Bill, I suspect one of the famous ’spinning in agitate’ problems GE has, but need your model # to be more intelligent on the issue. This is a common complaint with GE’s ’Profile’ washers. Email it to us when you get a chance, and we’ll have a ‘look’. God bless, Dave Harnish Dave’s Repair Service New Albany, PA Our Free Monthly Appliance Tips Newsletter: Acts 4:12
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 5yr old washer that leaks when run on the normal/fast cycle. > It does not leak on the gentle cycle. The hoses go into the wall > directly behind it and the puddle forms in my daughters room, which is > directly behind the washer. > I am hoping someone here has a clue on what is going on and how to fix > it. If you need more info I will gladly tell you, once I find the > owners manual 
. > Thanks in advance > Bill
> > I have a 5yr old washer that leaks when run on the normal/fast cycle. > It does not leak on the gentle cycle. The hoses go into the wall > directly behind it and the puddle forms in my daughters room, which is > directly behind the washer. > I am hoping someone here has a clue on what is going on and how to fix > it. If you need more info I will gladly tell you, once I find the > owners manual . > Thanks in advance > Bill
Hi, No model# posted but a common way to "access" a 5 year old GE washer so you can have a peek… http://www.applianceaid.com/genew.html#new_access http://www.applianceaid.com/model.html Model# helps. Common leaking trouble makers for an approx 5 year old GE washer… http://www.applianceaid.com/genew.html#common jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com/
I have a 5yr old washer that leaks when run on the normal/fast cycle. It does not leak on the gentle cycle. The hoses go into the wall directly behind it and the puddle forms in my daughters room, which is directly behind the washer. I am hoping someone here has a clue on what is going on and how to fix it. If you need more info I will gladly tell you, once I find the owners manual . Thanks in advance Bill
>The problem isn’t necessarily the hydrant. You may have a broken pipe or >fitting: if there isn’t any water getting to the hydrant, you aren’t going to >get any out of it either. Your first step is to check the yard for any >unusual >wet spots, which would indicate an underground leak. >If there is no leak, your best bet IMO is to replace, rather than repair, the >hydrant. They aren’t very expensive (not at farm supply stores, anyway). >– >Regards, > Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Thanks Doug. I will have to check around and see if I can find a wet spot. Randy http://members.aol.com/rsmeiner
>I could make up an answer, but look on the manufacturer’s website and send >your question there by email.
Now gee, why didn’t think of that. Wait, I did. Awaiting a response from them. But thanks anyway. Randy http://members.aol.com/rsmeiner
I could make up an answer, but look on the manufacturer’s website and send your question there by email.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have an older Merrill AnyFlow yard hydrant. > It worked great all weekend but today there isn’t even a > trickle coming out of it. The pumps good as it uses the > same pump as our house. It’s not frozen as we are in the > high 80’s. > Any ideas on what broke and how to fix it ? > Or even who I should call ? > Randy > http://members.aol.com/rsmeiner
>I have an older Merrill AnyFlow yard hydrant. >It worked great all weekend but today there isn’t even a >trickle coming out of it. The pumps good as it uses the >same pump as our house. It’s not frozen as we are in the >high 80’s. >Any ideas on what broke and how to fix it ? >Or even who I should call ?
The problem isn’t necessarily the hydrant. You may have a broken pipe or fitting: if there isn’t any water getting to the hydrant, you aren’t going to get any out of it either. Your first step is to check the yard for any unusual wet spots, which would indicate an underground leak. If there is no leak, your best bet IMO is to replace, rather than repair, the hydrant. They aren’t very expensive (not at farm supply stores, anyway). — Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com) Save the baby humans – stop partial-birth abortion NOW
I have an older Merrill AnyFlow yard hydrant. It worked great all weekend but today there isn’t even a trickle coming out of it. The pumps good as it uses the same pump as our house. It’s not frozen as we are in the high 80’s. Any ideas on what broke and how to fix it ? Or even who I should call ? Randy http://members.aol.com/rsmeiner
I would appreciate advice on fixing a leak at the joint of plastic piping (I believe PCV). Jared Radin
*** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com *** Best to just re-roll the shit dude. —–= Posted via Newsfeed.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeed.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== 100,000 Groups! – 19 Servers! – Unlimited Download! =—–
<< I would appreciate advice on fixing a leak at the joint of plastic piping (I believe PCV). >> Check the recent archives on this topic. There were quite a few really good ideas for dealing with this common problem. Don’t be surprised if you get scolded for not looking there first. The fix is not at all hard to do as you will discover. Good luck. Joe
> I would appreciate advice on fixing a leak at the joint of plastic > piping (I believe PCV). > Jared Radin
Glued or screwed? — Jack
"Jared while relapsing" wrote > I would appreciate advice on fixing a leak in my joint.
try re-licking the paper or double roll it. it will still smoke just fine.
>I would appreciate advice on fixing a leak at the joint of plastic >piping (I believe PCV).
Leaks are a royal pain. You didn’t say if it was an elbow/coupling/tee. You could cut the joint out with a hacksaw and replace it, properly sealing it this time around.
The problem isn’t simple. When you hear people say to cut away the pipe and just relay it, they aren’t kidding. PVC joints are actually melded (melted) together. Most PVC joints aren’t something you can just unscrew and replace. PVC is actually really easy to work with though. Talk to the guy in the home improvement store. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I would appreciate advice on fixing a leak at the joint of plastic >piping (I believe PCV). >Jared Radin
>>"TDuffy1770" wrote >> Why in the world would you want to fix it yourself when the machine is >> brand new? What are you saving by waiting? For God sakes call >> the repair service and get them out to fix it. It should be under >> warranty, isn’t it? >You are correct if it is broken. If, however, the guy is not using the >machine properly he will have to pay for a service call. See my post >regarding the detergent. >If the thing is leaking, there is something wrong. > The machine is new, it shouldn’t leak, period!
Sorry but you’ll have to get with the times. I think the following link explains it? http://ng.appliance411.com/purchase/warranty.shtml Dan O. – Appliance411.com http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Maytag+dishwasher =
I just purchased a house and notice cracks in the grout of the master shower stall. There was a leak beneath the shower immediately before the purchase (and we favorably resolved that issue at closing), and I don’t know where the leak originates. Regardless, I assume that cracked grout around marble tiles in the shower floor is not a good thing. Any suggestions on how to fix it? Is this a job for a professional or something I can do myself (have done basic tile work, including marble, but not very experienced with grout). I am in the north suburbs of Chicago, if people can recommend a professional to do this. Thanks in advance. Ross
>I just purchased a house and notice cracks in the grout of the master >shower stall. There was a leak beneath the shower immediately before >the purchase (and we favorably resolved that issue at closing), and I >don’t know where the leak originates.
Then how the hell you know it’s resolved? for all you know they siliconed the crap outa the joints? >Regardless, I assume that >cracked grout around marble tiles in the shower floor is not a good >thing. Any suggestions on how to fix it?
Sanded or unsanded? Dig out the old crap, Regrout it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Is this a job for a >professional or something I can do myself (have done basic tile work, >including marble, but not very experienced with grout). >I am in the north suburbs of Chicago, if people can recommend a >professional to do this. >Thanks in advance. >Ross
I checked everything with all the vacuum hoses and found no leak anywhere. What else could it be?? Is it possibly the climate controler under the radio?? Or is it something else?? I just can’t find anything
I figured out how to fix it in case someone else has this problem. There was no leak anywhere in the lines so I decided to put a bypass valve between the two lines that connect under the hood that goes under the air box hose. I now have no problems. Just that I would pass on the good info.
Try reversing the vacuum line connections on the valve. I had only de-misters and changed the pipes over and now everything works beautifully. They just pull off and there are no markings for in/out.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I figured out how to fix it in case someone else has this problem. > There was no leak anywhere in the lines so I decided to put a bypass > valve between the two lines that connect under the hood that goes > under the air box hose. I now have no problems. Just that I would pass > on the good info.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> IMO with a single line shallow well jet pump, any check valve (and it > depends on what kind is used; swing or pressure operated) should be on > the tank side of the pump but… I’ve replaced many jet pumps of both > types and here (PA) I’ve only seen a rare few with a check valve of any > kind; to me they aren’t needed. I’ve also never seen a jet pump without > a foot valve. > The check valve is between the well and the pump – not on the house > side of the pump. IOW: > well —->checkvalve —->pump —->kitchen faucets, hot water heater, > bathroom fauctes, etc. There are also shutoff valves on either side > of the pump, so maybe a better picture is:
That is okay and not a problem. The water from the tanks helps the pump open it if it’s a pressure type. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> well —->checkvalve –>shutoff–>pump–>shutoff—->kitchen faucets, > hot water heater, bathroom fauctes, etc. > > The well is an artesian well – we share with another family but we use > > the house mostly in the winter and they are gone all winter. There’s > > never been a water problem before, but I also haven’t checked the > > water level in the well tanks lately… > Another curve…. the proper description of an artesian well is any well > that overflows the top of the casing on to the surface of the ground. > And if that’s the case then that’s why there’s no foot valve and how > your system works without one. That’s how the pipe stays full without a > foot valve. If so you need to see if the water level in the well is > still overflowing or below the top of the casing, which I suspect it > isn’t. That overflow would keep the line to the pump full of water and > more than likely allow that check valve to work (if it’s before the > pump). You haven’t said if your area is involved with any drought. Ask > the other family if they’re having any problems and if so, what. > The well has two 2000 gallon tanks, one on top of each other. > Whenever we’ve looked, the top tank is at least half full (except when > the pipe broke a couple years ago and we were running water down the > line to try and figure out where the break was…) I haven’t checked > recently though. There is a hole in the bottom of the top tank and in > the top of the bottom tank. Kind of like two drums sitting on top of > each other…The black line that drops down into the tanks is, if I > recall, long enough to drop into the lower tank. The house is in the > southern tier of NY, so there is some water concern but even in dry > periods before we’ve had plenty of water. It just keeps bubbling up > from the ground, kind of like the Beverly Hillbillies and their oil!
That’s a lot of water for two families. I’m starting to rethink the leak on the well side and leaning more toward the house side. Food coloring in the toilet tanks and none showing up in the bowl and the water level in the tank about an inch below the overflow tube would prove no leaks… > But I still don’t understand, unless the shutoff valve and the check > valve between the pump and the well are both bad, why when I close > both shutoff valves I still lose pressure. I don’t think it’s a break > in the line – wouldn’t I start to see silt in the water if that were > the case? When we had the break before, it took forever to get all > the silt that ended up in the line washed out. But if the check valve > is okay, even a break in the line wouldn’t cause this, would it? > Because wouldn’t the check valve hold the pressure to the pump, even > if there was a leak somewhere between the well and the check valve?
The shut off would be there in case you need to replace the pump etc.. The check I don’t know. > Thanks for the continued help on this! Where were you a couple years > ago when I had all the other problems lol!! > Alison
You’re welcome.
> IMO with a single line shallow well jet pump, any check valve (and it > depends on what kind is used; swing or pressure operated) should be on > the tank side of the pump but… I’ve replaced many jet pumps of both > types and here (PA) I’ve only seen a rare few with a check valve of any > kind; to me they aren’t needed. I’ve also never seen a jet pump without > a foot valve.
The check valve is between the well and the pump – not on the house side of the pump. IOW: well —->checkvalve —->pump —->kitchen faucets, hot water heater, bathroom fauctes, etc. There are also shutoff valves on either side of the pump, so maybe a better picture is: well —->checkvalve –>shutoff–>pump–>shutoff—->kitchen faucets, hot water heater, bathroom fauctes, etc. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The well is an artesian well – we share with another family but we use > the house mostly in the winter and they are gone all winter. There’s > never been a water problem before, but I also haven’t checked the > water level in the well tanks lately… > Another curve…. the proper description of an artesian well is any well > that overflows the top of the casing on to the surface of the ground. > And if that’s the case then that’s why there’s no foot valve and how > your system works without one. That’s how the pipe stays full without a > foot valve. If so you need to see if the water level in the well is > still overflowing or below the top of the casing, which I suspect it > isn’t. That overflow would keep the line to the pump full of water and > more than likely allow that check valve to work (if it’s before the > pump). You haven’t said if your area is involved with any drought. Ask > the other family if they’re having any problems and if so, what.
The well has two 2000 gallon tanks, one on top of each other. Whenever we’ve looked, the top tank is at least half full (except when the pipe broke a couple years ago and we were running water down the line to try and figure out where the break was…) I haven’t checked recently though. There is a hole in the bottom of the top tank and in the top of the bottom tank. Kind of like two drums sitting on top of each other…The black line that drops down into the tanks is, if I recall, long enough to drop into the lower tank. The house is in the southern tier of NY, so there is some water concern but even in dry periods before we’ve had plenty of water. It just keeps bubbling up from the ground, kind of like the Beverly Hillbillies and their oil! But I still don’t understand, unless the shutoff valve and the check valve between the pump and the well are both bad, why when I close both shutoff valves I still lose pressure. I don’t think it’s a break in the line – wouldn’t I start to see silt in the water if that were the case? When we had the break before, it took forever to get all the silt that ended up in the line washed out. But if the check valve is okay, even a break in the line wouldn’t cause this, would it? Because wouldn’t the check valve hold the pressure to the pump, even if there was a leak somewhere between the well and the check valve? Thanks for the continued help on this! Where were you a couple years ago when I had all the other problems lol!! Alison
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I agree with Terry. Had an older water tank that you had to drain every few > years as there was no bladder and the head would eventually bleed into the > water (after all air is composed of Oxygen and Hydrogen, as well as some > other gases) and eventually lead to the pump kicking on in order to supply > pressure. > Another suggestion – have you checked the venturi(sp?) on the pump to make > sure there is not an obstruction?
She is losing pressure at the pump that is between shut off valves on each side of the pump. The pump loses pressure (water) and runs with those valves shut…. where’s the pressure (water) going? Where’s the water coming from to enable the pump to shut off after it starts to run? That kinda proves to me that the inlet shut off valve isn’t shut off (or is leaking) IMO, and that the check valve is bust or she wouldn’t be losing pressure to cause the pump to run and then get water thru the shut off inlet valve. She doesn’t have a short cycling problem as you and someone else had, she has a constant run (constant pressure) pump setup and no foot valve in the well. You had a foot valve and a tank that prevented constant pump running or, more appropriate, a constant pressure setup. Gary Quality Water Associates
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Now there’s a curve in there, the well being uphill from the pump. I > suspect they are relying on gravity caused suction to lift the water out > of the well and hold the water in the line when the pump shuts off. That > explains how it can work without a foot valve in the well. With the > check valve between the well and pump, water is not allowed to go back > toward the well. Unless the shut off valve to the house is leaking and > as you say you can’t find a leak in the house, so to me the problem is > on the well side of things. and the check valve and shut off valve both > have to be leaking back > With both valves plus a check valve fully closed and a loss of pressure > occurring with the pr. gauge on the pump …. I suspect your shut off > valve on the inlet line and the check valve too is leaking. If there is > less water in the well now than before, that could be a factor. If you > are on the East Coast you probably are involved in the drought, and > possibly acidic water. Acidic water causes problems with metal valves > (seats) and washer seal screws and 20 years is a long time for metal > shut off valves in acidic water. They don’t shut off fully when you need > them to and you don’t know that until you need them to shut off; like > now.
This makes a lot of sense. I’ve had to replace the kitchen faucets and bathroom faucets because of the buildup from the water. Just recently I also replaced the tub spout as the shower diverter was all gunked up and half the water was staying in the tub, rather than feeding the shower… So, now to replace the check valve, and possibly install a foot valve. Do I need (or want) both check and foot? How difficult is it to add a foot valve to the line? I don’t really use the valve between the check valve and the pump that much. If we turn the water off to prevent freezing, I shut off the valve after the pump, open the valves to the faucets and open the faucets in the house. The valve after the pump seems okay, as we don’t get water, other than the little bit of dripping from what is in the lines and once that is cleared, there’s nothing. The well is an artesian well – we share with another family but we use the house mostly in the winter and they are gone all winter. There’s never been a water problem before, but I also haven’t checked the water level in the well tanks lately… Looks like I have a project to work on this spring when we go back! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Gary > Quality Water Associates
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Now there’s a curve in there, the well being uphill from the pump. I > suspect they are relying on gravity caused suction to lift the water out > of the well and hold the water in the line when the pump shuts off. That > explains how it can work without a foot valve in the well. With the > check valve between the well and pump, water is not allowed to go back > toward the well. Unless the shut off valve to the house is leaking and > as you say you can’t find a leak in the house, so to me the problem is > on the well side of things. and the check valve and shut off valve both > have to be leaking back > With both valves plus a check valve fully closed and a loss of pressure > occurring with the pr. gauge on the pump …. I suspect your shut off > valve on the inlet line and the check valve too is leaking. If there is > less water in the well now than before, that could be a factor. If you > are on the East Coast you probably are involved in the drought, and > possibly acidic water. Acidic water causes problems with metal valves > (seats) and washer seal screws and 20 years is a long time for metal > shut off valves in acidic water. They don’t shut off fully when you need > them to and you don’t know that until you need them to shut off; like > now. > This makes a lot of sense. I’ve had to replace the kitchen faucets > and bathroom faucets because of the buildup from the water. Just > recently I also replaced the tub spout as the shower diverter was all > gunked up and half the water was staying in the tub, rather than > feeding the shower…
Acidic water doesn’t necessarilly cause any type of buildup, but hard water does and it sounds like hard water scale. Only a water analysis can tell for sure. There are other causes of scale too. > So, now to replace the check valve, and possibly install a foot valve. > Do I need (or want) both check and foot? How difficult is it to add > a foot valve to the line? I don’t really use the valve between the > check valve and the pump that much. If we turn the water off to > prevent freezing, I shut off the valve after the pump, open the valves > to the faucets and open the faucets in the house. The valve after the > pump seems okay, as we don’t get water, other than the little bit of > dripping from what is in the lines and once that is cleared, there’s > nothing.
IMO with a single line shallow well jet pump, any check valve (and it depends on what kind is used; swing or pressure operated) should be on the tank side of the pump but… I’ve replaced many jet pumps of both types and here (PA) I’ve only seen a rare few with a check valve of any kind; to me they aren’t needed. I’ve also never seen a jet pump without a foot valve. > The well is an artesian well – we share with another family but we use > the house mostly in the winter and they are gone all winter. There’s > never been a water problem before, but I also haven’t checked the > water level in the well tanks lately…
Another curve…. the proper description of an artesian well is any well that overflows the top of the casing on to the surface of the ground. And if that’s the case then that’s why there’s no foot valve and how your system works without one. That’s how the pipe stays full without a foot valve. If so you need to see if the water level in the well is still overflowing or below the top of the casing, which I suspect it isn’t. That overflow would keep the line to the pump full of water and more than likely allow that check valve to work (if it’s before the pump). You haven’t said if your area is involved with any drought. Ask the other family if they’re having any problems and if so, what. Lotsa curves here… lol "water level in the well tanks"… what tanks, a cistern? If so look for a blockage into your tank or in the pipe to your pump. Make sure the other family’s water use isn’t ‘robbing’ water from you or your tank. Details… details… we’ll get this all straight soon. lol > Looks like I have a project to work on this spring when we go back!
Gary Quality Water Associates – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Gary > Quality Water Associates
Hi, I have a vacation home that gets water from a well using a Jet Pump (made by Goulds Pumps). I’ve noticed it seems to be running more frequently than in the past, and sometimes will run for several cycles even though I haven’t had any water on. I’ve checked for leaks and don’t find any. Just for fun, I closed the valves on either side – the valve on the main coming into the house from the well, and the one just after the pump that allows the water into the rest of the house. After a couple minutes, the pump came on, trying to rebuild the water pressure (or head, as I’ve read here that it should properly be called). Obviously, since the valve on the main was closed, no water made it in from the well. The only thing I can think of is that the pressure tank that sits on top of the pump (this big red thing that looks like a little propane tank) has a leak? Either that or somewhere in the pump housing itself there is a leak? How would I go about determining if it’s in the pump housing or the pressure tank? And, is a pressure tank something I could get at any plumbing supply store or is it going to be something I have to special order? Just as another note of background, the pump itself is only about three years old. We had a pipe break outside the house, and the old pump burned out (we weren’t at the house when the pipe broke so didn’t know.) The pressure tank is the one that came with the original pump, and would be about 20 years old by now. Many thanks for any help anyone can give me. For now, I’ve just closed the valves and turned off the power to the pump. I hope when I go back I have water!! Alison
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > I have a vacation home that gets water from a well using a Jet Pump > (made by Goulds Pumps). I’ve noticed it seems to be running more > frequently than in the past, and sometimes will run for several cycles > even though I haven’t had any water on. I’ve checked for leaks and > don’t find any. Just for fun, I closed the valves on either side – > the valve on the main coming into the house from the well, and the one > just after the pump that allows the water into the rest of the house. > After a couple minutes, the pump came on, trying to rebuild the water > pressure (or head, as I’ve read here that it should properly be > called). Obviously, since the valve on the main was closed, no water > made it in from the well. > The only thing I can think of is that the pressure tank that sits on > top of the pump (this big red thing that looks like a little propane > tank) has a leak? Either that or somewhere in the pump housing itself > there is a leak? How would I go about determining if it’s in the pump > housing or the pressure tank? And, is a pressure tank something I > could get at any plumbing supply store or is it going to be something > I have to special order? > Just as another note of background, the pump itself is only about > three years old. We had a pipe break outside the house, and the old > pump burned out (we weren’t at the house when the pipe broke so didn’t > know.) The pressure tank is the one that came with the original pump, > and would be about 20 years old by now. > Many thanks for any help anyone can give me. For now, I’ve just > closed the valves and turned off the power to the pump. I hope when I > go back I have water!! > Alison
Does the pump have one or two *inlet* lines from the well? When was the last time the foot (check) valve in the well was replaced? Single line (shallow well) jet pumps have suction on the (one) line from the well. Two line (deep well) jets have pressure on the smaller line and suction on the larger. There should not be any valves on the line(s) from the well to the pump regardless what type of pump. My guess is the foot valve is leaking (or the line(s) from the well) and now that you’ve shut off the valve in the line from the well you probably will loose prime. So take a few gallons of water back with you unless a neighbor sis close by. Then have the old small tank checked for proper air pressure (with no water in it) and replaced if the ‘bladder’ is broken. That set up is called a constant pressure system; the pump runs constantly while you use water. If not I’m wrong and the tank is larger than I visualize. Unless you have water on the floor the pump can’t be leaking. But either or both of the valves you closed can be. Especially if they’re old. Gary Quality Water Associates
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > There’s only one line feeding into the pump from the well. There is > > no foot valve in the well (don’t ask why, that’s a long story). > Then there has to be a check valve up at the pump or the water in the > pump and pr. tank will feed the well when the pump shuts off. > So tell me why no foot valve and how the thing is plumbed so the water > doesn’t drain out of the line into the well. IOWs, paint me a picture. > The well is up the hill from our house. There’s a big black pipe that > drops down into the well and runs under ground to the house. Once the > line comes inside the house, there’s a Y valve and then a little > closer to the pump there’s a check valve (so we don’t lose prime when > the pump shuts off). Then there’s another valve that I can turn to > shut off water to the pump. Then the pump and then the line out from > the pump to the house. Just after the pump there’s another valve I > can shut off so no water gets to the house. > There is no leaking water anywhere in the basement that I can find. > I’ve checked around the faucets and toilet as well and there are no > signs of leakage there. As I mentioned earlier, I’ve closed the two > valves on either side of the pump and it still loses pressure. It > kicks on when it gets down to around 20 psi and then back off when it > hits 40. But, it slowly loses pressure even if no water is on. > Without a foot valve to allow filling of the tubing, the water is going > to run into the well and trying to prime a pump when that happens is > very difficult to impossible. I cuss a lot when that happens. lol Just > dont think it’s full when it overflows some, watch it for 10-15 seconds > and when it doen’t decrease anymore it’s full. > Okie doke, I’ll take extra water (we usually keep jugs of water > anyway, since we had the original pipe break). The pressure tank > comes off and there’s an opening into the pump from there. Hopefully > though, with the check valve, I won’t have lost prime! I’ll also take > a tire pressure guage and see what the tank is showing. If it’s low, > can I just take it to a gas station and put more air in it (like with > a flat tire)? > You’ve been most helpful Gary! This is all starting to make more > sense to me! > Alison
Now there’s a curve in there, the well being uphill from the pump. I suspect they are relying on gravity caused suction to lift the water out of the well and hold the water in the line when the pump shuts off. That explains how it can work without a foot valve in the well. With the check valve between the well and pump, water is not allowed to go back toward the well. Unless the shut off valve to the house is leaking and as you say you can’t find a leak in the house, so to me the problem is on the well side of things. and the check valve and shut off valve both have to be leaking back With both valves plus a check valve fully closed and a loss of pressure occurring with the pr. gauge on the pump …. I suspect your shut off valve on the inlet line and the check valve too is leaking. If there is less water in the well now than before, that could be a factor. If you are on the East Coast you probably are involved in the drought, and possibly acidic water. Acidic water causes problems with metal valves (seats) and washer seal screws and 20 years is a long time for metal shut off valves in acidic water. They don’t shut off fully when you need them to and you don’t know that until you need them to shut off; like now. And this problem happened before you shut off the water. The check valve is supposed to stop water flow back to the well, it isn’t or you wouldn’t be losing pressure. So change the check and inlet shut off valves and prime the pump. How you prime a line running uphill is beyond me unless you can go up the hill and pour water down hill into the pump…. It must not be much elevation. That Y, maybe that’s for hooking a utility pump to to pressure prime the line. If you can connect a garden hose to it then you can hook a pump to it. You’d need a 5 gal bucket of water to feed it. The black line in the well… I suspect it to be poly tubing and that uses insert fittings and hose clamps. If any have loosened between the well and pump that allows air to leak in and causes the water to be able to run back to the well ‘cuz there’s no foot valve. I think I’d add one if it were me. As to the guys suggesting you need air added to the tank…. they are speaking to full sized pressure tanks meant to store water and allow the pump to shut off during water usage and ’short cycling, you’re losing pressure when no water is being used. An entirely different thing that is caused by a water leak somewhere between the well and its pump. With no foot valve (which I bet they all had and you should) they didn’t have a leak off of pressure, as you do. Your tank is not meant to allow constant run of the pump and I’ve never seen an air over water tank used for a constant run pump. Actually your tank is more water hammer control than anything else, it doesn’t store more than a gallon or so of water. Using long term stored water asks for introduced bacteria problems. Fresh sterile is best. Gary Quality Water Associates
I presume you have probably done the following; either delinberately or inadvertently while working on the system. But a suggestion anyway. Make sure you have enough air in the pressure tank. BTW some older tanks don’t have that bladder arrangement; AFIK neither of our ’shallow well pumps that were ‘convertible’ jet pumps that could have been used as deeper well pumps did not. At least one of our pumps had a ’snifter;’ valve that supposedly sucked some air into the system while it was pumping water; but there were still occasions when I’d have to ‘drain down’ the system to introduce more air. On occasion I’d come home and my wife would say "by the way the pump’s been cutting in a lot today, even when I didn’t run the water" and that was the tip off. We had two pumps over about a 25 year period; both on shallow wells. One would self prime the other one had to be primed with water at least once on each occasion (didn’t suck as strong I guess!). Both our pumps had pressure gauges which was a great help in observing cut in (20lbs/sq inch) and cut out (40lbs/sq inch) which were the usual pressures. Good luck.
I agree with Terry. Had an older water tank that you had to drain every few years as there was no bladder and the head would eventually bleed into the water (after all air is composed of Oxygen and Hydrogen, as well as some other gases) and eventually lead to the pump kicking on in order to supply pressure. Another suggestion – have you checked the venturi(sp?) on the pump to make sure there is not an obstruction?
> > There’s only one line feeding into the pump from the well. There is > no foot valve in the well (don’t ask why, that’s a long story). > Then there has to be a check valve up at the pump or the water in the > pump and pr. tank will feed the well when the pump shuts off. > So tell me why no foot valve and how the thing is plumbed so the water > doesn’t drain out of the line into the well. IOWs, paint me a picture.
The well is up the hill from our house. There’s a big black pipe that drops down into the well and runs under ground to the house. Once the line comes inside the house, there’s a Y valve and then a little closer to the pump there’s a check valve (so we don’t lose prime when the pump shuts off). Then there’s another valve that I can turn to shut off water to the pump. Then the pump and then the line out from the pump to the house. Just after the pump there’s another valve I can shut off so no water gets to the house. There is no leaking water anywhere in the basement that I can find. I’ve checked around the faucets and toilet as well and there are no signs of leakage there. As I mentioned earlier, I’ve closed the two valves on either side of the pump and it still loses pressure. It kicks on when it gets down to around 20 psi and then back off when it hits 40. But, it slowly loses pressure even if no water is on. > Without a foot valve to allow filling of the tubing, the water is going > to run into the well and trying to prime a pump when that happens is > very difficult to impossible. I cuss a lot when that happens. lol Just > dont think it’s full when it overflows some, watch it for 10-15 seconds > and when it doen’t decrease anymore it’s full.
Okie doke, I’ll take extra water (we usually keep jugs of water anyway, since we had the original pipe break). The pressure tank comes off and there’s an opening into the pump from there. Hopefully though, with the check valve, I won’t have lost prime! I’ll also take a tire pressure guage and see what the tank is showing. If it’s low, can I just take it to a gas station and put more air in it (like with a flat tire)? You’ve been most helpful Gary! This is all starting to make more sense to me! Alison
> Does the pump have one or two *inlet* lines from the well? > When was the last time the foot (check) valve in the well was replaced? > Single line (shallow well) jet pumps have suction on the (one) line from > the well. Two line (deep well) jets have pressure on the smaller line > and suction on the larger. There should not be any valves on the line(s) > from the well to the pump regardless what type of pump.
There’s only one line feeding into the pump from the well. There is no foot valve in the well (don’t ask why, that’s a long story). > My guess is the foot valve is leaking (or the line(s) from the well) and > now that you’ve shut off the valve in the line from the well you > probably will loose prime. So take a few gallons of water back with you > unless a neighbor sis close by. Then have the old small tank checked for > proper air pressure (with no water in it) and replaced if the ‘bladder’ > is broken. That set up is called a constant pressure system; the pump > runs constantly while you use water. If not I’m wrong and the tank is > larger than I visualize.
Yes, the pump runs constantly if we’re using water. It’s the fact that it runs when we’re not using water that concerns me. If I’ve lost prime, I just have to pour some water into the pump at the top and turn it on, right? Also, how do I check the pressure on the old small tank? Can I use a tire pressure guage? Many thanks for all your help with this, Gary! This house is pretty far out in the country and finding people to work on this system isn’t easy. That’s why I’m learning how to fix it myself! Thanks again, Alison
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does the pump have one or two *inlet* lines from the well? > When was the last time the foot (check) valve in the well was replaced? > Single line (shallow well) jet pumps have suction on the (one) line from > the well. Two line (deep well) jets have pressure on the smaller line > and suction on the larger. There should not be any valves on the line(s) > from the well to the pump regardless what type of pump. > There’s only one line feeding into the pump from the well. There is > no foot valve in the well (don’t ask why, that’s a long story).
Then there has to be a check valve up at the pump or the water in the pump and pr. tank will feed the well when the pump shuts off. So tell me why no foot valve and how the thing is plumbed so the water doesn’t drain out of the line into the well. IOWs, paint me a picture. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My guess is the foot valve is leaking (or the line(s) from the well) and > now that you’ve shut off the valve in the line from the well you > probably will loose prime. So take a few gallons of water back with you > unless a neighbor sis close by. Then have the old small tank checked for > proper air pressure (with no water in it) and replaced if the ‘bladder’ > is broken. That set up is called a constant pressure system; the pump > runs constantly while you use water. If not I’m wrong and the tank is > larger than I visualize. > Yes, the pump runs constantly if we’re using water. It’s the fact > that it runs when we’re not using water that concerns me. > If I’ve lost prime, I just have to pour some water into the pump at > the top and turn it on, right?
Without a foot valve to allow filling of the tubing, the water is going to run into the well and trying to prime a pump when that happens is very difficult to impossible. I cuss a lot when that happens. lol Just dont think it’s full when it overflows some, watch it for 10-15 seconds and when it doen’t decrease anymore it’s full. There should be a pipe plug in a tee on the verticle outlet (line to house side) of the pump. You remove that plug and pour water into the cavity until it fills. The cavity is the pump. You may not have a plug and have to remove the tank. The tank should be on the outlet of the pump. > Also, how do I check the pressure on the old small tank? Can I use a > tire pressure guage?
There should be a tire type valve stem on the tank. You check the pressure with no water in the tank and set it at 1-2 psi less than the pressure that the pump turns on at. If the pump comes on at 20 psi water pressure, you set the air at 19-18 psi. > Many thanks for all your help with this, Gary! This house is pretty > far out in the country and finding people to work on this system isn’t > easy. That’s why I’m learning how to fix it myself! > Thanks again, > Alison
I know how it goes. Gary Quality Water Associates
Anyone have suggestions for how to fix a steam radiator leak? The leak is at the coupling where the nipple and radiator are joined by tightening the nut. The radiator has been moved in the past. I tried removing the radiator, reinserting it and re-tightening it but the leak persists. Is there a compound or some substance that can be applied to the joint area to stop the leak. I assume doing anything with the threads and the nut is a no-no. Any help is appreciated.
> Anyone have suggestions for how to fix a steam radiator leak? The leak > is at the coupling where the nipple and radiator are joined by > tightening the nut. The radiator has been moved in the past. I tried > removing the radiator, reinserting it and re-tightening it but the > leak persists. Is there a compound or some substance that can be > applied to the joint area to stop the leak. I assume doing anything > with the threads and the nut is a no-no. Any help is appreciated.
I’ve always had good luck stopping these leaks with thread compound. Heh! Once I used Teflon tape but that didn’t work out real well
> Anyone have suggestions for how to fix a steam radiator leak? The leak > is at the coupling where the nipple and radiator are joined by > tightening the nut. The radiator has been moved in the past. I tried > removing the radiator, reinserting it and re-tightening it but the > leak persists. Is there a compound or some substance that can be > applied to the joint area to stop the leak. I assume doing anything > with the threads and the nut is a no-no. Any help is appreciated.
Try removing the union nut, pull the radiator away and clean the beveled mating surfaces with a small wire brush VERY good. Both surfaces should be nice and shiny. On the piece that has the larger union nut, slide it back and wire brush the lip it rides on. When everything is clean apply "Anti-size" to the union lip and the threads but not in the mating surfaces of the union. Try not to use anything larger then a 24" wrench, or cracking the nut becomes a risk. BTW, if you have to remove an old union and re-use it, use a center punch and mark both pieces in a straight line so when you pipe them back you can line up the punch marks. If not you may have a very difficult time getting them to seal. 
zero .
Often hard to get a radiator union to line up properly again. Clean the faces of the union, then apply a small smear of pipe joint compound to the faces; that will help seal tiny leaks. Jim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Anyone have suggestions for how to fix a steam radiator leak? The leak > is at the coupling where the nipple and radiator are joined by > tightening the nut. The radiator has been moved in the past. I tried > removing the radiator, reinserting it and re-tightening it but the > leak persists. Is there a compound or some substance that can be > applied to the joint area to stop the leak. I assume doing anything > with the threads and the nut is a no-no. Any help is appreciated.
Success! I bought Hercules Pro Dope pipe joint compound and applied it to the nipple on the radiator and where it inserts into the valve. I re-attached the coupling, cranked up the furnace and not a drop of water is to be found. Thanks to all for your help. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Anyone have suggestions for how to fix a steam radiator leak? The leak > is at the coupling where the nipple and radiator are joined by > tightening the nut. The radiator has been moved in the past. I tried > removing the radiator, reinserting it and re-tightening it but the > leak persists. Is there a compound or some substance that can be > applied to the joint area to stop the leak. I assume doing anything > with the threads and the nut is a no-no. Any help is appreciated. > I’ve always had good luck stopping these leaks with thread compound. > Heh! Once I used Teflon tape but that didn’t work out real well
I seem to have a roof leak, perhaps related to the chimney , as revealed by a water mark stain at the junction of my roof and wall directly above my fireplace. What is usually involved in the repair process? Is this a complex and costly repair job? thanks, — Mike
Do the fix right. Get flashing installed, or re-installed. Don’t try to simply "tar" it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I seem to have a roof leak, perhaps related to the chimney , as revealed by > a water mark stain at the junction of my roof and wall directly above my > fireplace. What is usually involved in the repair process? Is this a > complex and costly repair job?
After calling the roofers out three rainey seasons in a row because of repeated leaks they are now telling me it is not the flat roof but the wall around the flat roof that is busted and leaking down the walls. This does make sense since the leaks are around the edges of the ceilings and not in the center of any of the rooms. Of course it took them three years to figure this out. My question is what type of repairman do I call to fix the cracks in the walls. When I asked the roofers they didn’t know but they told me they put some bull on the cracks to help with the leaks. What causes a wall to crack to begin with? I live in an adobe style house so the wall are higher than the roof. Does this sound like a major repair problem? What type of cost factor can I expect to pay for this type of repair? I’ve always gotten great advice on this site and hope to figure this one out too. Temple
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > After calling the roofers out three rainey seasons in a row because > of repeated leaks they are now telling me it is not the flat roof > but the wall around the flat roof that is busted and leaking down > the walls. This does make sense since the leaks are around the > edges of the ceilings and not in the center of any of the rooms. > Of course it took them three years to figure this out. My question > is what type of repairman do I call to fix the cracks in the walls. > When I asked the roofers they didn’t know but they told me they put > some bull on the cracks to help with the leaks. What causes a wall > to crack to begin with? I live in an adobe style house so the wall > are higher than the roof. Does this sound like a major repair > problem? What type of cost factor can I expect to pay for this > type of repair? I’ve always gotten great advice on this site and > hope to figure this one out too. > Temple
Call another roofer, one who has proper experience with flashings. This is an application for a thru-wall flashing, although to retrofit one will be expensive. You may be able to attain the same results with a coping cap and standard wall flashing. Either way bulling the cracks is temporary at best.
i have a leak in our new roof and it seems to be involved with the flashing i call next? (the water ruined my bedroom ceiling) rosie —
> i have a leak in our new roof and it seems to be involved with the flashing > i call next? (the water ruined my bedroom ceiling) > rosie > —
Notify your insurance company, then call the builder(I guess you just had this house built) if this is the case he, the builder has an obligation that the has to fix it right, even if he needs to call a roofer out to do it right. thats what he was paid for.
> i have a leak in our new roof and it seems to be involved with the flashing > i call next? (the water ruined my bedroom ceiling)
You need to get a roofer that knows how to do flashing. Most "builders" will know how to smear on glop but won’t know how to fix it.
After calling the roofers out three rainey seasons in a row because of repeated leaks they are now telling me it is not the flat roof but the wall around the flat roof that is busted and leaking down the walls. This does make sense since the leaks are around the edges of the ceilings and not in the center of any of the rooms. Of course it took them three years to figure this out. My question is what type of repairman do I call to fix the cracks in the walls. When I asked the roofers they didn’t know but they told me they put some bull on the cracks to help with the leaks. What causes a wall to crack to begin with? I live in an adobe style house so the wall are higher than the roof. Does this sound like a major repair problem? What type of cost factor can I expect to pay for this type of repair? I’ve always gotten great advice on this site and hope to figure this one out too. Temple
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > After calling the roofers out three rainey seasons in a row because > of repeated leaks they are now telling me it is not the flat roof > but the wall around the flat roof that is busted and leaking down > the walls. This does make sense since the leaks are around the > edges of the ceilings and not in the center of any of the rooms. > Of course it took them three years to figure this out. My question > is what type of repairman do I call to fix the cracks in the walls. > When I asked the roofers they didn’t know but they told me they put > some bull on the cracks to help with the leaks. What causes a wall > to crack to begin with? I live in an adobe style house so the wall > are higher than the roof. Does this sound like a major repair > problem? What type of cost factor can I expect to pay for this > type of repair? I’ve always gotten great advice on this site and > hope to figure this one out too. > Temple
Call another roofer, one who has proper experience with flashings. This is an application for a thru-wall flashing, although to retrofit one will be expensive. You may be able to attain the same results with a coping cap and standard wall flashing. Either way bulling the cracks is temporary at best.
i have a leak in our new roof and it seems to be involved with the flashing i call next? (the water ruined my bedroom ceiling) rosie —
> i have a leak in our new roof and it seems to be involved with the flashing > i call next? (the water ruined my bedroom ceiling) > rosie > —
Notify your insurance company, then call the builder(I guess you just had this house built) if this is the case he, the builder has an obligation that the has to fix it right, even if he needs to call a roofer out to do it right. thats what he was paid for.
> i have a leak in our new roof and it seems to be involved with the flashing > i call next? (the water ruined my bedroom ceiling)
You need to get a roofer that knows how to do flashing. Most "builders" will know how to smear on glop but won’t know how to fix it.
Thanks all for the prompt replies! So the heater core leaks (this one really pukes!) into some cavity behind the firewall and the coolant drains thru the condenser drain. That’s neat! Will try to bypass it for now and see how easy it is to replace. Thanks again for the info. Igor – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am guessing that your heater core blew up and that’s the A/C condenser > drain? try bypassing the heater core and see if it holds coolant now > nate
> Thanks all for the prompt replies! So the heater core leaks (this one really > pukes!) into some cavity behind the firewall and the coolant drains thru the > condenser drain. That’s neat! Will try to bypass it for now and see how easy > it is to replace. > Thanks again for the info. > Igor
Yup, beats the hell out of the VW way which is dumping a steaming load of coolant on the passenger’s feet 
something GM actually got right I guess… nate (too many VW’s, love that coolant mist on the windshield in the morning!)
Igor, That’s a pretty severe heater leak. Hope you truly did not lose all of the coolant, if so, don’t run the engine in that condition. I’m interested in what you find when you dig into this break. (Got a digital camera??) Please let us know. Thanks, John For the latest in automotive coolants and refrigerants, check in at: http://www.imcool.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, all > Today while driving my Grand Am’90 I smelled that nasty burning > antifreeze smell. When I checked the cooling system, I found all > antifreeze drained. Adding more didn’t do any good, because all of it > drained again through a tube on the passenger side of the firewall. > There was a rubber elbow on it and it was not connected to anything. > This doesn’t seem to be any of the heater outlets, since there are two > heater hoses in the middle of the firewall. > Could anyone please tell me what is this tube and how to fix the > problem? Thanks in advance for any info. > Igor
chances are about 98 out of 100 that one of the ‘welds’ where the plastic tubes are joined failed. its not too bad to change, if you can get the console extension out of the come out, and you can only get to the nut that holds it with a box-end, 1/12 of a turn at a time after that about 10 of the 7mm head screws, and you’re there.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Igor, > That’s a pretty severe heater leak. > Hope you truly did not lose all of the coolant, if so, don’t run the engine in that > condition. > I’m interested in what you find when you dig into this break. > (Got a digital camera??) > Please let us know. > Thanks, > John > For the latest in automotive coolants and refrigerants, > check in at: > http://www.imcool.com > Hi, all > Today while driving my Grand Am’90 I smelled that nasty burning > antifreeze smell. When I checked the cooling system, I found all > antifreeze drained. Adding more didn’t do any good, because all of it > drained again through a tube on the passenger side of the firewall. > There was a rubber elbow on it and it was not connected to anything. > This doesn’t seem to be any of the heater outlets, since there are two > heater hoses in the middle of the firewall. > Could anyone please tell me what is this tube and how to fix the > problem? Thanks in advance for any info. > Igor
Sounds like the heater core blew , it running out of the drainage tube for the AC system
Igor, That’s a pretty severe heater leak. Hope you truly did not lose all of the coolant, if so, don’t run the engine in that condition. I’m interested in what you find when you dig into this break. (Got a digital camera??) Please let us know. Thanks, John For the latest in automotive coolants and refrigerants, check in at: http://www.imcool.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, all > Today while driving my Grand Am’90 I smelled that nasty burning > antifreeze smell. When I checked the cooling system, I found all > antifreeze drained. Adding more didn’t do any good, because all of it > drained again through a tube on the passenger side of the firewall. > There was a rubber elbow on it and it was not connected to anything. > This doesn’t seem to be any of the heater outlets, since there are two > heater hoses in the middle of the firewall. > Could anyone please tell me what is this tube and how to fix the > problem? Thanks in advance for any info. > Igor
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, all > Today while driving my Grand Am’90 I smelled that nasty burning > antifreeze smell. When I checked the cooling system, I found all > antifreeze drained. Adding more didn’t do any good, because all of it > drained again through a tube on the passenger side of the firewall. > There was a rubber elbow on it and it was not connected to anything. > This doesn’t seem to be any of the heater outlets, since there are two > heater hoses in the middle of the firewall. > Could anyone please tell me what is this tube and how to fix the > problem? Thanks in advance for any info. > Igor
Same as everybody else …. Replace or by-pass the heater core. It’s toast. — WARNING: Return address may contain antispam. Take out the garbage to reply. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Kevin Mouton ….. Automotive Technology Instructor "If women don’t find you handsome, they should at least find you handy" Red Green
Hi, all Today while driving my Grand Am’90 I smelled that nasty burning antifreeze smell. When I checked the cooling system, I found all antifreeze drained. Adding more didn’t do any good, because all of it drained again through a tube on the passenger side of the firewall. There was a rubber elbow on it and it was not connected to anything. This doesn’t seem to be any of the heater outlets, since there are two heater hoses in the middle of the firewall. Could anyone please tell me what is this tube and how to fix the problem? Thanks in advance for any info. Igor
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, all > Today while driving my Grand Am’90 I smelled that nasty burning > antifreeze smell. When I checked the cooling system, I found all > antifreeze drained. Adding more didn’t do any good, because all of it > drained again through a tube on the passenger side of the firewall. > There was a rubber elbow on it and it was not connected to anything. > This doesn’t seem to be any of the heater outlets, since there are two > heater hoses in the middle of the firewall. > Could anyone please tell me what is this tube and how to fix the > problem? Thanks in advance for any info. > Igor
I am guessing that your heater core blew up and that’s the A/C condenser drain? try bypassing the heater core and see if it holds coolant now nate
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, all > Today while driving my Grand Am’90 I smelled that nasty burning > antifreeze smell. When I checked the cooling system, I found all > antifreeze drained. Adding more didn’t do any good, because all of it > drained again through a tube on the passenger side of the firewall. > There was a rubber elbow on it and it was not connected to anything. > This doesn’t seem to be any of the heater outlets, since there are two > heater hoses in the middle of the firewall. > Could anyone please tell me what is this tube and how to fix the > problem? Thanks in advance for any info. > Igor
I agree with N.N.: heater core blew up. I’m on my 4th one in my 92 G/A. If you have tools, you can replace it yourself in a few hours.
"Igor" wrote > Hi, all > Today while driving my Grand Am’90 I smelled that nasty burning > antifreeze smell. When I checked the cooling system, I found all > antifreeze drained. Adding more didn’t do any good, because all of it > drained again through a tube on the passenger side of the firewall. > There was a rubber elbow on it and it was not connected to anything. > This doesn’t seem to be any of the heater outlets, since there are two > heater hoses in the middle of the firewall. > Could anyone please tell me what is this tube and how to fix the > problem? Thanks in advance for any info.
You need a new heater core. Ian