Hi, Today the cable loop of my garage door opener(craftsman) broke. This is the steal cable go thru the cable pulley; this is NOT the chain nor the door spring. I called up a few service shops. It seems expensive to do the repair. Service alone costs $55 – $75 a hour depending on different shops. One shop quotes me $59 for the cable. That tiny cable costs that much seems like "stealing" (I can probably get a brand new garage door opener for under $200). Since only the cable loop is broken, I wonder if it can be repaired "somehow"? [NOTE: I live in San Jose Bay Area, CA] Do you think I can repair it myself? Is it easy? Where can I get the replacement cable? HomeDepot? Have you handy guys out there done something like that before? What is your experience? Thanks in advance. J.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, > Today the cable loop of my garage door opener(craftsman) broke. > This is the steal cable go thru the cable pulley; this is NOT the > chain nor the door spring. > I called up a few service shops. It seems expensive to do the repair. > Service alone costs $55 – $75 a hour depending on different shops. > One shop quotes me $59 for the cable. That tiny cable costs that much > seems like "stealing" (I can probably get a brand new garage door opener > for under $200). Since only the cable loop is broken, I wonder if > it can be repaired "somehow"? > [NOTE: I live in San Jose Bay Area, CA] > Do you think I can repair it myself? Is it easy? > Where can I get the replacement cable? HomeDepot? > Have you handy guys out there done something like that before? > What is your experience? > Thanks in advance. > J.
you might be able to fix the cable, but it might just break again.. two cables for an average garage door in a pack cost about $12 at home depot, lowes, ace hardware.. and in my case i go to the local Overhead garage door company that originally put the door up for the gen. contractor who built my house in 1972…. i find their cable a little better but the generic ones from home depot and lowes and ace did work for me over the years.. they have an eye that was squeezed on the end that is attached to the bottom of the garage door and also on the back of the packaging they show you how to put it on…. or you can go to their web site and view a clearer picture of it to see how easy it is done( i cant remember their web site)… think it is listed on the back of the package….
Go to the Sears site for parts and put in your model number of the opener and it will display a blowedup version /parts list for your door opener and you can order the part online. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > Today the cable loop of my garage door opener(craftsman) broke. > This is the steal cable go thru the cable pulley; this is NOT the > chain nor the door spring. > I called up a few service shops. It seems expensive to do the repair. > Service alone costs $55 – $75 a hour depending on different shops. > One shop quotes me $59 for the cable. That tiny cable costs that much > seems like "stealing" (I can probably get a brand new garage door opener > for under $200). Since only the cable loop is broken, I wonder if > it can be repaired "somehow"? > [NOTE: I live in San Jose Bay Area, CA] > Do you think I can repair it myself? Is it easy? > Where can I get the replacement cable? HomeDepot? > Have you handy guys out there done something like that before? > What is your experience? > Thanks in advance. > J. > you might be able to fix the cable, but it might just break again.. two > cables for an average garage door in a pack cost about $12 at home > depot, lowes, ace hardware.. and in my case i go to the local Overhead > garage door company that originally put the door up for the gen. > contractor who built my house in 1972…. i find their cable a little > better but the generic ones from home depot and lowes and ace did work > for me over the years.. they have an eye that was squeezed on the end > that is attached to the bottom of the garage door and also on the back > of the packaging they show you how to put it on…. or you can go to > their web site and view a clearer picture of it to see how easy it is > done( i cant remember their web site)… think it is listed on the back > of the package….
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Go to the Sears site for parts and put in your model number of the opener > and it will display a blowedup version /parts list for your door opener and > you can order the part online. > > Hi, > > Today the cable loop of my garage door opener(craftsman) broke. > > This is the steal cable go thru the cable pulley; this is NOT the > > chain nor the door spring. > > I called up a few service shops. It seems expensive to do the repair. > > Service alone costs $55 – $75 a hour depending on different shops. > > One shop quotes me $59 for the cable. That tiny cable costs that much > > seems like "stealing" (I can probably get a brand new garage door opener > > for under $200). Since only the cable loop is broken, I wonder if > > it can be repaired "somehow"? > > [NOTE: I live in San Jose Bay Area, CA] > > Do you think I can repair it myself? Is it easy? > > Where can I get the replacement cable? HomeDepot? > > Have you handy guys out there done something like that before? > > What is your experience? > > Thanks in advance. > > J. > you might be able to fix the cable, but it might just break again.. two > cables for an average garage door in a pack cost about $12 at home > depot, lowes, ace hardware.. and in my case i go to the local Overhead > garage door company that originally put the door up for the gen. > contractor who built my house in 1972…. i find their cable a little > better but the generic ones from home depot and lowes and ace did work > for me over the years.. they have an eye that was squeezed on the end > that is attached to the bottom of the garage door and also on the back > of the packaging they show you how to put it on…. or you can go to > their web site and view a clearer picture of it to see how easy it is > done( i cant remember their web site)… think it is listed on the back > of the package….
After having a refrigerator that leaked cold air for years, I finally figured out how to fix it. You can heat the vinyl gasket with a hair dryer. The heat makes it pliable so that the magnet can stick to the refrigerator. When it cools down it hardens back up with a form fitted seal. Was a great trick I figured out after ordering a replacement gasket that instructed me to submerge it in hot water to remove the creases. I didn’t need the new gasket, just a hair dryer.
>After having a refrigerator that leaked cold air for years, I finally >figured out how to fix it. You can heat the vinyl gasket with a hair dryer. >The heat makes it pliable so that the magnet can stick to the refrigerator. >When it cools down it hardens back up with a form fitted seal. Was a great >trick I figured out after ordering a replacement gasket that instructed me >to submerge it in hot water to remove the creases. I didn’t need the new >gasket, just a hair dryer.
Often kneading the affected areas of the gasket with a rag soaked in hot water works better and there’s no chance of melting it with the hair dryer. Dan O. – Appliance411.com http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=fridge+gasket =
Before you try and patch the door, I would use some spray foam insulation to fill the void, then patch. jm2c, tHAT
> Before you try and patch the door, I would use some spray foam insulation to > fill the void, then patch.
Be careful though, as some of these products expand so much that if you fill the cavity with the sprayed product the expansion can force the door apart, or at least put a noticeable bulge in it. Another thing to consider if there are more than one or two holes that need to be filled is that fact that a *new* hollow core door can be purchased for about 20 dollars. John
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> joint compound will suck in after drying. > spackle is firmer but you might have the same problem. > I’d use wood filler, especially seeing as though you’re willing to sand it > for a few seconds. It will dry very firm and won’t chip out later like > compound/spackle. > Regardless, you should probably use a little primer on that spot after > sanding, and then sand again on that spot. Else the color will show > through. All in all, its easy and fast, but you do have to wait for each > thing to dry. > What kind of filler will stick in a screw hole on a hollow-core door? I > want > to sand, smooth, and repaint it. Have you done this successfully? > -Bruce
bondo. it won’t shrink.
I used spakle and it worked but next time will use Bondo. >What kind of filler will stick in a screw hole on a hollow-core door? I want >to sand, smooth, and repaint it. Have you done this successful
Name works for E-mail
joint compound will suck in after drying. spackle is firmer but you might have the same problem. I’d use wood filler, especially seeing as though you’re willing to sand it for a few seconds. It will dry very firm and won’t chip out later like compound/spackle. Regardless, you should probably use a little primer on that spot after sanding, and then sand again on that spot. Else the color will show through. All in all, its easy and fast, but you do have to wait for each thing to dry.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What kind of filler will stick in a screw hole on a hollow-core door? I want > to sand, smooth, and repaint it. Have you done this successfully? > -Bruce
What kind of filler will stick in a screw hole on a hollow-core door? I want to sand, smooth, and repaint it. Have you done this successfully? -Bruce
> What kind of filler will stick in a screw hole on a hollow-core door? I want > to sand, smooth, and repaint it. Have you done this successfully? > -Bruce
Spackle. Yes.
>What kind of filler will stick in a screw hole on a hollow-core door? I want >to sand, smooth, and repaint it. Have you done this successfully? >-Bruce
Hi Hon, I would use joint compound to fill the hole. It is used on drywall and can be painted over just fine. Spackle is a little drier and it might not adhere as well as the more moist joint compound. If it is a larger screwhole and is hollow behind the hole you might want to countersink a larger screw in the hole so it has a backing before you add the joint compound. Just smooth it out with a putty knife and let it dry and after that you can sand it perfectly smooth if you need to and then just paint it. candice
Does anybody know how to repair a hole about the size of a lantern in a rain fly, don’t ask. Thanks for any and all help. Rich
> Does anybody know how to repair a hole about the size of a lantern in a rain > fly, don’t ask. > Thanks for any > and all help.
Sewn patch: use similar fabric (coated taffeta, get from Outdoors Wilderness Fabric 800-693-7467) spread fly out taut. Cut patch about 1" larger than hole, hem edges of patch with 1/4 hem. Pin to fly over hole, make fly is flat, taut and squared. Sew patch onto fly over where you hemmed the patch. Seal seam with Seamgrip. Penny S — Specialty Outdoors Modification & Repair of Outdoor Gear & Clothing Factory Authorized by The North Face www.specialtyoutdoors.com/whatis.htm
Hi, I have an amp that has the black tolex and it has a tear, that is actually down to the wood, on one side. Very small, actually, about 1cm square. Any ideas on how to repair this thing? Is there something made especially for amps, or would a hobby store or something similar have what I am looking for? Aaron
> Hi, > I have an amp that has the black tolex and it has a tear, that is > actually down to the wood, on one side. Very small, actually, about > 1cm square. > Any ideas on how to repair this thing? Is there something made > especially for amps, or would a hobby store or something similar have > what I am looking for? > Aaron
How about coloring it with a black Sharpy marker and ignore it. Glue it down if it’s flapping? It seems a bit small to be worried about. Pete — I’ve been shoved off better doorsteps than yours, I can assure you –Mr. Natural
Anyone have any idea how to repair a mirror? The backing has come off in a couple of small places and i’m looking for some way to repair it without having to buy new mirrors. ‘91 Olds Cutlass Supreme ‘92 Cavalier ‘97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo
:Anyone have any idea how to repair a mirror? The backing has come off in a :couple of small places and i’m looking for some way to repair it without having :to buy new mirrors. Actually, I have the same question, since my bathroom mirrors are very nice but really need to be resilvered. I heard that this used to be something you could get done but that nowadays it’s not so easy (or maybe impossible) to find.
> Anyone have any idea how to repair a mirror? The backing has come off in a > couple of small places and i’m looking for some way to repair it without having > to buy new mirrors. > ‘91 Olds Cutlass Supreme > ‘92 Cavalier > ‘97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo
They can be re-silvered at some glass places. You will have to ask around in your area. You will have to remove it to the place that does the re-silvering unless you want to pay for white glove service, (big $$$$). IF it is a mirror on an antique furniture piece, or a really old mirror, I’d think twice about it. It might negatively effect the value of it. You can also just decal over the area, strategically paint a border with glass paint, or ignore it. Pat
You can have a mirror resilvered but it’s only cost effective for antique or specialty mirrors. If there’s just one small area where the silver has flaked off you can try and bond a smaller mirror behind the damaged area or try a piece of silver mylar. It won’t be perfect!! Before you buy.
Or a piece of one of those AOL CD roms we all get. — Rick
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You can have a mirror resilvered but it’s only cost effective for > antique or specialty mirrors. > If there’s just one small area where the silver has flaked off you can > try and bond a smaller mirror behind the damaged area or try a piece of > silver mylar. It won’t be perfect!! > Before you buy.
> Anyone have any idea how to repair a mirror? The backing has come off in a > couple of small places and i’m looking for some way to repair it without having > to buy new mirrors.
Because of EPA regulations, it’s cheaper to buy a new mirror than have the old one repaired. — http://homepages.go.com/~tomjanis/ http://homepages.go.com/~aviontravelcade/ Before you buy.
: :>> Anyone have any idea how to repair a mirror? The backing has come off :>in a :>> couple of small places and i’m looking for some way to repair it :>without having :>> to buy new mirrors. :> :>Because of EPA regulations, it’s cheaper to buy a new mirror than have :>the old one repaired. : :Oh really? I simply took my 3×6 bathroom mirror off and had a glassman :cut an inch off the bottom of it. Since I took the mirror off and :reinstalled it myself it was a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a new mirror. :EPA be damned. I don’t think the EPA would give a damn if you cut an inch off your mirror.
> : > :>> Anyone have any idea how to repair a mirror? The backing has come > :>> off in a couple of small places and i’m looking for some way to > :>> repair it without having to buy new mirrors. > :>
I haven’t used this, but it looks good in the display at Home Depot: http://www.mirredge.com/ — Mark Hankins
:>
:> : :> :>> Anyone have any idea how to repair a mirror? The backing has come :> :>> off in a couple of small places and i’m looking for some way to :> :>> repair it without having to buy new mirrors. :> :> : :I haven’t used this, but it looks good in the display at Home Depot: :http://www.mirredge.com/ : :– :Mark Hankins Whatever it is, it couldn’t work for my bathroom mirrors. I have a medicine cabinet that’s evidently pretty old. I like it because it’s got a lot of character. There’s a standard cabinet door that opens on some hinges that are sorta rusty and caked with paint. All the wood looks OK to me, although I will want to strip and repaint to really restore this thing. The really nice thing about this piece is a couple of swinging side mirrors that enable you to see side views of your head. They are sections of a circle and the mirrors on them are too. The three mirrors would be hard to replace so I’m going to look into having them resilvered. They feature beveling at the edges, and I’d hate to even try to find replacements. Dan
One trick I use in salvaging antique mirrors that have damaged silvering in small spots is to simply remove the frame and place a small (say 2×2") mirror behind the damaged spot. It takes care of the cosmetic problem until you’re very close and costs about $1. Re-silvering is possible, though spendy, and from what I’ve read hard and potentially dangerous to attempt at home. -Derek — Derek R. Larson Indiana University Dept. of History "Let me go on record as stating that Mountain Dew, although a refreshing and enjoyable beverage, is NOT A CONTRACEPTIVE." -Ann Landers
I have an interior hollow door that is splitting on the edge with the hinges. This is an old door and I am trying to save it – the color and look would be hard to reproduce in a new door. Any suggestions for holding the hinges on tight? The problem is old, the previous owners have moved the the hinges around a couple of times. Toggle bolts perhaps? Thanks, Jeff
>I have an interior hollow door that is splitting on the edge with the >hinges. This is an old door and I am trying to save it – the color and look >would be hard to reproduce in a new door. Any suggestions for holding the >hinges on tight? The problem is old, the previous owners have moved the the >hinges around a couple of times. Toggle bolts perhaps?
It’s not too hard to custom match a stain to reproduce the look of the existing door (when applied on a new door). At some point, just starting with new is much easier than working a dead horse into the ground.
> >I have an interior hollow door that is splitting on the edge with the >hinges. This is an old door and I am trying to save it – the color and look >would be hard to reproduce in a new door. Any suggestions for holding the >hinges on tight? The problem is old, the previous owners have moved the the >hinges around a couple of times. Toggle bolts perhaps? > It’s not too hard to custom match a stain to reproduce the look of the existing > door (when applied on a new door). At some point, just starting with new is > much easier than working a dead horse into the ground.
I agree as hollow doors are cheap. If repair is a must try to inject yellow glue into the cracks and clamp down, but not too tight as to force all the glue out. Fill the oversized holes with wooded dowels with yellow glue – you could drill 1/4" holes and fill with 1/4′ dowels. If that still doesn’t work you still could fix it but its easier at this point to just get a new door.
> I have an interior hollow door that is splitting on the edge with the > hinges. This is an old door and I am trying to save it – the color and look > would be hard to reproduce in a new door. Any suggestions for holding the > hinges on tight? The problem is old, the previous owners have moved the the > hinges around a couple of times. Toggle bolts perhaps?
Take the door down and take it to a cabinet shop. Have them fit a new piece of wood in the edge and glue it all together.
>Take the door down and take it to a cabinet shop. Have them fit a new >piece of wood in the edge and glue it all together.
Heaven forbid it gets scratched in transport or repair. You can get a whole new hollow core door for $25. Custom matched stain (then sealer or varnish or poly) will still be needed to refinish the new edge. Why not use the money that the cabinet or mill shop will charge (and they may want more than $25.00) and replace the door.
> >Take the door down and take it to a cabinet shop. Have them fit a new >piece of wood in the edge and glue it all together. > Heaven forbid it gets scratched in transport or repair. You can get a whole new > hollow core door for $25. Custom matched stain (then sealer or varnish or poly) > will still be needed to refinish the new edge. Why not use the money that the > cabinet or mill shop will charge (and they may want more than $25.00) and > replace the door.
Yeah, I agree that if it’s a standard hollow core door it’s probably not worth trying to save, but Jeff seems to be attached to the thing. Of course, if it was me, I’d probably figure out how to repair the door myself, splicing in a piece of new wood, but without seeing the door and how it’s damaged it’s hard to guess at a good way to do that. One thing that would probably work would be to use a router to cut a slot in the door edge to remove all the splintered wood, then glue in a piece of wood cut to fit the slot. Some people might advocate drilling out the screw holes and gluing in pieces of dowel, but I’ve never found that approach to work very well. The dowel always ends up splitting, and the end grain doesn’t hold screws very well anyway.
Patch it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi All > Anyone know how to repair a cigarette burn on the outside of the sleeve >of a North Face Nupste Jacket. >Regards Becky
> Hi All > Anyone know how to repair a cigarette burn on the outside > of the sleeve > of a North Face Nupste Jacket. > Regards Becky > Seam grip and a small piece of matching fabric
Yup, that’ll work Penny S — Specialty Outdoors: sewing and repair for the outdoor enthusiast Factory Authorized by The North Face www.specialtyoutdoors.com Visit tips for making your own gear, too!
Hi All Anyone know how to repair a cigarette burn on the outside of the sleeve of a North Face Nupste Jacket. Regards Becky
> Hi All > Anyone know how to repair a cigarette burn on the outside of the sleeve > of a North Face Nupste Jacket. > Regards Becky
Seam grip and a small piece of matching fabric
I’ve been led to believe this has something to do with an interlock with the gas cap on the left side. Does anyone know where to look for this interlock or how to repair this?
I have solved this problem myself after getting a helpful email from the list. The problem was the gas cap interlock latch on the rear of the door. I was able to open the door by kicking it with both feet from the inside while holding the "open" handle on the door at the same time. Then I disabled the gas cap interlock after determining it was the cause. I set the child lock to "on" on this side so that the door can’t be openned from the inside. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’ve been led to believe this has something to do with an interlock with > the gas cap on the left side. Does anyone know where to look for this > interlock or how to repair this?
I’ve been led to believe this has something to do with an interlock with the gas cap on the left side. Does anyone know where to look for this interlock or how to repair this?
I have solved this problem myself after getting a helpful email from the list. The problem was the gas cap interlock latch on the rear of the door. I was able to open the door by kicking it with both feet from the inside while holding the "open" handle on the door at the same time. Then I disabled the gas cap interlock after determining it was the cause. I set the child lock to "on" on this side so that the door can’t be openned from the inside. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’ve been led to believe this has something to do with an interlock with > the gas cap on the left side. Does anyone know where to look for this > interlock or how to repair this?
My father-in-law bought a bargin in Sea Ranch CA with a sagging foundation due to improper drainage. Not a single door way was square. He dug underneath the foundation and using giant rented hydraulic jacks was able to level the house. He put in proper drainage and sold for a large profit within 3 months. Scooter – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Can someone tell me how to repair concrete that has dropped? Is it best >left to a professional or can this be a weekend project? Thanks > Do you mean like the whole foundation > dropped? My husband’s been helping a friend > repair a foundation that dropped. Sounds much > bigger than weekend project. He said that > they might as well build a whole new house. > Kapalua Internet Catalog http://www.KapaluaCatalog.com
Can someone tell me how to repair concrete that has dropped? Is it best left to a professional or can this be a weekend project? Thanks —