absurd.
Actually, it’s correct in general. Do your homework. As paint technology evolves and water based products become more popular, they are coming out with more water based products that are improving at blocking water based stains.
> Actually, it’s correct in general. Do your homework.
Since you are too lazy: http://www.albany.ie/faq1.htm http://lexingtonpaint.com/howto/ceilings.htm http://www.thepaintconsultants.com/prod01.htm etc etc
> Listen close dork, the "oil" based products you’ve been spittin > about are a mix of acetone, alkyd, alcohol, tolune etc.. > Why the fuck do you think it’ll dry in 1/2 hour?
Red herring – just a diversion to hide the fact that you didn’t know a simple fact. > I’ve got thirty years in related trades. Don’t tell me to "do my > homework".
Fine. You’re one of those dogmatic clods that’s still doing things the way they were done 50 years ago. Technology has changed a bit bud, but hey don’t take time out from your busy day to learn anything new. Keep on keepin’ on pal….
Nothing that wasn’t already covered in an earlier reply (3 hours ago) by another poster in the thread.. Path: newsengine.sol.net!newsfeeds.sol.net!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsfeed.tpintern et.pl!atlantis.news.tpi.pl!news.tpi.pl!not-for-mail Newsgroups: alt.home.repair Organization: tp.internet – http://www.tpi.pl/ Lines: 1 NNTP-Posting-Host: polampackwww.canpack.com.pl X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.21/32.243 Cancelled for excessive stupidity.