I know I’m probably not the first to ask this question and apologize for asking it again, if it’s been asked before, but does anyone know how to make a guitar speaker cabinet? I recently bought 4 12" ampeg speakers for like $60 bucks total. Now I want to put them in a cabinet, but I don’t want to pay $200 for an empty cab. I figure I can build one a lot cheaper than what it would cost to buy one and have it shipped. So would anyone out there be able to give me directions on how to build one or lead me to a book that could give detailed step by step instructions on building a 4×12? I’d appreciate any help you can provide. Thanks, Joe
Pay $100 for a second hand cab with duff speakers then. Seriously though, there are so many considerations for building the cab – what it’s for, ruggedness, materials, jointing, design, t/s calculations/simulations for your driver etc. Are you sure/capable/equipped for this one? It can cost a hell of a lot more than $200 especially if you don’t have the tools and even more if you make a mistake. cb
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I know I’m probably not the first to ask this question and apologize for > asking it again, if it’s been asked before, but does anyone know how to make > a guitar speaker cabinet? I recently bought 4 12" ampeg speakers for like > $60 bucks total. Now I want to put them in a cabinet, but I don’t want to > pay $200 for an empty cab. I figure I can build one a lot cheaper than what > it would cost to buy one and have it shipped. So would anyone out there be > able to give me directions on how to build one or lead me to a book that > could give detailed step by step instructions on building a 4×12? I’d > appreciate any help you can provide. > Thanks, > Joe
If you are already gifted in cabinetry or other woodworking stuff, I’ll say go ahead. But if not, I would say the same thing – buy one. Gab.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Pay $100 for a second hand cab with duff speakers then. > Seriously though, there are so many considerations for building the cab – > what it’s for, ruggedness, materials, jointing, design, t/s > calculations/simulations for your driver etc. > Are you sure/capable/equipped for this one? It can cost a hell of a lot more > than $200 especially if you don’t have the tools and even more if you make a > mistake. > cb > I know I’m probably not the first to ask this question and apologize for > asking it again, if it’s been asked before, but does anyone know how to > make > a guitar speaker cabinet? I recently bought 4 12" ampeg speakers for like > $60 bucks total. Now I want to put them in a cabinet, but I don’t want to > pay $200 for an empty cab. I figure I can build one a lot cheaper than > what > it would cost to buy one and have it shipped. So would anyone out there > be > able to give me directions on how to build one or lead me to a book that > could give detailed step by step instructions on building a 4×12? I’d > appreciate any help you can provide. > Thanks, > Joe
Unless what you’re after isn’y on the market? - e.g. an upside down pyramid 3×12? Why not? cb
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If you are already gifted in cabinetry or other woodworking stuff, I’ll say > go ahead. But if not, I would say the same thing – buy one. > Gab. > Pay $100 for a second hand cab with duff speakers then. > Seriously though, there are so many considerations for building the cab – > what it’s for, ruggedness, materials, jointing, design, t/s > calculations/simulations for your driver etc. > Are you sure/capable/equipped for this one? It can cost a hell of a lot > more > than $200 especially if you don’t have the tools and even more if you make > a > mistake. > cb > > I know I’m probably not the first to ask this question and apologize for > > asking it again, if it’s been asked before, but does anyone know how to > make > > a guitar speaker cabinet? I recently bought 4 12" ampeg speakers for > like > > $60 bucks total. Now I want to put them in a cabinet, but I don’t want > to > > pay $200 for an empty cab. I figure I can build one a lot cheaper than > what > > it would cost to buy one and have it shipped. So would anyone out there > be > > able to give me directions on how to build one or lead me to a book that > > could give detailed step by step instructions on building a 4×12? I’d > > appreciate any help you can provide. > > Thanks, > > Joe
> Pay $100 for a second hand cab with duff speakers
[...] ??? I thought they only made beer. Are they farty, then? Andy
http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/cons_cabinets.html tony
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I know I’m probably not the first to ask this question and apologize for > asking it again, if it’s been asked before, but does anyone know how to make > a guitar speaker cabinet? I recently bought 4 12" ampeg speakers for like > $60 bucks total. Now I want to put them in a cabinet, but I don’t want to > pay $200 for an empty cab. I figure I can build one a lot cheaper than what > it would cost to buy one and have it shipped. So would anyone out there be > able to give me directions on how to build one or lead me to a book that > could give detailed step by step instructions on building a 4×12? I’d > appreciate any help you can provide. > Thanks, > Joe
The countertops I have are about 9 years and are in perfect mechanical shape, I want to change the look of them with new formica. They have a fair amount of cuts on them, making countertop replacement more difficult, I wanted to see in this situation, can you rough up the exisiting countertop and recover them with new laminate? I will probably be hiring someone, but would like to be a bit smarter before doing this. Thank you Chris
>The countertops I have are about 9 years and are in perfect mechanical >shape, I want to change the look of them with new formica. They have >a fair amount of cuts on them, making countertop replacement more >difficult, I wanted to see in this situation, can you rough up the >exisiting countertop and recover them with new laminate? I will >probably be hiring someone, but would like to be a bit smarter before >doing this. Thank you >Chris
Are your tops on plywood or particle board? BTW, you can’t do it at all if they are post formed tops.
Not being cynical, just inquisitive: why would it matter what the base of the countertop is made out of, as long as it is in good condition (as stated by the poster) and they just want to put new laminate over the existing laminate then it shouldn’t matter.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->The countertops I have are about 9 years and are in perfect mechanical >shape, I want to change the look of them with new formica. They have >a fair amount of cuts on them, making countertop replacement more >difficult, I wanted to see in this situation, can you rough up the >exisiting countertop and recover them with new laminate? I will >probably be hiring someone, but would like to be a bit smarter before >doing this. Thank you >Chris > Are your tops on plywood or particle board? BTW, you can’t do it at all if > they are post formed tops.
They are particle, none are port formed, all must have been made on site is my guess. So what do you think? Chris – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->The countertops I have are about 9 years and are in perfect mechanical >shape, I want to change the look of them with new formica. They have >a fair amount of cuts on them, making countertop replacement more >difficult, I wanted to see in this situation, can you rough up the >exisiting countertop and recover them with new laminate? I will >probably be hiring someone, but would like to be a bit smarter before >doing this. Thank you >Chris >Are your tops on plywood or particle board? BTW, you can’t do it at all if >they are post formed tops.
Yes, I have done this. Walt Conner >can you rough up the exisiting countertop and recover them with new
laminate? > – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> BTW, you can’t do it at all if they are post formed tops.
>Not being cynical, just inquisitive: why would it matter what the base of >the countertop is made out of, as long as it is in good condition (as stated >by the poster) and they just want to put new laminate over the existing >laminate then it shouldn’t matter.
Because particle board can deteriorate in many places, some that he/she may not have seen or be aware of. Besides, it’s a lousy substrate for a kitchen top (steam out of dishwashers, leaks at sinks/faucets, spills, etc. all lead to its demise).
>They are particle, none are port formed, all must have been made on >site is my guess. >So what do you think?
See my other post in this thread. Make sure it really is sound before spending the money and effort. New plywood will cost much less than the laminate.
I disagree. From the information presented, clearly to me the best choice for the original poster is to simply relaminate over the existing one. Even if it is particle board, if it is working now then it is okay, and considering the cost of laminate and materials (very, very inexpensive) and the labor involved (minimal and easy enough for a novice) I think that’s the way to go. Even if the existing countertop base were to deteriorate, the costs/repair of this DIY project would not be wasted if they got 2 years out of it. Since the original question was posted asking whether laminate over existing laminate could even be done, I infer two things: 1. They want to do it themselves, to keep costs minimal 2. They have no idea how to build a new countertop to put laminate over for these reasons, I think they should simply laminate over the existing countertop.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->They are particle, none are port formed, all must have been made on >site is my guess. >So what do you think? > See my other post in this thread. Make sure it really is sound before spending > the money and effort. New plywood will cost much less than the laminate.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I disagree. From the information presented, clearly to me the best choice >for the original poster is to simply relaminate over the existing one. Even >if it is particle board, if it is working now then it is okay, and >considering the cost of laminate and materials (very, very inexpensive) and >the labor involved (minimal and easy enough for a novice) I think that’s the >way to go. Even if the existing countertop base were to deteriorate, the >costs/repair of this DIY project would not be wasted if they got 2 years out >of it. >Since the original question was posted asking whether laminate over existing >laminate could even be done, I infer two things: >1. They want to do it themselves, to keep costs minimal >2. They have no idea how to build a new countertop to put laminate over >for these reasons, I think they should simply laminate over the existing >countertop.
Whatever happened to doing things right so they would last? Yea, sure it can be covered and it can be covered in place (although it’s far easier to remove the top to laminate). Clean the top with a strong solvent (like laquer thinner) to remove any grease/grime/ect. Sand to remove any gloss and give it a less smooth surface. Whipe down again after sanding. Use a good contact cement.
I’m not gonna beat this dead horse anymore after this post, but what is wrong about doing it this way? Like everything when it comes to home repair, you’ve got to weigh the cost, labor, and knowledge of the homeowner when making decisions. There is nothing wrong with putting laminate over existing laminate countertop in which they have experienced no problems with to this point.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I disagree. From the information presented, clearly to me the best choice >for the original poster is to simply relaminate over the existing one. Even >if it is particle board, if it is working now then it is okay, and >considering the cost of laminate and materials (very, very inexpensive) and >the labor involved (minimal and easy enough for a novice) I think that’s the >way to go. Even if the existing countertop base were to deteriorate, the >costs/repair of this DIY project would not be wasted if they got 2 years out >of it. >Since the original question was posted asking whether laminate over existing >laminate could even be done, I infer two things: >1. They want to do it themselves, to keep costs minimal >2. They have no idea how to build a new countertop to put laminate over >for these reasons, I think they should simply laminate over the existing >countertop. > Whatever happened to doing things right so they would last? Yea, sure it can > be covered and it can be covered in place (although it’s far easier to remove > the top to laminate). > Clean the top with a strong solvent (like laquer thinner) to remove any > grease/grime/ect. Sand to remove any gloss and give it a less smooth surface. > Whipe down again after sanding. Use a good contact cement.
<some material deleted for brevity. Briefly, Mark disagreed!> > Since the original question was posted asking whether laminate over existing > laminate could even be done, I infer two things: > 1. They want to do it themselves, to keep costs minimal
Mark, you didn’t read the original post carefully. Your "disagreement" may be based on an incomplete understanding of the situation. Chris said he probably would * not* be doing it himself, in his words, "I will probably be hiring someone, but would like to be a bit smarter before doing this. Thank you Chris" In other words, (beating a dead horse) he simply wanted to be an informed homeowner before hiring somebody to do a job. I’d go along with the general opinion: if you’re going to do something, do it well! A second layer of laminate might be satisfactory, might not. To my mind, it is sorta like painting the exterior of your house with cheap paint. It will work, won’t it? But how long will it last? Since the labor involved in painting is a much greater percentage of the total cost of painting, it is penny wise, pound foolish to use the cheap paint and stand a very good chance of having to paint the house again in 6 years, rather than 15 or so using good paint.
>I’m not gonna beat this dead horse anymore after this post, but what is >wrong about doing it this way? Like everything when it comes to home repair, >you’ve got to weigh the cost, labor, and knowledge of the homeowner when >making decisions. >There is nothing wrong with putting laminate over existing laminate >countertop in which they have experienced no problems with to this point.
I never said there was anything wrong with covering a laminated surface with another layer of laminate. I’ve refaced dozens and dozens (and dozens) of cabinets. The problem is one has lousy access to do the work if the top is installed and compromises must be made. You have to take out the sink(s), a cooktop (if there is one) and move other appliances. All that is left is to remove a dozen or so screws and the entire top will come off for a far easier and better job of installing the laminate. Now, if you have the top off, why not spring for $50 or $75 bucks worth of plywood and make a whole new top and not even have any particle board to worry about. OK, lets say you aren’t worried about the particle board and it’s in good condition… I would still unfasten the top and then apply the new laminate instead trying to work on it in place.
>CAN ANYONE OUT THERE BUILD A PROPER KOI POND? >IN SEARCH OF THE RIGHT KOI POND BUILDER
Great article that needs to get out to the newbie’s, but for the most part you were preaching to the choir here. ;o) ~ jan
> I started out thinking "This is really a newbie to the fish keeping hobby. >Look at the Caps" <snicker snicker> … Come to find out the guy knows >what he’s talking about.
article he found on the net. Twice. Cheers, Greg
>>Old Japanese proverb: More to koi stuff than meet eye.<<
amen to that! 
kathy-and-the-watergardening-labradors
I started out thinking "This is really a newbie to the fish keeping hobby. Look at the Caps" <snicker snicker> … Come to find out the guy knows what he’s talking about. Nedra www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836
: >>Old Japanese proverb: More to koi stuff than meet eye.<< : : amen to that! : : : : kathy-and-the-watergardening-labradors : : : : :
CAN ANYONE OUT THERE BUILD A PROPER KOI POND? IN SEARCH OF THE RIGHT KOI POND BUILDER In today’s economic environment there is more and more demand for elaborate big houses, gardens, pools, ponds-you name it. And we ought to have what we want, right? So if that’s a beautiful koi pond with knockout landscaping, gorgeous waterfalls and streams and plants and fish, all we have to do is find "Mr. Right" to build it, right? Sounds easy but therein lies the rub. All too many of the swimming pool and water feature/landscape guys with the equipment and technical knowledge either don’t know where to go for information or just refuse to learn what it takes to build a koi pond. Too many swimming pool builders take on pond projects and use the same techniques they’d use for pools; same bottom drains, filters and pumps. Then they call it a fish pond when in fact they’ve missed the mark by miles. The same thing happens with some landscapers who say "Oh yeah, I can build you a koi pond," only to build a water feature just like they’ve been doing only now they call it a fish pond. I’ve seen this sad story repeated over and over in the eleven years I’ve been at this koi keeping hobby. I say sad because these ponds are just not an appropriate habitat for koi and in short order the fish start dying and what should have been a delight turns into disaster. In most cases its not because they intend to deceive, its just a lack of knowledge and sometimes, its just a "water feature is a water feature" mentality (aka no concept). I’m hoping that this article will convince some of the very talented and artistic builders out there to learn that a proper koi pond is different from any other water feature. And if they are willing to read my article on pond building and adhere to and apply the tried and true directions therein, I can pretty much guarantee long term success. There’s a tremendous demand out there and I’m sorry to say there are all too few builders that are up to the task which is why most people end up building their own. After I went to the University of Georgia for their three day crash course in fish health, I came back to New Jersey and started what we call the "Health Hotline," in our Mid-Atlantic Koi Club (www.makc.com). We hear from and respond to people who have problems with their pond or fish or both. I’ll never forget getting a frantic call from a lady here in New Jersey whose fish were dying as we were talking. The 2000 gallon pond had only been been in for about four months, it was late summer, and she had been buying fish regularly from a local garden center. Since she wasn’t far away (and I’m retired so I had time) I went to have a look and to see if I could help. What I saw was a rather nice water garden, two feet deep, about 10 by 12 feet, no bottom drain, no filter system, several plants in pots in the water and a little waterfall. There were about 40 fish anywhere from six to 15 inches long and all the survivors were looking very stressed and some were barely hanging on to life. The water was green and the pH was very high but the killer was ammonia as determined by testing the water. Too many fish, no filtration, algae doing the photosynthesis thing and creating more stress by denying oxygen for part of the day, all were compounding the problem. A 50% water change and a long conversation about koi keeping and the differences between a water garden and a koi pond helped for the future but it was too late for most of the fish. I suggested she switch to a few single-sex goldfish to avoid a population explosion and enjoy her water garden. Needless to say, she was devastated by the loss of her by then, treasured pets, all of which could have been avoided had the builder known how to build a proper koi pond and had appropriately advised the lady on how to make things work. Another troubling case here locally was a swimming pool builder who entered into a contract with a homeowner to build him a fish pond. What the owner got was a miniature shallow concrete swimming pool painted blue (koi ponds should always be black to enhance the viewing of the multi-colored fish) with a two inch bottom drain feeding a typical swimming pool sand filter with a
>Hi all! >Does anyone have any plans or ideas for a home-built minnow trap?
One of my previous posts in the "What to do with gambusia?"" thread has a description of how to build a homemade minnow trap out of a 2L-bottle. My HOMEPAGE: www.floridadriftwood.com My eBay Driftwood and Plants: http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/boukmn/
Oh yah! Someone posted it earlier this month somewhere. I think it was ingenious. Take a two liter soda bottle… cut off the top third… turn it around and push it back into the bottom half… and voila, a minnow trap. You have to punch holes in the bottom for water exchange, and a attach a string for retrieval is all. Then just pull the top out to dump minnows. ~~~~~~~waving! Joanie 
}
Aloha, As a kid in Switzerland, I learned how to catch minnows for bait using a champagne bottle. Just used it recently to move some small fish to a new pond. Using a heavy spike and a hammer, punch out the innermost piece of the glass that sticks up at the bottom of the bottle. Put a cork, or other stopper in the neck, and tie a string around it, put in a piece of bread and lower it into your pond. It does require a little care in punching out and smoothing the glass, and watching out around rocks in your pond, but it is a lot more fun to empty than the 2L bottles. –Steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all! > Does anyone have any plans or ideas for a home-built minnow trap? > TIA, > Jacqui
Hi all! Does anyone have any plans or ideas for a home-built minnow trap? TIA, Jacqui
you can buy them at most bait shops or places like fleet farm or walmart. go there, see how they are made. copy it., —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
>Hi all! >Does anyone have any plans or ideas for a home-built minnow trap?
One of my previous posts in the "What to do with gambusia?"" thread has a description of how to build a homemade minnow trap out of a 2L-bottle. My HOMEPAGE: www.floridadriftwood.com My eBay Driftwood and Plants: http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/boukmn/
Oh yah! Someone posted it earlier this month somewhere. I think it was ingenious. Take a two liter soda bottle… cut off the top third… turn it around and push it back into the bottom half… and voila, a minnow trap. You have to punch holes in the bottom for water exchange, and a attach a string for retrieval is all. Then just pull the top out to dump minnows. ~~~~~~~waving! Joanie }
Aloha, As a kid in Switzerland, I learned how to catch minnows for bait using a champagne bottle. Just used it recently to move some small fish to a new pond. Using a heavy spike and a hammer, punch out the innermost piece of the glass that sticks up at the bottom of the bottle. Put a cork, or other stopper in the neck, and tie a string around it, put in a piece of bread and lower it into your pond. It does require a little care in punching out and smoothing the glass, and watching out around rocks in your pond, but it is a lot more fun to empty than the 2L bottles. –Steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all! > Does anyone have any plans or ideas for a home-built minnow trap? > TIA, > Jacqui
Hi all! Does anyone have any plans or ideas for a home-built minnow trap? TIA, Jacqui
you can buy them at most bait shops or places like fleet farm or walmart. go there, see how they are made. copy it., —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
Im thinking of using a skimmer(driven by a pump) as the driving recirculator in my new pond. It is a 200 gallon preform. Will this work out alright, and does anyone have any good designs? I was planning on placing a submersible pump in a tub that sits just below the surface. A screen would gather the debris in the bucket, and the pump would move the screened water to the out-of-pond bio-filter. Thanks -jugabee
Here’s one that seems easy to make. http://soli.inav.net/~bickal/skimmer.htm And this ready-made skimmer that doesn’t have to be built into the wall has a decent price. http://www.aquaart.com/skimmer.html#intake If you come across any others link me up. I’m still in the learning and collecting info stage. I’m looking for plain and simple and easy to do for a novice ponder. I hope to bypass all the mistakes newbies make with all the knowledge shared in this NG. It’s an endless source of valuable info here!!! Love it!!! })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
Hello, > . . . > And this ready-made skimmer that doesn’t have to be built > into the wall has a decent price. > http://www.aquaart.com/skimmer.html#intake
My watergarden currently has two of the "No Nitch" skimmers. I have been very happy with their operation. Each large pond has a skimmer which draws in the surface water into a Supreme 1800 pump. An OxyMax venturi is on the output side of each pump. These two pumps just pull in the surface water, and blow bubbles near the bottom of the pond. The goldfish LOVE to play in the bubbles. Another group of four Supreme 1800 pumps are used to move the water through the system. The goldfish have waterfalls, fast-moving currents, and bubbles to play in. They spend hours "surfing", "swimming upstream", and swimming through the bubbles. Bonnie Lee Hill Dallas, Texas
Ha.. And miss all the fun.. Not me 
Dig first. Water will find a way in. Fish and toads soon will follow Before you know it, its time to dig again. Jagath (just yanking some chain My story: Bought house with small puddle. Lots of rotting vegetation and leaves from last fall. Cleaned up a bit, try to foolishly lower the pH. Added a few comets and rosy reds. Water turned green when whether got warmer. Pondered using CSA, but kept removing rotting stuff and kept the waterfall running. Rewarded with clear water, lots of string algae and healthy looking comets. pH is off the scale (>8), but I’m not worrying about it anymore. The puddle is looking awfully small. Fortunately other stuff is preventing me from picking up the shovel. Maybe next year. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > If you come across any others link me up. I’m still in the learning and > collecting info stage. I’m looking for plain and simple and easy to do for a > novice ponder. I hope to bypass all the mistakes newbies make with all the > knowledge shared in this NG. It’s an endless source of valuable info here!!!
Is a skimmer a necessity or a luxury item? I’m putting in a 1200 gallon pond with a bottom drain and a sizable filter. Do I need one? Thanks Stephen
I am also interested in the answer to this question.
Well, how much of a problem to you have with leaves? The skimmer will catch a lot of ‘em before they sink to the bottom. It’s there to catch a lot of the floaty stuff that inevitably lands in your pond, and because it’s in the skimmer and the net can be pulled out, it’s a lot easier to clean than the bottom of your pond! Mine also does double duty as the place where my pump lives. Lee
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Is a skimmer a necessity or a luxury item? > I’m putting in a 1200 gallon pond with a bottom drain and a sizable filter. > Do I need one? > Thanks > Stephen
I have been studying whether to install one on my new pond or not. The pro’s for me were the clear surface on the top of the water and the pump being out of the pond. You always have small particles and leaves floating on the top of the water the skimmer would skim these off. If the pump is in the skimmer box it would be easier to maintain, plus it could not pump the pond dry if something happens in the pond plumbing. The only thing I have found that might be a con to skimmers is the interference floating plants would cause. This can be resolved though with floating hoops. I have heard that small fish can be caught in them. I don’t know if that is true.
>I have heard that small fish can be caught in them. I don’t know if that is >true.
Yes, it’s true. However for every one fish that goes in and can’t find its way out there are dozens who love to go in and play in the current. They just come & go as they please. I suspect one reason they go in there is that some floating food will inevitably end up there (which is a good thing). ~ Gary Hingham, MA
> I am also interested in the answer to this question.
In my experence a skimmer is a must,moreso if you have trees around a pond. Not to mention pollen, dust,and desbrie that get on the surface of the pond. If you dont have a skimmer this stuff just winds up mixing in the water ,eventually winding up on the botton of the pond. A skimmer not only cuts down on maint. but does wounders for the water retention in you pond.It makes the surface flow better. Your filter should be piped to your skimmer and a intake below the surface,"connected together"so your skimmer and intake work together ajusting the flow between the 2. The lower water coulum and surface both need to be filtered !to have properly filtered pond. I use a "no nitch" skimmer witch consist of leaf basket,to catch leaves bigger disbrie,smaller disbrie goes though to the filter to be filtered out,it has a lip that flotes up and down to ujust to the lowering and riseing of the pond water level . I got mine from aquartart The best investment you can make,I dont now what Id do without one.and ther not that expensive to boot,shop around though. HTH Flounder:)
everyone I know with skimmers has to clean the bottom of their pond anyway. Ingrid >Is a skimmer a necessity or a luxury item? >I’m putting in a 1200 gallon pond with a bottom drain and a sizable filter. >Do I need one? >Thanks >Stephen
List manager- Puregold http://puregold.aquaria.net/ http://drsolo.net Solve the problem, dont waste energy looking for who’s to blame Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the work, endorsements and recommendations I make. And my husband has the bills to prove it!
> Is a skimmer a necessity or a luxury item? > I’m putting in a 1200 gallon pond with a bottom drain and a sizable filter. > Do I need one? > Thanks > Stephen
I am a newby, so take what I say with a grain of salt. :’) I have decided that I really don’t need one because where I am building my pond never has any leaves on the site. This takes in consideration prevailing breezes and corners where leaves could collect. Anybody see any holes in my logic? Steve Lowther
The skimmer is designed to collect leaves and debris that fall into the pond. It also serves as a pre-filter for the pump in order to minimize clogging. The skimmer is buried along side of your pond and continually skims the surface of the water for debris. The water and debris are drawn through the opening of the skimmer by the pump that is housed at the bottom of the skimmer. The removable debris net collects leaves, sticks and any other objects that have fallen onto your pond. Below the debris net is a filter pad that prevents smaller debris, such as dirt and seeds from reaching the pump Our skimmer unit is the lowest maintenance, most user-friendly design on the market today. It is the only skimmer available with an overflow design, a low maintenance horizontal filter pad and an optional accurate pond level fill valve. The bulkhead fitted overflow allows you to set the pond level exactly, while eliminating pond edge erosion. A horizontal filter design does not prevent water from reaching the pump and burning it out. Unlike imitation vertical mats, which require substantially more maintenance, the water level above the filter mat is always true. This design allows a fill valve to only activate when the pond water level is low, preventing the problem of continuously running fill valves. A spring-loaded mechanical weir can easily be removed to allow more water to reach larger pumps, or to allow the pumps to be run during low water conditions. The weir design has proven to be the most effective in spa and swimming pool applications and has proven to hold up to the test without deterioration. The skimmer’s high-density polyethylene construction is firm, but flexes during freeze-thaw cycles or shifting earth. It will never crack, unlike rigid fiberglass designs, which can easily crack over time. The single greatest benefit of the skimmer is how it hides the mechanics of the pond while substantially reducing the pond’s maintenance. Happy Ponding Bullfrog-ed http://www.pondguys.com The Aquascape Design Ecosystem Complete Pro Pond Kits "HELPING TO CHANGE THE WAY THE WORLD BUILDS PONDS. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Is a skimmer a necessity or a luxury item? > I’m putting in a 1200 gallon pond with a bottom drain and a sizable filter. > Do I need one? > Thanks > Stephen
I am looking for plans to make a skimmer using a plastic wastebasket. I don’t want something permanent. Only need it when cotton from cottonwoods start to fall, and early fall for leaves. Thanks — John
Hi John, Do you have Koi? My Koi really enjoy eating the cotton from the cottonwood tree. The leaves are another matter. — Bonnie NJ http://www.users.fast.net/~maebe/index.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am looking for plans to make a skimmer using a plastic wastebasket. I > don’t want something permanent. Only need it when cotton from cottonwoods > start to fall, and early fall for leaves. Thanks > — > John
John, try Greg’s Pond Page for instructions on how to build……. http://soli.inav.net/~bickal/skimmer.htm Pam – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi John, >Do you have Koi? My Koi really enjoy eating the cotton from the cottonwood >tree. The leaves are another matter. >– >Bonnie >NJ >http://www.users.fast.net/~maebe/index.htm > I am looking for plans to make a skimmer using a plastic wastebasket. I > don’t want something permanent. Only need it when cotton from cottonwoods > start to fall, and early fall for leaves. Thanks > — > John
Can you make a home made skimmer?
See the discussion elsewhere in this newsgroup In brief, the answer is yes, they are simple to design, but read the posts on their utility first! Greg — Greg
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Can you make a home made skimmer?
>Can you make a home made skimmer?
I just finished making one out of a trash can, a laundry basket, a pump and a filter pad. In theory it should work great…in action…we’ll see in a few days. I’ll let you know! Minus the pump the whole thing cost less than 10 bucks. ~Tina http://fadedjeans.com/pond Akron, Ohio http://arthritisinsight.com Knowledge is power…support is essential.
Anyone have ideas on how to make an inexpensive skimmer to clean stuff from the top of the pond?
If it is a small pond use a coat hanger with a ladies nylon over it tied to a wood stick. >Anyone have ideas on how to make an inexpensive skimmer to clean stuff from >the top of the pond?
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I use an old badminton racket with nylon hose stretched over it. Extend the handle with a piece of dowel for a longer reach. —- Bill
I just posted a thing on how I made mine! Check the list for something from me with Skimmer in the title. I forget how I headed it. > Anyone have ideas on how to make an inexpensive skimmer to clean stuff from > the top of the pond?
– Kellie Should Prayer Be Allowed In School? <http://www.themestream.com/gspd_browse/browse/view_article.gsp?c_id=1…> ** Final Portrait * A Novel <http://kassarts.bizland.com>
> Anyone have ideas on how to make an inexpensive skimmer to clean stuff from > the top of the pond?
Mine is made of a plastic 15 gallon trash can-this hold the pump-the water is pumped through a pipe that goes out of the side of the can and up to the veggie filter. On top of the trash can is a laundry basket with the holes enlarged. The water flows in thru the basket-the debri stays there and the water goes down thru two filter pads into the pump. Works great! Last week the owner of the largest pond shp around here came out to measure our pond so we can be on the pond tour. He said, "I will put you on the tour, but don’t you dare show anyone this skimmer." He sells the purifalls systems and said no one would pay for that if they saw how well my cheap one worked! ~Tina Akron, Ohio http://arthritisinsight.com Knowledge is power…support is essential.
I would like to add a skimmer to our ponds. The three ponds are tucked under three small trees (2 maples, 1 silver birch). The one maple and birch are growing fast and we have decided to move the red maple to another location. The trees provide nice morning shade for the ponds but no afternoon or evening shade so I get at least 6 hours or more of direct sun. The ponds are surrounded by cedar mulched landscaping consisting of small shrubs and flowers that should not create a problem for the ponds. The ponds are joined by two spillways that I devised screens for to prevent the fish from travelling. The spillways also contain charcoal to prevent problems with DOC. I have a small waterfall in the upper pond; water enters the waterfall through a small filter at the top of the waterfall. I have another larger filter in the small lower pond that does the bulk of my filtering. I have several water plants: submersed, floating, rooted. I am concerned mainly with tree and water plant debris as the yard is well protected on all four sides by privacy fencing and buildings. Would it be possible to design a skimmer that would sit just before the spillways? Does anyone have ideas for a home made skimmer?
<snip> > Would it be possible to design a skimmer that would sit just before > the spillways? Does anyone have ideas for a home made skimmer?
My site has directions for my small homemade skimmer. It sits in the pond, and might be able to be modified to suit your needs. — Cheers, Laura http://www.geocities.com/pinkmousedesign rec.ponds FAQ > > http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/faq.html
If you need a skimmer without changing your liner or filtration, there is one that runs off a separate small pump by spraying the surface into a net bag. It’s made by Beckett and Aqua-Mart carries it. www.aqua-mart.com I’m sure others do too. You might want to go to the Beckett website and see if they have a picture or diagram. ~ jan See my ponds thru the seasons and/or my filter design: http://users.owt.com/jjspond/ ~Keep ‘em Wet!~ Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a To e-mail see website
Hi all, Twice I’ve seen a site mentioned that sells skimmers. I bookmarked it but my bookmark file on ponds is getting huge. Any help would save me
>Hi all, >Twice I’ve seen a site mentioned that sells skimmers. I bookmarked it >but my bookmark file on ponds is getting huge. Any help would save me
Robert, I know Aqua Art has a web site and they sell all sorts of fitler stuff including skimmers. Steve
Im thinking of using a skimmer(driven by a pump) as the driving recirculator in my new pond. It is a 200 gallon preform. Will this work out alright, and does anyone have any good designs? I was planning on placing a submersible pump in a tub that sits just below the surface. A screen would gather the debris in the bucket, and the pump would move the screened water to the out-of-pond bio-filter. Thanks -jugabee
Here’s one that seems easy to make. http://soli.inav.net/~bickal/skimmer.htm And this ready-made skimmer that doesn’t have to be built into the wall has a decent price. http://www.aquaart.com/skimmer.html#intake If you come across any others link me up. I’m still in the learning and collecting info stage. I’m looking for plain and simple and easy to do for a novice ponder. I hope to bypass all the mistakes newbies make with all the knowledge shared in this NG. It’s an endless source of valuable info here!!! Love it!!! })i({ Cindy })i({ If you think the grass is greener on the other side, get fertilizer!!! : ) Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless
Hello, > . . . > And this ready-made skimmer that doesn’t have to be built > into the wall has a decent price. > http://www.aquaart.com/skimmer.html#intake
My watergarden currently has two of the "No Nitch" skimmers. I have been very happy with their operation. Each large pond has a skimmer which draws in the surface water into a Supreme 1800 pump. An OxyMax venturi is on the output side of each pump. These two pumps just pull in the surface water, and blow bubbles near the bottom of the pond. The goldfish LOVE to play in the bubbles. Another group of four Supreme 1800 pumps are used to move the water through the system. The goldfish have waterfalls, fast-moving currents, and bubbles to play in. They spend hours "surfing", "swimming upstream", and swimming through the bubbles. Bonnie Lee Hill Dallas, Texas
Ha.. And miss all the fun.. Not me Dig first. Water will find a way in. Fish and toads soon will follow Before you know it, its time to dig again. Jagath (just yanking some chain My story: Bought house with small puddle. Lots of rotting vegetation and leaves from last fall. Cleaned up a bit, try to foolishly lower the pH. Added a few comets and rosy reds. Water turned green when whether got warmer. Pondered using CSA, but kept removing rotting stuff and kept the waterfall running. Rewarded with clear water, lots of string algae and healthy looking comets. pH is off the scale (>8), but I’m not worrying about it anymore. The puddle is looking awfully small. Fortunately other stuff is preventing me from picking up the shovel. Maybe next year. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > If you come across any others link me up. I’m still in the learning and > collecting info stage. I’m looking for plain and simple and easy to do for a > novice ponder. I hope to bypass all the mistakes newbies make with all the > knowledge shared in this NG. It’s an endless source of valuable info here!!!
Is a skimmer a necessity or a luxury item? I’m putting in a 1200 gallon pond with a bottom drain and a sizable filter. Do I need one? Thanks Stephen
I am also interested in the answer to this question.
Well, how much of a problem to you have with leaves? The skimmer will catch a lot of ‘em before they sink to the bottom. It’s there to catch a lot of the floaty stuff that inevitably lands in your pond, and because it’s in the skimmer and the net can be pulled out, it’s a lot easier to clean than the bottom of your pond! Mine also does double duty as the place where my pump lives. Lee
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Is a skimmer a necessity or a luxury item? > I’m putting in a 1200 gallon pond with a bottom drain and a sizable filter. > Do I need one? > Thanks > Stephen
I have been studying whether to install one on my new pond or not. The pro’s for me were the clear surface on the top of the water and the pump being out of the pond. You always have small particles and leaves floating on the top of the water the skimmer would skim these off. If the pump is in the skimmer box it would be easier to maintain, plus it could not pump the pond dry if something happens in the pond plumbing. The only thing I have found that might be a con to skimmers is the interference floating plants would cause. This can be resolved though with floating hoops. I have heard that small fish can be caught in them. I don’t know if that is true.
>I have heard that small fish can be caught in them. I don’t know if that is >true.
Yes, it’s true. However for every one fish that goes in and can’t find its way out there are dozens who love to go in and play in the current. They just come & go as they please. I suspect one reason they go in there is that some floating food will inevitably end up there (which is a good thing). ~ Gary Hingham, MA
> I am also interested in the answer to this question.
In my experence a skimmer is a must,moreso if you have trees around a pond. Not to mention pollen, dust,and desbrie that get on the surface of the pond. If you dont have a skimmer this stuff just winds up mixing in the water ,eventually winding up on the botton of the pond. A skimmer not only cuts down on maint. but does wounders for the water retention in you pond.It makes the surface flow better. Your filter should be piped to your skimmer and a intake below the surface,"connected together"so your skimmer and intake work together ajusting the flow between the 2. The lower water coulum and surface both need to be filtered !to have properly filtered pond. I use a "no nitch" skimmer witch consist of leaf basket,to catch leaves bigger disbrie,smaller disbrie goes though to the filter to be filtered out,it has a lip that flotes up and down to ujust to the lowering and riseing of the pond water level . I got mine from aquartart The best investment you can make,I dont now what Id do without one.and ther not that expensive to boot,shop around though. HTH Flounder:)
everyone I know with skimmers has to clean the bottom of their pond anyway. Ingrid >Is a skimmer a necessity or a luxury item? >I’m putting in a 1200 gallon pond with a bottom drain and a sizable filter. >Do I need one? >Thanks >Stephen
List manager- Puregold http://puregold.aquaria.net/ http://drsolo.net Solve the problem, dont waste energy looking for who’s to blame Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the work, endorsements and recommendations I make. And my husband has the bills to prove it!
> Is a skimmer a necessity or a luxury item? > I’m putting in a 1200 gallon pond with a bottom drain and a sizable filter. > Do I need one? > Thanks > Stephen
I am a newby, so take what I say with a grain of salt. :’) I have decided that I really don’t need one because where I am building my pond never has any leaves on the site. This takes in consideration prevailing breezes and corners where leaves could collect. Anybody see any holes in my logic? Steve Lowther
The skimmer is designed to collect leaves and debris that fall into the pond. It also serves as a pre-filter for the pump in order to minimize clogging. The skimmer is buried along side of your pond and continually skims the surface of the water for debris. The water and debris are drawn through the opening of the skimmer by the pump that is housed at the bottom of the skimmer. The removable debris net collects leaves, sticks and any other objects that have fallen onto your pond. Below the debris net is a filter pad that prevents smaller debris, such as dirt and seeds from reaching the pump Our skimmer unit is the lowest maintenance, most user-friendly design on the market today. It is the only skimmer available with an overflow design, a low maintenance horizontal filter pad and an optional accurate pond level fill valve. The bulkhead fitted overflow allows you to set the pond level exactly, while eliminating pond edge erosion. A horizontal filter design does not prevent water from reaching the pump and burning it out. Unlike imitation vertical mats, which require substantially more maintenance, the water level above the filter mat is always true. This design allows a fill valve to only activate when the pond water level is low, preventing the problem of continuously running fill valves. A spring-loaded mechanical weir can easily be removed to allow more water to reach larger pumps, or to allow the pumps to be run during low water conditions. The weir design has proven to be the most effective in spa and swimming pool applications and has proven to hold up to the test without deterioration. The skimmer’s high-density polyethylene construction is firm, but flexes during freeze-thaw cycles or shifting earth. It will never crack, unlike rigid fiberglass designs, which can easily crack over time. The single greatest benefit of the skimmer is how it hides the mechanics of the pond while substantially reducing the pond’s maintenance. Happy Ponding Bullfrog-ed http://www.pondguys.com The Aquascape Design Ecosystem Complete Pro Pond Kits "HELPING TO CHANGE THE WAY THE WORLD BUILDS PONDS. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Is a skimmer a necessity or a luxury item? > I’m putting in a 1200 gallon pond with a bottom drain and a sizable filter. > Do I need one? > Thanks > Stephen
I am looking for plans to make a skimmer using a plastic wastebasket. I don’t want something permanent. Only need it when cotton from cottonwoods start to fall, and early fall for leaves. Thanks — John
Hi John, Do you have Koi? My Koi really enjoy eating the cotton from the cottonwood tree. The leaves are another matter. — Bonnie NJ http://www.users.fast.net/~maebe/index.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am looking for plans to make a skimmer using a plastic wastebasket. I > don’t want something permanent. Only need it when cotton from cottonwoods > start to fall, and early fall for leaves. Thanks > — > John
John, try Greg’s Pond Page for instructions on how to build……. http://soli.inav.net/~bickal/skimmer.htm Pam – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi John, >Do you have Koi? My Koi really enjoy eating the cotton from the cottonwood >tree. The leaves are another matter. >– >Bonnie >NJ >http://www.users.fast.net/~maebe/index.htm > I am looking for plans to make a skimmer using a plastic wastebasket. I > don’t want something permanent. Only need it when cotton from cottonwoods > start to fall, and early fall for leaves. Thanks > — > John
Can you make a home made skimmer?
See the discussion elsewhere in this newsgroup In brief, the answer is yes, they are simple to design, but read the posts on their utility first! Greg — Greg
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Can you make a home made skimmer?
>Can you make a home made skimmer?
I just finished making one out of a trash can, a laundry basket, a pump and a filter pad. In theory it should work great…in action…we’ll see in a few days. I’ll let you know! Minus the pump the whole thing cost less than 10 bucks. ~Tina http://fadedjeans.com/pond Akron, Ohio http://arthritisinsight.com Knowledge is power…support is essential.
Anyone have ideas on how to make an inexpensive skimmer to clean stuff from the top of the pond?
If it is a small pond use a coat hanger with a ladies nylon over it tied to a wood stick. >Anyone have ideas on how to make an inexpensive skimmer to clean stuff from >the top of the pond?
Featuring the worlds only Anonymous Usenet Server
I use an old badminton racket with nylon hose stretched over it. Extend the handle with a piece of dowel for a longer reach. —- Bill
I just posted a thing on how I made mine! Check the list for something from me with Skimmer in the title. I forget how I headed it. > Anyone have ideas on how to make an inexpensive skimmer to clean stuff from > the top of the pond?
– Kellie Should Prayer Be Allowed In School? <http://www.themestream.com/gspd_browse/browse/view_article.gsp?c_id=1…> ** Final Portrait * A Novel <http://kassarts.bizland.com>
> Anyone have ideas on how to make an inexpensive skimmer to clean stuff from > the top of the pond?
Mine is made of a plastic 15 gallon trash can-this hold the pump-the water is pumped through a pipe that goes out of the side of the can and up to the veggie filter. On top of the trash can is a laundry basket with the holes enlarged. The water flows in thru the basket-the debri stays there and the water goes down thru two filter pads into the pump. Works great! Last week the owner of the largest pond shp around here came out to measure our pond so we can be on the pond tour. He said, "I will put you on the tour, but don’t you dare show anyone this skimmer." He sells the purifalls systems and said no one would pay for that if they saw how well my cheap one worked! ~Tina Akron, Ohio http://arthritisinsight.com Knowledge is power…support is essential.
I would like to add a skimmer to our ponds. The three ponds are tucked under three small trees (2 maples, 1 silver birch). The one maple and birch are growing fast and we have decided to move the red maple to another location. The trees provide nice morning shade for the ponds but no afternoon or evening shade so I get at least 6 hours or more of direct sun. The ponds are surrounded by cedar mulched landscaping consisting of small shrubs and flowers that should not create a problem for the ponds. The ponds are joined by two spillways that I devised screens for to prevent the fish from travelling. The spillways also contain charcoal to prevent problems with DOC. I have a small waterfall in the upper pond; water enters the waterfall through a small filter at the top of the waterfall. I have another larger filter in the small lower pond that does the bulk of my filtering. I have several water plants: submersed, floating, rooted. I am concerned mainly with tree and water plant debris as the yard is well protected on all four sides by privacy fencing and buildings. Would it be possible to design a skimmer that would sit just before the spillways? Does anyone have ideas for a home made skimmer?
<snip> > Would it be possible to design a skimmer that would sit just before > the spillways? Does anyone have ideas for a home made skimmer?
My site has directions for my small homemade skimmer. It sits in the pond, and might be able to be modified to suit your needs. — Cheers, Laura http://www.geocities.com/pinkmousedesign rec.ponds FAQ > > http://w3.one.net/~rzutt/faq.html
If you need a skimmer without changing your liner or filtration, there is one that runs off a separate small pump by spraying the surface into a net bag. It’s made by Beckett and Aqua-Mart carries it. www.aqua-mart.com I’m sure others do too. You might want to go to the Beckett website and see if they have a picture or diagram. ~ jan See my ponds thru the seasons and/or my filter design: http://users.owt.com/jjspond/ ~Keep ‘em Wet!~ Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a To e-mail see website
Hi all, Twice I’ve seen a site mentioned that sells skimmers. I bookmarked it but my bookmark file on ponds is getting huge. Any help would save me
>Hi all, >Twice I’ve seen a site mentioned that sells skimmers. I bookmarked it >but my bookmark file on ponds is getting huge. Any help would save me
Robert, I know Aqua Art has a web site and they sell all sorts of fitler stuff including skimmers. Steve
Yes, it’s too dangerous, no, you can’t train them (reliably) not to jump up on the railing and no, you’re not being too paranoid. We once lived in a rented 33rd floor apt. with a balcony like yours. We bit the bullet and paid a handyman to screen in the entire balcony, including overhead, with chicken-wire-type screening. It wasn’t gorgeous, but our cat could enjoy the balcony safely and the peace of mind was worth every penny. — One of the most striking differences between a cat and a lie is that a cat has only nine lives. Mark Twain – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi All! > I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a > nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to > get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m > worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is > solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and > accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out > a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more > hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just > sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely > unsupervised.) > Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it > too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being > too paranoid? > Thanks, > Caroline > — > Caroline S.
Hi again, posting from home this time (don’t tell that I usually post from work!). Well, today was just too beautiful to resist, so when I got home, I swept up all the bird seed shells from the balcony (I feed the birds *for the cats*) and then put both boys in their harnesses. Mithu wasn’t ready to go out yet, but Pippin marched himself right over to the screen door and waited for it to open (he usually fights me on the harness issue). Once out there, all he wanted to do was roll around on the concrete. I left the door open so Mithu could come out when he was ready, which he did after a few minutes (I grabbed his leash when he came out). Of course each cat went in opposite directions. I discovered that the balcony is just a few inches wider than my arm span + two leashes + two cats. Both cats rolled around as much as they could, then got it together and started sniffing every dust molecule side by side. That when on for about 15 minutes. Pippin stood up to peek over the edge (I think the brick part is closer to 2 feet than 3) a few times, but no one tried to jump up. They also followed a bug for a few seconds. Then, when they were ready, they wandered back in. A very pleasant afternoon! I guess I will keep them on the leashes, and maybe tie them to my ankle or something if I need my hands free. Thanks for your collective advice! Caroline S. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi All! > I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a > nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to > get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m > worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is > solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and > accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out > a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more > hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just > sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely > unsupervised.) > Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it > too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being > too paranoid? > Thanks, > Caroline > — > Caroline S.
Before you buy.
Hi All! I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely unsupervised.) Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being too paranoid? Thanks, Caroline — Caroline S.
In my experience you can never be paraniod enough! When I lived in ottawa we lived on the 22nd floor of an apartment building. I was the same as you and wanted my cats to be able to go on the balcony so… my honey built a screen out of wood and chicken wire and put it on the balcony. It covered the entire enclosure and was great for keeping the cats in and the pigeons out… if you need directions on how to build one email me privately and I will get him to write it out for you! Best of luck… tammy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi All! > I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a > nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to > get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m > worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is > solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and > accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out > a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more > hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just > sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely > unsupervised.) > Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it > too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being > too paranoid? > Thanks, > Caroline > — > Caroline S.
|Hi All! | |I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a |nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to |get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m |worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is |solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and |accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out |a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more |hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just |sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely |unsupervised.) | |Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it |too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being |too paranoid? | |Thanks, |Caroline I don’t think you’re being paranoid, I would not let my cats loose on a balcony without "cat proofing" it first with some kind of net. — lewe >’o'< lewe at homemail dot com >’o'<
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > |Hi All! > | > |I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a > |nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to > |get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m > |worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is > |solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and > |accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out > |a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more > |hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just > |sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely > |unsupervised.) > | > |Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it > |too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being > |too paranoid? > | > |Thanks, > |Caroline > I don’t think you’re being paranoid, I would not let my cats loose on a > balcony without "cat proofing" it first with some kind of net. > — lewe
Neither would I. Cathy
I wouldn’t take the chance. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi All! > I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a > nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to > get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m > worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is > solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and > accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out > a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more > hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just > sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely > unsupervised.) > Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it > too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being > too paranoid? > Thanks, > Caroline > — > Caroline S.
Yes, it’s too dangerous, no, you can’t train them (reliably) not to jump up on the railing and no, you’re not being too paranoid. We once lived in a rented 33rd floor apt. with a balcony like yours. We bit the bullet and paid a handyman to screen in the entire balcony, including overhead, with chicken-wire-type screening. It wasn’t gorgeous, but our cat could enjoy the balcony safely and the peace of mind was worth every penny. — One of the most striking differences between a cat and a lie is that a cat has only nine lives. Mark Twain – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi All! > I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a > nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to > get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m > worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is > solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and > accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out > a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more > hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just > sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely > unsupervised.) > Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it > too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being > too paranoid? > Thanks, > Caroline > — > Caroline S.
Hi again, posting from home this time (don’t tell that I usually post from work!). Well, today was just too beautiful to resist, so when I got home, I swept up all the bird seed shells from the balcony (I feed the birds *for the cats*) and then put both boys in their harnesses. Mithu wasn’t ready to go out yet, but Pippin marched himself right over to the screen door and waited for it to open (he usually fights me on the harness issue). Once out there, all he wanted to do was roll around on the concrete. I left the door open so Mithu could come out when he was ready, which he did after a few minutes (I grabbed his leash when he came out). Of course each cat went in opposite directions. I discovered that the balcony is just a few inches wider than my arm span + two leashes + two cats. Both cats rolled around as much as they could, then got it together and started sniffing every dust molecule side by side. That when on for about 15 minutes. Pippin stood up to peek over the edge (I think the brick part is closer to 2 feet than 3) a few times, but no one tried to jump up. They also followed a bug for a few seconds. Then, when they were ready, they wandered back in. A very pleasant afternoon! I guess I will keep them on the leashes, and maybe tie them to my ankle or something if I need my hands free. Thanks for your collective advice! Caroline S. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi All! > I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a > nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to > get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m > worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is > solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and > accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out > a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more > hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just > sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely > unsupervised.) > Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it > too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being > too paranoid? > Thanks, > Caroline > — > Caroline S.
Before you buy.
Hi All! I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely unsupervised.) Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being too paranoid? Thanks, Caroline — Caroline S.
In my experience you can never be paraniod enough! When I lived in ottawa we lived on the 22nd floor of an apartment building. I was the same as you and wanted my cats to be able to go on the balcony so… my honey built a screen out of wood and chicken wire and put it on the balcony. It covered the entire enclosure and was great for keeping the cats in and the pigeons out… if you need directions on how to build one email me privately and I will get him to write it out for you! Best of luck… tammy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi All! > I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a > nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to > get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m > worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is > solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and > accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out > a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more > hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just > sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely > unsupervised.) > Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it > too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being > too paranoid? > Thanks, > Caroline > — > Caroline S.
|Hi All! | |I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a |nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to |get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m |worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is |solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and |accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out |a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more |hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just |sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely |unsupervised.) | |Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it |too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being |too paranoid? | |Thanks, |Caroline I don’t think you’re being paranoid, I would not let my cats loose on a balcony without "cat proofing" it first with some kind of net. — lewe >’o'< lewe at homemail dot com >’o'<
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > |Hi All! > | > |I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a > |nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to > |get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m > |worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is > |solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and > |accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out > |a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more > |hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just > |sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely > |unsupervised.) > | > |Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it > |too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being > |too paranoid? > | > |Thanks, > |Caroline > I don’t think you’re being paranoid, I would not let my cats loose on a > balcony without "cat proofing" it first with some kind of net. > — lewe
Neither would I. Cathy
I wouldn’t take the chance. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi All! > I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a > nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to > get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m > worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is > solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and > accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out > a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more > hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just > sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely > unsupervised.) > Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it > too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being > too paranoid? > Thanks, > Caroline > — > Caroline S.
Yes, it’s too dangerous, no, you can’t train them (reliably) not to jump up on the railing and no, you’re not being too paranoid. We once lived in a rented 33rd floor apt. with a balcony like yours. We bit the bullet and paid a handyman to screen in the entire balcony, including overhead, with chicken-wire-type screening. It wasn’t gorgeous, but our cat could enjoy the balcony safely and the peace of mind was worth every penny. — One of the most striking differences between a cat and a lie is that a cat has only nine lives. Mark Twain – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi All! > I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a > nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to > get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m > worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is > solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and > accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out > a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more > hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just > sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely > unsupervised.) > Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it > too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being > too paranoid? > Thanks, > Caroline > — > Caroline S.
Hi again, posting from home this time (don’t tell that I usually post from work!). Well, today was just too beautiful to resist, so when I got home, I swept up all the bird seed shells from the balcony (I feed the birds *for the cats*) and then put both boys in their harnesses. Mithu wasn’t ready to go out yet, but Pippin marched himself right over to the screen door and waited for it to open (he usually fights me on the harness issue). Once out there, all he wanted to do was roll around on the concrete. I left the door open so Mithu could come out when he was ready, which he did after a few minutes (I grabbed his leash when he came out). Of course each cat went in opposite directions. I discovered that the balcony is just a few inches wider than my arm span + two leashes + two cats. Both cats rolled around as much as they could, then got it together and started sniffing every dust molecule side by side. That when on for about 15 minutes. Pippin stood up to peek over the edge (I think the brick part is closer to 2 feet than 3) a few times, but no one tried to jump up. They also followed a bug for a few seconds. Then, when they were ready, they wandered back in. A very pleasant afternoon! I guess I will keep them on the leashes, and maybe tie them to my ankle or something if I need my hands free. Thanks for your collective advice! Caroline S. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi All! > I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a > nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to > get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m > worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is > solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and > accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out > a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more > hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just > sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely > unsupervised.) > Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it > too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being > too paranoid? > Thanks, > Caroline > — > Caroline S.
Before you buy.
Hi All! I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely unsupervised.) Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being too paranoid? Thanks, Caroline — Caroline S.
In my experience you can never be paraniod enough! When I lived in ottawa we lived on the 22nd floor of an apartment building. I was the same as you and wanted my cats to be able to go on the balcony so… my honey built a screen out of wood and chicken wire and put it on the balcony. It covered the entire enclosure and was great for keeping the cats in and the pigeons out… if you need directions on how to build one email me privately and I will get him to write it out for you! Best of luck… tammy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi All! > I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a > nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to > get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m > worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is > solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and > accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out > a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more > hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just > sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely > unsupervised.) > Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it > too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being > too paranoid? > Thanks, > Caroline > — > Caroline S.
|Hi All! | |I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a |nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to |get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m |worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is |solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and |accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out |a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more |hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just |sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely |unsupervised.) | |Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it |too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being |too paranoid? | |Thanks, |Caroline I don’t think you’re being paranoid, I would not let my cats loose on a balcony without "cat proofing" it first with some kind of net. — lewe >’o'< lewe at homemail dot com >’o'<
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > |Hi All! > | > |I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a > |nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to > |get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m > |worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is > |solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and > |accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out > |a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more > |hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just > |sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely > |unsupervised.) > | > |Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it > |too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being > |too paranoid? > | > |Thanks, > |Caroline > I don’t think you’re being paranoid, I would not let my cats loose on a > balcony without "cat proofing" it first with some kind of net. > — lewe
Neither would I. Cathy
I wouldn’t take the chance. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi All! > I am currently living on the 14th floor of my apartment bldg and have a > nice little balcony. I would to let my two cats out onto the balcony to > get some sunshine and fresh air now that it’s warming up, but I’m > worried about them jumping up onto the balcony wall (the bottom part is > solid brick about 3 feet tall with two railings above that) and > accidentally falling off onto the driveway below. I have taken them out > a few times on a harness and leash, but would like to let them be more > hands free while I am out there puttering with my plants or just > sitting. (I have no intention of letting them out there completely > unsupervised.) > Do any of you have experience with your cats being up so high? Is it > too dangerous? Can I train them not to jump up on the wall? Am I being > too paranoid? > Thanks, > Caroline > — > Caroline S.
Does anyone know how to build a small (I was thinking about 3′ x 3′ max) bin for keeping nightcrawlers? I can dig it into the ground, or put it in the basement, whatever it needs. Also, how long do nightcrawlers live?
The best nightcrawler bin requires recycling an old frig. Looks like you need an apartment size one. Head out to the local dump, pick the size you need, remove the door and leave it at the dump, put it up on a couple of saw horses, fill with good soil, cover with a piece of plywood. Keep it in a cool, dark area and feed them some leafy chopped greens. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does anyone know how to build a small (I was thinking about 3′ x 3′ > max) bin for keeping nightcrawlers? I can dig it into the ground, or > put it in the basement, whatever it needs. > Also, how long do nightcrawlers live?
Do not forget coffee grounds. My Dad taught me that 30+ years ago and it still makes for sassy crawlers today.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->The best nightcrawler bin requires recycling an old frig. Looks like you >need an apartment size one. Head out to the local dump, pick the size you >need, remove the door and leave it at the dump, put it up on a couple of >saw horses, fill with good soil, cover with a piece of plywood. Keep it in >a cool, dark area and feed them some leafy chopped greens.
How could I not remember that, must have had a major memory lapse. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Do not forget coffee grounds. My Dad taught me that 30+ years ago and it > still makes for sassy crawlers today. Keep it in >a cool, dark area and feed them some leafy chopped greens.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > How could I not remember that, must have had a major memory lapse. > Do not forget coffee grounds. My Dad taught me that 30+ years ago and it > still makes for sassy crawlers today. > Keep it in > >a cool, dark area and feed them some leafy chopped greens.
Yea, keep it cool.Take the refrigerator, it must be in working order Lay it on it’s back Put legs at the four corners so air gets to the coils Turn the compressor upright ( it won’t work, otherwise) And plug it in. Bingo, worm cooler. fish ON! Roger
> Hi! I was wondering if someone might be able to tell me if >it’s possible to build an indoor cage for my 2 red-factor canaries. >They are presently housed in a cage that measures 1.5 Ft high and >about 1 square foot inside. This gives them little room to hop around >and much less to fly! I am new to birding so I didn’t know that this >would be an inadequate size when I bought them. > So with this in mind I was hoping that someone might be able >to give me an idea as to how I can build them a cage – if this is at >all possible.
You can buy some wire and built it yourself. Another option is to purchased a knocked down "kit" from a wire cage supplier. Here are a few that I am aware of: Swellands – http://keyinfo.com/cat/cage&sup/swelland/default.html California Cageworks – http://www.lainet.com/hotspot/cagehome.htm a list of others: http://www.birdsrus.com/birds/products.htm current home: http://www.qcontinuum.com/~jhigbee/ alternate: http://www.nyx.net/~jhigbee
Hi- I edit the Breeders’ Bulletin (official journal of the Exotic Bird Breeders’ Association of America – EBBAA) and in each issue of the magazine, we have a page called the "Featured Creature," in which we highlight the personality and distinctive points of a species. The information is derived from returned survey forms, so that the info is solid and useable. The upcoming issue is highlighting the Double-Yellow Head Amazon. If any of you has at least a year’s experience with the DYH, or know someone who does, I would very much appreciate your (or their) completing and directly E-mailing me the answers to the following survey. If you will also provide your snailing address, we will happily send you a copy of the issue it comes out in. If you’d like to respond on another species with which you consider yourself very familiar, please do so. Already featured (so not needed) – Goffins & Umbrella Cockatoos, Blue-Front Amazon, CAG, Lovebird, Blue-Headed Pionus, Senegal, Hahn’s & Blue & Gold Macaws & Cockatiel (again, our thanks to those who participated in THOSE surveys). In case you are giving this to someone not on-line to participate, our snailing address is: EBBAA, FEATURED CREATURE DEPARTMENT, PO BOX 3184 SONORA, CA 95370-3184 FEATURED CREATURE SURVEY BIRD TYPE (Species): Double-Yellow Head Amazon (or other species) NAME: ADDRESS (IF YOU WOULD LIKE COPY OF MAGAZINE SHOWING SURVEY RESULTS): CITY & STATE: IF EBBAA MEMBER, TYPE #: YEARS YOU’VE OWNED THIS TYPE BIRD AS PET? YEARS AS NON-PRODUCTIVE BREEDER? YEARS AS PRODUCTIVE BREEDER? NUMBER OF BREEDER PAIRS? NUMBER OF THIS SPECIES KEPT AS PETS? YOUR TOTAL NUMBER YEARS AS A "BIRD OWNER?" AS A PET DESCRIBE TALKING / MIMIC ABILITY SPECIAL TALENTS / ABILITIES? DESCRIBE. ARE THEY SHY OR FRIENDLY? PLEASE EXPLAIN. ARE THEY AGGRESSIVE? IF YES, GIVE EXAMPLE. DOES TEMPERAMENT CHANGE WITH MATURITY? "DESTRUCTIVE?" TO WHAT EXTENT? PREFER BATHS OR MISTING? GET ALONG WITH OTHER SPECIES? WHICH ONES? ARE THEY NOISY? IF YES, WHEN AT WORST? FAVORITE TREATS? TIPS FOR OTHER (POTENTIAL) OWNERS ADDITIONAL REMARKS AS A BREEDER DID YOU PAIR YOUR BREEDERS? IF YES, WERE YOU SUCCESSFUL? FIRST TRY? AT WHAT AGES WERE YOUR BREEDERS PAIRED? AGE OF SEXUAL MATURITY? ARE THEY PROLIFIC BREEDERS? USUAL BREEDING SEASON? ARE NESTBOXES HUNG YEAR ROUND? If no, when? DO PREVIOUS PETS MAKE GOOD BREEDERS? NUMBER OF EGGS / CLUTCHES PER YEAR? DO YOU PULL EGGS OR BABIES (WHAT AGE)? DO THEY MAKE GOOD PARENTS? ARE THEY NOISY? IF YES, WHEN AT WORST? DO THEY REQUIRE PRIVACY FROM OTHER BIRDS WHEN BREEDING? EXPLAIN. TIPS FOR OTHER BREEDERS? ADDITIONAL REMARKS? Thank you for your assistance. Lynn W. Reed
>Newsgroups: rec.pets.birds > Hi! I was wondering if someone might be able to tell me > if > it’s possible to build an indoor cage for my 2 red-factor > canaries.
ling lists Hello, be aware wood can not be disinfected. I would not suggest wood. I would call a breeder or two from your local bird club and ask to buy some wire that is GAW. BEFORE you bring into your home,disinfect it with a good solution of bleach water and then wipe it down with vineger water. If you want it three feet cut six feet and fold it in half. Make two above now you have two pieces of folded six feet, put it together as a puzzle piece. YOu now have a BOX or a cage in the rudiment At you local hardware you can get either fancie closet poles or almuninm poles and while you at it get some *muffler clams, small ones* get four of them. Take your poles and place at each cornor of the BOX and muffler clamp them. Now you can put your creative brain to work with your large flight you have made for your birds. You can make this six feet if you have the room, but now you have made a 3×3x3 feet, a good start. Get some J clamps, wire cutters and the tool to clamp the Jclamps together. Cut out your door, two feeding doors. Make your door at least as large as 12" x12" so you can have easy asses to your birds If you want to make a bottom for the poop, I woud suggest adding under the cage, shelveing clamps and put polyglass tray, you can have one made. I just put paper then it willnot be left long and very away from the birds smell. Your birds will be able to see in all directions and you can watch in every way them enjoy this large cage for them. My hope is you’ll make one the size of at least six feet with this kind of instructionsf or yourself. It will take a little home work however, I did it , I do it! so…I know you can. Have fun and be creative you can vary anything around to suit your own needs and the birds. REmember though, you will have to havesomething that can be cleaned easily for your birds and yourself. Cherane "Quality is never an accident; it is always the result of high intention, sincere effort, intelligent direction and skillful execution; it represents the wise choice of many alternatives."
Hi! I was wondering if someone might be able to tell me if it’s possible to build an indoor cage for my 2 red-factor canaries. They are presently housed in a cage that measures 1.5 Ft high and about 1 square foot inside. This gives them little room to hop around and much less to fly! I am new to birding so I didn’t know that this would be an inadequate size when I bought them. So with this in mind I was hoping that someone might be able to give me an idea as to how I can build them a cage – if this is at all possible. Thanks, Eric
> Hi! I was wondering if someone might be able to tell me if > it’s possible to build an indoor cage for my 2 red-factor canaries. > They are presently housed in a cage that measures 1.5 Ft high and > about 1 square foot inside. This gives them little room to hop around > and much less to fly! I am new to birding so I didn’t know that this > would be an inadequate size when I bought them. > So with this in mind I was hoping that someone might be able > to give me an idea as to how I can build them a cage – if this is at > all possible. > Thanks, > Eric
The best way I have found to build a cage is to buy an appropriate ‘wooden box’ (we bought a china cabinet with mirrors on the back). Make sure it has no varnish or other paint harmful to birds. Remove the front of the box (the left and right door for our china cabinet, leaving the center). Replace the front with one or more metal bar shelves (the type you get for the custom closet arrangements). Add additional bar shelves to the back and sides for additional climbing space. We trimmed our shelves because they were too long and made them into perches. Drill holes in the box for additional poles or other sticks. NOTE: make sure the shelves are not the type which can chip and cause our damage to your birds. Our birds (2 tiels, 5 love birds) love the open front of the cage because they can see everything. — Glenn Host – Bills Fan in Redsuck Territory Address modified to take my name off automatic mailing lists
Unless, you have a good recharge rate with cool fresh water and good amounts of cover (rocks, wood), make it deep >5 ft. this allows for thermal stratification and cover from birds and stressors of human spectation. Keep the stocking density low if you can’t provide an input of a couple gallons/min of fresh water– ideally more!. Don’t try trout in a shallow or stagnant pond (pool). Quantities of 20mil PVC liner can be purchased for around $0.20/ sq. ft., if needed (get at an irrigation supply shop). After you dig the hole, place the liner (again, if needed) in the pit with plenty of slack leaving 30" or more of excess material around the edge. Bury this flap in a narrow, deep trench to secure the liner in place. Try to cover the bottom of the freshly lined pond with at least 3" of clean sand (e.g. concrete sand). The best maintenance is to keep the pond full year-around and to practice nutrient removal through periodic vegetation removal. Gather local water plants from healthy waters to seed it and eventually they will replace the filamentous "Elephant Snot" that quick forms in an unseasoned or unhealthy body of water. Fish from hatcheries are less desireable than those from more natural environs due to possible disease importation. However, the potential illegalities of wild fish transportation are at your discretion. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> could anyone please supply me with info on how to build and maintain a > trout pool from scratch
could anyone please supply me with info on how to build and maintain a trout pool from scratch
The first URL is my own private rainbow trout pond.(frames) The next four are oriented to larger size needs. I have more URLs if you want them. http://home.istar.ca/~ogrady/ large pond tips http://www.sonic.net/~bigsnest/Pond/ http://www.radware.net/users/pingle/large.htm http://www.execpc.com/~aqsys/index.html http://www.mindspring.com/~mbarnett/fishlink.htm MPOG — http://home.istar.ca/~ogrady/ Your name or business on the web? http://www.incite.ca
Unless, you have a good recharge rate with cool fresh water and good amounts of cover (rocks, wood), make it deep >5 ft. this allows for thermal stratification and cover from birds and stressors of human spectation. Keep the stocking density low if you can’t provide an input of a couple gallons/min of fresh water– ideally more!. Don’t try trout in a shallow or stagnant pond (pool). Quantities of 20mil PVC liner can be purchased for around $0.20/ sq. ft., if needed (get at an irrigation supply shop). After you dig the hole, place the liner (again, if needed) in the pit with plenty of slack leaving 30" or more of excess material around the edge. Bury this flap in a narrow, deep trench to secure the liner in place. Try to cover the bottom of the freshly lined pond with at least 3" of clean sand (e.g. concrete sand). The best maintenance is to keep the pond full year-around and to practice nutrient removal through periodic vegetation removal. Gather local water plants from healthy waters to seed it and eventually they will replace the filamentous "Elephant Snot" that quick forms in an unseasoned or unhealthy body of water. Fish from hatcheries are less desireable than those from more natural environs due to possible disease importation. However, the potential illegalities of wild fish transportation are at your discretion. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> could anyone please supply me with info on how to build and maintain a > trout pool from scratch
could anyone please supply me with info on how to build and maintain a trout pool from scratch
The first URL is my own private rainbow trout pond.(frames) The next four are oriented to larger size needs. I have more URLs if you want them. http://home.istar.ca/~ogrady/ large pond tips http://www.sonic.net/~bigsnest/Pond/ http://www.radware.net/users/pingle/large.htm http://www.execpc.com/~aqsys/index.html http://www.mindspring.com/~mbarnett/fishlink.htm MPOG — http://home.istar.ca/~ogrady/ Your name or business on the web? http://www.incite.ca