> Anyone have an opinion on which way to go on a laminate floor? > 1. Glue/no Glue > 2. Pergo built-in glue > 3. Snap and lock that cannot be separated like Wilsonart versus > drop/lock from Armstrong that don’t really lock together and are > easy to disassemble and repair.
No experience. Extensive reading in this group and Google over the last 3 months has me heavily inclined to go with the glued variety for my project. Being rental property I am choosing it for the most water proof surface I can get. It also about half the price for materials. It will take extra time to install. Really won’t be able to finish any room in one day as the glue has to cure for 8 hours before you can walk on it to do those last few boards on the last wall.
I’d go with glue. It provides a better edge seal in the event the floor gets wet. In addition, gluing a floor is very easy. Most of the labor is involved in planning and preparing the old surface. Once you start laying the new floor the gluing adds very little time and hassle. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Anyone have an opinion on which way to go on a laminate floor? >1. Glue/no Glue >2. Pergo built-in glue >3. Snap and lock that cannot be separated like Wilsonart versus > drop/lock from Armstrong that don’t really lock together and are >easy to disassemble and repair.
I disagree. After doing both, I feel that the gluing takes up much more time. Not so much the actual act of putting on the glue, but the general slowdown due to the constant cleaning/wiping you have to do after inserting each board, not to mention that since each board has glue in it you generally work slower with it so as not to get glue where you don’t want it. I feel the glue down floor takes at least twice the amount of time.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’d go with glue. It provides a better edge seal in the event the > floor gets wet. > In addition, gluing a floor is very easy. Most of the labor is > involved in planning and preparing the old surface. Once you start > laying the new floor the gluing adds very little time and hassle. >Anyone have an opinion on which way to go on a laminate floor? >1. Glue/no Glue >2. Pergo built-in glue >3. Snap and lock that cannot be separated like Wilsonart versus > drop/lock from Armstrong that don’t really lock together and are >easy to disassemble and repair.
Anyone have an opinion on which way to go on a laminate floor? 1. Glue/no Glue 2. Pergo built-in glue 3. Snap and lock that cannot be separated like Wilsonart versus drop/lock from Armstrong that don’t really lock together and are easy to disassemble and repair.
I think that totally depends on where the flooring is going to be installed. About 2 years ago I installed Ikea Tundra flooring in my kitchen. It is the glue-together type. A real pain in the behind to install, because of the glue. But my wife and I liked the looks of it, and at the time didn’t want to spend almost twice the price on any other brand. So we bought the Tundra for $1.40 a sq ft and a 15 year warranty. After installing it in my 19 x 14 kitchen, we loved it. Still do. However I noticed that there was a small area, about a 4" by 3" area, that appeared to have glue residue left on it. I didn’t think much of it, figuring that I’d just be able to scrape it right off. A few days later I tried wiping it off with a damp rag…no dice. And then over a few more days I noticed it was getting real dark, as if dirt was getting stuck in the glue. And it was ticking me off because it was right in the middle of the floor. No one really notices it but my wife and I. Anyways, I read a post in here the other day that stated that laminate flooring warranties are worthless. Well, I’m here to tell you that that just isn’t true. I called Ikea about the floor’s "spot", so they sent out a flooring contractor to clean it up. He couldn’t believe that it wouldn’t come up. (keep in mind, by the time I called them, I had tried mineral spirits, goo off, pergo laminate floor glue remover, and even a razor blade scraper! nothing worked). The contractor said he’s never seen anything like it, and couldn’t figure out how to fix it. He said he could try replacing just the one board, but that’s pretty hard to do. So guess what? I’m getting a brand new floor installed, professionally this time at that! Not bad for a $500 floor that, quite frankly, my wife and I were very happy with even with the spot. I realize I used your post to get semi-off topic, so back to your situation: I chose the glue-together because it’s a kitchen. But mostly because of price. I’d like to install laminate in my living room, though I’ll probably not get to it as I plan to move in a few years. However if I do decide to install it in the living room, which is a pretty big room (39 x 30), I’ll definitely NOT go with glue together, and would opt for the snap together.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Anyone have an opinion on which way to go on a laminate floor? > 1. Glue/no Glue > 2. Pergo built-in glue > 3. Snap and lock that cannot be separated like Wilsonart versus > drop/lock from Armstrong that don’t really lock together and are > easy to disassemble and repair.
I have a KitchenAid disposal; I think it was made by ISE. It now make a lot of noise when there is no food being ground. With food, it seems to be quite normal. The other day, when it was running, it continued to be quiet, even though the food was gone. I thought, great! I shut it off and then turned it back on, only to have it be very loud again. Anyone have any idea on how to fix this, or if it can be fixed.
A. Todesco wrote >I have a KitchenAid disposal; I think it was made by ISE. It now make a >lot of noise when there is no food being ground. With food, it seems to >be quite normal. The other day, when it was running, it continued to be >quiet, even though the food was gone. I thought, great! I shut it off >and then turned it back on, only to have it be very loud again. Anyone >have any idea on how to fix this, or if it can be fixed.
If it’s not just something is jammed inside it, it could be one (or more) of the grinding ‘hammers’ is loose on the rotating plate. That plate could be replaced (if still available for your model) and a new seal kit installed. That job could easily run $150 if you took it to a local depot for repair. Considerably more if you had someone come out to remove and reinstall it for your too. It may also be possible that a worn bearing or rotor shaft is responsible for the noise which also could likely be repaired … for a price. Dan O. – Appliance411.com http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=ISE+disposers =
>Last night our microwave oven, plugged into a GFI outlet box in the >kitchen, blew out. It apparently screwed up our household circuits >but good! After throwing all the GFI boxes from test to reset, and >then rethrowing the main GFI switch in the breaker box, things were >still screwy.
You have a branch circuit, feed by a GFCI breaker and with GFCI outlets (plural) in the stream??? Things already sound like you might want to call (here it comes) a professional.
>If I pressed the test button on the outlet the microwave was >plugged into the other outlets worked again.
Simply replace this outlet. GFCI outlets are only $7 at HD. A short-circuit that trips the breaker can "kill" one.
Last night our microwave oven, plugged into a GFI outlet box in the kitchen, blew out. It apparently screwed up our household circuits but good! After throwing all the GFI boxes from test to reset, and then rethrowing the main GFI switch in the breaker box, things were still screwy. Several outlets remained totally dead. If I pressed the test button on the outlet the microwave was plugged into the other outlets worked again. This included several outlets on a separate circuit (labeled small appliance in the breaker box) that were running the refrigerator and at least one outlet in the adjoining living room. Worried about the potential for an electrical fire, I switched off both the GFI and the small appliance breaker from the main box. Anyone think they know what happened, and how to fix it? Thanks Joe Kelch