I have a CD changer in a 2000 Buick. When I try to use it I get an E-34 message on the radio. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix it? Thanks, Lou
Did it used to work before and now doesn’t, or did you just find one to put in and this is how life is starting? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a CD changer in a 2000 Buick. When I try to use it I get an E-34 >message on the radio. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix >it? >Thanks, >Lou
I have a CD changer in a 2000 Buick. When I try to use it I get an E-34 message on the radio. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix it? Thanks, Lou
>I have a CD changer in a 2000 Buick. When I try to use it I get an E-34 > message on the radio. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix > it? > Thanks, > Lou
Wow what a mess that turned out to be…lol Cut & Paste from a web site I found using "Google Search" showing what all the error Message’s mean for GM CD Changer’s as well for other GM Radios….Here is the web page for you Lou Cheers Rob http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic183427.htm
It used to work fine but one day it failed. The radio just shows the error number then goes back to playing the radio. Lou
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Did it used to work before and now doesn’t, or did you just find one > to put in and this is how life is starting? >I have a CD changer in a 2000 Buick. When I try to use it I get an E-34 >message on the radio. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix >it? >Thanks, >Lou
WOW! Thanks for the info. I never thought something like this could be successfully googled. Lou
>I have a CD changer in a 2000 Buick. When I try to use it I get an E-34 > message on the radio. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix > it? > Thanks, > Lou
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Wow what a mess that turned out to be…lol > Cut & Paste from a web site I found using "Google Search" showing what all > the error Message’s mean for GM CD Changer’s > as well for other GM Radios….Here is the web page for you Lou > Cheers > Rob > http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic183427.htm
If it were me, I would look at it like this: It’s an electronic and mechanical device. Odds are the electronic part of it is fine, but that it instead has a mechanical hangup. I would remove it from the vehicle. Take it apart and look for some kind of mechanical issue that can be easily remedied. Might need a bench test power supply to play with things. Barring that, I would look for a reasobale replacement on Ebay. There are aftermarket, but they are not always bolt in / plug in. Often needing different mounting and special translating adapeters to allow the headunit to control the unit. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->It used to work fine but one day it failed. The radio just shows the error >number then goes back to playing the radio. >Lou > Did it used to work before and now doesn’t, or did you just find one > to put in and this is how life is starting? > >I have a CD changer in a 2000 Buick. When I try to use it I get an E-34 > >message on the radio. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix > >it? > >Thanks, > >Lou
2000 328ci just purchased and has no cd changer. Which is the best unit to install that will fit the best at a good price?
The BMW unit is around $400US from Pacific BMW. Works perfect.
You can get the Alpine MP3/CD changer for about $250 and then need the Blitzsafe adapter. Check out Crutchfield and then do a search on google. This is the one I have and I like it.
2000 328ci just purchased and has no cd changer. Which is the best unit to install that will fit the best at a good price?
The BMW unit is around $400US from Pacific BMW. Works perfect.
You can get the Alpine MP3/CD changer for about $250 and then need the Blitzsafe adapter. Check out Crutchfield and then do a search on google. This is the one I have and I like it.
I have a CD changer in a 2000 Buick. When I try to use it I get an E-34 message on the radio. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix it? Thanks, Lou
Did it used to work before and now doesn’t, or did you just find one to put in and this is how life is starting? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a CD changer in a 2000 Buick. When I try to use it I get an E-34 >message on the radio. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix >it? >Thanks, >Lou
I have a CD changer in a 2000 Buick. When I try to use it I get an E-34 message on the radio. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix it? Thanks, Lou
>I have a CD changer in a 2000 Buick. When I try to use it I get an E-34 > message on the radio. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix > it? > Thanks, > Lou
Wow what a mess that turned out to be…lol Cut & Paste from a web site I found using "Google Search" showing what all the error Message’s mean for GM CD Changer’s as well for other GM Radios….Here is the web page for you Lou Cheers Rob http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic183427.htm
It used to work fine but one day it failed. The radio just shows the error number then goes back to playing the radio. Lou
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Did it used to work before and now doesn’t, or did you just find one > to put in and this is how life is starting? >I have a CD changer in a 2000 Buick. When I try to use it I get an E-34 >message on the radio. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix >it? >Thanks, >Lou
WOW! Thanks for the info. I never thought something like this could be successfully googled. Lou
>I have a CD changer in a 2000 Buick. When I try to use it I get an E-34 > message on the radio. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix > it? > Thanks, > Lou
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Wow what a mess that turned out to be…lol > Cut & Paste from a web site I found using "Google Search" showing what all > the error Message’s mean for GM CD Changer’s > as well for other GM Radios….Here is the web page for you Lou > Cheers > Rob > http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic183427.htm
If it were me, I would look at it like this: It’s an electronic and mechanical device. Odds are the electronic part of it is fine, but that it instead has a mechanical hangup. I would remove it from the vehicle. Take it apart and look for some kind of mechanical issue that can be easily remedied. Might need a bench test power supply to play with things. Barring that, I would look for a reasobale replacement on Ebay. There are aftermarket, but they are not always bolt in / plug in. Often needing different mounting and special translating adapeters to allow the headunit to control the unit. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->It used to work fine but one day it failed. The radio just shows the error >number then goes back to playing the radio. >Lou > Did it used to work before and now doesn’t, or did you just find one > to put in and this is how life is starting? > >I have a CD changer in a 2000 Buick. When I try to use it I get an E-34 > >message on the radio. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix > >it? > >Thanks, > >Lou
2000 328ci just purchased and has no cd changer. Which is the best unit to install that will fit the best at a good price?
The BMW unit is around $400US from Pacific BMW. Works perfect.
You can get the Alpine MP3/CD changer for about $250 and then need the Blitzsafe adapter. Check out Crutchfield and then do a search on google. This is the one I have and I like it.
2000 328ci just purchased and has no cd changer. Which is the best unit to install that will fit the best at a good price?
The BMW unit is around $400US from Pacific BMW. Works perfect.
You can get the Alpine MP3/CD changer for about $250 and then need the Blitzsafe adapter. Check out Crutchfield and then do a search on google. This is the one I have and I like it.
I KNOW this was just discussed in the last day or so – but I deleted the elails. My door does not open – the lock seems to work, tho. QWhat exactly do I need to do?
I assume you can’t get the door open from either inside or outside…I think this is a known weak spot in the latch assembly. With the door closed, it’s not easy to get at since the large screws that hold it in place are only visible with the door open. The tech-2-tech web site had a detailed article about this and how to fix it. There was an exact place to drill and (maybe) use a drift punch to release the failed latch. Maybe someone here has a local copy that they could post? Good luck, Arthur P.S. you can get at the old posts via google, they bought deja.com and have newsgroup back articles under the "groups" heading. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I KNOW this was just discussed in the last day or so – but I deleted the > elails. > My door does not open – the lock seems to work, tho. > QWhat exactly do I need to do?
I KNOW this was just discussed in the last day or so – but I deleted the elails. My door does not open – the lock seems to work, tho. QWhat exactly do I need to do?
I assume you can’t get the door open from either inside or outside…I think this is a known weak spot in the latch assembly. With the door closed, it’s not easy to get at since the large screws that hold it in place are only visible with the door open. The tech-2-tech web site had a detailed article about this and how to fix it. There was an exact place to drill and (maybe) use a drift punch to release the failed latch. Maybe someone here has a local copy that they could post? Good luck, Arthur P.S. you can get at the old posts via google, they bought deja.com and have newsgroup back articles under the "groups" heading. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I KNOW this was just discussed in the last day or so – but I deleted the > elails. > My door does not open – the lock seems to work, tho. > QWhat exactly do I need to do?
>Any ideas on what to do or how to fix this?
If you are in the US, take it to the dealer to be fixed under the lifetime seat belt warranty (which should be described in your owner’s manual). — Timothy J. Lee Unsolicited bulk or commercial email is not welcome. No warranty of any kind is provided with this message.
Hello, I’ve had a problem with the driver’s side automatic belt in my 1990 Civic. The belt will not retract when the door closes and the alarm chime beeps. However, when I retract the belt manually with the tool, and then open the door, the belt will open. So unfortunately it’s not just the fuse, as it’s getting power. Any ideas on what to do or how to fix this? THank you, Derek dex space 3703 at juno period kom
@juno.com says… > Hello, > I’ve had a problem with the driver’s side automatic belt in my 1990 > Civic. The belt will not retract when the door closes and the alarm > chime beeps. However, when I retract the belt manually with the tool, > and then open the door, the belt will open. So unfortunately it’s not > just the fuse, as it’s getting power. > Any ideas on what to do or how to fix this? > THank you, > Derek > dex space 3703 at juno period kom
If you are in the USA, take it to a dealer. Honda has a lifetime warranty on seatbelts. –Gene
I would suspect a front switch problem. Why not take your vehicle to a Honda dealer? They will connect it to a automatic belt system analyzer that will direct the technician to the exact source of the problem. mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hello, > I’ve had a problem with the driver’s side automatic belt in my 1990 > Civic. The belt will not retract when the door closes and the alarm > chime beeps. However, when I retract the belt manually with the tool, > and then open the door, the belt will open. So unfortunately it’s not > just the fuse, as it’s getting power. > Any ideas on what to do or how to fix this? > THank you, > Derek > dex space 3703 at juno period kom
>Any ideas on what to do or how to fix this?
If you are in the US, take it to the dealer to be fixed under the lifetime seat belt warranty (which should be described in your owner’s manual). — Timothy J. Lee Unsolicited bulk or commercial email is not welcome. No warranty of any kind is provided with this message.
Hello, I’ve had a problem with the driver’s side automatic belt in my 1990 Civic. The belt will not retract when the door closes and the alarm chime beeps. However, when I retract the belt manually with the tool, and then open the door, the belt will open. So unfortunately it’s not just the fuse, as it’s getting power. Any ideas on what to do or how to fix this? THank you, Derek dex space 3703 at juno period kom
@juno.com says… > Hello, > I’ve had a problem with the driver’s side automatic belt in my 1990 > Civic. The belt will not retract when the door closes and the alarm > chime beeps. However, when I retract the belt manually with the tool, > and then open the door, the belt will open. So unfortunately it’s not > just the fuse, as it’s getting power. > Any ideas on what to do or how to fix this? > THank you, > Derek > dex space 3703 at juno period kom
If you are in the USA, take it to a dealer. Honda has a lifetime warranty on seatbelts. –Gene
I would suspect a front switch problem. Why not take your vehicle to a Honda dealer? They will connect it to a automatic belt system analyzer that will direct the technician to the exact source of the problem. mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hello, > I’ve had a problem with the driver’s side automatic belt in my 1990 > Civic. The belt will not retract when the door closes and the alarm > chime beeps. However, when I retract the belt manually with the tool, > and then open the door, the belt will open. So unfortunately it’s not > just the fuse, as it’s getting power. > Any ideas on what to do or how to fix this? > THank you, > Derek > dex space 3703 at juno period kom
Hi, any hint’s or tips or warnings about glass block? I’m thinking of building a custom shower using the glass block for 2 walls. thanks dave
> Hi, any hint’s or tips or warnings about glass block? I’m thinking of > building a custom shower using the glass block for 2 walls. > thanks > dave
sure, installing glass block i’ve picked up quite a few hints, and tips over the last 30 + years. most newbs use the little brochure tutorials and silicone systems found at diy’er stores. pros most usually use mortar.
Read the manufacturers installation manual. Use glass block mortar and strap each run. Don’t even think of using the "mortarless" method for shower walls. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, any hint’s or tips or warnings about glass block? I’m thinking of > building a custom shower using the glass block for 2 walls. > thanks > dave
> Hi, any hint’s or tips or warnings about glass block? I’m thinking of > building a custom shower using the glass block for 2 walls. > thanks > dave
pros: looks good. cons: cost expensive to buy and hard to build (how to fix door to the glass block wall), heavy, and hard to clean the grout line. I’d get some pre-fab shower and work some glass block wall into the design as unfunctional deco piece.
>Hi, any hint’s or tips or warnings about glass block? I’m thinking of >building a custom shower using the glass block for 2 walls.
Glass block isn’t hard, but you’re complicating it if you don’t have four sides framed. Might want to design it so you have two walls of block, set into the wall but not free standing. Beyond that, patience, persistence and pay attention. Using mortar (don’t think you’re within the range of the silicon strips for a shower wall) make sure to seal it after installation. Make sure you strap the block well for a shower, maybe every course (every other course is standard). Make sure your measurements are accurate, you can’t cut the block to fit. Jeff
Hi, any hint’s or tips or warnings about glass block? I’m thinking of building a custom shower using the glass block for 2 walls. thanks dave
> Hi, any hint’s or tips or warnings about glass block? I’m thinking of > building a custom shower using the glass block for 2 walls. > thanks > dave
sure, installing glass block i’ve picked up quite a few hints, and tips over the last 30 + years. most newbs use the little brochure tutorials and silicone systems found at diy’er stores. pros most usually use mortar.
Read the manufacturers installation manual. Use glass block mortar and strap each run. Don’t even think of using the "mortarless" method for shower walls. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, any hint’s or tips or warnings about glass block? I’m thinking of > building a custom shower using the glass block for 2 walls. > thanks > dave
> Hi, any hint’s or tips or warnings about glass block? I’m thinking of > building a custom shower using the glass block for 2 walls. > thanks > dave
pros: looks good. cons: cost expensive to buy and hard to build (how to fix door to the glass block wall), heavy, and hard to clean the grout line. I’d get some pre-fab shower and work some glass block wall into the design as unfunctional deco piece.
>Hi, any hint’s or tips or warnings about glass block? I’m thinking of >building a custom shower using the glass block for 2 walls.
Glass block isn’t hard, but you’re complicating it if you don’t have four sides framed. Might want to design it so you have two walls of block, set into the wall but not free standing. Beyond that, patience, persistence and pay attention. Using mortar (don’t think you’re within the range of the silicon strips for a shower wall) make sure to seal it after installation. Make sure you strap the block well for a shower, maybe every course (every other course is standard). Make sure your measurements are accurate, you can’t cut the block to fit. Jeff
Hi guys i was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction on how to fix the ac in my truck. From what i have checked so far it has presure in the system and when i hooked it back up and turned the ac on in the truck it did not engage. so i was wondering where to start in trying to get this fixed. any ideas would be helpful by the way it has a 5.0 in it if that matters. Thanks Jack
> Hi guys i was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction on > how to fix the ac in my truck. From what i have checked so far it has > presure in the system and when i hooked it back up and turned the ac on in > the truck it did not engage. so i was wondering where to start in trying to > get this fixed. any ideas would be helpful > by the way it has a 5.0 in it if that matters. > Thanks Jack
Jack, How much pressure in the system? It won’t kick on unless there is around 20-25 psi (low-side) in the system. The low pressure cut-off switch prevents the A/C from kicking on when gas levels are low to prevent system damage. To get a low-side reading you need to jump the compressor to get it to kick on: 1) The A/C compressor has a two-wire harness leading to it. The dark green wire is positive, the black wire is ground. 2) Using some jumper leads, jump the positive terminal on the compressor to the positive battery terminal, and then jump the ground terninal on the compressor to the negative battery cable. The clutch <should> engage with an audible click and movement. If it doesn’t, there’s the problem! 3) If the clutch does engage, fire the truck up, set climate controls to MAX A/C with the doors wide OPEN. Let it run for a few minutes while holding it at 2000 RPM., then hook a test gauge (can be had at Autozone for $20) to the LOW side access port. Doc
go to a shop that specializes in AC and spend the money.
: Hi guys i was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction on : how to fix the ac in my truck. From what i have checked so far it has : presure in the system and when i hooked it back up and turned the ac on in : the truck it did not engage. so i was wondering where to start in trying to : get this fixed. any ideas would be helpful : : by the way it has a 5.0 in it if that matters. : : : Thanks Jack : :
Hi guys i was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction on how to fix the ac in my truck. From what i have checked so far it has presure in the system and when i hooked it back up and turned the ac on in the truck it did not engage. so i was wondering where to start in trying to get this fixed. any ideas would be helpful by the way it has a 5.0 in it if that matters. Thanks Jack
> Hi guys i was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction on > how to fix the ac in my truck. From what i have checked so far it has > presure in the system and when i hooked it back up and turned the ac on in > the truck it did not engage. so i was wondering where to start in trying to > get this fixed. any ideas would be helpful > by the way it has a 5.0 in it if that matters. > Thanks Jack
Jack, How much pressure in the system? It won’t kick on unless there is around 20-25 psi (low-side) in the system. The low pressure cut-off switch prevents the A/C from kicking on when gas levels are low to prevent system damage. To get a low-side reading you need to jump the compressor to get it to kick on: 1) The A/C compressor has a two-wire harness leading to it. The dark green wire is positive, the black wire is ground. 2) Using some jumper leads, jump the positive terminal on the compressor to the positive battery terminal, and then jump the ground terninal on the compressor to the negative battery cable. The clutch <should> engage with an audible click and movement. If it doesn’t, there’s the problem! 3) If the clutch does engage, fire the truck up, set climate controls to MAX A/C with the doors wide OPEN. Let it run for a few minutes while holding it at 2000 RPM., then hook a test gauge (can be had at Autozone for $20) to the LOW side access port. Doc
go to a shop that specializes in AC and spend the money.
: Hi guys i was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction on : how to fix the ac in my truck. From what i have checked so far it has : presure in the system and when i hooked it back up and turned the ac on in : the truck it did not engage. so i was wondering where to start in trying to : get this fixed. any ideas would be helpful : : by the way it has a 5.0 in it if that matters. : : : Thanks Jack : :