> The feed fuel line on my 1990 Accord LX leaks near the rear connection > (the > connection itself does not leak). That fuel line is protected by a thick > plastic cover or slieve, and I can see the gas leaking from the end of > that covering. I know that I can replace the entire fuel line, but this > seems to be a very difficult task. Is there a simpler solution that might > involve cutting the existing line and attaching a new section with a > length > of fuel hose and clamps? Thanks for your help.
Yep…that’s it in a nutshell. Did mine earlier this year. Steve 91 EX-R
The feed fuel line on my 1990 Accord LX leaks near the rear connection (the connection itself does not leak). That fuel line is protected by a thick plastic cover or slieve, and I can see the gas leaking from the end of that covering. I know that I can replace the entire fuel line, but this seems to be a very difficult task. Is there a simpler solution that might involve cutting the existing line and attaching a new section with a length of fuel hose and clamps? Thanks for your help.
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE, 3.3L Flex Fuel engine. Friend’s van, and I’m a stick guy, so I don’t know if P-R-N-D-3-L makes it a 3-spd or a 4-spd autobox. (Don’t know if the reverse gear is counted in auto trannies.) She lost the owner’s manual, and fuckin’ Mopar won’t let you download one for free, unlike Ford. So I’ve been looking online to find out what tranny fluid to use. Seems you _can_ use ATF+4 in this model year. What I’m not sure is, do you _have_ to? Cause if not, I’d rather buy ATF+3 for her fluid change, rather than pay a premium for DC’s stupid monopoly on ATF+4. The local dealer sez use ATF+4, but I never trust dealers, and particularly not when they recommend something only they can sell me. I can’t find a clear explanation anywhere of when Chrysler went to requiring ATF+4, and when ATF+3 was still OK to use. Tx.
Well if you Google this newsgroup, you will find a HUGE debate about various fluid types and additives. However, if I recall correctly, the ATF+3 is for use in chysler transmissoins built prior to 1996??? (or is that 1998??) But anything after that (incl. 2000 model year) the specified fluid is ATF+4. hth – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE, 3.3L Flex Fuel engine. >Friend’s van, and I’m a stick guy, so I don’t know if P-R-N-D-3-L makes it a >3-spd or a 4-spd autobox. (Don’t know if the reverse gear is counted in >auto trannies.) >She lost the owner’s manual, and fuckin’ Mopar won’t let you download one >for free, unlike Ford. So I’ve been looking online to find out what tranny >fluid to use. >Seems you _can_ use ATF+4 in this model year. What I’m not sure is, do you >_have_ to? Cause if not, I’d rather buy ATF+3 for her fluid change, rather >than pay a premium for DC’s stupid monopoly on ATF+4. The local dealer sez >use ATF+4, but I never trust dealers, and particularly not when they >recommend something only they can sell me. >I can’t find a clear explanation anywhere of when Chrysler went to requiring >ATF+4, and when ATF+3 was still OK to use. >Tx.
> Well if you Google this newsgroup, you will find a HUGE debate about > various fluid types and additives. > However, if I recall correctly, the ATF+3 is for use in chysler > transmissoins built prior to 1996??? (or is that 1998??) > But anything after that (incl. 2000 model year) the specified fluid is > ATF+4.
Per TSB 21-16-99, the transition to ATF+4 (Chrsyler Spec 9602) at the factory took place at the following dates and serial numbers for each body type: **GS** **AFTER NOVEMBER 8, 1999 (MDH1108XX)** JA AFTER SEPTEMBER 7, 1998 (MDH0907XX) **JX** **AFTER MAY 21, 1999 (MDH0521XX)** LH AFTER JULY 20, 1998 (MDH0720XX) **NS** **AFTER OCTOBER 10, 1999 (MDH1010XX) WINDSOR ASSY PLANT** **AFTER OCTOBER 18, 1999 (MDH1018XX) ST LOUIS ASSY PLANT** 11TH POSITION OF VIN – R = WINDSOR/B = ST LOUIS **PL** **AFTER APRIL 24, 1999 (MDH0424XX)** PR AFTER JULY 20, 1998 (MDH0720XX) Another TSB specifies which earlier vehicles can/should be switched to ATF+4. IIRC, it was all Chrysler vehicles except certain minivans, although that exception may no longer be in effect.
> Seems you _can_ use ATF+4 in this model year. What I’m not sure is, do you > _have_ to? Cause if not, I’d rather buy ATF+3 for her fluid change, rather > than pay a premium for DC’s stupid monopoly on ATF+4. The local dealer sez > use ATF+4, but I never trust dealers, and particularly not when they > recommend something only they can sell me. > I can’t find a clear explanation anywhere of when Chrysler went to requiring > ATF+4, and when ATF+3 was still OK to use.
This will tell you what you need to know. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001/21-006-01.htm Jerry
> Friend’s van, and I’m a stick guy, so I don’t know if P-R-N-D-3-L makes it a > 3-spd or a 4-spd autobox.
4-speed. > Seems you _can_ use ATF+4 in this model year. What I’m not sure is, do you > _have_ to?
Others have posted the links to the authoritative info. > I’d rather buy ATF+3 for her fluid change, rather > than pay a premium for DC’s stupid monopoly on ATF+4.
But *SHE* would rather you use the correct fluid and saver her a ton of grief and money down the line. DS
If you don’t trust what the authority on the product sells than by all means put dexron/mercon in it or better yet type f. That will make the clutches grab real good. 
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE, 3.3L Flex Fuel engine. > Friend’s van, and I’m a stick guy, so I don’t know if P-R-N-D-3-L makes it a > 3-spd or a 4-spd autobox. (Don’t know if the reverse gear is counted in > auto trannies.) > She lost the owner’s manual, and fuckin’ Mopar won’t let you download one > for free, unlike Ford. So I’ve been looking online to find out what tranny > fluid to use. > Seems you _can_ use ATF+4 in this model year. What I’m not sure is, do you > _have_ to? Cause if not, I’d rather buy ATF+3 for her fluid change, rather > than pay a premium for DC’s stupid monopoly on ATF+4. The local dealer sez > use ATF+4, but I never trust dealers, and particularly not when they > recommend something only they can sell me. > I can’t find a clear explanation anywhere of when Chrysler went to requiring > ATF+4, and when ATF+3 was still OK to use. > Tx.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Friend’s van, and I’m a stick guy, so I don’t know if P-R-N-D-3-L makes it a > 3-spd or a 4-spd autobox. > 4-speed. > Seems you _can_ use ATF+4 in this model year. What I’m not sure is, do you > _have_ to? > Others have posted the links to the authoritative info. > I’d rather buy ATF+3 for her fluid change, rather > than pay a premium for DC’s stupid monopoly on ATF+4. > But *SHE* would rather you use the correct fluid and saver her a ton of > grief and money down the line. > DS
ATF+4 unless you want to lose a friend (and a transmission) in the near future.
> ATF+4 unless you want to lose a friend (and a transmission) in the near future.
If the vehicle came with ATF+3 and has never been changed over to ATF+4 then there is no reason not to use ATF+3 in the transmission. Once you change over there is no going back. My truck (1999) was sold with ATF+3 in it and that is all I use. The thing Mike has to be sure about is what is in the transmission right now. Jerry
> If you don’t trust what the authority on the product sells than by all > means put dexron/mercon in it or better yet type f. That will make the > clutches grab real good.
Um, the "authority on the product" has a monopoly on it and therefore has a vested interest in selling it. If you believe a given dealership is the real authority on how to repair a vehicle and which parts to use, the dealer may love you, but you’re being naive. Many have come to expensive grief this way. And thanks, I’ve done enough homework to know not to put anything but ATF+X in these crappy Chrysler trannys. Mike
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Seems you _can_ use ATF+4 in this model year. What I’m not sure is, do you > _have_ to? Cause if not, I’d rather buy ATF+3 for her fluid change, rather > than pay a premium for DC’s stupid monopoly on ATF+4. The local dealer sez > use ATF+4, but I never trust dealers, and particularly not when they > recommend something only they can sell me. > I can’t find a clear explanation anywhere of when Chrysler went to requiring > ATF+4, and when ATF+3 was still OK to use. > This will tell you what you need to know. > http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001/21-006-01.htm
Thanks. As I don’t know whether this thing came with ATF+4 from the factory, it looks like I’d better go with it now. Mike
> ATF+4 unless you want to lose a friend (and a transmission) in the near future. > If the vehicle came with ATF+3 and has never been changed over to ATF+4 > then there is no reason not to use ATF+3 in the transmission. Once you > change over there is no going back. My truck (1999) was sold with ATF+3 > in it and that is all I use. The thing Mike has to be sure about is > what is in the transmission right now.
Yep. I remember there was an insert card in the owner’s manual telling her to ignore whatever tranny fluid the manual specified and to instead use … well there’s the damn thing, I can’t remember what the card said, and she lost it and the manual. I vaguely remember it saying to not use ATF+X and instead use ATF+Y, but which way it went, who knows. Gonna stick with ATF+4 to be safe! Mike
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If you don’t trust what the authority on the product sells than by all > means put dexron/mercon in it or better yet type f. That will make the > clutches grab real good. > Um, the "authority on the product" has a monopoly on it and therefore has a > vested interest in selling it. > If you believe a given dealership is the real authority on how to repair a > vehicle and which parts to use, the dealer may love you, but you’re being > naive. Many have come to expensive grief this way. > And thanks, I’ve done enough homework to know not to put anything but ATF+X > in these crappy Chrysler trannys. > Mike
They become "crappy" if/when you DON’T use the correct fluid.
> If you don’t trust what the authority on the product sells than by all > means put dexron/mercon in it or better yet type f. That will make the > clutches grab real good. > Um, the "authority on the product" has a monopoly on it and therefore has a > vested interest in selling it.
They do, they hold the patent on the additive package and have only licensed it to one manufacturer. Supposedly there is no requirement that this fluid producer only sell their output to Damlier Chrysler but somehow most of the worlds production of ATF +4 ends up at DC. There are a few leaks, however. I forget who but there’s a Canadian producer that sells ATF +4, and as that producer is also whom makes it for DC, it’s probably the real thing. There’s been repeated requests by the fluid manufacturers to DC to license the patent to them for production. These so far have been ignored. What all this means is that the second the patent runs out, sometime in the next decade, all the fluid producers will immediately start selling ATF +4 and to hell with what DC wants. There has always been a kind of gentlemen’s agreement with the fluid manufacturers and the automakers on these issues. When the automakers need a new type of fluid they cooperate with the R&D department of a specified fluid manufacturer and get one custom designed. The deal works out to the maker puts up the money to make the fluid, then gets to hold the patent until it expires. The fluid maker gets to license the rights to make it very cheaply then sell it back to the maker, and to everyone else. Then the fluid makers sell it on the open market and everyone makes a lot of money. This is how ATF +3 worked out. With ATF +4 Chrysler got greedy and decided to use ATF+4 as a leverage to get people to come into dealership service departments, and to make money off fluid sales. Of course, an automaker is not setup to distribute fluids and can only do so very inefficiently, which is why they sell the stuff for the $5 a bottle or whatever rediculous price it is now. > And thanks, I’ve done enough homework to know not to put anything but ATF+X > in these crappy Chrysler trannys.
The ONLY saving grace on ATF+4 is that unlike ATF +3 it IS a synthetic fluid. Thus it in theory can last the life of the car, (not my words, I’ll refer you to the synthetic oil crowd for rediculous claims) and never needs changing. (yeah right) Ted
question….. did you buy the qrts from the same guy you bought the gallons from ?
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > If you don’t trust what the authority on the product sells than by > all > > > means put dexron/mercon in it or better yet type f. That will make the > > > clutches grab real good. > > Um, the "authority on the product" has a monopoly on it and therefore > has > a > > vested interest in selling it. > a lot of money. This is how ATF +3 worked out. With ATF +4 Chrysler got > greedy > and decided to use ATF+4 as a leverage to get people to come into > dealership > service departments, and to make money off fluid sales. Of course, an > automaker > is not setup to distribute fluids and can only do so very inefficiently, > which is why > they sell the stuff for the $5 a bottle or whatever rediculous price it is > now. > On Tuesday I called around and discovered that both our area Chrysler > dealerships (unrelated ownership) were selling ATF+4 for the same price: > $7.20/qt. Youch! Still, I felt I had no choice but to get it, to be sure I > was doing the best thing for my friend’s van. (Me to parts guy at > dealership: "So when’s Chrysler gonna let somebody else sell this stuff?" > Parts guy: "Hopefully never.") So I picked up two gallons and did the > flush. > correct fluid level. So two days later (yesterday) I went back to the same > dealer for the final two quarts, and guess what – the price had dropped to > $5.10/qt. > Doh!!! > Mike
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>Yep, I just priced ATF +4 at my local DC dealer in NJ. a couple days ago and it >>was $5 a qt. even. >> Lou > I must live in a progressive part of the country, because here it’s been > something like $5.20 a qt., and below $5 per gallon for a couple of > years. I’ll have to check and see if it’s dropped below that here as a > "global" drop, or if you guys are just seeing your local dealers come > more into line with more reasonable dealers. > Still between $24 and $28 a gallon 40 miles west of Chicago. > Bill, who are you getting it from? Curious minds and those of us who > want to keep our cars running well want to know!!
Oops! I meant below $20/gallon, which works out to below $5/qt, which of course is what I was thinking. This was at several dealers in the mid-Atlantic region (i.e., Virginia), and I believe also a dealer in Texas. Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
Still between $24 and $28 a gallon 40 miles west of Chicago. Bill, who are you getting it from? Curious minds and those of us who want to keep our cars running well want to know!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Yep, I just priced ATF +4 at my local DC dealer in NJ. a couple days ago and it >was $5 a qt. even. > Lou > I must live in a progressive part of the country, because here it’s been > something like $5.20 a qt., and below $5 per gallon for a couple of > years. I’ll have to check and see if it’s dropped below that here as a > "global" drop, or if you guys are just seeing your local dealers come > more into line with more reasonable dealers. > Bill Putney > (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with "x") > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
>was curious. at times i can go to the parts house and they can give me >different quotes depending on whos reading the book. >any way its good to know its coming down some in price now.
Yep, I just priced ATF +4 at my local DC dealer in NJ. a couple days ago and it was $5 a qt. even. Lou
> Yep, I just priced ATF +4 at my local DC dealer in NJ. a couple days ago and it > was $5 a qt. even. > Lou
I must live in a progressive part of the country, because here it’s been something like $5.20 a qt., and below $5 per gallon for a couple of years. I’ll have to check and see if it’s dropped below that here as a "global" drop, or if you guys are just seeing your local dealers come more into line with more reasonable dealers. Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
was curious. at times i can go to the parts house and they can give me different quotes depending on whos reading the book. any way its good to know its coming down some in price now.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> question….. > did you buy the qrts from the same guy you bought the gallons from ? > yep. he said "all our stuff just went down," meaning not just the atf+4. > The per gallon cost at the time I bought the gallon containers saved very > little over the $7.20/qt cost, I think the gallon was like $27 versus $28.80 > if I’d bought it per quart. > > On Tuesday I called around and discovered that both our area Chrysler > > dealerships (unrelated ownership) were selling ATF+4 for the same price: > > $7.20/qt. Youch! Still, I felt I had no choice but to get it, to be > sure > I > > was doing the best thing for my friend’s van. (Me to parts guy at > > dealership: "So when’s Chrysler gonna let somebody else sell this > stuff?" > > Parts guy: "Hopefully never.") So I picked up two gallons and did the > > flush. > achieve > > correct fluid level. So two days later (yesterday) I went back to the > same > > dealer for the final two quarts, and guess what – the price had dropped > to > > $5.10/qt. > > Doh!!! > > Mike
> question….. > did you buy the qrts from the same guy you bought the gallons from ?
yep. he said "all our stuff just went down," meaning not just the atf+4. The per gallon cost at the time I bought the gallon containers saved very little over the $7.20/qt cost, I think the gallon was like $27 versus $28.80 if I’d bought it per quart. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> On Tuesday I called around and discovered that both our area Chrysler > dealerships (unrelated ownership) were selling ATF+4 for the same price: > $7.20/qt. Youch! Still, I felt I had no choice but to get it, to be sure > I > was doing the best thing for my friend’s van. (Me to parts guy at > dealership: "So when’s Chrysler gonna let somebody else sell this stuff?" > Parts guy: "Hopefully never.") So I picked up two gallons and did the > flush. achieve > correct fluid level. So two days later (yesterday) I went back to the > same > dealer for the final two quarts, and guess what – the price had dropped to > $5.10/qt. > Doh!!! > Mike
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > If you don’t trust what the authority on the product sells than by > all > > > means put dexron/mercon in it or better yet type f. That will make the > > > clutches grab real good. > > Um, the "authority on the product" has a monopoly on it and therefore > has > a > > vested interest in selling it. > a lot of money. This is how ATF +3 worked out. With ATF +4 Chrysler got > greedy > and decided to use ATF+4 as a leverage to get people to come into > dealership > service departments, and to make money off fluid sales. Of course, an > automaker > is not setup to distribute fluids and can only do so very inefficiently, > which is why > they sell the stuff for the $5 a bottle or whatever rediculous price it is > now. > On Tuesday I called around and discovered that both our area Chrysler > dealerships (unrelated ownership) were selling ATF+4 for the same price: > $7.20/qt. Youch! Still, I felt I had no choice but to get it, to be sure I > was doing the best thing for my friend’s van. (Me to parts guy at > dealership: "So when’s Chrysler gonna let somebody else sell this stuff?" > Parts guy: "Hopefully never.") So I picked up two gallons and did the > flush. > correct fluid level. So two days later (yesterday) I went back to the same > dealer for the final two quarts, and guess what – the price had dropped to > $5.10/qt.
buy the gallon containers much cheaper per quart
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > If you don’t trust what the authority on the product sells than by all > > means put dexron/mercon in it or better yet type f. That will make the > > clutches grab real good. > Um, the "authority on the product" has a monopoly on it and therefore has > a > vested interest in selling it. > a lot of money. This is how ATF +3 worked out. With ATF +4 Chrysler got > greedy > and decided to use ATF+4 as a leverage to get people to come into dealership > service departments, and to make money off fluid sales. Of course, an > automaker > is not setup to distribute fluids and can only do so very inefficiently, > which is why > they sell the stuff for the $5 a bottle or whatever rediculous price it is > now.
On Tuesday I called around and discovered that both our area Chrysler dealerships (unrelated ownership) were selling ATF+4 for the same price: $7.20/qt. Youch! Still, I felt I had no choice but to get it, to be sure I was doing the best thing for my friend’s van. (Me to parts guy at dealership: "So when’s Chrysler gonna let somebody else sell this stuff?" Parts guy: "Hopefully never.") So I picked up two gallons and did the flush. correct fluid level. So two days later (yesterday) I went back to the same dealer for the final two quarts, and guess what – the price had dropped to $5.10/qt. Doh!!! Mike
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE, 3.3L Flex Fuel engine. Friend’s van, and I’m a stick guy, so I don’t know if P-R-N-D-3-L makes it a 3-spd or a 4-spd autobox. (Don’t know if the reverse gear is counted in auto trannies.) She lost the owner’s manual, and fuckin’ Mopar won’t let you download one for free, unlike Ford. So I’ve been looking online to find out what tranny fluid to use. Seems you _can_ use ATF+4 in this model year. What I’m not sure is, do you _have_ to? Cause if not, I’d rather buy ATF+3 for her fluid change, rather than pay a premium for DC’s stupid monopoly on ATF+4. The local dealer sez use ATF+4, but I never trust dealers, and particularly not when they recommend something only they can sell me. I can’t find a clear explanation anywhere of when Chrysler went to requiring ATF+4, and when ATF+3 was still OK to use. Tx.
Well if you Google this newsgroup, you will find a HUGE debate about various fluid types and additives. However, if I recall correctly, the ATF+3 is for use in chysler transmissoins built prior to 1996??? (or is that 1998??) But anything after that (incl. 2000 model year) the specified fluid is ATF+4. hth – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE, 3.3L Flex Fuel engine. >Friend’s van, and I’m a stick guy, so I don’t know if P-R-N-D-3-L makes it a >3-spd or a 4-spd autobox. (Don’t know if the reverse gear is counted in >auto trannies.) >She lost the owner’s manual, and fuckin’ Mopar won’t let you download one >for free, unlike Ford. So I’ve been looking online to find out what tranny >fluid to use. >Seems you _can_ use ATF+4 in this model year. What I’m not sure is, do you >_have_ to? Cause if not, I’d rather buy ATF+3 for her fluid change, rather >than pay a premium for DC’s stupid monopoly on ATF+4. The local dealer sez >use ATF+4, but I never trust dealers, and particularly not when they >recommend something only they can sell me. >I can’t find a clear explanation anywhere of when Chrysler went to requiring >ATF+4, and when ATF+3 was still OK to use. >Tx.
> Well if you Google this newsgroup, you will find a HUGE debate about > various fluid types and additives. > However, if I recall correctly, the ATF+3 is for use in chysler > transmissoins built prior to 1996??? (or is that 1998??) > But anything after that (incl. 2000 model year) the specified fluid is > ATF+4.
Per TSB 21-16-99, the transition to ATF+4 (Chrsyler Spec 9602) at the factory took place at the following dates and serial numbers for each body type: **GS** **AFTER NOVEMBER 8, 1999 (MDH1108XX)** JA AFTER SEPTEMBER 7, 1998 (MDH0907XX) **JX** **AFTER MAY 21, 1999 (MDH0521XX)** LH AFTER JULY 20, 1998 (MDH0720XX) **NS** **AFTER OCTOBER 10, 1999 (MDH1010XX) WINDSOR ASSY PLANT** **AFTER OCTOBER 18, 1999 (MDH1018XX) ST LOUIS ASSY PLANT** 11TH POSITION OF VIN – R = WINDSOR/B = ST LOUIS **PL** **AFTER APRIL 24, 1999 (MDH0424XX)** PR AFTER JULY 20, 1998 (MDH0720XX) Another TSB specifies which earlier vehicles can/should be switched to ATF+4. IIRC, it was all Chrysler vehicles except certain minivans, although that exception may no longer be in effect.
> Seems you _can_ use ATF+4 in this model year. What I’m not sure is, do you > _have_ to? Cause if not, I’d rather buy ATF+3 for her fluid change, rather > than pay a premium for DC’s stupid monopoly on ATF+4. The local dealer sez > use ATF+4, but I never trust dealers, and particularly not when they > recommend something only they can sell me. > I can’t find a clear explanation anywhere of when Chrysler went to requiring > ATF+4, and when ATF+3 was still OK to use.
This will tell you what you need to know. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001/21-006-01.htm Jerry
> Friend’s van, and I’m a stick guy, so I don’t know if P-R-N-D-3-L makes it a > 3-spd or a 4-spd autobox.
4-speed. > Seems you _can_ use ATF+4 in this model year. What I’m not sure is, do you > _have_ to?
Others have posted the links to the authoritative info. > I’d rather buy ATF+3 for her fluid change, rather > than pay a premium for DC’s stupid monopoly on ATF+4.
But *SHE* would rather you use the correct fluid and saver her a ton of grief and money down the line. DS
If you don’t trust what the authority on the product sells than by all means put dexron/mercon in it or better yet type f. That will make the clutches grab real good.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE, 3.3L Flex Fuel engine. > Friend’s van, and I’m a stick guy, so I don’t know if P-R-N-D-3-L makes it a > 3-spd or a 4-spd autobox. (Don’t know if the reverse gear is counted in > auto trannies.) > She lost the owner’s manual, and fuckin’ Mopar won’t let you download one > for free, unlike Ford. So I’ve been looking online to find out what tranny > fluid to use. > Seems you _can_ use ATF+4 in this model year. What I’m not sure is, do you > _have_ to? Cause if not, I’d rather buy ATF+3 for her fluid change, rather > than pay a premium for DC’s stupid monopoly on ATF+4. The local dealer sez > use ATF+4, but I never trust dealers, and particularly not when they > recommend something only they can sell me. > I can’t find a clear explanation anywhere of when Chrysler went to requiring > ATF+4, and when ATF+3 was still OK to use. > Tx.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Friend’s van, and I’m a stick guy, so I don’t know if P-R-N-D-3-L makes it a > 3-spd or a 4-spd autobox. > 4-speed. > Seems you _can_ use ATF+4 in this model year. What I’m not sure is, do you > _have_ to? > Others have posted the links to the authoritative info. > I’d rather buy ATF+3 for her fluid change, rather > than pay a premium for DC’s stupid monopoly on ATF+4. > But *SHE* would rather you use the correct fluid and saver her a ton of > grief and money down the line. > DS
ATF+4 unless you want to lose a friend (and a transmission) in the near future.
> ATF+4 unless you want to lose a friend (and a transmission) in the near future.
If the vehicle came with ATF+3 and has never been changed over to ATF+4 then there is no reason not to use ATF+3 in the transmission. Once you change over there is no going back. My truck (1999) was sold with ATF+3 in it and that is all I use. The thing Mike has to be sure about is what is in the transmission right now. Jerry
> If you don’t trust what the authority on the product sells than by all > means put dexron/mercon in it or better yet type f. That will make the > clutches grab real good.
Um, the "authority on the product" has a monopoly on it and therefore has a vested interest in selling it. If you believe a given dealership is the real authority on how to repair a vehicle and which parts to use, the dealer may love you, but you’re being naive. Many have come to expensive grief this way. And thanks, I’ve done enough homework to know not to put anything but ATF+X in these crappy Chrysler trannys. Mike
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Seems you _can_ use ATF+4 in this model year. What I’m not sure is, do you > _have_ to? Cause if not, I’d rather buy ATF+3 for her fluid change, rather > than pay a premium for DC’s stupid monopoly on ATF+4. The local dealer sez > use ATF+4, but I never trust dealers, and particularly not when they > recommend something only they can sell me. > I can’t find a clear explanation anywhere of when Chrysler went to requiring > ATF+4, and when ATF+3 was still OK to use. > This will tell you what you need to know. > http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001/21-006-01.htm
Thanks. As I don’t know whether this thing came with ATF+4 from the factory, it looks like I’d better go with it now. Mike
> ATF+4 unless you want to lose a friend (and a transmission) in the near future. > If the vehicle came with ATF+3 and has never been changed over to ATF+4 > then there is no reason not to use ATF+3 in the transmission. Once you > change over there is no going back. My truck (1999) was sold with ATF+3 > in it and that is all I use. The thing Mike has to be sure about is > what is in the transmission right now.
Yep. I remember there was an insert card in the owner’s manual telling her to ignore whatever tranny fluid the manual specified and to instead use … well there’s the damn thing, I can’t remember what the card said, and she lost it and the manual. I vaguely remember it saying to not use ATF+X and instead use ATF+Y, but which way it went, who knows. Gonna stick with ATF+4 to be safe! Mike
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If you don’t trust what the authority on the product sells than by all > means put dexron/mercon in it or better yet type f. That will make the > clutches grab real good. > Um, the "authority on the product" has a monopoly on it and therefore has a > vested interest in selling it. > If you believe a given dealership is the real authority on how to repair a > vehicle and which parts to use, the dealer may love you, but you’re being > naive. Many have come to expensive grief this way. > And thanks, I’ve done enough homework to know not to put anything but ATF+X > in these crappy Chrysler trannys. > Mike
They become "crappy" if/when you DON’T use the correct fluid.
> If you don’t trust what the authority on the product sells than by all > means put dexron/mercon in it or better yet type f. That will make the > clutches grab real good. > Um, the "authority on the product" has a monopoly on it and therefore has a > vested interest in selling it.
They do, they hold the patent on the additive package and have only licensed it to one manufacturer. Supposedly there is no requirement that this fluid producer only sell their output to Damlier Chrysler but somehow most of the worlds production of ATF +4 ends up at DC. There are a few leaks, however. I forget who but there’s a Canadian producer that sells ATF +4, and as that producer is also whom makes it for DC, it’s probably the real thing. There’s been repeated requests by the fluid manufacturers to DC to license the patent to them for production. These so far have been ignored. What all this means is that the second the patent runs out, sometime in the next decade, all the fluid producers will immediately start selling ATF +4 and to hell with what DC wants. There has always been a kind of gentlemen’s agreement with the fluid manufacturers and the automakers on these issues. When the automakers need a new type of fluid they cooperate with the R&D department of a specified fluid manufacturer and get one custom designed. The deal works out to the maker puts up the money to make the fluid, then gets to hold the patent until it expires. The fluid maker gets to license the rights to make it very cheaply then sell it back to the maker, and to everyone else. Then the fluid makers sell it on the open market and everyone makes a lot of money. This is how ATF +3 worked out. With ATF +4 Chrysler got greedy and decided to use ATF+4 as a leverage to get people to come into dealership service departments, and to make money off fluid sales. Of course, an automaker is not setup to distribute fluids and can only do so very inefficiently, which is why they sell the stuff for the $5 a bottle or whatever rediculous price it is now. > And thanks, I’ve done enough homework to know not to put anything but ATF+X > in these crappy Chrysler trannys.
The ONLY saving grace on ATF+4 is that unlike ATF +3 it IS a synthetic fluid. Thus it in theory can last the life of the car, (not my words, I’ll refer you to the synthetic oil crowd for rediculous claims) and never needs changing. (yeah right) Ted
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > If you don’t trust what the authority on the product sells than by all > > means put dexron/mercon in it or better yet type f. That will make the > > clutches grab real good. > Um, the "authority on the product" has a monopoly on it and therefore has > a > vested interest in selling it. > a lot of money. This is how ATF +3 worked out. With ATF +4 Chrysler got > greedy > and decided to use ATF+4 as a leverage to get people to come into dealership > service departments, and to make money off fluid sales. Of course, an > automaker > is not setup to distribute fluids and can only do so very inefficiently, > which is why > they sell the stuff for the $5 a bottle or whatever rediculous price it is > now.
On Tuesday I called around and discovered that both our area Chrysler dealerships (unrelated ownership) were selling ATF+4 for the same price: $7.20/qt. Youch! Still, I felt I had no choice but to get it, to be sure I was doing the best thing for my friend’s van. (Me to parts guy at dealership: "So when’s Chrysler gonna let somebody else sell this stuff?" Parts guy: "Hopefully never.") So I picked up two gallons and did the flush. correct fluid level. So two days later (yesterday) I went back to the same dealer for the final two quarts, and guess what – the price had dropped to $5.10/qt. Doh!!! Mike
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > If you don’t trust what the authority on the product sells than by > all > > > means put dexron/mercon in it or better yet type f. That will make the > > > clutches grab real good. > > Um, the "authority on the product" has a monopoly on it and therefore > has > a > > vested interest in selling it. > a lot of money. This is how ATF +3 worked out. With ATF +4 Chrysler got > greedy > and decided to use ATF+4 as a leverage to get people to come into > dealership > service departments, and to make money off fluid sales. Of course, an > automaker > is not setup to distribute fluids and can only do so very inefficiently, > which is why > they sell the stuff for the $5 a bottle or whatever rediculous price it is > now. > On Tuesday I called around and discovered that both our area Chrysler > dealerships (unrelated ownership) were selling ATF+4 for the same price: > $7.20/qt. Youch! Still, I felt I had no choice but to get it, to be sure I > was doing the best thing for my friend’s van. (Me to parts guy at > dealership: "So when’s Chrysler gonna let somebody else sell this stuff?" > Parts guy: "Hopefully never.") So I picked up two gallons and did the > flush. > correct fluid level. So two days later (yesterday) I went back to the same > dealer for the final two quarts, and guess what – the price had dropped to > $5.10/qt.
buy the gallon containers much cheaper per quart
question….. did you buy the qrts from the same guy you bought the gallons from ?
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > If you don’t trust what the authority on the product sells than by > all > > > means put dexron/mercon in it or better yet type f. That will make the > > > clutches grab real good. > > Um, the "authority on the product" has a monopoly on it and therefore > has > a > > vested interest in selling it. > a lot of money. This is how ATF +3 worked out. With ATF +4 Chrysler got > greedy > and decided to use ATF+4 as a leverage to get people to come into > dealership > service departments, and to make money off fluid sales. Of course, an > automaker > is not setup to distribute fluids and can only do so very inefficiently, > which is why > they sell the stuff for the $5 a bottle or whatever rediculous price it is > now. > On Tuesday I called around and discovered that both our area Chrysler > dealerships (unrelated ownership) were selling ATF+4 for the same price: > $7.20/qt. Youch! Still, I felt I had no choice but to get it, to be sure I > was doing the best thing for my friend’s van. (Me to parts guy at > dealership: "So when’s Chrysler gonna let somebody else sell this stuff?" > Parts guy: "Hopefully never.") So I picked up two gallons and did the > flush. > correct fluid level. So two days later (yesterday) I went back to the same > dealer for the final two quarts, and guess what – the price had dropped to > $5.10/qt. > Doh!!! > Mike
> question….. > did you buy the qrts from the same guy you bought the gallons from ?
yep. he said "all our stuff just went down," meaning not just the atf+4. The per gallon cost at the time I bought the gallon containers saved very little over the $7.20/qt cost, I think the gallon was like $27 versus $28.80 if I’d bought it per quart. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> On Tuesday I called around and discovered that both our area Chrysler > dealerships (unrelated ownership) were selling ATF+4 for the same price: > $7.20/qt. Youch! Still, I felt I had no choice but to get it, to be sure > I > was doing the best thing for my friend’s van. (Me to parts guy at > dealership: "So when’s Chrysler gonna let somebody else sell this stuff?" > Parts guy: "Hopefully never.") So I picked up two gallons and did the > flush. achieve > correct fluid level. So two days later (yesterday) I went back to the > same > dealer for the final two quarts, and guess what – the price had dropped to > $5.10/qt. > Doh!!! > Mike
was curious. at times i can go to the parts house and they can give me different quotes depending on whos reading the book. any way its good to know its coming down some in price now.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> question….. > did you buy the qrts from the same guy you bought the gallons from ? > yep. he said "all our stuff just went down," meaning not just the atf+4. > The per gallon cost at the time I bought the gallon containers saved very > little over the $7.20/qt cost, I think the gallon was like $27 versus $28.80 > if I’d bought it per quart. > > On Tuesday I called around and discovered that both our area Chrysler > > dealerships (unrelated ownership) were selling ATF+4 for the same price: > > $7.20/qt. Youch! Still, I felt I had no choice but to get it, to be > sure > I > > was doing the best thing for my friend’s van. (Me to parts guy at > > dealership: "So when’s Chrysler gonna let somebody else sell this > stuff?" > > Parts guy: "Hopefully never.") So I picked up two gallons and did the > > flush. > achieve > > correct fluid level. So two days later (yesterday) I went back to the > same > > dealer for the final two quarts, and guess what – the price had dropped > to > > $5.10/qt. > > Doh!!! > > Mike
>was curious. at times i can go to the parts house and they can give me >different quotes depending on whos reading the book. >any way its good to know its coming down some in price now.
Yep, I just priced ATF +4 at my local DC dealer in NJ. a couple days ago and it was $5 a qt. even. Lou
> Yep, I just priced ATF +4 at my local DC dealer in NJ. a couple days ago and it > was $5 a qt. even. > Lou
I must live in a progressive part of the country, because here it’s been something like $5.20 a qt., and below $5 per gallon for a couple of years. I’ll have to check and see if it’s dropped below that here as a "global" drop, or if you guys are just seeing your local dealers come more into line with more reasonable dealers. Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
Still between $24 and $28 a gallon 40 miles west of Chicago. Bill, who are you getting it from? Curious minds and those of us who want to keep our cars running well want to know!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Yep, I just priced ATF +4 at my local DC dealer in NJ. a couple days ago and it >was $5 a qt. even. > Lou > I must live in a progressive part of the country, because here it’s been > something like $5.20 a qt., and below $5 per gallon for a couple of > years. I’ll have to check and see if it’s dropped below that here as a > "global" drop, or if you guys are just seeing your local dealers come > more into line with more reasonable dealers. > Bill Putney > (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with "x") > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>Yep, I just priced ATF +4 at my local DC dealer in NJ. a couple days ago and it >>was $5 a qt. even. >> Lou > I must live in a progressive part of the country, because here it’s been > something like $5.20 a qt., and below $5 per gallon for a couple of > years. I’ll have to check and see if it’s dropped below that here as a > "global" drop, or if you guys are just seeing your local dealers come > more into line with more reasonable dealers. > Still between $24 and $28 a gallon 40 miles west of Chicago. > Bill, who are you getting it from? Curious minds and those of us who > want to keep our cars running well want to know!!
Oops! I meant below $20/gallon, which works out to below $5/qt, which of course is what I was thinking. This was at several dealers in the mid-Atlantic region (i.e., Virginia), and I believe also a dealer in Texas. Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
I have a Z3 and it seems after parking under a really low tree a branch created a tiny hole in the roof, its small (2-3mm) and it did penetrated only the 1st layer. I was wondering if anybody has any ideas on how to repair this so water does not get in. thanks for your help
> I have a Z3 and it seems after parking under a really low tree a > branch > created a tiny hole in the roof, its small (2-3mm) and it did > penetrated only the 1st layer. I was wondering if anybody has any > ideas on how to repair this so water does not get in. > thanks for your help
I have several small holes in my E30 convertible top (wear and tear). I went to a convertible repair shop, where they took canvas pads and glued them against the top from inside with a special glue. If this is performed by someone who knows what he is doing, it will last for years and it will keep the hole from getting bigger. Frank — please replace spam-muelleimer with fk-newsgroups for e-mail contact Time Flies Like An Arrow – Fruit Flies Like A Banana
Okay. Here goes. Bear with me…..it’s stupid. You are trapped on a desert island and can only rescue a few books on electronics before the ship sinks. What books do you take? Why? (I’m not sure why you would need these books on a deserted island with no electricity, but what the hell.) Thanks, David Axt What I am asking by way of this dumb post is what are some fantastic reference books that you would not do with out in your shop.
> Okay. Here goes. Bear with me…..it’s stupid. You are > trapped on a desert island and can only rescue a few books > on electronics before the ship sinks. What books do you > take? Why?
The one that teaches me how to make a short wave radio out of coconuts.
> What books do you take? Why?
1. Valve Amplifiers by Morgan Jones. It’s actually geared toward high-end audio, but it’s got all the tube theory you’ll ever want. Very thorough, very heavy on math. 2. Tube Amps by Aspen Pitman. Just for the pics and schematics. 3. The Ultimate Tone series by Kevin O’Connor. I don’t actually have it, but it’s highly recommended by everyone on Ampage. Jerry
> The one that teaches me how to make a short wave radio out of coconuts.
LMAO!!! I think the professor wrote that one, but Gilligan spilled coconut juice on the original text. Jerry
>Okay. Here goes. Bear with me…..it’s stupid. >You are trapped on a desert island and can only rescue a few books on electronics before the ship sinks. >What books do you take? Why? >(I’m not sure why you would need these books on a deserted island with no electricity, but what the hell.) >Thanks, >David Axt >What I am asking by way of this dumb post is what are some fantastic reference books that you would not do with out in your shop.
Number one rule of sinking ships, and burning houses, is grab the Telecaster. After that, you might want to grab a book or two to use as kindling to help start fires. Pete — Why don’t we look into the future? That’s always good for a laugh. –Grim
> Okay. Here goes. Bear with me…..it’s stupid. > You are trapped on a desert island and can only rescue a few books on > electronics before the ship sinks. > What books do you take? Why?
RCA Receiving Tube Manuals, say RC-19 and a later one The Radiotron Handbook A bound copy of all the tech articles at Randall Aiken’s website An ARRL handbook (both for the electronics in general, and to hopefully help get me off the island!) I’d also look for _The Professor’s Guide to Building Everything Electronic from Common Desert Island Materials_ and _Ordering Tubes and Other Electronics From Desert Islands_. Does O’Reilly have something like _The [Coco]Nutshell Guide to Desert Island Internet Connections_? -Miles
_101 Uses for WD-40 on a Desert Island_ by Allis in Wonderland
>> What books do you take? Why? >1. Valve Amplifiers by Morgan Jones. It’s actually geared toward >high-end audio, but it’s got all the tube theory you’ll ever want. Very >thorough, very heavy on math. >2. Tube Amps by Aspen Pitman. Just for the pics and schematics.
The chapter written by Jack Darr is excellent. Ron
>Okay. Here goes. Bear with me…..it’s stupid. >You are trapped on a desert island and can only rescue a few books on electronics before the ship sinks. >What books do you take? Why?
The Radiotron Designer’s Handbook – "if not the tube amp bible it is at least Leviticus." The big red book is a 1500 page digest of everything that was known about getting music out of electronics in the 1950s. One I don’t have – The Radiation Laboratory’s volume 18 on audio electronics. Gotta have an RCA tube manual. >(I’m not sure why you would need these books on a deserted island with no electricity, but what the hell.)
Fellow could catch up with his reading. >What I am asking by way of this dumb post is what are some fantastic reference books that you would not do with out in your shop.
Oh, that’s a different question – a couple of tube manuals – Japanese transistor books – the Motorola manuals – a live internet connection – that’s what hits the bench. Ron
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> What books do you take? Why? >1. Valve Amplifiers by Morgan Jones. It’s actually geared toward >high-end audio, but it’s got all the tube theory you’ll ever want. Very >thorough, very heavy on math. >2. Tube Amps by Aspen Pitman. Just for the pics and schematics. >The chapter written by Jack Darr is excellent. >Ron
Hi Speaking of Jack Darr, I have a small collection of Mr. Darrs works including: Service Clinics No. Two and Three ( Hardbound ) Fix Your Small Appliances Eliminating Man Made Interference ( Nothing that will fix AGA :^)) How to Repair Small Appliances (Vol. 2) How to Test Almost Everything Electronic Servicing Unique Electronic Apparatus also, by other authors: Meters And Scopes – Robert J. Traister ( Hardbound ) How to Service Tape Recorders – C.A. Tuthill Handbook of Small Appliance Troubleshooting & Repair David L Heiserman ( Hardbound ) and the double super top secret: RCA Triple Pindex ( if ya know what it is, ya need it :^) 1959, Excellent condition, lived life in its envelope. this is starting to look like an ad, and it is one :^) I want to sell this little lot of books, and thought I’d give someone in AGA first whack before I send ‘em back to the yard sales from where they came. I don’t need a much money for the lot. I’m trying to decrease the volume of my belongings. Make me an offer. No more spam from me :^) ( today ) Claude
> Does O’Reilly have something like _The [Coco]Nutshell > Guide to Desert Island Internet Connections_? > -Miles
The Professor tried it once. Gilligan lost a molar and MaryAnn pulled a hamstring pedaling for 7.5 hours straight. (The Skipper needed his "reading material" from a rather risque website…;-)…) John
> Okay. Here goes. Bear with me…..it’s stupid. You are trapped on a > desert island and can only rescue a few books on electronics before the > ship sinks. What books do you take? Why? (I’m not sure why you would > need these books on a deserted island with no electricity, but what the > hell.) Thanks,David Axt What I am asking by way of this dumb post is what > are some fantastic reference books that you would not do with out in your > shop.
Take the thickest ones. Toilet paper is gonna be a real bitch… Lord Valve Practical
Dear all, my front left RS4 wheel has got these scratches and I am wondering if and how I can remove them DIY way. Thanks, Jules ***24 hours in a day…24 beers in a case…coincidence?***
The forums on www.audiworld.com have some good suggestions.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Dear all, my front left RS4 wheel has got these scratches and I am wondering > if and how I can remove them DIY way. > Thanks, Jules > ***24 hours in a day…24 beers in a case…coincidence?***
> If the brownstone is just shoing the cumulative effects of a century > or so a wear, that’s one thing. But if it’s just suddenly started > to come apart in larger chunks, I think you ought to figure out > why.
It’s just old. And someone tried to patch it once and that patch is coming off in pieces.
> A friend and I are about to tackle the repair of a brownstone stoop > and stairs that are chipping off and leaving an uneven, unsafe walking > surface. There seem to be quite a few expoxy cement type products > (Top-n-bond, etc.) but I assume they are formulated primarily for > concrete repair and wonder if any are appropriate for brownstone. I > guess my biggest concern is that the repair not be stiffer than the > base so that uneven expansion and contraction in the materials doesn’t > seperate them. Any thoughts or pointers? TIA.
If the brownstone is just shoing the cumulative effects of a century or so a wear, that’s one thing. But if it’s just suddenly started to come apart in larger chunks, I think you ought to figure out why.
A friend and I are about to tackle the repair of a brownstone stoop and stairs that are chipping off and leaving an uneven, unsafe walking surface. There seem to be quite a few expoxy cement type products (Top-n-bond, etc.) but I assume they are formulated primarily for concrete repair and wonder if any are appropriate for brownstone. I guess my biggest concern is that the repair not be stiffer than the base so that uneven expansion and contraction in the materials doesn’t seperate them. Any thoughts or pointers? TIA. Chris
> An effective solution to the "dog poops on my lawn" problem is to > videotape the dog doing it, then use a shovel to scoop it up. Since this > is not your property, it should be returned to its owner. Fling this > misplaced property at the owner’s door. Repeated applications may be > needed. > Marc
No,you videotape the owner releasing the dog,and it pooping on your property,then you go to court for a restraining order against the dog/owner.Then the next time it happens,and you’ve caught it on tape,you call the police,who arrest the owner for violating a court order (after viewing the tape.) — Jim Yanik,NRA member remove X to contact me
> "F_ck off, a__hole"
Lets not bring Old Arty Boy into this
Sympathies to the OP with the barking neighbor dog problem. >I have a neighbor 2 doors away that lets her dog loose out the front >door of her house to poop. This dog continually poops on my lawn. >I have constantly asked her to stop her dog from pooping on my lawn, >(or at least, come and pick it up) The answer I get from this owner >is always the same, "F_ck off, a__hole" The authorities don’t care. >So, now, what are my options? I ask you.
I suggest collecting and delivering the poop to your neighbor’s front yard, where it belongs; don’t bother to talk to the human. Can you videotape the dog on your property and then file trespassing charges?
> Eventually, after about a year of trying to get some relief he gave up. > One morning he shot the bird with a pellet gun. He denied it and they > couldn’t prove it. A couple months later he came home to find his dogs > dead. No winners.
Except all the other neighbors. Bob
>Maybe videotaping the dog barking would be enough for the police to speak >strongly to the guy. >You could also contact animal welfare people if the dog does not have water >and shelter and they can cite him for animal cruelty. >Wayne
That’s pretty much what I’m in the process of doing. Blowing me off when I asked them to take the dog in was their first mistake.
>Maybe videotaping the dog barking would be enough for the police to speak >strongly to the guy. >You could also contact animal welfare people if the dog does not have water >and shelter and they can cite him for animal cruelty. >Wayne > That’s pretty much what I’m in the process of doing. Blowing me off > when I asked them to take the dog in was their first mistake.
I hope for the dog’s sake, someone takes action. Dogs bark like that (usually) because they’re unhappy or bored. But if all else fails, there is a remote training device you can get that emits an ultrasonic tone that dogs don’t like each time they bark. Eventually they quit. I just saw one in a catalog for less than $50. Wish I could remember name of company for you, but I’m sure a thorough web search would turn it up. (it’s two doctors’ names, like Foster and Watson or Foster and Johnson or somehting like that!) Good luck! Songbird
send me an email and i will give you a couple of solutions this apparently is not a valid email add bill – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Maybe videotaping the dog barking would be enough for the police to speak >strongly to the guy. >You could also contact animal welfare people if the dog does not have water >and shelter and they can cite him for animal cruelty. >Wayne >> We live in a quiet neighborhood and almost everyone has a dog. Out of all >> of these dogs only one barks. It is a mutt- beagel mix. It barks for the >> entire duration that it is outside. With warm weather comes the enjoyment >> of opening windows. Now hearing this dog bark nonstop is maddening. >> We called the cops but when they finally got there the dog was back >inside. >> Appearantly the dog needs to be caught barking for the owner to be cited. >> (cited=court appearance) >> Now I’m at the point of performing a covert mission to take out the dog >but >> I don’t want to get caught standing there with a squirming potato sack in >my >> hand. >> Anyone here have experience dealing with this in your neighborhood? >The next door neighbor has over 14 dogs. Not all bark but the mess >and smell is horrible. Made it difficult to sell my house. Called >the city, but they tell me there is no ordinance against having any >number of dogs. I complained about the daily barking at 6 AM, the >neighbor was issued a written warning, and the second warning (within >12 months) they go to court. Unfortunately, there are no laws about >the smell so I planted a row of cypress to help block it out–it helps >with the barking too. I talked (nicely) with the neighbor about the >barking and offered to buy anti-bark collars but they refused claiming >the collars hurt the dogs. I’d like to hear ideas too.
> Maybe videotaping the dog barking would be enough for the police to speak > strongly to the guy. > Wayne
======= I did it successfully with a tape recording. Our statute requires 20 minutes of barking. Have you inquired/researched your town’s statute? ======= > We live in a quiet neighborhood and almost everyone has a dog. Out of all > of these dogs only one barks.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Anyone here have experience dealing with this in your neighborhood?
>We called the cops but when they finally got there the dog was back inside. >Appearantly the dog needs to be caught barking for the owner to be cited. >(cited=court appearance)
Do you have a video recorder? Maybe taping (with sound) is enough ‘evidence’ for the city to take action. A buddy of mine did this to convince the city that the speeders driving down his street were a hazard. They now routinely place a speed trap on the street. Problem solved. Good luck.
>> Now I’m at the point of performing a covert mission to take out the >> dog but I don’t want to get caught standing there with a squirming >> potato sack in my hand.
I think you need a couple of "security lights". Some large halogens should do it. Make sure they are on YOUR property. Now, where they shine is beyond your control. Of course, you will want to point them away from your bedroom windows and living areas, but if they happen to point to your neighbor’s, oh, well. When the neighbor asks about the lights, say that they go when the barking problem goes. If you want to do a little more, have them on timers to come on for short intervals at just the right time. I also liked the suggestion of recording the barks and playing them back amplified. Maybe lights and barking at the same time. Be creative. — Steve MHO ONLY….. YMM(and probably does)V
> >if you have any pain medications in your medicine chest just grind a >bunch of them up and mix it with some hamburger then toss it in the >yard…bye bye doggie. > That can get you arrested.
If you’re lame enough to get caught…
> I have a neighbor 2 doors away that lets her dog loose out the front > door of her house to poop. This dog continually poops on my lawn. > I have constantly asked her to stop her dog from pooping on my lawn, > (or at least, come and pick it up) The answer I get from this owner > is always the same, "F_ck off, a__hole" The authorities don’t care. > So, now, what are my options? I ask you. > In these cases, the problem is not with the animal, but rather, with > the owner of the animal. When any owner of an animal permits this kind > of behavior (barking or pooping), basically, the neighbor is saying to > you, (Damn it, I don’t give a sh_t about what my neighbors think) > Sighed, > Fed up with inconsiderate owners.
An effective solution to the "dog poops on my lawn" problem is to videotape the dog doing it, then use a shovel to scoop it up. Since this is not your property, it should be returned to its owner. Fling this misplaced property at the owner’s door. Repeated applications may be needed. Marc
>> Now I’m at the point of performing a covert mission to take out the > dog but I don’t want to get caught standing there with a squirming > potato sack in my hand. >if you have any pain medications in your medicine chest just grind a >bunch of them up and mix it with some hamburger then toss it in the >yard…bye bye doggie.
That can get you arrested.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > We live in a quiet neighborhood and almost everyone has a dog. Out of all > of these dogs only one barks. It is a mutt- beagel mix. It barks for the > entire duration that it is outside. With warm weather comes the enjoyment > of opening windows. Now hearing this dog bark nonstop is maddening. > We called the cops but when they finally got there the dog was back inside. > Appearantly the dog needs to be caught barking for the owner to be cited. > (cited=court appearance) > Now I’m at the point of performing a covert mission to take out the dog but > I don’t want to get caught standing there with a squirming potato sack in my > hand. > Anyone here have experience dealing with this in your neighborhood?
You didn’t mention if it was next door or if you have a neighbor on your side but the best I’ve heard was to tape the barking and play it back real loud till it starts driving the owner batty also. These situations can get ugly. I have a friend who had two purebred beagles who were very well behaved. The only time they barked was at about 4:30 to 5:00 every morning (a good hour before my friend and his wife wanted to wake up). What caused them to bark was the next door neighbors parrot who started making all kinds of racket early each morning. Eventually, after about a year of trying to get some relief he gave up. One morning he shot the bird with a pellet gun. He denied it and they couldn’t prove it. A couple months later he came home to find his dogs dead. No winners. Frank
>The next door neighbor has over 14 dogs. Not all bark but the mess >and smell is horrible. Made it difficult to sell my house. Called >the city, but they tell me there is no ordinance against having any >number of dogs. I complained about the daily barking at 6 AM, the >neighbor was issued a written warning, and the second warning (within >12 months) they go to court. Unfortunately, there are no laws about >the smell so I planted a row of cypress to help block it out–it helps >with the barking too. I talked (nicely) with the neighbor about the >barking and offered to buy anti-bark collars but they refused claiming >the collars hurt the dogs. I’d like to hear ideas too.
Not sure where you live that wouldn’t have a law against that many dogs. Try your county or city health department about the smell and mess. Randy http://members.aol.com/rsmeiner
>Soak a few sponges in bacon grease and feed ‘em to the dog. It won’t take >but a few days to stop the barking. >Alternatively, just give the dog some car antifreeze to drink. They love >the sweet taste of it. Don’t worry if you can’t get it to drink too much of >it– you can give it a little every day and that will also soon stop the >barking. >Good luck. I used to have barking dogs next door to me. I know how much of >a pain they can be to your peace and quiet.
Or the person who is disturbed by the dog can go out to his/her local pet store and buy a bark collar and present it to his/her neighbor as a peace of mind offering. I don’t think that they are very expensive and it will solve the problem. I’ve owned beagles and they are able to bark for 6 to 8 hours at a stretch. I won’t own another one, I own dobermans which are the best companion dogs in the world IMO. …Ron — 68′ RS Camaro 88′ Formula Bird
Where I live our police and local municipal budgets are so tight, that they will not respond to "barking dog" calls what’s so ever. (Even though there are existing bylaws regarding this issue) The prevailing attitude of our authorities is that it is your problem, and you must deal with it in civil court. ie(sue the neighbor for "loss of enjoyment of your property" or whatever the legal definition of that may be in your area) So what are your alternatives? Sue the neighbor? That involves lawyers, and all the costs involved with that. For that you need to provide proof of the offense(s) (lets suppose this barking dog is 1-2 blocks from your house. How would you collect the proof then?) The way I see it, if you are seeking legal options as a way to remedy your situation, you will not achieve satisfaction. The problem is directly attributed to the owner of the dog, and not directly to the dog itself. I have a neighbor 2 doors away that lets her dog loose out the front door of her house to poop. This dog continually poops on my lawn. I have constantly asked her to stop her dog from pooping on my lawn, (or at least, come and pick it up) The answer I get from this owner is always the same, "F_ck off, a__hole" The authorities don’t care. So, now, what are my options? I ask you. In these cases, the problem is not with the animal, but rather, with the owner of the animal. When any owner of an animal permits this kind of behavior (barking or pooping), basically, the neighbor is saying to you, (Damn it, I don’t give a sh_t about what my neighbors think) Sighed, Fed up with inconsiderate owners. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > We live in a quiet neighborhood and almost everyone has a dog. Out of all > of these dogs only one barks. It is a mutt- beagel mix. It barks for the > entire duration that it is outside. With warm weather comes the enjoyment > of opening windows. Now hearing this dog bark nonstop is maddening. > We called the cops but when they finally got there the dog was back inside. > Appearantly the dog needs to be caught barking for the owner to be cited. > (cited=court appearance) > Now I’m at the point of performing a covert mission to take out the dog but > I don’t want to get caught standing there with a squirming potato sack in my > hand. > Anyone here have experience dealing with this in your neighborhood?
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Maybe videotaping the dog barking would be enough for the police to speak >strongly to the guy. >You could also contact animal welfare people if the dog does not have water >and shelter and they can cite him for animal cruelty. >Wayne > We live in a quiet neighborhood and almost everyone has a dog. Out of all > of these dogs only one barks. It is a mutt- beagel mix. It barks for the > entire duration that it is outside. With warm weather comes the enjoyment > of opening windows. Now hearing this dog bark nonstop is maddening. > We called the cops but when they finally got there the dog was back >inside. > Appearantly the dog needs to be caught barking for the owner to be cited. > (cited=court appearance) > Now I’m at the point of performing a covert mission to take out the dog >but > I don’t want to get caught standing there with a squirming potato sack in >my > hand. > Anyone here have experience dealing with this in your neighborhood?
The next door neighbor has over 14 dogs. Not all bark but the mess and smell is horrible. Made it difficult to sell my house. Called the city, but they tell me there is no ordinance against having any number of dogs. I complained about the daily barking at 6 AM, the neighbor was issued a written warning, and the second warning (within 12 months) they go to court. Unfortunately, there are no laws about the smell so I planted a row of cypress to help block it out–it helps with the barking too. I talked (nicely) with the neighbor about the barking and offered to buy anti-bark collars but they refused claiming the collars hurt the dogs. I’d like to hear ideas too.
We live in a quiet neighborhood and almost everyone has a dog. Out of all of these dogs only one barks. It is a mutt- beagel mix. It barks for the entire duration that it is outside. With warm weather comes the enjoyment of opening windows. Now hearing this dog bark nonstop is maddening. We called the cops but when they finally got there the dog was back inside. Appearantly the dog needs to be caught barking for the owner to be cited. (cited=court appearance) Now I’m at the point of performing a covert mission to take out the dog but I don’t want to get caught standing there with a squirming potato sack in my hand. Anyone here have experience dealing with this in your neighborhood?
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > We live in a quiet neighborhood and almost everyone has a dog. Out of > all of these dogs only one barks. It is a mutt- beagel mix. It barks > for the entire duration that it is outside. With warm weather comes > the enjoyment of opening windows. Now hearing this dog bark nonstop > is maddening. > We called the cops but when they finally got there the dog was back > inside. Appearantly the dog needs to be caught barking for the owner > to be cited. (cited=court appearance) > Now I’m at the point of performing a covert mission to take out the > dog but I don’t want to get caught standing there with a squirming > potato sack in my hand. > Anyone here have experience dealing with this in your neighborhood?
You’re right, doing something illegal would be sinking to their level, and you don’t need that aggrivation. 2 step program: 1) Keep calling the cops. Eventually you will become enough of a pain in the butt and they will start to lean on the dog owner. If the dog "magically" goes in every time you call, I would guess you’re dealing with the type who sits there with a police scanner running while they’re watching Jerry Springer on the VCR. (trailer-trash "multitasking" <g>) If that’s the case, stop in and see your police officers, explain it to them, they can arrange to dispatch a car without tipping off the owners. In any case, keep reminding the cops that you hate being a pain, but… Step 2 if you need it is to go and see your local District Justice / Magistrate whatever they’re called in your area (the people who hold court for DUI offenders, Small Claims Court, etc.) and swear out a civil complaint. HTH. TP
Maybe videotaping the dog barking would be enough for the police to speak strongly to the guy. You could also contact animal welfare people if the dog does not have water and shelter and they can cite him for animal cruelty. Wayne
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We live in a quiet neighborhood and almost everyone has a dog. Out of all > of these dogs only one barks. It is a mutt- beagel mix. It barks for the > entire duration that it is outside. With warm weather comes the enjoyment > of opening windows. Now hearing this dog bark nonstop is maddening. > We called the cops but when they finally got there the dog was back inside. > Appearantly the dog needs to be caught barking for the owner to be cited. > (cited=court appearance) > Now I’m at the point of performing a covert mission to take out the dog but > I don’t want to get caught standing there with a squirming potato sack in my > hand. > Anyone here have experience dealing with this in your neighborhood?
>Maybe videotaping the dog barking would be enough for the police to speak >strongly to the guy. >You could also contact animal welfare people if the dog does not have water >and shelter and they can cite him for animal cruelty. >Wayne
Been there, done that. Yep, video taping is usually good enough to take care of the problem. Talking to the dog owners may or may not help. It may or may not also cause friction with the neighbors. Randy http://members.aol.com/rsmeiner
> Now I’m at the point of performing a covert mission to take out the > dog but I don’t want to get caught standing there with a squirming > potato sack in my hand.
if you have any pain medications in your medicine chest just grind a bunch of them up and mix it with some hamburger then toss it in the yard…bye bye doggie.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We live in a quiet neighborhood and almost everyone has a dog. Out of all > of these dogs only one barks. It is a mutt- beagel mix. It barks for the > entire duration that it is outside. With warm weather comes the enjoyment > of opening windows. Now hearing this dog bark nonstop is maddening. > We called the cops but when they finally got there the dog was back inside. > Appearantly the dog needs to be caught barking for the owner to be cited. > (cited=court appearance) > Now I’m at the point of performing a covert mission to take out the dog but > I don’t want to get caught standing there with a squirming potato sack in my > hand. > Anyone here have experience dealing with this in your neighborhood?
Soak a few sponges in bacon grease and feed ‘em to the dog. It won’t take but a few days to stop the barking. Alternatively, just give the dog some car antifreeze to drink. They love the sweet taste of it. Don’t worry if you can’t get it to drink too much of it– you can give it a little every day and that will also soon stop the barking. Good luck. I used to have barking dogs next door to me. I know how much of a pain they can be to your peace and quiet.
I have an old house which had notches cut into the ceiling joists in one basement room – across from the center light to above the light switch on the wall. Apparently someone was thinking to re-wire the light. What would be an appropriate way to repair the damage. I was thinking of using flat truss plates on each side of each notch, or glueing and nailing "sister" boards to them. The notches are about 1" deep into the 2×8 joists. Bob
Several years ago I helped a friend who had bought an old victorian style 2 story farm house. At one point someone had put a bathroom in an upstars bedroom and had butchered the framing putting in the pipes. It is a miracle how it kept from falling in, I can only credit the old growth yellow pine used in the framing. Anyway, the solution was installing steel plates on either side of the cut joist.We used 3/16 thick steel plate hed in place with 2" lag bolts. Lumber was old rough cut stuff so you would have to use shorter bolts or use bolts with nuts.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have an old house which had notches cut into the ceiling joists in one > basement room – across from the center light to above the light switch on > the wall. Apparently someone was thinking to re-wire the light. What would > be an appropriate way to repair the damage. I was thinking of using flat > truss plates on each side of each notch, or glueing and nailing "sister" > boards to them. The notches are about 1" deep into the 2×8 joists. > Bob
How do you repair circa 1929 plumbing shower, bath and sink fixtures?…
> How do you repair circa 1929 plumbing shower, bath and sink > fixtures?…
What, exactly, do you mean by repair?? Do you want to replace washers? A good starting point for this would be a book on Basic Plumbing. You’ll find them at HD/Lowes and even at the library. Good pics and tools you’ll need. Jim
> How do you repair circa 1929 plumbing shower, bath and sink > fixtures?…
Hack-saw or torch… Seriously. If the joint has been intact for 73 years, it’s NOT coming apart easily. NJBrad
Thank you for your interest Jim ! Exactly what books are there for circa 1929 plumbing, shower, bath and sink fixtures?… One plumber’s estimated charges for going in the wall is 1500 – 3000. Using that little tool for the seats for the washers in the fixture and replacing the washers every other week or every week hasn’t fixed the leaking.
> Thank you for your interest Jim ! > Exactly what books are there for circa 1929 plumbing, shower, bath and > sink fixtures?… > One plumber’s estimated charges for going in the wall is 1500 – 3000. > Using that little tool for the seats for the washers in the fixture > and replacing the washers every other week or every week hasn’t > fixed the leaking.
Your 1929 fixtures use the same design as many newer ones, i.e. compression washers. By the "little tool", are you talking about the seat removal tool or a seat dressing (grinding) tool. If dressing, the ground surface must be very flat with no cracks left. You may be better off replacing the std washers with "No-Rotate" washers. Should be able to find them at a big hardware store. The washer is free to spin on the stem and thus doesn’t grind into the seat. Take a look at what books are available; most go over these basic repairs. If the fixtures are otherwise sound, don’t be talked into wholesale replacement. Jim
I have a 1983 Caprice that is in really nice shape but the headliner fabric is starting to sag. I would appreciate any suggestions as to how to repair this. TIA
Llyod Go to Home Depot. Go to the section where they have AC ducts. They sell thin aluminum strips about 1 1/2 wide and 6 feet long. You can bend these to conform with the shape of your car’s ceiling. slip each end into the door frame mouldings attached to the roof. I got 7 in my car. It looks like convertible top bows when your done. Works Great, the bars cost $2.99 and they are paintable Good luck Harryface Presently cruising in ~_~_~_>> 4. 1991 Pontiac Bonneville, 238,611 miles 1. 1973 Chevy Impala 4 door, 1980 – 83 2. 1968 Buick LeSabre Convertible, 1983-86 3. 1978 Olds Holiday 88, 1986 -91 5. 1989 Chevy Cavalier Z- 24 Convertible, 1996 to 2000
You don’t repair them you replace them. The foam deteriorates with age. SA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a 1983 Caprice that is in really nice shape but the headliner fabric > is starting to sag. I would appreciate any suggestions as to how to repair > this. > TIA
thumbtacks or staples 
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 1983 Caprice that is in really nice shape but the headliner fabric > is starting to sag. I would appreciate any suggestions as to how to repair > this. > TIA
They fall out.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> thumbtacks or staples > I have a 1983 Caprice that is in really nice shape but the headliner > fabric > is starting to sag. I would appreciate any suggestions as to how to repair > this. > TIA
I fixed my felt one in a Rabbit by taking it out and bringing it to a boat upholstery place. For 80.00 they made it like new. I was quite happy as I had tried twice to re-glue it with headliner spray – no dice. If I had to do it all over again I would check the price of a new one at the dealer first. — Best Regards; Marvin Miller http://www.askmarvin.ca
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Then just use screws like the previous owner of my `79 caddy. > Steve > They fall out. > > thumbtacks or staples
I has the one in my 87 monte carlo ls done for $85. The guy came to my house and did it right in the driveway, took about an hour
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I fixed my felt one in a Rabbit by taking it out and bringing it to a boat > upholstery place. For 80.00 they made it like new. I was quite happy as I > had tried twice to re-glue it with headliner spray – no dice. > If I had to do it all over again I would check the price of a new one at the > dealer first. > — > Best Regards; > Marvin Miller > http://www.askmarvin.ca > Then just use screws like the previous owner of my `79 caddy. > Steve > > They fall out. > > > thumbtacks or staples
Most GM Vehicles have a cardboard or thin plastic "shell" that the Headliner material is attached to. I was suprised how easy it was to remove the shell, and recover it with new material… I removed the trim surrounding the headliner, removed the dome light and sun visors, and believe it or not, the shell was "velcroed" in place ! I pulled it out and cleaned the residual foam material off by lightly "sanding" ( By Hand ) using some fairly rough sandpaper, being carful not to bend of crease the shell. I purchased new headliner material ( for about $35 ) applied spray adhesive ( NOT THE 3M STUFF, It Doesn’t do well in the heat ! ) I used "Tac-It" Neoprere Upholstery Adhesive, ( about $12 ) it was recommended by several car upholstery shops. When the adhesive gets tacky, ask for some help placing the material onto the shell, as it’s a one shot deal, once it touches, it’s stuck. Make sure you’ve left excess around the periphery as well, because you’ll need to turn over the headliner, and add a little adhesive on the other side ( at the front and back only on mine ) where you’ll "roll" the upholstry over the edge, then using a SHARP razor knife, trim all but about 3/4" off. Let it set for a few hours, and make sure it’s all stuck down. Then put it back in place, and reinstall the removed hardware. I recommend not doing any final "trimming" on the sides untill you’re ready to replace the trim pieces around the outside, in case you need to shift it around a bit at the last minute.. I’ve done this 3 times and it looks great… I had an 84 ElCamino, and I used a "quilted" material, ( like Diamond Tuck ) and it was so much nicer than the original, everyone wanted me to do thiers too ! That was my first try, and it was the easiest because it was so small. But it made me less reluctant to do the next one, and the last which was my 88 Bonneville with a sun roof… I did run into trouble on it, the headliner came out fine, but the "sun shield" that slides open and closed with the sunroof turned out too "thick, and doesn’t open properly. and I’m looking for matching upholstry now thats 1/16" or less.. hope this helps, it may seem like a lot of work, but it looks better than new, and it was less than $50… Two key points to remember: 1.) CLEAN THE OLD FOAM OFF COMPLETELY AND WIPE IT OFF WITH A RAG DAMPENED WITH ALCOHOL, BEFORE APPLYING THE ADHESIVE ! (don’t soak it, you only need to clean any residual dust off) 2.) TRIM THE PERIPHERY LEAVING 1" to 2" EXCESS, THEN, AFTER IT’S IN THE CAR, AND THE POSITINING LOOKS GOOD, TRIM THE REMAINDER - and then, only what HAS to be trimmed. Good Luck, Rich…