– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >A friend gave me a hand to give my ‘96 3-series convertible a serious clean >out. >We had the back seat out, and he found a little red lever under the seat and >while pulling it says "what does this do?" >Only to find out that it was the manual override for the soft top. After >giving him a serious beating, we found that electrics for the soft top had >stopped functioning. >Now I would have though that BMW in their infinite wisdom would have made >this function reversible but no, it requires a trip to BMW to fix – surprise >surprise. >Anyone know how to fix it as I can’t get into the boot (trunk to you guys >across the pond!) and more importantly I can’t have the soft top open until >it is fixed. >Summer is coming… >Thanks!
Resetting the Convertible Top http://ebaines.home.att.net/converti.htm
I take it you are in the UK…So I phone this guy http://www.bmwandfiat.co.uk/ he knows everything there is to know about BMW’s I garantee you will get the answer…
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> A friend gave me a hand to give my ‘96 3-series convertible a serious clean > out. > We had the back seat out, and he found a little red lever under the seat and > while pulling it says "what does this do?" > Only to find out that it was the manual override for the soft top. After > giving him a serious beating, we found that electrics for the soft top had > stopped functioning. > Now I would have though that BMW in their infinite wisdom would have made > this function reversible but no, it requires a trip to BMW to fix – surprise > surprise. > Anyone know how to fix it as I can’t get into the boot (trunk to you guys > across the pond!) and more importantly I can’t have the soft top open until > it is fixed. > Summer is coming… > Thanks!
A friend gave me a hand to give my ‘96 3-series convertible a serious clean out. We had the back seat out, and he found a little red lever under the seat and while pulling it says "what does this do?" Only to find out that it was the manual override for the soft top. After giving him a serious beating, we found that electrics for the soft top had stopped functioning. Now I would have though that BMW in their infinite wisdom would have made this function reversible but no, it requires a trip to BMW to fix – surprise surprise. Anyone know how to fix it as I can’t get into the boot (trunk to you guys across the pond!) and more importantly I can’t have the soft top open until it is fixed. Summer is coming… Thanks!
Greg, Go to www.bruce.com They have a lifetime warrantee on their adhesives, if installed properly. If not, they may be able to help you with a repair. Also, this from their site: Contact us by phone: Technical Information Hotline at 1-800-722-4647 (or 214-887-2000 for faster response) and select option #1 for Bruce Hardwood Floors literature For Technical Assistance, select option #5 to speak to a customer service representative. Bob
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for replying. > The floors are the engineered wood floors. Basically what is happening is, > the planks have come lose from the glue, and lift up. When you are walking > on them and your foot comes off the plank they make a "pop" noise. > Thanks, > Greg Good > Be more specific. Were the floors laminate?? (assume so). Define ‘pop’. > Are > they buckling, raising straight up?? > > Hi, > > I had Bruce wood floors installed about 2 years ago. The floors are > > starting to pop. I think it was due to a lack of glue they used, but I > am > > unsure how to fix this. > > Any ideas? > > Thanks, > > Greg Good
Hi, Wondering it had enough room for expansion? You can’t install it tight wall to wall. Tony – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, > I had Bruce wood floors installed about 2 years ago. The floors are > starting to pop. I think it was due to a lack of glue they used, but I am > unsure how to fix this. > Any ideas? > Thanks, > Greg Good
Hi, I had Bruce wood floors installed about 2 years ago. The floors are starting to pop. I think it was due to a lack of glue they used, but I am unsure how to fix this. Any ideas? Thanks, Greg Good
Be more specific. Were the floors laminate?? (assume so). Define ‘pop’. Are they buckling, raising straight up??
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > I had Bruce wood floors installed about 2 years ago. The floors are > starting to pop. I think it was due to a lack of glue they used, but I am > unsure how to fix this. > Any ideas? > Thanks, > Greg Good
Thanks for replying. The floors are the engineered wood floors. Basically what is happening is, the planks have come lose from the glue, and lift up. When you are walking on them and your foot comes off the plank they make a "pop" noise. Thanks, Greg Good
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Be more specific. Were the floors laminate?? (assume so). Define ‘pop’. Are > they buckling, raising straight up?? > Hi, > I had Bruce wood floors installed about 2 years ago. The floors are > starting to pop. I think it was due to a lack of glue they used, but I am > unsure how to fix this. > Any ideas? > Thanks, > Greg Good
Check to make sure that the starter bendix is the right one for the tooth count on your flywheel I think they made two different flywheels for those trucks
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i have a 76 chevy 4×4. when i brought it the starter was messed up. i change > flywheel and starter nose cone etc. it this grinds when turning the engine > over.
Dean, You are right. There are many folks who are ignorant or won’t have the right tools to do the job. There are those, also, who will work until no end if they could only be guided on how to fix a problem they may not know much about. Exactly the reason we always keep a couple dozen shims for GM starters around of assorted thicknesses. People here are asking for advice, not judgement. The fact still remains, though, that there was an issue with some of the older starters that could be solved by grinding the nose in a certain way – not sure if it was the only fix, but it was a sure one. All the shims in the world wouldn’t have fixed mine, but 10 minutes with a file is what I was told it took to never have trouble again. I wish I knew how to say to do so, but as I stated, I wasn’t the one who did mine. I am not sure of the root of the problem with mine, but after it was ground a bit, I never had trouble again. Snowman
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Snowman, > GM makes a great starter/flywheel combination. The shim requirement is > due to block and starter selective fit size variations. Shimming to get > a good fit on gear sets is very common, look inside any differential, > for example. The problem lies when someone thinks they know more than > the guys who design these things, or are too ignorant/lazy to get the > right parts and shim them correctly. > Dean >there is a certain way to grind the nose on those older ones. I had the >same thing on a ‘78 3/4 ton I had. At the time, my dad knew how to grind it >to make it fit correctly, but I can’t tell you how. I am sure someone in >this group can describe how to do so because it was explained to him over a >phone call. >GM cannot make a good flywheel/starter combination for some reason – that is >the reason we have assorted shim thicknesses. >Snowman >>i have a 76 chevy 4×4. when i brought it the starter was messed up. i >change >>flywheel and starter nose cone etc. it this grinds when turning the engine >>over.
Snowman, GM makes a great starter/flywheel combination. The shim requirement is due to block and starter selective fit size variations. Shimming to get a good fit on gear sets is very common, look inside any differential, for example. The problem lies when someone thinks they know more than the guys who design these things, or are too ignorant/lazy to get the right parts and shim them correctly. Dean – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >there is a certain way to grind the nose on those older ones. I had the >same thing on a ‘78 3/4 ton I had. At the time, my dad knew how to grind it >to make it fit correctly, but I can’t tell you how. I am sure someone in >this group can describe how to do so because it was explained to him over a >phone call. >GM cannot make a good flywheel/starter combination for some reason – that is >the reason we have assorted shim thicknesses. >Snowman >i have a 76 chevy 4×4. when i brought it the starter was messed up. i >change >flywheel and starter nose cone etc. it this grinds when turning the engine >over.
Like Tony said, the starter MUST be properly shimmed. But, given that you changed the flywheels and starter…did you know that there are two flywheels… a 153 tooth and a 168 tooth. The starter must be the right one to match the tooth count on the flywheel or must be one of the universal type that will work with either. Dean – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >i have a 76 chevy 4×4. when i brought it the starter was messed up. i change >flywheel and starter nose cone etc. it this grinds when turning the engine >over.
there is a certain way to grind the nose on those older ones. I had the same thing on a ‘78 3/4 ton I had. At the time, my dad knew how to grind it to make it fit correctly, but I can’t tell you how. I am sure someone in this group can describe how to do so because it was explained to him over a phone call. GM cannot make a good flywheel/starter combination for some reason – that is the reason we have assorted shim thicknesses. Snowman
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i have a 76 chevy 4×4. when i brought it the starter was messed up. i change > flywheel and starter nose cone etc. it this grinds when turning the engine > over.
i have a 76 chevy 4×4. when i brought it the starter was messed up. i change flywheel and starter nose cone etc. it this grinds when turning the engine over.
>i have a 76 chevy 4×4. when i brought it the starter was messed up. i change >flywheel and starter nose cone etc. it this grinds when turning the engine >over.
Did you shim the starter? They come with a shim kit and instructions how to do it. Either that, or your flywheel may be the wrong one… why did you replace it? Was it cracked or stripped? Tony Kimmell Normal, IL
I apologize upfront for my lack of extensive knowledge, compared to the amp guru’s in the forum, I’ve had a close friend dump the amp on me in a bit of a panic to make it reliable to use live, on a tour starting in a few days, we’re in the studio, miles from a tech, with too extensive a recording schedule to search one out, I used to dabble and electrocute myself in 450 v instalments until I stopped that nonsense, so, armed with A multi-meter, a soldering Iron, and the kind input from this newsgroup, I feel we can tackle this ! The Amp 70’s silverface super reverb w/ master volume. The master volume circuit has been removed Channel 1 has been removed Negative feedback loop has been removed Phase inverter coupler Cap has been changed to .001 The amp has run, on the road, fairly solid for the last 6 or so years, a few interesting things done to channel 1, and removed in that time. About 3 months ago, the amp died, nothing
Are there any particular sites or newsgroups that are frequented by professional GM Dealership Technicians?? I am interested in doing some on-line research on a new technology project for dealerships. thanks Frank Burrows
Professionals at GM dealers? You’ve got to be kidding — You Know Who~ "Never trust the advice of a man in difficulties." Aesop (6th Century B.C.), Email Help at http://home.att.net/~You_Know_Who/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Are there any particular sites or newsgroups that are frequented by > professional GM Dealership Technicians?? > I am interested in doing some on-line research on a new technology project > for dealerships. > thanks > Frank Burrows
As a GM Professional Service Consultant with Cadillac, I can say sometimes we fix em’ sometimes we don’t. Most of the time we are fixing customers rather than cars. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Dear You_Know_Who: > The professional techs at GM people are the ones that fix the cars that > everybody else sends there. Have you ever heard of a dealership shop telling > a customer "to take it to the Jiffy Lube, independent garage, or whatever" > No wonder you don’t use your real name. > Frank Burrows > Professionals at GM dealers? You’ve got to be kidding > — > You Know Who~ > "Never trust the advice of a man in difficulties." > Aesop (6th Century B.C.), > Email Help at http://home.att.net/~You_Know_Who/ > > Are there any particular sites or newsgroups that are frequented by > > professional GM Dealership Technicians?? > > I am interested in doing some on-line research on a new technology > project > > for dealerships. > > thanks > > Frank Burrows
> As a GM Professional Service Consultant with Cadillac, I can say sometimes we > fix em’ sometimes we don’t. Most of the time we are fixing customers rather > than cars.
That would be tightening the loose nuts behind the wheel? — Ted Melina Raab, Legislative Director Texas State Employees Union, CWA Local 6186/AFL-CIO 2700 S 1st St. Austin, TX 78704 voice: 512/448-4225 fax: 512/448-4224 –Unions work for all of us–
> Dear You_Know_Who: > The professional techs at GM people are the ones that fix the cars that > everybody else sends there. Have you ever heard of a dealership shop telling > a customer "to take it to the Jiffy Lube, independent garage, or whatever" > No wonder you don’t use your real name. > Frank Burrows
As an owner of an independent garage I would say, yes. I’ve repaired many a vehicle the dealers techs couldn’t repair. Not just GM’s either. I never tell people to take it to the dealer. Most dealerships hire incompetent, overpaid, parts changers. A dealer will sell you a $900.00 carburetor before he’ll sell you a $21.00 choke pull off because his tech couldn’t figure out what was wrong (one of many true stories). Or maybe it’s because he’s a lying jerk that rips people off either way it’s wrong and commonplace practice at dealerships. My real name is Roger Mauck – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Professionals at GM dealers? You’ve got to be kidding > — > You Know Who~ > "Never trust the advice of a man in difficulties." > Aesop (6th Century B.C.), > Email Help at http://home.att.net/~You_Know_Who/ > > Are there any particular sites or newsgroups that are frequented by > > professional GM Dealership Technicians?? > > I am interested in doing some on-line research on a new technology > project > > for dealerships. > > thanks > > Frank Burrows
I receive an average of 5 calls a day from "independent" jerks like you,who can’t fix a damn thing…I wonder…
My husband recieves call upon calls where people have taken their cars to people who own their own shop . They screw up thier car and come to us because half the time the car wont even start. Yes sometimes there are some real idiots who claim to know what their doing, BUT then there are the ones who go to classes and really care about the customer and thier car. Who spend more time after hours because the Private shop owner Says "I cant fix it ,Take it to your dealer." You may do a wonderful job, But dont run down People who you know NOTHING about.
> I receive an average of 5 calls a day from "independent" jerks like > you,who can’t fix a damn thing…I wonder…
So you know your shit huh? Why are you answering the phone? As an independent I don’t find that I have a lot of time for answering the phone. Also as an independent I have to know how to fix all makes and models. I have to purchase repair information for all makes and models. I would never, ever call a dealership to ask how to fix something. I would not expect any help even though for there particular brand, repair information is readily available to them. I made a mistake by lumping all dealership techs in the same basket, But if you really work in a dealership then you know the bozo’s I’m talking about. That is if you’re not one of them. If you’re not then I am sorry for the insult. Also if you’re not then you’ve done your share of repairing the mistakes that the incompetent ones have made. Generally speaking I can repair anything. So don’t wonder about my abilities. I am one of those that takes the time to learn systems and proper repair procedures. Are you? Roger
> My husband recieves call upon calls where people have taken their cars > to people who own their own shop . They screw up thier car and come to > us because half the time the car wont even start. Yes sometimes there > are some real idiots who claim to know what their doing, BUT then there > are the ones who go to classes and really care about the customer and > thier car. Who spend more time after hours because > the Private shop owner Says "I cant fix it ,Take it to your dealer." > You may do a wonderful job, But dont run down People who you know > NOTHING about.
You are absolutely right. I do go to the trouble. That’s why I made the comments I made. The only time I have ever said "take it to your dealer" is because I researched the problem and found it to be a recall or a warranty item. I will tell you this too. I was born at night but it wasn’t *last night*. If your husband really works at a dealership then I doubt he gets any calls to repair things. I don’t know of a dealership anywhere that allows the techs to answer the phone or offer free repair information on the phone to competitors. Repairing automobiles is a commodity. Dealerships are more prone to protect that commodity than anyone else in the industry. If your husband is the great tech you say he is then the last thing he has time for is to talk on the phone to people that haven’t a clue what they’re doing. Now ma’am are the dishes done? Roger
i just bought a 60 watt marshall amp… when i turn the volume up past "4" and i have it on the overdrive channel with the gain turned up i get TONS of very high pitched constant feedback. the only way i can get it to stop is to turn the tone all the way down on my guitar ( which is an epiphone SG) when problem please tell me. Joel
It might be that you pickup’s are microphonic, if you put them close to your mouth and talk and you can hear it through your amp then get new pickup’s or get them wax dipped. Harold.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i just bought a 60 watt marshall amp… when i turn the volume up past "4" > and i have it on the overdrive channel with the gain turned up i get TONS of > very high pitched constant feedback. the only way i can get it to stop is to > turn the tone all the way down on my guitar ( which is an epiphone SG) when this > problem please tell me. > Joel
Sounds like microphonic pickup feedback to me, too… Does it go away when you get the axe far enough away from the amp? If so, it’s the guitar, else your tubes (or even a cheap guitar cord) could be microphonic and feeding back. Are you talking serious volume and gain? if so, that’s just a natural deal and you’ve got to get the guitar away fom the amp (or get better pickups, or less gain or volume. eq tweaking can sometimes take that out, too)…Most likely a pu not intended for blitz volume & gain. http://community.webtv.net/ErikAZ/BDsCorner
I have a Crate GX-212+ amp, 120watts, 2 12 inch speakers. I am having a problem with my input jack. It only works, when I plug the cord about 1/2 way into it. When I turn the amp up loud, it rattles the jack, and quits working. When I have the cable completely unplugged, there is a loud squeal on the distortion channel. Anyone have an idea how to fix this? Would I be able to do it myself, or have to take it to a tech? Any info would be appreciated.
> I have a Crate GX-212+ amp, 120watts, 2 12 inch speakers. > I am having a problem with my input jack. It only works, when I plug the > cord about 1/2 way into it. When I turn the amp up loud, it rattles the > jack, and quits working. When I have the cable completely unplugged, there > is a loud squeal on the distortion channel. > Anyone have an idea how to fix this? Would I be able to do it myself, or > have to take it to a tech? Any info would be appreciated.
You need to order a new jack from St. Louis Music and install that..Let me know if you can’t find the phone #…. Cordials Dr. Stereo Join us at http://www.firebottle.com/ampage/chat/ for discussion at HIGH NOON
Well, it’s offical.. Seems for some odd reason, the headphone jack no longer functions on my amp. Tried two different headphones (one of which I know for a fact works) and nada, zip. When plugged in, it still shuts off the main speaker (which it should) but it doesn’t send out any signal.. Any clue as to what might be wrong, and how to fix it? Aside from dishing out $$$ to the ma-and-pa music store in this town? Thanks; Jason.
>Well, it’s offical.. Seems for some odd reason, the headphone jack no >longer functions on my amp. Tried two different headphones (one of >which I know for a fact works) and nada, zip. When plugged in, it >still shuts off the main speaker (which it should) but it doesn’t send >out any signal.. >Any clue as to what might be wrong, and how to fix it? Aside from >dishing out $$$ to the ma-and-pa music store in this town? >Thanks; >Jason.
Sounds like a bad headphone jack to me or broken wiring. Regards, Jeff
Another question about my Fender Princeton Chrous Amp. It is kinda old, like 3 yeras. It has a buzzing sound that is increased when I turn the Presence on. Is this something coming from the speakers or the internals of the amp? Actually I want to know how to fix this, I’m assuming its coming from the internals because it also buzzes when I plug in headphones. And it does this with both of my guitars. So i KNOW it is the amp. -Chad. ps. is this a common problem? —
> Another question about my Fender Princeton Chrous Amp. It is kinda > old, like 3 yeras. It has a buzzing sound that is increased when > I turn the Presence on. Is this something coming from the speakers > or the internals of the amp? [snip]
Twice in the last month I have encountered a nasty buzz in my Boogie DC-3. In both cases it turned out to be a bad cable, once from the guitar and the other time from a footswitch. Give it a try.