- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My front passenger side door has recently started rattling > and it is getting worse (more frequent and louder) by the > day. I have seen issues related to the stereo system, but > this is a rattle at the slightest bump in the road. > Not coincidentally (probably), the dealer did work on this > same door over the summer, on the window and lock. I am > wondering if they didn’t screw something down tight, or if > it is one of those clips used to hold the door panel not > holding tight. According to the FSM, the clips should be > replaced after removing the panel 3 times; I know they’ve > had the panel off at least 2. Naturally this problem became > evident shortly after the 90 day work warranty expired, so > I’d rather not pay them to fix it, and possibly create > another problem. > Does anyone have any suggestions about how to fix this? I > am very reluctant to remove the door panel, but perhaps this > isn’t necessary? The noise can be lessened by pressing > (putting pressure) on the door panel over the armrest.
The two most likely causes: (1) The clips that hold the panel on – there are two in each door – go to the Chrysler dealer and ask for them – they are officially called the "white" clips by Chrysler and the dealerships to distinguish them from other types of clips. I would not suggest using generic type similar clips from the auto parts store "HELP" aisle. (2) Chances are good that if you look at the three screws along the very bottom edge of the door panel, you will see that one or more of the screw holes are cracked and broken. Chrysler has an OK bandaid fix for it in the form of special washers (same idea as fender washers, but special shape) that you order pre-painted to match the panel color. There’s a thread (started by yours truly) that gives part numbers and even photos of what the washers look like installed here: http://pub88.ezboard.com/f300menthusiastsclubfrm8.showMessage?topicID…. Also might check speakers to make sure they are installed correctly and tight. Hopefully it is not caused by the dealer having left something loose, but even that should be easy to fix by removing the panel and seeing whats not tight. Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
> Thanks for the tips! A preliminary inspection didn’t reveal any missing > screws, although I’ll be looking much more closely when I get a chance. One > thing I noticed is that the noise seems to go away after I’ve been driving. > Maybe this is why I didn’t notice anything wrong in the summer: because it > was warm. Perhaps whatever is loose expands slightly when the car warms, > thus ‘fixing’ the problem. > It’s been chilly lately and I’ll try to pay attention to the inside > temperature versus the door noise. It’s a real annoyance when it is
You’re welcome. About the only thing inside rattling around would be: (1) Window motor assembly – four bolts on a flat plate and a brace that attaches with one bolt towards the rear of the door (in open slotted hole – make sure it’s in the slot and not just flapping around). (2) window tracks (3) The sheet metal piece that the pull cup screws to (doglegs out to form a horizontal pedestal for the cup to sit on and attach to) – it is aligned vertically and attaches to the door with one bolt at top and one at bottom of the door – the top bolt is in an open slotted hole – make sure it isn’t missing the slot completely – would bang around if out of the slot. I have to assume they put the inner liner (water shield) back in – it helps cushion and provide sound deadening. Also, a linkage (inside door handle back to latch, outside handle to latch) could be rattling against something. Speaker tight? Door latches tightly when closed? (Try shaking whole door when it’s closed). Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
I had a rattle in the driver’s door of my ‘99 300M. Had the dealer look at it when the car was in for service. On the work order was a note that "mounts are broken" or some such. Got hold of the Service Manager and had him look up the history of repairs on the car. They’d had the door apart three of four times for window problems. "Ill order you a new panel and call you when it comes in." About ten days later I got the call and took the car in. New panel installed, no rattle, no charge! Good dealer in my book. — Jim "Gramps" Shulthiess Rockingham, NC Red 1999 800A VROC #300, WARB #39 NCVulcan #47A GAVROC #0026 Zenriders #315 TNVROC HM#43
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for the tips! A preliminary inspection didn’t reveal any missing > screws, although I’ll be looking much more closely when I get a chance. One > thing I noticed is that the noise seems to go away after I’ve been driving. > Maybe this is why I didn’t notice anything wrong in the summer: because it > was warm. Perhaps whatever is loose expands slightly when the car warms, > thus ‘fixing’ the problem. > It’s been chilly lately and I’ll try to pay attention to the inside > temperature versus the door noise. It’s a real annoyance when it is > You’re welcome. > About the only thing inside rattling around would be: > (1) Window motor assembly – four bolts on a flat plate and a brace that > attaches with one bolt towards the rear of the door (in open slotted > hole – make sure it’s in the slot and not just flapping around). > (2) window tracks > (3) The sheet metal piece that the pull cup screws to (doglegs out to > form a horizontal pedestal for the cup to sit on and attach to) – it is > aligned vertically and attaches to the door with one bolt at top and one > at bottom of the door – the top bolt is in an open slotted hole – make > sure it isn’t missing the slot completely – would bang around if out of > the slot. > I have to assume they put the inner liner (water shield) back in – it > helps cushion and provide sound deadening. Also, a linkage (inside door > handle back to latch, outside handle to latch) could be rattling against > something. > Speaker tight? > Door latches tightly when closed? (Try shaking whole door when it’s > closed). > Bill Putney > (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with "x") > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Oh – almost forgot the simple things – make sure the dealer put all the > screws back in the panel. > Let’s see – there are (working from memory here): > 1 screw in inside door handle recess (look straight in behind handle) > 1 screw in door pull cup (on the arm rest, in the very bottom of the > pull cup) > Three distributed radially around the speaker (remove speaker grill – > they are in very deep recesses – may need a flashlight or good daylight > to see if the screws are in there or just holes with no screws) > The 3 along the bottom edge of the panel. > Bill Putney > (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with "x") > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—– > Oh – two more screws in deep wells in the large concave area that faces > the end of the dash when the door is closed – can’t miss them when the > door is open. (Would have posted this earlier today, but was at work > and didn’t want to post thru Google – not sure I can trust them not to > SPAM me if I sign up with them.)
Thanks for the tips! A preliminary inspection didn’t reveal any missing screws, although I’ll be looking much more closely when I get a chance. One thing I noticed is that the noise seems to go away after I’ve been driving. Maybe this is why I didn’t notice anything wrong in the summer: because it was warm. Perhaps whatever is loose expands slightly when the car warms, thus ‘fixing’ the problem. It’s been chilly lately and I’ll try to pay attention to the inside temperature versus the door noise. It’s a real annoyance when it is
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Oh – almost forgot the simple things – make sure the dealer put all the > screws back in the panel. > Let’s see – there are (working from memory here): > 1 screw in inside door handle recess (look straight in behind handle) > 1 screw in door pull cup (on the arm rest, in the very bottom of the > pull cup) > Three distributed radially around the speaker (remove speaker grill – > they are in very deep recesses – may need a flashlight or good daylight > to see if the screws are in there or just holes with no screws) > The 3 along the bottom edge of the panel. > Bill Putney > (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with "x") > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
Oh – two more screws in deep wells in the large concave area that faces the end of the dash when the door is closed – can’t miss them when the door is open. (Would have posted this earlier today, but was at work and didn’t want to post thru Google – not sure I can trust them not to SPAM me if I sign up with them.) Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for the tips! A preliminary inspection didn’t reveal any missing > screws, although I’ll be looking much more closely when I get a chance. One > thing I noticed is that the noise seems to go away after I’ve been driving. > Maybe this is why I didn’t notice anything wrong in the summer: because it > was warm. Perhaps whatever is loose expands slightly when the car warms, > thus ‘fixing’ the problem. > It’s been chilly lately and I’ll try to pay attention to the inside > temperature versus the door noise. It’s a real annoyance when it is > You’re welcome. > About the only thing inside rattling around would be: > (1) Window motor assembly – four bolts on a flat plate and a brace that > attaches with one bolt towards the rear of the door (in open slotted > hole – make sure it’s in the slot and not just flapping around). > (2) window tracks > (3) The sheet metal piece that the pull cup screws to (doglegs out to > form a horizontal pedestal for the cup to sit on and attach to) – it is > aligned vertically and attaches to the door with one bolt at top and one > at bottom of the door – the top bolt is in an open slotted hole – make > sure it isn’t missing the slot completely – would bang around if out of > the slot. > I have to assume they put the inner liner (water shield) back in – it > helps cushion and provide sound deadening. Also, a linkage (inside door > handle back to latch, outside handle to latch) could be rattling against > something. > Speaker tight? > Door latches tightly when closed? (Try shaking whole door when it’s > closed).
I took a look at that front right door today. (Boy was it beautiful out!) You guessed it, there are cracks around every screw at the bottom. It looks the dealer tried to overcome this with some kind of rectangular washer deal. The special colored washers you found look like they are a lot bigger. Perhaps this is the source of my problem. Unfortunately it’s real hard to diagnose b/c the door only makes noise when I am driving, and then I"m in the left seat! 
Complicating this is that the noise doesn’t happen at predictable times, it happens at some bumps in the road, but not others. Bumps don’t seem to cause the door to make as much noise when the car is warm for some reason (expansion?) I have noticed that when I apply pressure to the panel the rattling stops. I really want to solve this one, perhaps if I can get those colored washers it will fix it…. Thanks!
Oh – almost forgot the simple things – make sure the dealer put all the screws back in the panel. Let’s see – there are (working from memory here): 1 screw in inside door handle recess (look straight in behind handle) 1 screw in door pull cup (on the arm rest, in the very bottom of the pull cup) Three distributed radially around the speaker (remove speaker grill – they are in very deep recesses – may need a flashlight or good daylight to see if the screws are in there or just holes with no screws) The 3 along the bottom edge of the panel. Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
My front passenger side door has recently started rattling and it is getting worse (more frequent and louder) by the day. I have seen issues related to the stereo system, but this is a rattle at the slightest bump in the road. Not coincidentally (probably), the dealer did work on this same door over the summer, on the window and lock. I am wondering if they didn’t screw something down tight, or if it is one of those clips used to hold the door panel not holding tight. According to the FSM, the clips should be replaced after removing the panel 3 times; I know they’ve had the panel off at least 2. Naturally this problem became evident shortly after the 90 day work warranty expired, so I’d rather not pay them to fix it, and possibly create another problem. Does anyone have any suggestions about how to fix this? I am very reluctant to remove the door panel, but perhaps this isn’t necessary? The noise can be lessened by pressing (putting pressure) on the door panel over the armrest.
My front passenger side door has recently started rattling and it is getting worse (more frequent and louder) by the day. I have seen issues related to the stereo system, but this is a rattle at the slightest bump in the road. Not coincidentally (probably), the dealer did work on this same door over the summer, on the window and lock. I am wondering if they didn’t screw something down tight, or if it is one of those clips used to hold the door panel not holding tight. According to the FSM, the clips should be replaced after removing the panel 3 times; I know they’ve had the panel off at least 2. Naturally this problem became evident shortly after the 90 day work warranty expired, so I’d rather not pay them to fix it, and possibly create another problem. Does anyone have any suggestions about how to fix this? I am very reluctant to remove the door panel, but perhaps this isn’t necessary? The noise can be lessened by pressing (putting pressure) on the door panel over the armrest.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My front passenger side door has recently started rattling > and it is getting worse (more frequent and louder) by the > day. I have seen issues related to the stereo system, but > this is a rattle at the slightest bump in the road. > Not coincidentally (probably), the dealer did work on this > same door over the summer, on the window and lock. I am > wondering if they didn’t screw something down tight, or if > it is one of those clips used to hold the door panel not > holding tight. According to the FSM, the clips should be > replaced after removing the panel 3 times; I know they’ve > had the panel off at least 2. Naturally this problem became > evident shortly after the 90 day work warranty expired, so > I’d rather not pay them to fix it, and possibly create > another problem. > Does anyone have any suggestions about how to fix this? I > am very reluctant to remove the door panel, but perhaps this > isn’t necessary? The noise can be lessened by pressing > (putting pressure) on the door panel over the armrest.
The two most likely causes: (1) The clips that hold the panel on – there are two in each door – go to the Chrysler dealer and ask for them – they are officially called the "white" clips by Chrysler and the dealerships to distinguish them from other types of clips. I would not suggest using generic type similar clips from the auto parts store "HELP" aisle. (2) Chances are good that if you look at the three screws along the very bottom edge of the door panel, you will see that one or more of the screw holes are cracked and broken. Chrysler has an OK bandaid fix for it in the form of special washers (same idea as fender washers, but special shape) that you order pre-painted to match the panel color. There’s a thread (started by yours truly) that gives part numbers and even photos of what the washers look like installed here: http://pub88.ezboard.com/f300menthusiastsclubfrm8.showMessage?topicID…. Also might check speakers to make sure they are installed correctly and tight. Hopefully it is not caused by the dealer having left something loose, but even that should be easy to fix by removing the panel and seeing whats not tight. Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
Oh – almost forgot the simple things – make sure the dealer put all the screws back in the panel. Let’s see – there are (working from memory here): 1 screw in inside door handle recess (look straight in behind handle) 1 screw in door pull cup (on the arm rest, in the very bottom of the pull cup) Three distributed radially around the speaker (remove speaker grill – they are in very deep recesses – may need a flashlight or good daylight to see if the screws are in there or just holes with no screws) The 3 along the bottom edge of the panel. Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Oh – almost forgot the simple things – make sure the dealer put all the > screws back in the panel. > Let’s see – there are (working from memory here): > 1 screw in inside door handle recess (look straight in behind handle) > 1 screw in door pull cup (on the arm rest, in the very bottom of the > pull cup) > Three distributed radially around the speaker (remove speaker grill – > they are in very deep recesses – may need a flashlight or good daylight > to see if the screws are in there or just holes with no screws) > The 3 along the bottom edge of the panel. > Bill Putney > (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with "x") > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
Oh – two more screws in deep wells in the large concave area that faces the end of the dash when the door is closed – can’t miss them when the door is open. (Would have posted this earlier today, but was at work and didn’t want to post thru Google – not sure I can trust them not to SPAM me if I sign up with them.) Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Oh – almost forgot the simple things – make sure the dealer put all the > screws back in the panel. > Let’s see – there are (working from memory here): > 1 screw in inside door handle recess (look straight in behind handle) > 1 screw in door pull cup (on the arm rest, in the very bottom of the > pull cup) > Three distributed radially around the speaker (remove speaker grill – > they are in very deep recesses – may need a flashlight or good daylight > to see if the screws are in there or just holes with no screws) > The 3 along the bottom edge of the panel. > Bill Putney > (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with "x") > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—– > Oh – two more screws in deep wells in the large concave area that faces > the end of the dash when the door is closed – can’t miss them when the > door is open. (Would have posted this earlier today, but was at work > and didn’t want to post thru Google – not sure I can trust them not to > SPAM me if I sign up with them.)
Thanks for the tips! A preliminary inspection didn’t reveal any missing screws, although I’ll be looking much more closely when I get a chance. One thing I noticed is that the noise seems to go away after I’ve been driving. Maybe this is why I didn’t notice anything wrong in the summer: because it was warm. Perhaps whatever is loose expands slightly when the car warms, thus ‘fixing’ the problem. It’s been chilly lately and I’ll try to pay attention to the inside temperature versus the door noise. It’s a real annoyance when it is
> Thanks for the tips! A preliminary inspection didn’t reveal any missing > screws, although I’ll be looking much more closely when I get a chance. One > thing I noticed is that the noise seems to go away after I’ve been driving. > Maybe this is why I didn’t notice anything wrong in the summer: because it > was warm. Perhaps whatever is loose expands slightly when the car warms, > thus ‘fixing’ the problem. > It’s been chilly lately and I’ll try to pay attention to the inside > temperature versus the door noise. It’s a real annoyance when it is
You’re welcome. About the only thing inside rattling around would be: (1) Window motor assembly – four bolts on a flat plate and a brace that attaches with one bolt towards the rear of the door (in open slotted hole – make sure it’s in the slot and not just flapping around). (2) window tracks (3) The sheet metal piece that the pull cup screws to (doglegs out to form a horizontal pedestal for the cup to sit on and attach to) – it is aligned vertically and attaches to the door with one bolt at top and one at bottom of the door – the top bolt is in an open slotted hole – make sure it isn’t missing the slot completely – would bang around if out of the slot. I have to assume they put the inner liner (water shield) back in – it helps cushion and provide sound deadening. Also, a linkage (inside door handle back to latch, outside handle to latch) could be rattling against something. Speaker tight? Door latches tightly when closed? (Try shaking whole door when it’s closed). Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x") —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
I had a rattle in the driver’s door of my ‘99 300M. Had the dealer look at it when the car was in for service. On the work order was a note that "mounts are broken" or some such. Got hold of the Service Manager and had him look up the history of repairs on the car. They’d had the door apart three of four times for window problems. "Ill order you a new panel and call you when it comes in." About ten days later I got the call and took the car in. New panel installed, no rattle, no charge! Good dealer in my book. — Jim "Gramps" Shulthiess Rockingham, NC Red 1999 800A VROC #300, WARB #39 NCVulcan #47A GAVROC #0026 Zenriders #315 TNVROC HM#43
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for the tips! A preliminary inspection didn’t reveal any missing > screws, although I’ll be looking much more closely when I get a chance. One > thing I noticed is that the noise seems to go away after I’ve been driving. > Maybe this is why I didn’t notice anything wrong in the summer: because it > was warm. Perhaps whatever is loose expands slightly when the car warms, > thus ‘fixing’ the problem. > It’s been chilly lately and I’ll try to pay attention to the inside > temperature versus the door noise. It’s a real annoyance when it is > You’re welcome. > About the only thing inside rattling around would be: > (1) Window motor assembly – four bolts on a flat plate and a brace that > attaches with one bolt towards the rear of the door (in open slotted > hole – make sure it’s in the slot and not just flapping around). > (2) window tracks > (3) The sheet metal piece that the pull cup screws to (doglegs out to > form a horizontal pedestal for the cup to sit on and attach to) – it is > aligned vertically and attaches to the door with one bolt at top and one > at bottom of the door – the top bolt is in an open slotted hole – make > sure it isn’t missing the slot completely – would bang around if out of > the slot. > I have to assume they put the inner liner (water shield) back in – it > helps cushion and provide sound deadening. Also, a linkage (inside door > handle back to latch, outside handle to latch) could be rattling against > something. > Speaker tight? > Door latches tightly when closed? (Try shaking whole door when it’s > closed). > Bill Putney > (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my > address with "x") > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–== Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for the tips! A preliminary inspection didn’t reveal any missing > screws, although I’ll be looking much more closely when I get a chance. One > thing I noticed is that the noise seems to go away after I’ve been driving. > Maybe this is why I didn’t notice anything wrong in the summer: because it > was warm. Perhaps whatever is loose expands slightly when the car warms, > thus ‘fixing’ the problem. > It’s been chilly lately and I’ll try to pay attention to the inside > temperature versus the door noise. It’s a real annoyance when it is > You’re welcome. > About the only thing inside rattling around would be: > (1) Window motor assembly – four bolts on a flat plate and a brace that > attaches with one bolt towards the rear of the door (in open slotted > hole – make sure it’s in the slot and not just flapping around). > (2) window tracks > (3) The sheet metal piece that the pull cup screws to (doglegs out to > form a horizontal pedestal for the cup to sit on and attach to) – it is > aligned vertically and attaches to the door with one bolt at top and one > at bottom of the door – the top bolt is in an open slotted hole – make > sure it isn’t missing the slot completely – would bang around if out of > the slot. > I have to assume they put the inner liner (water shield) back in – it > helps cushion and provide sound deadening. Also, a linkage (inside door > handle back to latch, outside handle to latch) could be rattling against > something. > Speaker tight? > Door latches tightly when closed? (Try shaking whole door when it’s > closed).
I took a look at that front right door today. (Boy was it beautiful out!) You guessed it, there are cracks around every screw at the bottom. It looks the dealer tried to overcome this with some kind of rectangular washer deal. The special colored washers you found look like they are a lot bigger. Perhaps this is the source of my problem. Unfortunately it’s real hard to diagnose b/c the door only makes noise when I am driving, and then I"m in the left seat! Complicating this is that the noise doesn’t happen at predictable times, it happens at some bumps in the road, but not others. Bumps don’t seem to cause the door to make as much noise when the car is warm for some reason (expansion?) I have noticed that when I apply pressure to the panel the rattling stops. I really want to solve this one, perhaps if I can get those colored washers it will fix it…. Thanks!
I live in Orange County, California and lately I noticed a slight smell of gas at the gas meter by the side of my house. I have traced the smell to come from a joint on the house-side of the meter. Is the gas company responsible for fixing this leak or is the home owner responsible for paying for the fix? Either way, I will be calling my gas company to check it out to fix it. Any tips will be appreciated.
I sure hope you have called them already! I have had two gas leaks over the years. The gas company fixed them for free, even though they obviously were my responsibility. I expect they will handle yours likewise. With water, if it is on your property, it is your problem; at least around here. I expect it is like that on gas also, though it shouldn’t be an issue.
> . . . lately I noticed a slight smell of gas at the gas meter by the side
of my house. . >Either way, I will be > calling my gas company to check it out to fix it.
WHY are you waiting to call. A gas leak, even very minor, can cause a gas build up to explosive levels. CALL you gas company RIGHT NOW! Every gas company I’ve ever had service from responds to a reported gas leak very quickly, usually within an hour or so!
It depends on where you are as to who pays. Where I am everything on my side of the curb box is my problem. I have had two gas leaks, one about 40 years ago and they came out and turned off the gas until it could be fixed. I had to have the pipe sleaved, not too bad. The next time I was digging and hit the gas pipe. This time it was no small leak, you could hear it hissing and smell it a block away. They came and out turned it off, (took them about 30 minutes – a long story). They told me how to fix it and where to get the parts and when the place closed. Saved me a lot of money. The last one they found a very small leak my side of the meter when they were looking for a leak somewhere else in the neighborhood. It turned out the leak they were called for was a propane barbeque, but my gas was turned off in mid winter for two days. They are not bad people, they are just trying to keep you alive. I even had one fix a leak on the spot for me. — Joseph E. Meehan 26 + 6 = 1 It’s Irish Math
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I live in Orange County, California and lately I noticed a slight > smell of gas at the gas meter by the side of my house. > I have traced the smell to come from a joint on the house-side of the > meter. > Is the gas company responsible for fixing this leak or is the home > owner responsible for paying for the fix? Either way, I will be > calling my gas company to check it out to fix it. > Any tips will be appreciated.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > It depends on where you are as to who pays. Where I am everything on my > side of the curb box is my problem. > I have had two gas leaks, one about 40 years ago and they came out and > turned off the gas until it could be fixed. I had to have the pipe sleaved, > not too bad. The next time I was digging and hit the gas pipe. This time > it was no small leak, you could hear it hissing and smell it a block away. > They came and out turned it off, (took them about 30 minutes – a long > story). They told me how to fix it and where to get the parts and when the > place closed. Saved me a lot of money. The last one they found a very > small leak my side of the meter when they were looking for a leak somewhere > else in the neighborhood. It turned out the leak they were called for was a > propane barbeque, but my gas was turned off in mid winter for two days. > They are not bad people, they are just trying to keep you alive. I even > had one fix a leak on the spot for me.
Interesting. We’ve had two small leaks inside – one in an apartment, and one in a house. Both were from the hot water heater. I bet it didn’t take the gas company more than 15 minutes to show up, and re-solder the connections, for free. The third time was major – we were away on vacation for a week, and the inlaws stopped by to check the house. The whole house had been filled with gas from a furnace pilot that went out, and the valve failed, so it continued leaking gas. From what they told us, the company brought in whole-house fans, ventilated the house, and replaced the pilot. No charge. Make me feel somewhat better when I get those $200+ utility bills. ;-) – Rich
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It depends on where you are as to who pays. Where I am everything on my > side of the curb box is my problem. > I have had two gas leaks, one about 40 years ago and they came out and > turned off the gas until it could be fixed. I had to have the pipe sleaved, > not too bad. The next time I was digging and hit the gas pipe. This time > it was no small leak, you could hear it hissing and smell it a block away. > They came and out turned it off, (took them about 30 minutes – a long > story). They told me how to fix it and where to get the parts and when the > place closed. Saved me a lot of money. The last one they found a very > small leak my side of the meter when they were looking for a leak somewhere > else in the neighborhood. It turned out the leak they were called for was a > propane barbeque, but my gas was turned off in mid winter for two days. > They are not bad people, they are just trying to keep you alive. I even > had one fix a leak on the spot for me. > Interesting. We’ve had two small leaks inside – one in an apartment, > and one in a house. Both were from the hot water heater. I bet > it didn’t take the gas company more than 15 minutes to show up, > and re-solder the connections, for free.
Five years or so ago, we converted from oil to gas heat. The gas company came though and installed the whole shootin’ match (oops 
. They brought the pipe in from the street, bored the hole through the foundation, installed all the interior pipe, and a conversion burner (we do pay $12/mo for the burner, maintenance included). They’ve been *very* good. This has been my experience with the gas companies I’ve dealt with. > The third time was major – we were away on vacation for a week, > and the inlaws stopped by to check the house. The whole house > had been filled with gas from a furnace pilot that went out, and > the valve failed, so it continued leaking gas. From what they > told us, the company brought in whole-house fans, ventilated > the house, and replaced the pilot. No charge.
I had one big leak some 30 years ago in an old house where we were renting the bottom floor (first slum out of college). We had a pilot go out and re-lit it (yikes!). We opened the windows to let the place air out and went out into the back yard wait and talk to the neighbors. We came back in and the smell was worse. I went downstairs to look over the situation. I heard a hissing, though it tool me a minute to find it. I yelled at everyone to leave *NOW* and do *not* touch anything (including the phone, and no my words weren’t so nice)! The copper flex pipe out of the cast iron pipe completely broke off and there was no cutoff nearby. We evacuated the house (windows were all open already) and waited for the gas company to arrive. I dont recall who paid for the fix, but it was fixed quickly. Given where I was living at the time it must have been the gas company. ;-) > Make me feel somewhat better when I get those $200+ utility > bills. ;-)
You’re easy. ;-) — Keith
> Interesting. We’ve had two small leaks inside – one in an apartment, > and one in a house. Both were from the hot water heater. I bet > it didn’t take the gas company more than 15 minutes to show up, > and re-solder the connections, for free. > – Rich
Soldered pipe for gas lines?? kjpro ps LP or Natural Gas??
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >I can’t open the files. > >Why do I get an error saying that the file is password protected? > >I’m using OpenOffice.org1.0 and it should be compatible. > >Are the files password protected or is this Microsoft’s way of enforcing >the > >use of their products only, to open the .xls file? > >Sounds like a great spreadsheet. > I’ve only tested it with Microsoft Excel on Windows and Macintosh. I > can’t speak intelligently regarding the "OpenOffice.org1.0" product. > Sorry. The spreadsheet is receiving rave reviews from people who are > using MS Excel and are using the spreadsheet. >I am using Excel 2000 and it will not open because the " Macros are Excel >version 4.0 and they cannot be signed or disabled under high security." Any >clue what that means and how to fix??
I don’t have the details with me (I’m on a Mac right now), but the dialog that delivers that message also tells you how to change your security settings to allow you to specify on a case-by-case basis if you want to enable macros or not. | (hotmail acct is spam catcher)
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hello, >I have created The Ultimate Fuel Logbook and Mileage Spreadsheet for >people who want to track their fuel consumption and determine the >fuel-efficiency of their vehicle. Due to popular demand, I have made >this spreadsheet available to interested parties (free, of course). >Duuude who cares! US gas prices are still the cheapest in the >industrialized world. When I ride, mileage is the last thing on my >mind. >Which is errrr…. why I’ve found myself pushing my bike a couple of >times. :0
Hey, we don’t _ride_ bikes because we _need_ to either :> | (hotmail acct is spam catcher)
>>I am using Excel 2000 and it will not open because the " Macros are Excel >version 4.0 and they cannot be signed or disabled under high security." Any >clue what that means and how to fix??
Perhaps: Tools > Macro > Security…
Thanks., it works. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > says… > I am using Excel 2000 and it will not open because the " Macros are Excel > version 4.0 and they cannot be signed or disabled under high security." Any > clue what that means and how to fix?? > Under the macros submenu in tools menu(?) there is a security option. > Is was part of one of the service packs I believe. You can set the > security to Medium, and you’ll be prompted when you open the file. > — > Cam > ‘89 RZ 350
>Hello, >I have created The Ultimate Fuel Logbook and Mileage Spreadsheet for >people who want to track their fuel consumption and determine the >fuel-efficiency of their vehicle. Due to popular demand, I have made >this spreadsheet available to interested parties (free, of course).
Duuude who cares! US gas prices are still the cheapest in the industrialized world. When I ride, mileage is the last thing on my mind. Which is errrr…. why I’ve found myself pushing my bike a couple of times. :0
> The manual work-around for this rare scenario is covered if you just > point to the "Fuel Tank Is Filled In" cell on the "Settings and Stats" > page. But I agree with you that it would be more elegant to revise the > spreadsheet’s contents to account for change in this setting, and for > changes in the "Odometer Units" pop-up menu. > Thanks for the suggestion.
If you have ton(ne)s of time, you might want to look at cleaning things up for those of us who don’t always fill the tank each time. There are some serious spikes in the "per tank" milage. The overall average is good. My car is showing "average l/100km" of 10ish, but high and low tanks of 3 and 54 respectively. And no – I don’t have a forumla for it. — Cam ‘89 RZ 350
I am using Excel 2000 and it will not open because the " Macros are Excel version 4.0 and they cannot be signed or disabled under high security." Any clue what that means and how to fix?? Tks
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I can’t open the files. >Why do I get an error saying that the file is password protected? >I’m using OpenOffice.org1.0 and it should be compatible. >Are the files password protected or is this Microsoft’s way of enforcing the >use of their products only, to open the .xls file? >Sounds like a great spreadsheet. > I’ve only tested it with Microsoft Excel on Windows and Macintosh. I > can’t speak intelligently regarding the "OpenOffice.org1.0" product. > Sorry. The spreadsheet is receiving rave reviews from people who are > using MS Excel and are using the spreadsheet. > | (hotmail acct is spam catcher)
says… > I am using Excel 2000 and it will not open because the " Macros are Excel > version 4.0 and they cannot be signed or disabled under high security." Any > clue what that means and how to fix??
Under the macros submenu in tools menu(?) there is a security option. Is was part of one of the service packs I believe. You can set the security to Medium, and you’ll be prompted when you open the file. — Cam ‘89 RZ 350
Cam Penner – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The manual work-around for this rare scenario is covered if you just > point to the "Fuel Tank Is Filled In" cell on the "Settings and Stats" > page. But I agree with you that it would be more elegant to revise the > spreadsheet’s contents to account for change in this setting, and for > changes in the "Odometer Units" pop-up menu. > Thanks for the suggestion. >If you have ton(ne)s of time, you might want to look at cleaning things >up for those of us who don’t always fill the tank each time. There are >some serious spikes in the "per tank" milage. The overall average is >good. My car is showing "average l/100km" of 10ish, but high and low >tanks of 3 and 54 respectively. >And no – I don’t have a forumla for it.
No idea of how to address that one, but I did address the automatic changing of historical data if you change your odometer or your default unit of measure for filling fuel. It’ll show up in the next release. | (hotmail acct is spam catcher)
>I can’t open the files. >Why do I get an error saying that the file is password protected? >I’m using OpenOffice.org1.0 and it should be compatible. >Are the files password protected or is this Microsoft’s way of enforcing the >use of their products only, to open the .xls file? >Sounds like a great spreadsheet.
I’ve only tested it with Microsoft Excel on Windows and Macintosh. I can’t speak intelligently regarding the "OpenOffice.org1.0" product. Sorry. The spreadsheet is receiving rave reviews from people who are using MS Excel and are using the spreadsheet. | (hotmail acct is spam catcher)
Hello Cam, Cam Penner – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have created The Ultimate Fuel Logbook and Mileage Spreadsheet for > people who want to track their fuel consumption and determine the > fuel-efficiency of their vehicle. Due to popular demand, I have made > this spreadsheet available to interested parties (free, of course). >I’ve just been looking at it. It looks pretty good. >Something you might want to consider though. If you change the default >setting from litres to gallons, all of the historical info you have in >there is left. This leads to some whacked out calculations. >Perhaps if you automatically popluated the "override" columns with the >default units this could be avoided. >I’m going to try this out for a bit though. It looks nicer than what I >was using.
The manual work-around for this rare scenario is covered if you just point to the "Fuel Tank Is Filled In" cell on the "Settings and Stats" page. But I agree with you that it would be more elegant to revise the spreadsheet’s contents to account for change in this setting, and for changes in the "Odometer Units" pop-up menu. Thanks for the suggestion. | (hotmail acct is spam catcher)
I can’t open the files. Why do I get an error saying that the file is password protected? I’m using OpenOffice.org1.0 and it should be compatible. Are the files password protected or is this Microsoft’s way of enforcing the use of their products only, to open the .xls file? Sounds like a great spreadsheet. thanks
> I have created The Ultimate Fuel Logbook and Mileage Spreadsheet for > people who want to track their fuel consumption and determine the > fuel-efficiency of their vehicle. Due to popular demand, I have made > this spreadsheet available to interested parties (free, of course).
I’ve just been looking at it. It looks pretty good. Something you might want to consider though. If you change the default setting from litres to gallons, all of the historical info you have in there is left. This leads to some whacked out calculations. Perhaps if you automatically popluated the "override" columns with the default units this could be avoided. I’m going to try this out for a bit though. It looks nicer than what I was using. — Cam ‘89 RZ 350
Hello, I have created The Ultimate Fuel Logbook and Mileage Spreadsheet for people who want to track their fuel consumption and determine the fuel-efficiency of their vehicle. Due to popular demand, I have made this spreadsheet available to interested parties (free, of course). This world-class tool is intuitive, easily user-configurable using pop-up menus, and ultimately usable. This latest version also includes an impressive trend-recognition and forecasting system that was able to detect the increasing over-all fuel-efficiency of my motorcycle as it was being broken in, even though the fuel-efficiency per tank varied wildly over the measured period. The remainder of this document describes the spreadsheet and how you can download it. You need Microsoft Excel 95 or later on a PC, or Microsoft Excel 5.0 or later on a Macintosh. For best results, view this message using a monospace font such as courier. Fuel Log Features Enter fuel in: (User-selectable default + per-tank override) o Liters o US Gallons o Imperial Gallons Odometer measures: (user-selectable) o Miles o Kilometers Fuel Economy is measured in: (User-selectable) o Kilometers per Liter (Km/L) o Liters per 100 Kilometers (L/100 Km) o Miles per US Gallon (MPG US) o US Gallons consumed per 100 miles (US Gal/100 miles) o Miles per Imperial Gallon (MPG Imp) o Imperial Gallons consumed per 100 miles (Imp Gal/100 miles) Fuel Economy displayed: o Per tank o Best tank ever o Worst tank ever o 5-tank average o 10-tank weighted average o Average since day-1 Estimated Range on a tank of fuel shown: o Per tank o Best tank ever o Worst tank ever o 5-tank average o 10-tank weighted average o Average since day-1 Fuel Chart Features (i.e., drawn on a graph) o Fuel Economy per tank o Fuel Economy for 5-tank average o Fuel Economy for 10-tank weighted average o Fuel Economy Trend line to help you spot changes in fuel consumption due to alterations such as changing tires or oil. Lets you see increasing mileage as a new bike is broken in! Trend forecasts fuel economy 30 days into the future. Additional Features o Fill-up log book starts with 40 rows for data entry (for a small document). This is user-expandable up to Excel’s row limit. Just click a button for more data entry rows. o Enter comments, such as your tire or oil changes. This lets you try to correlate changes you make or other variables to changes in fuel economy trends. o Comment Viewer lets you view or print a copy of your comments only. Suitable for a narrative trip log. o Full error checking with instructions on what you need to do to correct the error. o Full Tool Tips (point to something and its function is described). o Chart automatically rescales to present your unique information in an appropriate form that is attractive and easy to understand. Getting your FREE Ultimate Fuel Logbook and Mileage Spreadsheet To download the latest spreadsheet: http://web.newsguy.com/steve-makohin/Bike/FuelLogbook/FuelLogbook.html You need Microsoft Excel 95 or later on a PC, or Microsoft Excel 5.0 or later on a Macintosh. | (hotmail acct is spam catcher)
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I get significant buffeting when ever I lower the read windows on my 2002 > Jeep Liberty. Does anyone know how to fix this?
I get significant buffeting when ever I lower the read windows on my 2002 Jeep Liberty. Does anyone know how to fix this?
I get significant buffeting when ever I lower the read windows on my 2002 Jeep Liberty. Does anyone know how to fix this?
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I get significant buffeting when ever I lower the read windows on my 2002 > Jeep Liberty. Does anyone know how to fix this?
The springs or what ever holds up the vinyl window is shot. The window what stay up. How do I fix it? Do I have to tear the window frame out? Thank you
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >They are easily replacable. Fold the window down, as you would for cleaning, >and >you will see the tension assembly. It is a long thing cylinder with a flat >"rod" >coming out the end that attaches to the bottom of the window. Take one out >and >take it to any store that sells windows so they can match it up for you. It’s >best to replace them both, even if only one side failed. You want them to be >the >same strength. >KB
your description is of a "constant force" balance system….there are a couple other systems also….a spiral balance which looks like a long twisted noodle type thing…and a spring balance which is just a long spring….but to the original poster, all the balances can be replaced…. Chris Perdue "Sometimes you’re the windshield, sometimes you’re the bug" http://hometown.aol.com/bugninva/MAINPAGE.html to reply take your PANTS off
Any ideas on how to fix a stuck window or to get it up manually? Previously I had this problem and after taking the door apart and checking everything the problem went away, but its back again after about a year absence .All connections seem tight and the lights dim with the up switch is activated. How can I "bump" the motor?
Hi, Don’t know if this is your problem, but it’s worth a try. Follow this link. http://groups.google.com/groups?q=tedk%40velocity.net+group:rec.autos… It helped me and two other guys. Ted nospamwaterskier_erie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Ok, here is my situation. I have one window that does not work. > Drivers side, back seat. Everything else works: locks, mirrors, other > windows. Neither switch that controls this window works either. I > have a new motor and it didnt work either. Put a volt meter on the > two leads, got nothing. No noise is made, no clicking, anything. > Heard something about a regulator but not sure where that > Any ideas on how to fix a stuck window or to get it up manually? Previously I > had this problem and after taking the door apart and checking everything the > problem went away, but its back again after about a year absence .All > connections seem tight and the lights dim with the up switch is activated. How > can I "bump" the motor?
Folks, In case you need to correct the same problem I had with my posts here’s what I did. I posted a follow up that appeared in *my* list as a new post instead of a thread to the original. Several attempts to make a follow up appear as a thread failed. I clicked on Options > General Preferences then clicked on the Message List tab. The check box next to Enable Threading by Subject was checked as it should have been. I don’t know why this procedure works but it often does. The procedure is – take it apart. Put it back together and try it. Lamps that won’t come on usually will, etc. In this case, I unchecked the box, shut down Agent, re-opened it, checked the box and voila!! I got threads. I don’t know why I stopped having threads in the first place but that’s how you fix it if yours does the same thing. gk remove numbers to email me.
cast > the following words into the void: > you have gremlins dude.
I have a resident gremlin that likes to turn on the "always display this window on top" when I access the chat room. After finding out how to fix it, by turning it off, it somehow gets turned on again mysteriously all by itself every so often. Spooky. Annette
The edge of the roof and overhang (what’s that called? Soffit?) above my bedroom are damaged, and there’s a rather attractive hole for squirrels. We’re planning on redo-ing the whole roof area either this fall or next spring, but till then, we have to live with the hole. We got some squirrels a few weeks ago, and my SO climbed into the crawlspace and cleaned out their nest, and blocked (or so he thought!) the opening with aluminum flashing. Squirrels came back, and they’ve apparently reproduced. Each morning, I’m awakened by thumps and scratching overhead as the squirrels play their daily game of tag, and they’ve even scratched holes through the ceiling tiles above my bed. (Squirrel voyeurs?) I don’t want suggestions on how to fix the roof right (since we’re not replacing it till later, we can just cover the hole with something ugly-but-functional till then), or suggestions on how to kill the squirrels. I’d just like to know when we can safely evict the squirrel family without the babies dying. Like, when are they old enough to survive being kicked out of their nest? Also, any tips on patching the hole from the inside of a crawlspace so the squirrels can’t get back in? (Patching from the outside isn’t an option at this point…there’s a large window beneath the hole, and none of our ladders are tall enough to reach above the window.) Thanks! Cina
> The edge of the roof and overhang (what’s that called? Soffit?) above > my bedroom are damaged, and there’s a rather attractive hole for > squirrels.
I think this is best left to our resident squirrel expert. Are you there Art?
Personally, if their in the attic I wouldn’t "wait" until the babies grow up or else you might end up replacing more than just a sofit.
I have a 92 Audi 100S and the window/sunroof relay has been replaced 3 times and its gone again. When it is faulty, it clicks like hell and will drain the battery. This is not a standard relay as it has lots of circuitry inside and what appears to be 3 relays. Not to mention Audi’s price of about $400. Has anyone out there had this problem or is it just a unique problem with my Audi. Does anyone know how to fix the relay? I love my Audi and it just hit 243,000 miles and still runs and looks like new. Any help would be greatly appreciated in resolving this matter.. Thanks in advance! Dennis
With that many miles have you checked to see if the wiring is broken or shorted in the door jams?
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 92 Audi 100S and the window/sunroof relay has been replaced 3 > times and its gone again. When it is faulty, it clicks like hell and > will drain the battery. This is not a standard relay as it has lots of > circuitry inside and what appears to be 3 relays. Not to mention Audi’s > price of about $400. Has anyone out there had this problem or is it just > a unique problem with my Audi. Does anyone know how to fix the relay? I > love my Audi and it just hit 243,000 miles and still runs and looks like > new. Any help would be greatly appreciated in resolving this matter.. > Thanks in advance! Dennis
>Any body here know how to fix defrost lines in the back window?
there are kits available at autozone, etc. but if it’s more than a spot or two you are screwed. I bought a nice 89 Accord Se-i once and it turns out that the majority of the back window had been covered in college/deadhead stickers that had been scraped off with a razor blade prior to resell. I only have the two lower lines of the rear defrost left that function. patch kit won’t help you in this case. buy some anti-fog stuff and apply it instead. You’ll have to scrape of any frozen stuff by hand if yours is like mine. Kevin
MacGyver would probably use a stick of chewing gum and his Swiss Army knife. Use the knife to cut a thin strip of the gum wrapper. Chew the gum to make it adhesive, then use the gum to stick the foil side of the strip of the wrapper to the window and bridge the gap in the broken defroster wire. Sorry, I couldn’t help myself… but the other posts here probably have a more feasible and attractive solution. -Marcus.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Any body here know how to fix defrost lines in the back window? > 94 CivicEX
They make a kit that you can fix the lines with. It’s easy. I fixed my accord a few years ago and it still works. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Any body here know how to fix defrost lines in the back window? >94 CivicEX
>Any body here know how to fix defrost lines in the back window?
Auto parts stores sell a conductive paint that does the job. You mask off the glass with masking tape, clean the ends of the lines and paint yourself a new conductive strip. And next time don’t use a frost scraper on the inside!:-)
Any body here know how to fix defrost lines in the back window? 94 CivicEX