I’d use an air brush to fix the places you describe. Spray cans suck.
That depends on how thick you apply the paint. If you have a deep chip you need to layer it and take your time. — Steve
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->First off DON’T USE THE BRUSH. If you have found a color that actually >matches your paint there are some easy steps to use to fill a chip. >1. Clean the area thoroughly with a wax/grease remover. >2. Use a pencil type sander (glass fiber made by 3M) >3. Clean the area again. >4. Spot in primer (if needed) Use a round toothpick to transfer the >primer/paint. >5. Once dried lightly scuff the primer. Wipe area again. >6. Spot in paint as you did the primer. Make it SLIGHTLY higher than the >surrounding paint. >7. Use 1000 grit paper on a small block to sand paint level with >surrounding area. >8. Buff out area with a good polishing compound. >9. Wash the entire car and wax it. > The problem with this approach is that most metallic touch-up paints seem > to achieve a color match only when they are "blobbed" on. It seems like > the metal chips stay on top and the pigment settles to the bottom. Once > you sand down the blob, the color changes (usually darker) and the repair > looks worse than if you hadn’t levelled the repair in the first place.
—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> First off DON’T USE THE BRUSH. If you have found a color that actually > matches your paint there are some easy steps to use to fill a chip. > 1. Clean the area thoroughly with a wax/grease remover. > 2. Use a pencil type sander (glass fiber made by 3M) > 3. Clean the area again. > 4. Spot in primer (if needed) Use a round toothpick to transfer the > primer/paint. > 5. Once dried lightly scuff the primer. Wipe area again. > 6. Spot in paint as you did the primer. Make it SLIGHTLY higher than the > surrounding paint. > 7. Use 1000 grit paper on a small block to sand paint level with > surrounding area. > 8. Buff out area with a good polishing compound. > 9. Wash the entire car and wax it. > This is my idea of Hell Lite. > For even more in depth steps. > http://pages.sbcglobal.net/gorf/bmwtips/cleanpaintchip.html > And this is Hell. > Get the sharpie touch up, or use a toothpick with the brush on kind > and ignore the brush. Make it quick, make it passable. Wait a couple > of years for someone to hit you and then replace the hood, etc. Works > for me everytime. > JM
Amen, brother!
> I have used the brush-on type touchup paint to repair paint chips on > my white Honda accord. I have always found it difficult to get a > uniform amount of paint in the chip using the brush. Recently, I have > seen companies that offer touchup paint in aeorosol cans. They even > match the color to the model of your car. Has anyone tried aerosol > touch-up paint to repair paint chips with better results? I know some > offer paints in basecoat and clearcoat. Are there some good > instructions on how to repair a paint chip with aerosol touch up > paint? Thanks
I’ve been very pleased with the results of this product: http://www.langka.com/index2.htm
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > First off DON’T USE THE BRUSH. If you have found a color that actually > matches your paint there are some easy steps to use to fill a chip. > 1. Clean the area thoroughly with a wax/grease remover. > 2. Use a pencil type sander (glass fiber made by 3M) > 3. Clean the area again. > 4. Spot in primer (if needed) Use a round toothpick to transfer the > primer/paint. > 5. Once dried lightly scuff the primer. Wipe area again. > 6. Spot in paint as you did the primer. Make it SLIGHTLY higher than the > surrounding paint. > 7. Use 1000 grit paper on a small block to sand paint level with > surrounding area. > 8. Buff out area with a good polishing compound. > 9. Wash the entire car and wax it.
This is my idea of Hell Lite. > For even more in depth steps. > http://pages.sbcglobal.net/gorf/bmwtips/cleanpaintchip.html
And this is Hell. Get the sharpie touch up, or use a toothpick with the brush on kind and ignore the brush. Make it quick, make it passable. Wait a couple of years for someone to hit you and then replace the hood, etc. Works for me everytime. JM
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >First off DON’T USE THE BRUSH. If you have found a color that actually >matches your paint there are some easy steps to use to fill a chip. >1. Clean the area thoroughly with a wax/grease remover. >2. Use a pencil type sander (glass fiber made by 3M) >3. Clean the area again. >4. Spot in primer (if needed) Use a round toothpick to transfer the >primer/paint. >5. Once dried lightly scuff the primer. Wipe area again. >6. Spot in paint as you did the primer. Make it SLIGHTLY higher than the >surrounding paint. >7. Use 1000 grit paper on a small block to sand paint level with >surrounding area. >8. Buff out area with a good polishing compound. >9. Wash the entire car and wax it.
The problem with this approach is that most metallic touch-up paints seem to achieve a color match only when they are "blobbed" on. It seems like the metal chips stay on top and the pigment settles to the bottom. Once you sand down the blob, the color changes (usually darker) and the repair looks worse than if you hadn’t levelled the repair in the first place.
> I have used the brush-on type touchup paint to repair paint chips on > my white Honda accord. I have always found it difficult to get a > uniform amount of paint in the chip using the brush. Recently, I have > seen companies that offer touchup paint in aeorosol cans. They even > match the color to the model of your car. Has anyone tried aerosol > touch-up paint to repair paint chips with better results? I know some > offer paints in basecoat and clearcoat. Are there some good > instructions on how to repair a paint chip with aerosol touch up > paint? Thanks
Spray can be used with good results sometimes. Say it’s a small part you want to touch up and it has more than a few scratches. It might be better to take the part you want to touch up off the car, sand off the paint a bit and spray a thin layer, wait for it to dry, spray again, repeat for quite a few times. Even spray from left to right everytime. Don’t worry when the paint looks rough at first, it will smooth out. If you get bumps after painting with brush, use fine 2000 grit block to sand it down. Do it wet and do it in one direction only. See http://www.carcareonline.com/howto.aspx for some good info
> I have used the brush-on type touchup paint to repair paint chips on > my white Honda accord. I have always found it difficult to get a > uniform amount of paint in the chip using the brush. Recently, I have > seen companies that offer touchup paint in aeorosol cans. They even > match the color to the model of your car. Has anyone tried aerosol > touch-up paint to repair paint chips with better results? I know some > offer paints in basecoat and clearcoat. Are there some good > instructions on how to repair a paint chip with aerosol touch up > paint? Thanks
As revelation stated, the ‘Sharpie’ pen type is much better for small chips. Honda has them, but they are available elsewhere. Store upright in a cool place (not glove box), and the instructions are interesting (like you’d need to follow instructions to use a paint marker pen??) ‘Curly’
First off DON’T USE THE BRUSH. If you have found a color that actually matches your paint there are some easy steps to use to fill a chip. 1. Clean the area thoroughly with a wax/grease remover. 2. Use a pencil type sander (glass fiber made by 3M) 3. Clean the area again. 4. Spot in primer (if needed) Use a round toothpick to transfer the primer/paint. 5. Once dried lightly scuff the primer. Wipe area again. 6. Spot in paint as you did the primer. Make it SLIGHTLY higher than the surrounding paint. 7. Use 1000 grit paper on a small block to sand paint level with surrounding area. 8. Buff out area with a good polishing compound. 9. Wash the entire car and wax it. For even more in depth steps. http://pages.sbcglobal.net/gorf/bmwtips/cleanpaintchip.html Steve Williams
> I have used the brush-on type touchup paint to repair paint chips on > my white Honda accord. I have always found it difficult to get a > uniform amount of paint in the chip using the brush. Recently, I have > seen companies that offer touchup paint in aeorosol cans. They even > match the color to the model of your car. Has anyone tried aerosol > touch-up paint to repair paint chips with better results? I know some > offer paints in basecoat and clearcoat. Are there some good > instructions on how to repair a paint chip with aerosol touch up > paint? Thanks
—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
I have used the brush-on type touchup paint to repair paint chips on my white Honda accord. I have always found it difficult to get a uniform amount of paint in the chip using the brush. Recently, I have seen companies that offer touchup paint in aeorosol cans. They even match the color to the model of your car. Has anyone tried aerosol touch-up paint to repair paint chips with better results? I know some offer paints in basecoat and clearcoat. Are there some good instructions on how to repair a paint chip with aerosol touch up paint? Thanks
> I have used the brush-on type touchup paint to repair paint chips on > my white Honda accord. I have always found it difficult to get a > uniform amount of paint in the chip using the brush. Recently, I have > seen companies that offer touchup paint in aeorosol cans. They even > match the color to the model of your car. Has anyone tried aerosol > touch-up paint to repair paint chips with better results? I know some > offer paints in basecoat and clearcoat. Are there some good > instructions on how to repair a paint chip with aerosol touch up > paint? Thanks
The word "aerosol" is actually a Swahili term meaning "overspray gets all over the place and is impossible to get off the glass, chrome and the paint you didn’t want to get paint on". Aerosols are for large areas. They also go on thin and require lots of coats to build up to the level of surrounding paint. They’re messy and impossible to apply seamlessly on patches. Stick with the brush and live with the bumps. — TeGGeR
Hi My E30 318i Wont start, The battery went dead, took it out and put it on charge. Put another battery in my car and it ran ok.When my bateery was charged i put it back in and it wont start.The motor turns over(cranks)but doesnt start.It looks as if fuel pressure is fine and the immobiliser is disengaged(works on the starter motor anyway). I dont know a hel;l of alot about engines. I took the cap off what i think you call the coil(cylinder shaped unit with positive and negative connections on one end with a bigger "nipple" like connection between them). Anyway there is charge at the "coil" but no spark from the plugs. any suggestions???
> Hi > My E30 318i Wont start, The battery went dead, took it out and put it > on charge. Put another battery in my car and it ran ok.When my bateery > was charged i put it back in and it wont start.The motor turns > over(cranks)but doesnt start.It looks as if fuel pressure is fine and > the immobiliser is disengaged(works on the starter motor anyway). > I dont know a hel;l of alot about engines. I took the cap off what i > think you call the coil(cylinder shaped unit with positive and > negative connections on one end with a bigger "nipple" like connection > between them). Anyway there is charge at the "coil" but no spark from > the plugs. > any suggestions???
What’s the voltage being put out by the original battery? If the car runs fine with a "new" battery, then I’d suspect that the original is no longer able to carry a full charge. Kyle.
Will check the voltage, will either get a multimeter or put my mates battery in to see if it works then. thanks…. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi > My E30 318i Wont start, The battery went dead, took it out and put it > on charge. Put another battery in my car and it ran ok.When my bateery > was charged i put it back in and it wont start.The motor turns > over(cranks)but doesnt start.It looks as if fuel pressure is fine and > the immobiliser is disengaged(works on the starter motor anyway). > I dont know a hel;l of alot about engines. I took the cap off what i > think you call the coil(cylinder shaped unit with positive and > negative connections on one end with a bigger "nipple" like connection > between them). Anyway there is charge at the "coil" but no spark from > the plugs. > any suggestions??? > What’s the voltage being put out by the original battery? If the car runs > fine with a "new" battery, then I’d suspect that the original is no longer > able to carry a full charge. > Kyle.
Ok….. alot has happened since my last post….. Battery was ok. Still no start, no spark. Eventually took it to BMW, they called me up a day later saying that it was my immobaliser, They offered to take it out and return the car to orig BMW ignition spec for R750(2hrs labour) on top of a R385 diagnosis fee(total +- $180). I told them to fly a kite and i’ll collect the car, pay the diagnosis and get an auto electrician to remove the immob.When i went to collect the car they told me that they were able to start it the day before by "bypassing the immob"(I’m suspecting this was BS)I then asked them to start it for me so i could drive it to the auto elec.And to my surpise(whatever) they couldnt start it. SO i was R385 out of pocket and back at point one.Anyway…enough of BMTROUBLEYOU moans. They tried for hours to get it started but to no avail, Removed the immob and returned ignition etc to orig spec(in twenty min, not two hours that they had quoted me)…..and drumroll….. no spark.Removed the computer/control unit whatever you will…. tested it and no luck. They have been at it for another day and no luck…. Seems as if BMW hasnt got a clue on how to repair a car if its more than ten years old.(good backup hey) Anyone out there got any suggestions i can pass on to them….Please must be someone who has had the same problem. Thankyou in advance….
Has a good fuel flow
> > I’ve just > recently checked in and, as with many of the posters there, I’m on the > verge of completely abandoning this one. > C.R. Are you planning on abandoning alt.autos.BMW or Roadfly? > Why not mention the wealth of info over on the myE28.com discussion > website? IMHO the mye28 group is heads above anything on the Roadfly > group,
I haven’t noticed that much difference between the two yet. Either one is a better resource for Old E28 Guys(TM) like us than here. I mean, which one of us cares *less* about somebody upgrading his E60 sound system or slapping a carbon fiber hood on his riced-out M3? Not that we can’t make fun of ‘em, but after awhile, it almost becomes a fulltime job, there’s so many of ‘em! > and the net nanny’s on roadfly are nothing more than censors with > an agenda…
Hadn’t noticed that, either. Maybe you can illuminate me. Of course, I bought my Jag from Alan … — C.R. Krieger (BT, DT)
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I just took off a cover strip and discovered that the cable (driver’s side) >is broken. I found a cable on the web for $80 but looks like it might be >tedious to install. Any suggestions or hints on the installation? Do you >have to take the sunroof complete out to do the job? > Each of you needs to go out and buy the excellent Bentley E28 service > manual. The sunroof mechanism is covered in there. Wouldn’t hurt to > ask questions over in the Roadfly E28 forum, either. I’ve just > recently checked in and, as with many of the posters there, I’m on the > verge of completely abandoning this one. > — > C.R. Krieger > (BT, DT)
C.R. Are you planning on abandoning alt.autos.BMW or Roadfly? Why not mention the wealth of info over on the myE28.com discussion website? IMHO the mye28 group is heads above anything on the Roadfly group, and the net nanny’s on roadfly are nothing more than censors with an agenda…
> I just took off a cover strip and discovered that the cable (driver’s side) > is broken. I found a cable on the web for $80 but looks like it might be > tedious to install. Any suggestions or hints on the installation? Do you > have to take the sunroof complete out to do the job?
Each of you needs to go out and buy the excellent Bentley E28 service manual. The sunroof mechanism is covered in there. Wouldn’t hurt to ask questions over in the Roadfly E28 forum, either. I’ve just recently checked in and, as with many of the posters there, I’m on the verge of completely abandoning this one. — C.R. Krieger (BT, DT)
You might try lubricating it before you try to repair it. They need that now and then. My sunroof has serious problems. It has gone out of synchronization and doesn’t stop where it should. I’d love to fix it but have no idea how to get at the mechanism. It’s in two parts, the stuff at the front where the switches and little access panel are, and the rear stuff where the motor is (I think). How do I get the headliner off without ruining it?
I just took off a cover strip and discovered that the cable (driver’s side) is broken. I found a cable on the web for $80 but looks like it might be tedious to install. Any suggestions or hints on the installation? Do you have to take the sunroof complete out to do the job? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The sunroof won’t close completely so I tried to manually assist with allen > key, but once I get it snug in the front (very hard to close but easy to > open if that implies anything), the rear portion of the sunroof on the > driver’s side does not come up flush with the roof of the car. Continuing > to crank raises the rear part on the passenger’s side but the driver’s side > remains below the roof. Any idea on what’s broken and how to repair? The > motor seems fine but I didn’t want to burn it up experimenting so thought it > best to hand crank it. thanks, Leonard
The sunroof won’t close completely so I tried to manually assist with allen key, but once I get it snug in the front (very hard to close but easy to open if that implies anything), the rear portion of the sunroof on the driver’s side does not come up flush with the roof of the car. Continuing to crank raises the rear part on the passenger’s side but the driver’s side remains below the roof. Any idea on what’s broken and how to repair? The motor seems fine but I didn’t want to burn it up experimenting so thought it best to hand crank it. thanks, Leonard
As Wolf said, the main relay me be the culprit. If the main relay fails the fuel pump will not turn on. You can find many references to this on the web. http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howto/electrical/main-relay/main-relay.htm tells you how to repair the relay instead of buying a new one. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > The car is fuel injected, and when it want start I do not hear the > fuel pump starting when I turn the key.
The car is fuel injected, and when it want start I do not hear the fuel pump starting when I turn the key.
I have an 88 prelude type-s auto. that would stop starting at certain times and start right back up after setting for an hour or a day,or die while driving. I replaced the fuel relay sensor but the problem has not gone away. A friend told me that it could be my crankshaft poistion sensor, but it doesnt not say in my Haynes mannual if I even have one. If anyone can help me and let me knwo what they think the problem could be that would be awsome. Thanks Eric
Is it fuel injected? If so the relay for the fuel pump may be intermittently not working and you are getting no fuel. wolf
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have an 88 prelude type-s auto. that would stop starting at certain > times and start right back up after setting for an hour or a day,or > die while driving. I replaced the fuel relay sensor but the problem > has not gone away. A friend told me that it could be my crankshaft > poistion sensor, but it doesnt not say in my Haynes mannual if I even > have one. If anyone can help me and let me knwo what they think the > problem could be that would be awsome. > Thanks > Eric
Thanks for the suggestion. My son has done that and his taillights now work as they should.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It’s the daytime running light module located on the side panel in front of > the passenger side door. You can try to solder the hairline crack on the > circuit board in the module or just disconnect the plug. Then you will have > manual operation of your headlights only. Or, just replace the module. > There used to be a web site that had instructions on how to repair this. I > can no longer find it. This message might prompt someone else to forward > the instructions. > | My son has a 1990 Integra RS and is having taillight problems. This has > | been going on intermittently for several years but is now permanent. > | > | If you get in the car and turn on the lights, he has taillights. Once you > | start the engine, no more taillights. He also has no running lights. > | > | Brake lights and signal lights work. > | > | > |
My son has a 1990 Integra RS and is having taillight problems. This has been going on intermittently for several years but is now permanent. If you get in the car and turn on the lights, he has taillights. Once you start the engine, no more taillights. He also has no running lights. Brake lights and signal lights work.
Did he install an aftermarket alarm system? It could be wired incorrectly. AJPDLA
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My son has a 1990 Integra RS and is having taillight problems. This has > been going on intermittently for several years but is now permanent. > If you get in the car and turn on the lights, he has taillights. Once you > start the engine, no more taillights. He also has no running lights. > Brake lights and signal lights work.
It’s the daytime running light module located on the side panel in front of the passenger side door. You can try to solder the hairline crack on the circuit board in the module or just disconnect the plug. Then you will have manual operation of your headlights only. Or, just replace the module. There used to be a web site that had instructions on how to repair this. I can no longer find it. This message might prompt someone else to forward the instructions.
| My son has a 1990 Integra RS and is having taillight problems. This has | been going on intermittently for several years but is now permanent. | | If you get in the car and turn on the lights, he has taillights. Once you | start the engine, no more taillights. He also has no running lights. | | Brake lights and signal lights work. | | |
The car has no alarm system. Good thought though. I have heard lots of horror stories from people with aftermarket alarms….
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Did he install an aftermarket alarm system? It could be wired incorrectly. > AJPDLA > My son has a 1990 Integra RS and is having taillight problems. This has > been going on intermittently for several years but is now permanent. > If you get in the car and turn on the lights, he has taillights. Once you > start the engine, no more taillights. He also has no running lights. > Brake lights and signal lights work.
ok, thanks, Jeff. I know once I get this done once, it will all be easy. But just want to be sure I’m clear on everything I’m gathering from the net before trying it for the first time. Unfortunately, all the people I know that know anything about how to do this aren’t around right now to show me. So this group will have to be my guide. Appreciate the response.
> Ok thought I was doing something wrong with the attachment, I have > never uploaded one before. > Anyway best bet is to cut your hole out square. Than back up the seam > on the back side with some 1×4. Screw 1×4 to old drywall leaving about > 2 1/2 inches exposed into the opening. Cut out your drywall and attach > to the wood. This will keep seams from separating after you mud them. > Thanks. Should I secure this 1×4 to the joists? Or is it just sufficient > to have it secured to the old drywall?
Here is an illustrated guide http://makeashorterlink.com/?G118210F3 By the way, I do not use any adhesive. It looks like overkill and a waste of money to me, and in my experience is completely unnecessary. Other opinions welcome on this step…..
> http://makeashorterlink.com/?G118210F3
Thanks. It’s nice to have the visual.
> Attached a graphic hope it helps.
Hi, John. Thanks for the response. This group doesn’t allow attachments to posts though, since it is not a binaries group. So I didn’t get your attachment. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->The old foot through the ceiling trick. Missed my step in the attic >where a board was taken up to mount a ceiling fan box (no fan >installed yet). >Just wondering what tricks I need to know. I’ve only done repairs on >walls before. These ceilings have the typical textured mud on them >with a sponge or whatever they use. This is an old house though >(newer ceiling) with beams 16" apart. The dimensions of the hole >after cutting around it initially to get clean edges are actually >about 10" wide spanning 16" from one beam to the middle beam, and then >from there angles out to the 20" width to where it meets the next beam >16" further. Now should I make as perfect a 32" x 20" square as I >can, or is it perhaps best to use some angles where I can to make it >less perceptible? >Or is it necessary to nail a 2×4 across from beam to beam where each >seam is and then nail the patch to the 2×4’s at 8" between beams >perhaps? As you can see, I have no idea. But I have faith someone on >here can help guide me to a nice repair. 
After all, I was able to >refinish my wood floors without knowing a thing prior to checking this >group. >Appreciate any help on this. >Also, if there’s any particular type of mud or tape I should use. So >far I’ve just repair wall holes with DAP brand Wallboard Joint >Compound and paper tape. I’m assuming this is what I would use on the >ceiling as well, but if not, I hope someone can fill me in. >Thanks
Ok thought I was doing something wrong with the attachment, I have never uploaded one before. Anyway best bet is to cut your hole out square. Than back up the seam on the back side with some 1×4. Screw 1×4 to old drywall leaving about 2 1/2 inches exposed into the opening. Cut out your drywall and attach to the wood. This will keep seams from separating after you mud them. After you have attached drywall, use the self stick fiberglass mesh tape on the seam’s and apply 1st coat of mud. Use a 12" drywall knife and fan it out real wide. The more you fan it out the less you will see the seam.. After it is dry sand apply last coat and your done. Watch out for the fast dry mud mix it will set up real quick but is a lot harder to sand out. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Attached a graphic hope it helps. >Hi, John. Thanks for the response. This group doesn’t allow attachments >to posts though, since it is not a binaries group. So I didn’t get your >attachment. >>The old foot through the ceiling trick. Missed my step in the attic >>where a board was taken up to mount a ceiling fan box (no fan >>installed yet). >>Just wondering what tricks I need to know. I’ve only done repairs on >>walls before. These ceilings have the typical textured mud on them >>with a sponge or whatever they use. This is an old house though >>(newer ceiling) with beams 16" apart. The dimensions of the hole >>after cutting around it initially to get clean edges are actually >>about 10" wide spanning 16" from one beam to the middle beam, and then >>from there angles out to the 20" width to where it meets the next beam >>16" further. Now should I make as perfect a 32" x 20" square as I >>can, or is it perhaps best to use some angles where I can to make it >>less perceptible? >>Or is it necessary to nail a 2×4 across from beam to beam where each >>seam is and then nail the patch to the 2×4’s at 8" between beams >>perhaps? As you can see, I have no idea. But I have faith someone on >>here can help guide me to a nice repair. After all, I was able to >>refinish my wood floors without knowing a thing prior to checking this >>group. >>Appreciate any help on this. >>Also, if there’s any particular type of mud or tape I should use. So >>far I’ve just repair wall holes with DAP brand Wallboard Joint >>Compound and paper tape. I’m assuming this is what I would use on the >>ceiling as well, but if not, I hope someone can fill me in. >>Thanks
> I wonder if you are both forgetting that this is a patch to a ceiling that > has that typical textured sponged on coating. I don’t think I’ll be doing > much in the way of fanning out, will I? Having no experience at a patching > a ceiling like this, I can see how I may be wrong. :)
I haven’t forgotten – I was just responding to what John said. But you’re right – since it will be textured, you don’t have to worry about getting it real smooth. Just get it reasonably flat. > But I’m assuming that I should perhaps sand down the sponge- > textured mud on the old ceiling around the seam a bit, so I can fill the > seam and then apply new "texture" via a sponge to the seam and patch > without it being thicker than the old ceiling. But since I’m using the > sponge or brush or whatever it is to apply that stucco look, I won’t be > fanning much will I?
Agreed.
> Ok thought I was doing something wrong with the attachment, I have > never uploaded one before. > Anyway best bet is to cut your hole out square. Than back up the seam > on the back side with some 1×4. Screw 1×4 to old drywall leaving about > 2 1/2 inches exposed into the opening. Cut out your drywall and attach > to the wood. This will keep seams from separating after you mud them. > Thanks. Should I secure this 1×4 to the joists? Or is it just sufficient > to have it secured to the old drywall?
Old drywall only. I use 1×3, not 1×4, by the way.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> After you have attached drywall, use the self stick fiberglass mesh > tape on the seam’s and apply 1st coat of mud. Use a 12" drywall knife > and fan it out real wide. > I would not recommend "fanning" the compound out "real wide" on the > first coat. The best way to get a virtually invisible seam is to > increase the width of the compound in successive coats. > The more you fan it out the less you will > see the seam.. After it is dry sand apply last coat and your done. > This implies 2 coats? I would use 3 (occasionally a 4th little touch > up "coat"). The first coat might be about 4" wide, the second about > 10" wide, and the final about 18" wide or so. Of course at that width > it’s feathered so the edges have virtually no joint compound – you’re > taking almost all of it up at the edges. > This does not necessarily apply to smaller patches though, since the > whole size of the patch might be smaller than 18". In that case, I > have used a 14" trowel or even a 24" aluminum level to make a flat > "trowel" across the whole patch, covering both seams at the same time > with the final coat.
I wonder if you are both forgetting that this is a patch to a ceiling that has that typical textured sponged on coating. I don’t think I’ll be doing much in the way of fanning out, will I? Having no experience at a patching a ceiling like this, I can see how I may be wrong. :) Which is why I’m asking. But I’m assuming that I should perhaps sand down the sponge- textured mud on the old ceiling around the seam a bit, so I can fill the seam and then apply new "texture" via a sponge to the seam and patch without it being thicker than the old ceiling. But since I’m using the sponge or brush or whatever it is to apply that stucco look, I won’t be fanning much will I? Thanks
> Ok thought I was doing something wrong with the attachment, I have > never uploaded one before. > Anyway best bet is to cut your hole out square. Than back up the seam > on the back side with some 1×4. Screw 1×4 to old drywall leaving about > 2 1/2 inches exposed into the opening. Cut out your drywall and attach > to the wood. This will keep seams from separating after you mud them.
Thanks. Should I secure this 1×4 to the joists? Or is it just sufficient to have it secured to the old drywall?
> After you have attached drywall, use the self stick fiberglass mesh > tape on the seam’s and apply 1st coat of mud. Use a 12" drywall knife > and fan it out real wide.
I would not recommend "fanning" the compound out "real wide" on the first coat. The best way to get a virtually invisible seam is to increase the width of the compound in successive coats. > The more you fan it out the less you will > see the seam.. After it is dry sand apply last coat and your done.
This implies 2 coats? I would use 3 (occasionally a 4th little touch up "coat"). The first coat might be about 4" wide, the second about 10" wide, and the final about 18" wide or so. Of course at that width it’s feathered so the edges have virtually no joint compound – you’re taking almost all of it up at the edges. This does not necessarily apply to smaller patches though, since the whole size of the patch might be smaller than 18". In that case, I have used a 14" trowel or even a 24" aluminum level to make a flat "trowel" across the whole patch, covering both seams at the same time with the final coat. The results for this approach have been called "perfect" and "spectacular". That last comment seems silly to me, but the best comment you can get is "I don’t see anything – what am I looking for?" when showing someone the ceiling after the patch. > Watch out for the fast dry mud mix it will set up real quick but is a > lot harder to sand out.
I think you mean "fast set" mud, not fast dry. Also, fast set compound is no harder to sand than slower setting compound. Generally, setting compound is harder to sand than drying compound, but Easy Sand or Lite setting compound is not difficult to sand.
The old foot through the ceiling trick. Missed my step in the attic where a board was taken up to mount a ceiling fan box (no fan installed yet). Just wondering what tricks I need to know. I’ve only done repairs on walls before. These ceilings have the typical textured mud on them with a sponge or whatever they use. This is an old house though (newer ceiling) with beams 16" apart. The dimensions of the hole after cutting around it initially to get clean edges are actually about 10" wide spanning 16" from one beam to the middle beam, and then from there angles out to the 20" width to where it meets the next beam 16" further. Now should I make as perfect a 32" x 20" square as I can, or is it perhaps best to use some angles where I can to make it less perceptible? Or is it necessary to nail a 2×4 across from beam to beam where each seam is and then nail the patch to the 2×4’s at 8" between beams perhaps? As you can see, I have no idea. But I have faith someone on here can help guide me to a nice repair. After all, I was able to refinish my wood floors without knowing a thing prior to checking this group. Appreciate any help on this. Also, if there’s any particular type of mud or tape I should use. So far I’ve just repair wall holes with DAP brand Wallboard Joint Compound and paper tape. I’m assuming this is what I would use on the ceiling as well, but if not, I hope someone can fill me in. Thanks
Attached a graphic hope it helps. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >The old foot through the ceiling trick. Missed my step in the attic where >a board was taken up to mount a ceiling fan box (no fan installed yet). >Just wondering what tricks I need to know. I’ve only done repairs on walls >before. These ceilings have the typical textured mud on them with a sponge >or whatever they use. This is an old house though (newer ceiling) with >beams 16" apart. The dimensions of the hole after cutting around it >initially to get clean edges are actually about 10" wide spanning 16" from >one beam to the middle beam, and then from there angles out to the 20" >width to where it meets the next beam 16" further. Now should I make as >perfect a 32" x 20" square as I can, or is it perhaps best to use some >angles where I can to make it less perceptible? >Or is it necessary to nail a 2×4 across from beam to beam where each seam >is and then nail the patch to the 2×4’s at 8" between beams perhaps? As >you can see, I have no idea. But I have faith someone on here can help >guide me to a nice repair. After all, I was able to refinish my wood >floors without knowing a thing prior to checking this group. >Appreciate any help on this. >Also, if there’s any particular type of mud or tape I should use. So far >I’ve just repair wall holes with DAP brand Wallboard Joint Compound and >paper tape. I’m assuming this is what I would use on the ceiling as well, >but if not, I hope someone can fill me in. >Thanks
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The old foot through the ceiling trick. Missed my step in the attic > where a board was taken up to mount a ceiling fan box (no fan > installed yet). > Just wondering what tricks I need to know. I’ve only done repairs on > walls > before. These ceilings have the typical textured mud on them with a > sponge or whatever they use. This is an old house though (newer > ceiling) with beams 16" apart. The dimensions of the hole after > cutting around it initially to get clean edges are actually about 10" > wide spanning 16" from one beam to the middle beam, and then from > there angles out to the 20" width to where it meets the next beam 16" > further. Now should I make as perfect a 32" x 20" square as I can, > or is it perhaps best to use some angles where I can to make it less > perceptible? > What’s going to make it imperceptible is not the size or shape of the > hole, but the finishing job you do. But you said it’s textured, so > your finishing job probably doesn’t matter – only your ability to > match the texture after the drywall is repaired. > You would fix it the same way you’d fix a wall. i.e. use furring > strips and/or cut back to the middle of a stud. The important thing > is that the new and old drywall be attached to the same piece of wood > right next to each other. I assume you know how to repair with > furring strips since you’ve repaired walls, but if not let me know.
Thanks. I’ve never heard of the term furring strips. Is it the same as drywall tape? If not, then, no, I don’t know how to repair with them. I will be cutting back to the middle of the stud though.
> The old foot through the ceiling trick. Missed my step in the attic where > a board was taken up to mount a ceiling fan box (no fan installed yet). > Just wondering what tricks I need to know. I’ve only done repairs on walls > before. These ceilings have the typical textured mud on them with a sponge > or whatever they use. This is an old house though (newer ceiling) with > beams 16" apart. The dimensions of the hole after cutting around it > initially to get clean edges are actually about 10" wide spanning 16" from > one beam to the middle beam, and then from there angles out to the 20" > width to where it meets the next beam 16" further. Now should I make as > perfect a 32" x 20" square as I can, or is it perhaps best to use some > angles where I can to make it less perceptible?
What’s going to make it imperceptible is not the size or shape of the hole, but the finishing job you do. But you said it’s textured, so your finishing job probably doesn’t matter – only your ability to match the texture after the drywall is repaired. You would fix it the same way you’d fix a wall. i.e. use furring strips and/or cut back to the middle of a stud. The important thing is that the new and old drywall be attached to the same piece of wood right next to each other. I assume you know how to repair with furring strips since you’ve repaired walls, but if not let me know. By the way, a trick for getting a perfect match with the replacement piece is *not* to measure carefully. Rather, go ahead and cut your replacement piece, larger than the hole. Then hold it up there and trace around it with a pencil. Cut that hole out. Your piece will automatically be a perfect fit. > Also, if there’s any particular type of mud or tape I should use. So far > I’ve just repair wall holes with DAP brand Wallboard Joint Compound and > paper tape. I’m assuming this is what I would use on the ceiling as well, > but if not, I hope someone can fill me in.
Same thing. You can get a little lower profile with mesh tape if that’s what you’re after, but if you’re going to be texturing your ceiling anyway it won’t matter.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> Well, nicely rationalised Rick and at the end of the day if its a >> Porsche thats best for you then fine. Thing is, and I think I speak for >> most of us here, Ferrari’s are more than just a flashy bit of >> transport. Speaking personally, I’ve been a fan of the Ferrari F1 team >> since I was five years old and saw Gilles Villeneuve driving his >> Ferrari like no one before or after him. I grew up on the legends that >> surrounded the team and its personalities. I loved the wins and endured >> the losses, the drivers were like gods to me no matter who they were. >> And so for me, when I do own a Ferrari it will be like finally having >> my own bit of all that legend, passion and emotion that is wrapped up >> in a Ferrari. >> Porsche don’t have anything like that. > Huh?! I like Ferraris as much as anybody, but this > just isn’t true… Porsche has an extensive racing > history, and quite successful too. > Yes, they are probably great cars and >> more reliable than Ferrari’s but they just don’t have the magic or >> embodiment of racing in them. > Again, I love Ferraris, but I think you need to check > out "Excellence was Expected" and the like before > dismissing Porsches as merely sporty German cars. > Porsche has had a racing history easily comparable > with Ferrari. > That’s right, I said it… > I’d say it again too. > -Matt- "o_O" > I won’t deny that Porsche has a great racing history too but it just isn’t > one that’s comparable to Ferrari’s. No one has captured the imagination, > inspired people or attracted as much global attention as Ferrari’s has. > Even looking at it from a purely statistical point of view, Ferrari has > achieved far more in motor sports than Porsche has. > Sharky (feeling emotional)
Pure Bullshit! — J. Dennis Russell, Sr. 1987 944 n/a RLM# 020131-3340 To reply via e-mail, replace $$ with ss and replace notmail.com with hotmail.com.
> I’m not a doctor or whatever your on about in the previous post, but a 22 > year old who has just finished university this summer and bought himself a > Porsche 944 S2, because I too would like a sports car that can be driven > daily.
On the face of it, you sometimes make some salient points – but you’re definitely on a wind-up… I’ve no particular axe to grind against Porsche as a marque, but I can assure you that the 944, whilst capable enough, really doesn’t do the badge justice. It’s an improvement on the (thoroughly shitty) 924, but that’s about it. The 911/930, etc is a terrific car, but that’s it: it’s only a car. There is something undefinable about a Ferrari which raises it above the level of everyday or even occasional transport. > And try not to swear so much, it’s not big and it’s not clever.
Oh I don’t know – he’s quite accomplished Joe BTW: I’ve driven and owned both Porsches and Ferraris – even owned a 944. Briefly.
>Yes. You are right that supercar owners won’t ask how to repair their car on >newsgroups. However, the idea is that this group would be for people who >would like to compare supercars, are thinking to buy one, or just dreaming >of them. There are several supercar forums on the net, so there are lots of >interested people around, but I like to gather as many as possible under a >single group. Also, I certainly prefer usability of newsgroup over forum.
As do I, however this is not an "If you build it, they will come" situation. How do you intend to direct discussion to the news group? The RROC mailing list and public web boards are much busier than the news group because that’s what people prefer. The amount of activity on the Pelican Parts and Rennlist web boards dwarfs what we see on the 911 newsgroup (there are literally hundreds of posts to each every day). If there are already populated forums for this topic, you’d be battling inertia in getting people to change; there would have to be some benefit or incentive and "it’s the forum *I* prefer" won’t cut it. In my personal experience, you have to go back to first principles. Usenet was created as an open forum for exchanging knowledge. A successful newsgroup or mailing list has to have a core group of frequent posters that seriously know the subject, be it "Friends" trivia or Holley carbs. Once people discover that they can find help and answers by talking to others on the group, they sign up and stick around. Without that base membership, any group you create will become a spam-catcher and little else. One of the reasons most of the alt.autos hierarchy is filled with useless dick-swinging is that too small a percentage of the posters know and love cars, so you get 50 "Corvettes SUCK!" and "Porsche owners are dicks!" threads for every one with actual knowledge content. Writing this, I realize that I’m re-writing almost verbatim what I said about the RR/B group, and it was created anyway. You’re welcome to do the same. What’s one more dead group among the multitudes, I guess. Emanuel — Portable Computing FAQ – http://home.att.net/~epbrown01 Sony VAIO 505 info – http://home.att.net/~epbrown01/sony505.html Join the 505 Mailing List – http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sony505/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Porsche V Ferrari eh? > Well I know what my answer would be. > I’ve been an avid Ferrari fan for years, drove a few 308’s with the > hideously heavy clutch but still loved them anyway! I’ve always dug in > my heels when arguing with my half German friend who sings Porsche > from the hills endlessly ! > The only time I’ve found myself eating those words is recently. > I’m spending around
Very nice coffee table. Not very nice scratch. Look like a thin blade of an exacto knife scratched it. Any ideas how to repair?
Open a Walnut and use the nut to stain the scratch. Te oil in the nut will stain the scratch.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Very nice coffee table. Not very nice scratch. Look like a thin blade of > an exacto knife scratched it. Any ideas how to repair?
> Very nice coffee table. Not very nice scratch. Look like a thin blade of > an exacto knife scratched it. Any ideas how to repair?
These are better hidden than repaired. If there are ridges along the scratch, carefully run a narrow *plastic* putty knife over the ridge to smooth it (a metal blade would create more scratches).You can buy a waxy touch-up stick (similar to a crayon) and/or touch-up liquid, (that comes in a small bottle with a brush, as fingernail polish) of matching color. If the wood is dark, Old English Oil is very good at hiding scratches. After the blemish is hidden, coat/buff table top with a good paste wax a couple times a year.
Liquid Gold is also good at hiding scratches, but they do sell a set of 3 "markers" in colors to match different type woods – a light, medium and dark wood.. Just go over the scratch with one that is comparible with your wood and it will look fine.
My little dog chewed a 4" x 4" hole in my carpet. I have extra carpet but am not sure how to repair it. Please, someone, help!
> My little dog chewed a 4" x 4" hole in my carpet. I have extra carpet but > am not sure how to repair it. Please, someone, help!
If it’s in a traffic area, your best bet is to have it patched by a pro. He will use a hot iron for the seam tape. If it’s out of the way and you want to try it yourself…. DIY repair tape is available. It’s used cold so you don’t need any special tools but also won’t hold as well as the pro’s hot tape. Look at the way the pile lays on your floor, brush it toward each of the 4 walls and see which way it most naturally wants to lay. That’s the grain of your carpet. Now try to find that same grain on your scrap carpet so that the patch will lay the same as the rest of the floor. Cut out a rectangle from the floor carpet, then cut a matching size piece from the scrap. Follow the directions on the seam tape on how to slip it in under the cut edges of the floor carpet. Then place the patch in and press it down well. Now, go out and buy that puppy some chew toys. 
>Ahole Detectorrr wrote >Carpet patches are something every >carpet munching lesbo ahole knows of. >I’m the "A Hole" detector and >you send my readings off the scale!
I didn’t realize we thought so much alike. Way to go aholedetector!
Hopefully it is just standard carpeting and not burber. You can patch burber but it is a little harder because you have to match the pattern. Let’s assume that you have standard pile carpet. Begin by cutting out the bad section. Cut out only enough to remove the damaged section leaving either a square or rectangel. Now cut a piece of cardboard out the same size as new hole. Use this as a pattern to cut the new piece with. I suppose you could use a double back tape but carpet layers use a special tape that is heated up with a special tool similar to an iron. The tape has a substance on it simlar to what comes out of a hot glue gun. You put the tape under the seams, heat it with the iron and press the new piece into place. Brush it out and you shouldn’t be able to tell where the patch is. You can get the patching tool at a rental agency.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My little dog chewed a 4" x 4" hole in my carpet. I have extra carpet but > am not sure how to repair it. Please, someone, help!
> Thank you very much. I’ll give it a try! > Mandy
Carpet patches are something every carpet munching lesbo ahole knows of. I’m the "A Hole" detector and you send my readings off the scale!
Thank you very much. I’ll give it a try! Mandy
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My little dog chewed a 4" x 4" hole in my carpet. I have extra carpet but > am not sure how to repair it. Please, someone, help! > If it’s in a traffic area, your best bet is to have it patched by a pro. He > will use a hot iron for the seam tape. > If it’s out of the way and you want to try it yourself…. DIY repair tape > is available. It’s used cold so you don’t need any special tools but also > won’t hold as well as the pro’s hot tape. > Look at the way the pile lays on your floor, brush it toward each of the 4 > walls and see which way it most naturally wants to lay. That’s the grain of > your carpet. Now try to find that same grain on your scrap carpet so that > the patch will lay the same as the rest of the floor. > Cut out a rectangle from the floor carpet, then cut a matching size piece > from the scrap. Follow the directions on the seam tape on how to slip it in > under the cut edges of the floor carpet. Then place the patch in and press > it down well. > Now, go out and buy that puppy some chew toys.