Turtle & CB has explained your situation and how to fix. So, I will type no further. — kjpro _-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_> Want it done yesterday? Or done right today, to save money tomorrow!! _>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi All, > I recently had my heater/ac unit replaced, and it seems noisier than the old > unit. Our old house has no subfloor, which I know is part of the problem, in > addition to it being located under our dining room. I would like to quiet > things down a bit and thought of cutting either ceiling tiles or thicker > sheetrock to size and shove up into the joists. A traditional ceiling is not > possible; too many things in the way. > Which might be better? Anyone have experience with this? Any other > suggestions? Thanks. > — > Rick
Thanks for the ideas. — Rick – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Turtle & CB has explained your situation and how to fix. > So, I will type no further. > — > kjpro > _-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_> > Want it done yesterday? Or done right today, to save money tomorrow!! > _>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_> > Hi All, > I recently had my heater/ac unit replaced, and it seems noisier than the > old > unit. Our old house has no subfloor, which I know is part of the problem, > in > addition to it being located under our dining room. I would like to quiet > things down a bit and thought of cutting either ceiling tiles or thicker > sheetrock to size and shove up into the joists. A traditional ceiling is > not > possible; too many things in the way. > Which might be better? Anyone have experience with this? Any other > suggestions? Thanks. > — > Rick
This is a common complaint when the installers and or salemen do NOT do a manual D duct sizing calculation when selling you a new unit. If you have air noise, this would be reason #1..what so many overlook is that the duct system is part of the HVAC system, just as important as the actual mechanical parts themselves. If you have operation noise, it could be due to any one of a number of reasons, but the most common is bad mounting procedures. Turtle states the correct parts to fix the problem if its more of a vibration issue…of course, in all honesty, not being able to hear your issue is part of our problem and we cant give you a one size fits all solution.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi All, > I recently had my heater/ac unit replaced, and it seems noisier than the old > unit. Our old house has no subfloor, which I know is part of the problem, in > addition to it being located under our dining room. I would like to quiet > things down a bit and thought of cutting either ceiling tiles or thicker > sheetrock to size and shove up into the joists. A traditional ceiling is not > possible; too many things in the way. > Which might be better? Anyone have experience with this? Any other > suggestions? Thanks. > — > Rick
Hi All, I recently had my heater/ac unit replaced, and it seems noisier than the old unit. Our old house has no subfloor, which I know is part of the problem, in addition to it being located under our dining room. I would like to quiet things down a bit and thought of cutting either ceiling tiles or thicker sheetrock to size and shove up into the joists. A traditional ceiling is not possible; too many things in the way. Which might be better? Anyone have experience with this? Any other suggestions? Thanks. — Rick
> Hi All, > I recently had my heater/ac unit replaced, and it seems noisier than the old > unit. Our old house has no subfloor, which I know is part of the problem, in > addition to it being located under our dining room. I would like to quiet > things down a bit and thought of cutting either ceiling tiles or thicker > sheetrock to size and shove up into the joists. A traditional ceiling is not > possible; too many things in the way. > Which might be better? Anyone have experience with this? Any other > suggestions? Thanks. > — > Rick
This is Turtle. Are you talking about air noise or noise from equipment running. If it is air noise. increase the return size and line return line with accustic tile. If it is equipment noise get you some shock pads from the HVAC warehouse to set the furnace on to cut down on vibration. Get you 4 — 1′ X 1′ X 1" pades and put furnace on them. Every hvac warehouse has them and the installer can get them real eazy. They also come in 4" X 4" X 1" pade which will do just as good. TURTLE
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > The ceiling is certainly cheaper than the shower to replace and a plumber > should be able to get to it to do a repair if it is a leaking pipe. Be sure > to > check for a split in the bottom of the shower if you can not find an obvious > leak in the pipes. > > I finished my upstairs about a year ago. I hve a bath in my daughters > > side. > > This is stand up shower shell. I noticed were in the bedroom downstairs > > I could notice the > > ceilings show water. > > My son has gone to college and we are never on that end of the house. I > > went into the hallway > > and looked at the ceiling and there was a damp spot. I stuck my finger > > through there > > and made a hole. Well I noticed what when my daughter uses the shower > > water leaks. > > Now it comes out that hole into a bucket. > > This is a straight shot to the shower. What are the steps to figure this > > one out how to fix. > > Do I just start tearing out my ceiling to expose the return pipe from > > upstairs. > > I jUST got through last month from a leak from the sink. It was a short > > return pipe. > > It leaked in the downstairs bath.. > > The builders did a good job just bad bad plumbing. > > Were do I start?? > > David > > Jackson Tenn were the Tornado left us in a mess > Yep. Cut open the rotted ceiling at least big enough that > you can see up in there. The ceiling will need to be patched > up anyway. > If it is the drain fitting in the shower base, check to see > if the base flexes when stepped on. If flexing is a problem, > put a rubber "Mission" coupling in the drain line to absorb > some of the flex (after you fix the leak). > Jim
To all the above I add: use your eyes in the shower area first. All the grouting and caulk must be perfect. The slightest crack can cause serious leaks. Something seldom thought of is that there can be negative pressure in various areas of the house that cause minor cracks to suck water in more than you would expect. Pay particular attention to the drain seal. I have seen people clean so agressively they pull seals right out. Sometimes a well applied silicone sealer will last a long time there. If the leak is in the drain pipes and fittings below then, of course, replace as needed.
The ceiling is certainly cheaper than the shower to replace and a plumber should be able to get to it to do a repair if it is a leaking pipe. Be sure to check for a split in the bottom of the shower if you can not find an obvious leak in the pipes. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I finished my upstairs about a year ago. I hve a bath in my daughters > side. > This is stand up shower shell. I noticed were in the bedroom downstairs > I could notice the > ceilings show water. > My son has gone to college and we are never on that end of the house. I > went into the hallway > and looked at the ceiling and there was a damp spot. I stuck my finger > through there > and made a hole. Well I noticed what when my daughter uses the shower > water leaks. > Now it comes out that hole into a bucket. > This is a straight shot to the shower. What are the steps to figure this > one out how to fix. > Do I just start tearing out my ceiling to expose the return pipe from > upstairs. > I jUST got through last month from a leak from the sink. It was a short > return pipe. > It leaked in the downstairs bath.. > The builders did a good job just bad bad plumbing. > Were do I start?? > David > Jackson Tenn were the Tornado left us in a mess > Yep. Cut open the rotted ceiling at least big enough that > you can see up in there. The ceiling will need to be patched > up anyway. > If it is the drain fitting in the shower base, check to see > if the base flexes when stepped on. If flexing is a problem, > put a rubber "Mission" coupling in the drain line to absorb > some of the flex (after you fix the leak). > Jim
I finished my upstairs about a year ago. I hve a bath in my daughters side. This is stand up shower shell. I noticed were in the bedroom downstairs I could notice the ceilings show water. My son has gone to college and we are never on that end of the house. I went into the hallway and looked at the ceiling and there was a damp spot. I stuck my finger through there and made a hole. Well I noticed what when my daughter uses the shower water leaks. Now it comes out that hole into a bucket. This is a straight shot to the shower. What are the steps to figure this one out how to fix. Do I just start tearing out my ceiling to expose the return pipe from upstairs. I jUST got through last month from a leak from the sink. It was a short return pipe. It leaked in the downstairs bath.. The builders did a good job just bad bad plumbing. Were do I start?? David Jackson Tenn were the Tornado left us in a mess
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I finished my upstairs about a year ago. I hve a bath in my daughters > side. > This is stand up shower shell. I noticed were in the bedroom downstairs > I could notice the > ceilings show water. > My son has gone to college and we are never on that end of the house. I > went into the hallway > and looked at the ceiling and there was a damp spot. I stuck my finger > through there > and made a hole. Well I noticed what when my daughter uses the shower > water leaks. > Now it comes out that hole into a bucket. > This is a straight shot to the shower. What are the steps to figure this > one out how to fix. > Do I just start tearing out my ceiling to expose the return pipe from > upstairs. > I jUST got through last month from a leak from the sink. It was a short > return pipe. > It leaked in the downstairs bath.. > The builders did a good job just bad bad plumbing. > Were do I start?? > David > Jackson Tenn were the Tornado left us in a mess
Yep. Cut open the rotted ceiling at least big enough that you can see up in there. The ceiling will need to be patched up anyway. If it is the drain fitting in the shower base, check to see if the base flexes when stepped on. If flexing is a problem, put a rubber "Mission" coupling in the drain line to absorb some of the flex (after you fix the leak). Jim
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi there — > My family room has an unusual ceiling with individual tiles, and two rows > of tiles have started sagging toward the floor. > It is extremely difficult to get into the attic above the tiles, because > the attic entrance is located inside a small closet and is so narrow that I > can’t even fit through it (and I’m not even overweight!). > I am hoping someone has experience with this sort of ceiling and can > recommend a way to repair it without getting into the attic. If possible, > can you describe how the tiles are held in place, and what I can do to > reattach them? > To make the problem easier to understand I have some pictures on the > following web page: http://www.mciwebnet.com/ceiling/ > Thanks much! > FA
Those are tongue & groove and usually either glued up to…… who knows what….. sheetrock or thin plywood. Or sometimes stapled up (staples are in the joints out of sight) to 1×2 or 1×4 stringers. Since you have a long row of effected tiles, I’m thinking they are glued and the glue has let go due to either moisture or possibly dried out along a heat duct or something. They are actually quite fragile and you will need to handle them very carefully. I would use a good sharp razor knife to cut along the joint on 3 sides of one and see what you find up there.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi there — > My family room has an unusual ceiling with individual tiles, and two rows > of tiles have started sagging toward the floor. > It is extremely difficult to get into the attic above the tiles, because > the attic entrance is located inside a small closet and is so narrow that > I > can’t even fit through it (and I’m not even overweight!). > I am hoping someone has experience with this sort of ceiling and can > recommend a way to repair it without getting into the attic. If possible, > can you describe how the tiles are held in place, and what I can do to > reattach them? > To make the problem easier to understand I have some pictures on the > following web page: http://www.mciwebnet.com/ceiling/ > Thanks much! > FA > Those are tongue & groove and usually either glued up to…… who knows > what….. sheetrock or thin plywood. > Or sometimes stapled up (staples are in the joints out of sight) to 1×2 or > 1×4 stringers. > Since you have a long row of effected tiles, I’m thinking they are glued and > the glue has let go due to either moisture or possibly dried out along a > heat duct or something. > They are actually quite fragile and you will need to handle them very > carefully. I would use a good sharp razor knife to cut along the joint on 3 > sides of one and see what you find up there.
How old is house? From the look of the tile, and the edge trim, these look to be 1960s at the newest. Since this stuff was usually put up to cover older problem ceilings, that makes me suspect they were glued to plaster, which has detached from the lathe. I have seen on TOH, a system whereby they drill through plaster, and inject glue, and draw it up with butterfly anchors. If you can surgically remove a few tiles and gain a hole to work through, you might be able to do something like that. If the tile you remove gets damaged, you can pretty much forget about matching it. As a ‘nothing to lose’ alternative, you can try pushing up on sagged area, and running drywall screws through the sag, in hopes of hitting lathe or a joist, and then patching over the screws with dabs of joint compound. If you can get the texture right, and match the color with a little craft paint, it might not be too obvious. Or just paint the whole ceiling- may be less work. Use lots of screws, they’re cheap, and plaster is heavy. Personally, I’d tear down the ceiling, repair it right, and get it over with. Not expensive, just VERY messy and time-consuming. In your case, that means making a usable attic access hole somewhere, or cutting a temporary hole in living room ceiling to get up there and remove the (probably) blown-in insulation before you tear down the plaster. Replace with fiberglas batts before you nail up last piece of drywall, or figure out a way to put in a hidden panel in ceiling as you drywall it. aem sends….
Hi there — My family room has an unusual ceiling with individual tiles, and two rows of tiles have started sagging toward the floor. It is extremely difficult to get into the attic above the tiles, because the attic entrance is located inside a small closet and is so narrow that I can’t even fit through it (and I’m not even overweight!). I am hoping someone has experience with this sort of ceiling and can recommend a way to repair it without getting into the attic. If possible, can you describe how the tiles are held in place, and what I can do to reattach them? To make the problem easier to understand I have some pictures on the following web page: http://www.mciwebnet.com/ceiling/ Thanks much! FA
My very own dad had a near identical situation. The tiles were glued to sheetrock, and a water leak had softened the sheetrock. He would have had to replace the whole thing to make it look right, so he skipped the tile and went with new sheetrock finished nice and smooth.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi there — > My family room has an unusual ceiling with individual tiles, and two rows > of tiles have started sagging toward the floor. > It is extremely difficult to get into the attic above the tiles, because > the attic entrance is located inside a small closet and is so narrow that I > can’t even fit through it (and I’m not even overweight!). > I am hoping someone has experience with this sort of ceiling and can > recommend a way to repair it without getting into the attic. If possible, > can you describe how the tiles are held in place, and what I can do to > reattach them? > To make the problem easier to understand I have some pictures on the > following web page: http://www.mciwebnet.com/ceiling/ > Thanks much! > FA
>why not just buy the support rails that are made for the lights that hang >from the metal ceiling grid
I’ve looked all over the place for something that looks like it would attach to the bottom of the high-top and transfer the weight to the metal grid. I don’t even know if there is such a thing, since as far as I know (which isn’t very far), these recessed lights aren’t supposed to be used at all with a hanging ceiling. Are there such brackets? If so, do you know what they are called and where I could find them?
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->1. Can you remove and replace the bowing tiles without destroying the >ceiling..i.e. are they "drop in" or "tongue and groove"? >Yeah, they can be easily replaced. They are standard drop-in 2′x2′ tiles. >They style is similar to what you would see in any office building. >2. Assuming they can be replaced with new tiles easily..(no sense working >with old bowed tiles if you don’t have to..though you could ).it seems to me >that the only problem that you have is that the guy used the "strength – >what strength???" of the ceiling tiles to support heavy light fixtures etc. >I was already assuming I’d have to replace the bowed tiles. My goal is to >not have them bow (and need to be replaced) in the future. I’d guess the >tiles would hold up for a short while, before the bowing would become >noticable. >If that is the REAL problem, wouldn’t just drilling the edge moulding of the >lights ( or figuring out some sort of "clip" to use instead of drilling ) >and inserting long wood screws into the overhead flooring for REAL support >solve the problem? i.e. hang the fixtures by themselves, with the ceiling >tiles just surrounding them! >You might have to fasten a 2 x 4 between the ceiling studs to give you >something better to screw your support screws into, rather than just the sub >floor…but…if I see the problem correctly…wouldn’t this support system >do the job for you??? >There is a couple of inches between the top of the can and the sub-floor. >A 2×4 might fit in there. I am concerned about having the top of the the >high-top connected to anything because of heat, though. >Kevin
why not just buy the support rails that are made for the lights that hang from the metal ceiling grid
>1. Can you remove and replace the bowing tiles without destroying the >ceiling..i.e. are they "drop in" or "tongue and groove"?
Yeah, they can be easily replaced. They are standard drop-in 2′x2′ tiles. They style is similar to what you would see in any office building. >2. Assuming they can be replaced with new tiles easily..(no sense working >with old bowed tiles if you don’t have to..though you could ).it seems to me >that the only problem that you have is that the guy used the "strength – >what strength???" of the ceiling tiles to support heavy light fixtures etc.
I was already assuming I’d have to replace the bowed tiles. My goal is to not have them bow (and need to be replaced) in the future. I’d guess the tiles would hold up for a short while, before the bowing would become noticable. >If that is the REAL problem, wouldn’t just drilling the edge moulding of the >lights ( or figuring out some sort of "clip" to use instead of drilling ) >and inserting long wood screws into the overhead flooring for REAL support >solve the problem? i.e. hang the fixtures by themselves, with the ceiling >tiles just surrounding them! >You might have to fasten a 2 x 4 between the ceiling studs to give you >something better to screw your support screws into, rather than just the sub >floor…but…if I see the problem correctly…wouldn’t this support system >do the job for you???
There is a couple of inches between the top of the can and the sub-floor. A 2×4 might fit in there. I am concerned about having the top of the the high-top connected to anything because of heat, though. Kevin
>The way I would tackle this problem is to glue some stiffeners on the top of >the hanging tiles. I assume that the tiles sit in some sort of metal >hanging framework and you can remove the individual tiles. Use something >like 1×2 or 1×3 pieces of wood glued to the tiles, spanning nearly to the >edge of the tile to add stiffness. The long dimension of the 1x should be >vertical as the stiffness goes as the cube of the height. Because the tiles >probably have taken a permanent set, you probably will have to clamp the >wood to the tile until the glue dries. This might be done by simply putting >the tiles on the floor and weighting the glued assembly until it dries.
The tiles do hang on a metal framework. I’m going to replace the tiles this time, because the bowing is really bad. My goal is to prevent the need for future replacement. However, I don’t think I can mount the wide dimension of the 1x board vertically, because the high-tops have clamps that come down to attach to the top of whatever surface the high tops are connected to. I’d like to attach these clamps to the board. If the board is mounted vertically, they wouldn’t fit inside these clamps. However, having a 1x laying flat might work. Thanks for the suggestion. Kevin
>Lay in fixtures normally sit in the grid. This type install requires about >six inches between finish grid and joists. >Your choices don’t allow this install. I think you have strip flourescent >fixtures from your post. I suggest you look at taking the strip fixtures >and fastening them to the subfloor or scab blocks between the joists. Buy >some "troffer" lens material and lay in the grid. The light will diffuse >through the lens.
I don’t have flourescent fixtures. They are standard recessed light cans, about 6" in diameter. They are resting on the hanging ceiling tiles. The rest of what you said went way over my head. >The grilles require a different solution. Get a few new tiles (hope you can >match what is there, as all brands and model #’s are different). You cannot >straighten out bowed tile effectively. This time cut up some 1/4" or >thicker plywood backers for the tile, fasten the grilles to the backer >through the tile. Fasten duct shoe to same plywood with the appropriate >hole cut in it. The plywood needs to be cut large enough to bear on the >grid at least one direction. Normal grid is 2′ x 4′, requiring a rip about >23 3/4.
The grid is 2′x2′. But if I understand, I should cut a piece of plywood just slightly smaller than the tile and use that for support? Thanks! Kevin
Lay in fixtures normally sit in the grid. This type install requires about six inches between finish grid and joists. Your choices don’t allow this install. I think you have strip flourescent fixtures from your post. I suggest you look at taking the strip fixtures and fastening them to the subfloor or scab blocks between the joists. Buy some "troffer" lens material and lay in the grid. The light will diffuse through the lens. The grilles require a different solution. Get a few new tiles (hope you can match what is there, as all brands and model #’s are different). You cannot straighten out bowed tile effectively. This time cut up some 1/4" or thicker plywood backers for the tile, fasten the grilles to the backer through the tile. Fasten duct shoe to same plywood with the appropriate hole cut in it. The plywood needs to be cut large enough to bear on the grid at least one direction. Normal grid is 2′ x 4′, requiring a rip about 23 3/4. Hope this helps. Feel free to ask me additional questions. — @@@@@@@@ Keep the whole world singing . . . . . . . Dan & Dee Griffin
1. Can you remove and replace the bowing tiles without destroying the ceiling..i.e. are they "drop in" or "tongue and groove"? 2. Assuming they can be replaced with new tiles easily..(no sense working with old bowed tiles if you don’t have to..though you could ).it seems to me that the only problem that you have is that the guy used the "strength – what strength???" of the ceiling tiles to support heavy light fixtures etc. If that is the REAL problem, wouldn’t just drilling the edge moulding of the lights ( or figuring out some sort of "clip" to use instead of drilling ) and inserting long wood screws into the overhead flooring for REAL support solve the problem? i.e. hang the fixtures by themselves, with the ceiling tiles just surrounding them! You might have to fasten a 2 x 4 between the ceiling studs to give you something better to screw your support screws into, rather than just the sub floor…but…if I see the problem correctly…wouldn’t this support system do the job for you??? — regards, RichG .
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am a newbie homeowner. I moved into my house knowing about the > problem I’m going to describe, and am now looking to fix it: > One of the previous owners installed a hanging ceiling in the > basement. For lighting, he cut holes in the hanging tiles and > installed the recessed lights resting on the tiles, which has > caused them to bow. In addition, he also has some circular air > vents installed the same way, and the tiles they’re on are also > bowing. > There is only about 3-4" clearance between the bottom of the > wood joists and the ceiling. The tiles are standard 2′x2′ tiles. > I’d love to hear some ideas on how to fix this.
I am a newbie homeowner. I moved into my house knowing about the problem I’m going to describe, and am now looking to fix it: One of the previous owners installed a hanging ceiling in the basement. For lighting, he cut holes in the hanging tiles and installed the recessed lights resting on the tiles, which has caused them to bow. In addition, he also has some circular air vents installed the same way, and the tiles they’re on are also bowing. There is only about 3-4" clearance between the bottom of the wood joists and the ceiling. The tiles are standard 2′x2′ tiles. I’d love to hear some ideas on how to fix this.
The way I would tackle this problem is to glue some stiffeners on the top of the hanging tiles. I assume that the tiles sit in some sort of metal hanging framework and you can remove the individual tiles. Use something like 1×2 or 1×3 pieces of wood glued to the tiles, spanning nearly to the edge of the tile to add stiffness. The long dimension of the 1x should be vertical as the stiffness goes as the cube of the height. Because the tiles probably have taken a permanent set, you probably will have to clamp the wood to the tile until the glue dries. This might be done by simply putting the tiles on the floor and weighting the glued assembly until it dries. Dick Lucas – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I am a newbie homeowner. I moved into my house knowing about the >problem I’m going to describe, and am now looking to fix it: >One of the previous owners installed a hanging ceiling in the >basement. For lighting, he cut holes in the hanging tiles and >installed the recessed lights resting on the tiles, which has >caused them to bow. In addition, he also has some circular air >vents installed the same way, and the tiles they’re on are also >bowing. >There is only about 3-4" clearance between the bottom of the >wood joists and the ceiling. The tiles are standard 2′x2′ tiles. >I’d love to hear some ideas on how to fix this.
correct I tried regluing, even scraped all the foam off both sides but it will not hold, you will need to get new fabric. Eugene – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >so, you have to replace the whole ceiling? there’s no way to just glue it >back up? >jeremy > I’s rather pay the $150 for someone who knew what they were doing… > instead of doing tricks. > mH > > > In order to do the job right, the fiberboard panel needs to come > > out. All > > > the plastic trim around the sides had to come off but not without > > breaking > > > some of the retainer clips (replaceable). Then, just to aggravate me > > even > > > more, the panel would not come out without REMOVING the whole DOOR! > > A headliner guy can take the board out in ten minutes without removing > > the door. It’s a special trick, but that’s why we charge $150. > > Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.
ok, so since someone seems to know a lil about car headliners….. I need help also…. I know it has nothing to do w/ GM, but I have a 1953 Packard Clipper, it needs a headliner, I realize that its a totally different kind, and I have the support bars. I priced having it done at somewhere around $150. Does that sound right, or do you have any idea??? Jeremy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > so, you have to replace the whole ceiling? there’s no way to just glue it > back up? > jeremy > I’s rather pay the $150 for someone who knew what they were doing… > instead of doing tricks. > mH > > > In order to do the job right, the fiberboard panel needs to come > > out. All > > > the plastic trim around the sides had to come off but not without > > breaking > > > some of the retainer clips (replaceable). Then, just to aggravate me > > even > > > more, the panel would not come out without REMOVING the whole DOOR! > > A headliner guy can take the board out in ten minutes without removing > > the door. It’s a special trick, but that’s why we charge $150. > > Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.
I watch Classic cars on TNN Sundays, lots of info on restoring older cars. Try Hemmings motor news, they too have lots of ads for parts. mH – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > ok, so since someone seems to know a lil about car headliners….. I need > help also…. I know it has nothing to do w/ GM, but I have a 1953 Packard > Clipper, it needs a headliner, I realize that its a totally different kind, > and I have the support bars. I priced having it done at somewhere around > $150. Does that sound right, or do you have any idea??? > Jeremy > so, you have to replace the whole ceiling? there’s no way to just glue it > back up? > jeremy > > I’s rather pay the $150 for someone who knew what they were doing… > > instead of doing tricks. > > mH > > > > In order to do the job right, the fiberboard panel needs to come > > > out. All > > > > the plastic trim around the sides had to come off but not without > > > breaking > > > > some of the retainer clips (replaceable). Then, just to aggravate > me > > > even > > > > more, the panel would not come out without REMOVING the whole DOOR! > > > A headliner guy can take the board out in ten minutes without removing > > > the door. It’s a special trick, but that’s why we charge $150. > > > Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.
I’s rather pay the $150 for someone who knew what they were doing… instead of doing tricks. mH – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> In order to do the job right, the fiberboard panel needs to come > out. All > the plastic trim around the sides had to come off but not without > breaking > some of the retainer clips (replaceable). Then, just to aggravate me > even > more, the panel would not come out without REMOVING the whole DOOR! > A headliner guy can take the board out in ten minutes without removing > the door. It’s a special trick, but that’s why we charge $150. > Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.
so, you have to replace the whole ceiling? there’s no way to just glue it back up? jeremy
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’s rather pay the $150 for someone who knew what they were doing… > instead of doing tricks. > mH > > In order to do the job right, the fiberboard panel needs to come > out. All > > the plastic trim around the sides had to come off but not without > breaking > > some of the retainer clips (replaceable). Then, just to aggravate me > even > > more, the panel would not come out without REMOVING the whole DOOR! > A headliner guy can take the board out in ten minutes without removing > the door. It’s a special trick, but that’s why we charge $150. > Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.
No, the backing dries out and it’s impossible to reglue it. mH – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > so, you have to replace the whole ceiling? there’s no way to just glue it > back up? > jeremy > I’s rather pay the $150 for someone who knew what they were doing… > instead of doing tricks. > mH > > > In order to do the job right, the fiberboard panel needs to come > > out. All > > > the plastic trim around the sides had to come off but not without > > breaking > > > some of the retainer clips (replaceable). Then, just to aggravate me > > even > > > more, the panel would not come out without REMOVING the whole DOOR! > > A headliner guy can take the board out in ten minutes without removing > > the door. It’s a special trick, but that’s why we charge $150. > > Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.
I had the same problem in a 86 Olds Cutlass. The spray glue won’t stick to the dried out foam headliner form. You can’t get the foam form out of the car unless you remove the windshield. I ended up buying a replacement headliner from J.C. Whitney. The replacement is easy to install, uses no glue, and is available in many colors. The kit is already trimmed to fit the width, you only need to trim the length. There’s an arrow on the back for direction, and the only tool you’ll need is a dull flat putty knife or an upholstery tool to stuff the excess material into the factory trim. The kit is about $50 and another $7 for shipping. mH
Very interesting solutions. Thanks for your input. **** Posted from RemarQ – http://www.remarq.com – Discussions Start Here ™ ****
I had an 85 Buick Century with the same problem. After tearing off the rest of the fabric and living with the bare fiberboard backer for about two years, I went to the local upholstery supply house and bought headliner fabric and spray contact adhesive. What a job! In order to do the job right, the fiberboard panel needs to come out. All the plastic trim around the sides had to come off but not without breaking some of the retainer clips (replaceable). Then, just to aggravate me even more, the panel would not come out without REMOVING the whole DOOR! Once I did that, I sprayed the panel and the fabric with the adhesive and carefully smoothed out the fabric, trimmed the edges and reinstalled the panel. Now I know why I was quoted about $200 to do the job. Doesn’t look as good as a professional job, but good enough because I’m selling the car. I only spent about $12 for the fabric (foam lined), and $6 for the adhesive. However, I figure the aggravation was worth about $500. I suggest having a professional do it unless you’re into frustration. Frank >I have a 1988 Olds Delta 88 (not that it matters) that has a >felt ceiling, where the felt if falling down. The previous >owner had put staples in the ceiling, but they are falling >out. Is there any way to permanantly fix this problem? >Thanks >BarCop >**** Posted from RemarQ – http://www.remarq.com – Discussions Start Here
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> In order to do the job right, the fiberboard panel needs to come out. All > the plastic trim around the sides had to come off but not without breaking > some of the retainer clips (replaceable). Then, just to aggravate me even > more, the panel would not come out without REMOVING the whole DOOR!
A headliner guy can take the board out in ten minutes without removing the door. It’s a special trick, but that’s why we charge $150. Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.
I did it on a 86 Olds Cutlas. That might work on a 2 door, on a 4 door there’s no way it’s coming out in one piece. Maybe going out the windshield is a little extreme, but I use to do installs and it isn’t much of a big deal to remove it. After thinking a bit, I could have removed the front seat and flipped the headliner sideways. BUT! The J.C. Whitney kit was easy to install, no glue, and it still looks perfect. mH – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > You don’t need to remove the windshield to install a headliner. > 1) Disconnect the negative side of the battery > 2) Remove the center dome light fixture. it’s held on by circular clips. If > you brake on they can be had at most well stock hardware stores. > 3) Remove sun visors > 4) Remove all the trim surrounding the headliner board > 5) Pull it down gently and remove it out the front passenger door opening. > be sure the seat are back full. > 6) Clean the board carefully with a Wisk brush or very,very carefully use a > wire brush. > 7) Apply spray 3m contact cement to both sides. . .the board and the foam. > what a bit to let it dry some, but don’t wait to long! Have a friend help > you place it on the board, and press down with your whole hands, not your > fingers. > 
reinstall > Note: the proper way is to use a spray gun with contact glue. > Bruce > For more details: www.iolt.com/vestry/autoconcepts.htm
You don’t need to remove the windshield to install a headliner. 1) Disconnect the negative side of the battery 2) Remove the center dome light fixture. it’s held on by circular clips. If you brake on they can be had at most well stock hardware stores. 3) Remove sun visors 4) Remove all the trim surrounding the headliner board 5) Pull it down gently and remove it out the front passenger door opening. be sure the seat are back full. 6) Clean the board carefully with a Wisk brush or very,very carefully use a wire brush. 7) Apply spray 3m contact cement to both sides. . .the board and the foam. what a bit to let it dry some, but don’t wait to long! Have a friend help you place it on the board, and press down with your whole hands, not your fingers. reinstall Note: the proper way is to use a spray gun with contact glue. Bruce For more details: www.iolt.com/vestry/autoconcepts.htm
right! I’ve been getting that last issue unless I order for the last 25 years! not braging here… had 3 stangs…all at the same time too. a 66 6 cyl 3 speed with a bench seat red/black a 66 8 cyl 2bbl auto dr blue/light blue a 66 fastback 8 cyl 4bbl 4 speed black/black wish I still had them all. Scott
NOW you tell me about J.C Whitney’s kit! Haven’t bought anything from them since I was a teen with a souped up ‘65 ‘Stang 2+2 Fastback! Loooong time ago! Used to read their catalogs from cover to cover (for the articles you understand). Not as interesting as Playboy, but definitely inspirational. (chuckle) Frank – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I had the same problem in a 86 Olds Cutlass. The spray glue won’t stick >to the dried out foam headliner form. You can’t get the foam form out >of the car unless you remove the windshield. I ended up buying a >replacement headliner from J.C. Whitney. The replacement is easy to >install, uses no glue, and is available in many colors. The kit is >already trimmed to fit the width, you only need to trim the length. >There’s an arrow on the back for direction, and the only tool you’ll >need is a dull flat putty knife or an upholstery tool to stuff the >excess material into the factory trim. The kit is about $50 and another >$7 for shipping. > mH
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I had an 85 Buick Century with the same problem. After tearing off the rest >of the fabric and living with the bare fiberboard backer for about two >years, I went to the local upholstery supply house and bought headliner >fabric and spray contact adhesive. What a job! >In order to do the job right, the fiberboard panel needs to come out. All >the plastic trim around the sides had to come off but not without breaking >some of the retainer clips (replaceable). Then, just to aggravate me even >more, the panel would not come out without REMOVING the whole DOOR! Once I >did that, I sprayed the panel and the fabric with the adhesive and carefully >smoothed out the fabric, trimmed the edges and reinstalled the panel. Now I >know why I was quoted about $200 to do the job. Doesn’t look as good as a >professional job, but good enough because I’m selling the car. I only spent >about $12 for the fabric (foam lined), and $6 for the adhesive. However, I >figure the aggravation was worth about $500. I suggest having a >professional do it unless you’re into frustration. >Frank >I have a 1988 Olds Delta 88 (not that it matters) that has a >felt ceiling, where the felt if falling down. The previous >owner had put staples in the ceiling, but they are falling >out. Is there any way to permanantly fix this problem?
My father bought an 87′ Crysler Fifth Avenue. Talk about hard. All of the trim, the back doors, and the rear window trim were covered with the stupid foam backed cloth. I pulled out all of the trim and headliner. I used acetone to remove the foam and glue from the trim and took a stiff brush and used it to remove the old foam from the headliner. When the foam was removed, the new fabric stuck fine and looked like it was new. I then took the vinyl trim and painted it a matching color. The rear window was difficult. It had a fiberglass trim panel that surrounded the window. It took a while to recloth it and install it. It really saved a lot of money. Most shops wanted upto 500.00 to redo the fabric. I spent at most 50.00 in supplies to redo the interior myseld and I think it looked better without all of that cloth on the trim pieces. Curtis
You can usually get a new one put in for about $100-$150.. Thats about the only permanent solution.
> I have a 1988 Olds Delta 88 (not that it matters) that has a > felt ceiling, where the felt if falling down. The previous > owner had put staples in the ceiling, but they are falling > out. Is there any way to permanantly fix this problem? > Thanks > BarCop > **** Posted from RemarQ – http://www.remarq.com – Discussions Start Here
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I have a 1988 Olds Delta 88 (not that it matters) that has a felt ceiling, where the felt if falling down. The previous owner had put staples in the ceiling, but they are falling out. Is there any way to permanantly fix this problem? Thanks BarCop **** Posted from RemarQ – http://www.remarq.com – Discussions Start Here ™ ****