"Never has so much military and economic and diplomatic power been used so ineffectively, and if after all of this time, and all of this sacrifice, and all of this support, there is still no end in sight, then I say the time has come for the American people to turn to new leadership not tied to the mistakes and policies of the past." Richard Nixon, 1968
> "Never has so much military and economic and diplomatic power been used > so ineffectively, and if after all of this time, and all of this > sacrifice, and all of this support, there is still no end in sight, > then I say the time has come for the American people to turn to new > leadership not tied to the mistakes and policies of the past." Richard > Nixon, 1968
Hmmm, History repeats!
> "Never has so much military and economic and diplomatic power been used > so ineffectively, and if after all of this time, and all of this > sacrifice, and all of this support, there is still no end in sight, > then I say the time has come for the American people to turn to new > leadership not tied to the mistakes and policies of the past." Richard > Nixon, 1968
I went to the Nixon museum north of Santa Clare last time I was there on business. It is in the middle of a modern neighborhood on a small piece of land that use to be his parent’s farm. It was a Friday afternoon and the place was empty .. Kind of indicates how Nixon ended his career .. all alone. There are two lone grave sites out back where is is buried along with his wife.
>"Never has so much military and economic and diplomatic power been used >so ineffectively, and if after all of this time, and all of this >sacrifice, and all of this support, there is still no end in sight, >then I say the time has come for the American people to turn to new >leadership not tied to the mistakes and policies of the past." Richard >Nixon, 1968
The old paranoid was right on at the time — but in Iraq, I’ve yet to see "all of this support" for the troops, who are *still* badly underequipped and undersupplied, not to mention being stuck in the middle of a civil war without having any idea of who the good guys are or, for that matter, even the slightest chance of improving the situation. The sad thing is, as bad as Vietnam was, success is even less likely in Iraq. Meanwhile, Hezbollah and Hamas plague the Israelis and all Uncle Sam can do is keep supplying bombs — because the American military, bogged down and largely demoralized by/in Iraq, can no longer pose a credible threat on the ground. Great job, Mr. President!
I am thinking – "what IS success?" How is that defined and by whom. http://www.pbs.org/hanoi/ You win wars through cultrual changes, not bombs Vietnam’s youth today – Members of Vietnam’s "New Generation" can be described by one word: driven. They sport the latest fashions, cruise the streets (QuickTime 1.33Mb) on motorbikes and chat on mobile phones. And, for better or worse, "MTV" now has faithful viewers in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. But this "New Generation" is faced with many dilemmas along the way. How do its members balance family traditions and duties with the pursuit of their own dreams and goals? Pham Ba Hung, a 24 year-old photographer and one of the "New Generation," grew up in the 1980’s when scarce food supplies were rationed. Now, foreign investment and relaxed governmental control have brought new opportunities. Hung’s views are indicative of those held by many his age. On the exciting changes: "(In the 80’s) people just talked about how to get enough food to eat and clothes to wear. But now people are talking about how to do business, how to build a nice house and things like that. Everything changed very fast." Goods weren’t the only thing to pour into Vietnam. Modern western culture was devoured right along with the bread, meat and milk that were suddenly so available. "Nguoi Dep" (meaning "Beautiful Person") is one of Vietnam’s many fashion magazines that young women study like a textbook. And rock ‘n roll has staked its claim on yet another population, as young men in karaoke bars sing along with anyone from John Lennon to Puff Daddy. On music: "We like rock, pop, even jazz and blues. After ‘86, the ‘modern’ western music came and everything changed. I love the Beatles. That’s the best band ever! And the music of Vietnam has also changed. In the past few years Vietnamese singers have become very good. Now people talk about a musical industry in Vietnam." Young people also enjoy more free time than their parents did. Cafes aren’t just a hangout, they’re a way of life. There are even a few discos in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City that attract the more daring crowd. On going out: "Almost every night we’ll call each other on our mobile phones and arrange to meet at a cafe or karaoke bar for a drink. I like to go to discos but not everyone feels comfortable with them or can afford them as they’re quite expensive. In the South they already know about the nightclub culture. In Hanoi it’s still fairly new and people are just starting to go to discos." The Generation Gap Unlike their parents who fear change, the youth demand it. They’re savvy and aggressive, handing out business cards like flyers. It’s a huge change from the past, when being an entrepreneur was frowned upon by the government. With 80% of the population under 40, it’s clear that "change" is not a question of if, but when. On the Generation Gap: "Power is slowly changing hands because my generation understands things that my parents’ generation didn’t have the chance to. Before, there was no choice for information and no one had a chance to be different or change. Now we have magazines, television and the Internet and we can choose what information we want. We’re allowed to be different from each other and we’re more open."
> Hmmm, > History repeats!
Not exactly Tony, America has traditionally gone to war with a Democrat in the White House, so while Nixon took the U.S. out of Vietnam, no Democrat with a hope in hell of winning the next Presidential election has said he/she would withdraw from Iraq. Sorry about that, but once again your one-sentence observations seem to have little to do with reality.
Sorry about that, but once again yourone-sentence observations seem to have little to do with reality. Lincoln presided over the _last_ civil war. Given the continuing bifurcation of socioeconomic classes, all it’ll take is another stolen election.
> America has traditionally gone to war with a Democrat in > the White House
Due to the fact that preceding Republican administrations fuck things up so badly.
>> America has traditionally gone to war with a Democrat in >> the White House > Oh, yeah right. Except for the Civil War, Gulf War I, Panama, Grenada, > and > the present Iraqi FUBAR. And they would like to fight Iran too.
How predictable that the leftist list leaves out WWI, WWII, Korea, oh, and what’s that other one, oh ya, Vietnam. So on the scale of Fubars, how does Panama or Grenada rate against Vietnam?
did courageously avow: >>> America has traditionally gone to war with a Democrat in >>> the White House > Oh, yeah right. Except for the Civil War, Gulf War I, Panama, Grenada, > and > the present Iraqi FUBAR. And they would like to fight Iran too. >How predictable that the leftist list leaves out WWI, WWII, Korea, oh, and >what’s that other one, oh ya, Vietnam. So on the scale of Fubars, how does >Panama or Grenada rate against Vietnam?
Panama and Grenada aren’t significant enough to be considered more than exercises. Not war by any conventional understanding of the term. — Ken Wilson
>>> America has traditionally gone to war with a Democrat in >> the White House > Oh, yeah right. Except for the Civil War, Gulf War I, Panama, Grenada, and > the present Iraqi FUBAR. And they would like to fight Iran too.
Shhhh- These guys might have to learn about Wounded Knee, The 1935 Rape of Nanking, the complete falsification that was the Gulf of Tonkin Act and what happened to the USS LIBERTY 1967. Truthful, factual, actual, honest, real history is not what you might call -their "strong suite". Later, they get busy slapping up posts about songs, after years of having adhered to the neocon line. 1946 Nazis? WHAT Nazis? Where? 2008 Neocons? " " " THe history of Man.
>>>> America has traditionally gone to war with a Democrat in >>> the White House > Oh, yeah right. Except for the Civil War, Gulf War I, Panama, Grenada, > and > the present Iraqi FUBAR. And they would like to fight Iran too. > How predictable that the leftist list leaves out WWI, WWII, Korea, oh, and > what’s that other one, oh ya, Vietnam. So on the scale of Fubars, how does > Panama or Grenada rate against Vietnam?
My God, the poor bastard has absolutely NO perspective on the cold war, the entire domino theory bit, Ho Chi Minh’s IGNORED letters to Eisenhower pleading that weigh in on calling off the French dogs, etc. Dead Gas, alone in a cell for 60 days with _A_People’s_History_of_the_ United_States_ and _The_Rich_and_the_Super_Rich_. Better make that 180 days…
> My God, the poor bastard has absolutely NO perspective on the cold war, > the entire domino theory bit, Ho Chi Minh’s IGNORED letters to Eisenhower > pleading that weigh in on calling off the French dogs, etc.
Bullcrap Marc, boots on the ground were under Kennedy and LBJ, you can’t dance around that no matter how fancy a pirate costume you’re wearing.
> Later, they get busy slapping up posts about songs, after years of > having adhered to the neocon line.
Mulespeak to English translation: They ignore me, they post links to music instead of reading my rants! You’ve had too much attention lately pirate-boy, you’re getting all agitated again, better lock you in the basement for awhile in case company comes over, ta ta.
>> My God, the poor bastard has absolutely NO perspective on the cold war, > the entire domino theory bit, Ho Chi Minh’s IGNORED letters to Eisenhower > pleading that weigh in on calling off the French dogs, etc. > Bullcrap Marc, boots on the ground were under Kennedy and LBJ, you can’t > dance around that no matter how fancy a pirate costume you’re wearing.
Have you a fetish re; Arghhh factor? What are you referring to?! Tell us what you know about Ho Chi Minh’s plea to Eisenhower to disconnect the French. Tell us how the Vietnamese fared against the Japanese there in "French Indo-China". You are uneducated, ignorant and a liar with regard to ever having been in the U.S. or any other military branch of service. Now tell us about your pirate fetish -go ahead, straighten yer hook for all to see! 
>> Later, they get busy slapping up posts about songs, after years of > having adhered to the neocon line. > Mulespeak to English translation: They ignore me, they post links to music > instead of reading my rants! > You’ve had too much attention lately pirate-boy, you’re getting all agitated > again, better lock you in the basement for awhile in case company comes > over, ta ta.
"ta ta?"…more pirate references?! "Too much attention?" Go on, no seriously- enlighten us 
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hippy girls do taste better after smoking a joint!
avow: >Hippy girls do taste better after smoking a joint!
Who smokes the joint, them, you or both? — Ken Wilson
>> Later, they get busy slapping up posts about songs, after years of > having adhered to the neocon line. > Mulespeak to English translation: They ignore me, they post links to music instead of reading my rants! > You’ve had too much attention lately pirate-boy, you’re getting all agitated again, better lock you in the basement for awhile in > case company comes over, ta ta.
Muleass is yerCervix! Must mean he’s your bitch. Must mean he’s a.g.a. bitch. What a sorry slut!
OK, I Googleed thet thar USS Liberty. Wut?
>I don’t understand. You have a garage but no house? > I have been kicked out of the house. However, the garage is available > for living. I’m trying to not let the other side have the last laugh > by making my garage into my palace.
This situation is just screaming for a web cam! Can ya accommodate us gweedo?
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >I don’t understand. You have a garage but no house? > I have been kicked out of the house. However, the garage is available > for living. I’m trying to not let the other side have the last laugh > by making my garage into my palace. > This situation is just screaming for a web cam! > Can ya accommodate us gweedo?
Why is it always assumed by everyone that the woman gets the house? (especially by the woman?) Whoever paid for the damn place should get it. If you pay or paid the mortgage, kick her ass out, and move back into your house. Tell her to buy an RV or something, and SHE can live in the damn garage. Grow a set, man, life is too short for cutting your nose off to spite your face. aem sends….
LOL. Troll… but a good one. Reminds me of that scene in "Life as a House" where the bldg inspector comes by, tells him the toilet has to be in a separtate room. So he tips over an old armoire, cuts out the back with a chainsaw, then sets this around the toilet. Voila. Separate room! I think he also cut a "window" in the garage with the chainsaw.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Oh, some more Questions: > Is it easy to install a tub, shower, toilet and sink in the garage? > Would I have to dig up the concrete garage floor or could I get access > to the water pipes and drains by digging up dirt right outside the > garage? > Are jackhammers rentable? expensive?
> Please offer some real advice, especially on creation of a cheap > insulated ceiling and where to get cheap/free wood/aluminum planks. > Thanks.
Check around for free pallets. Around these parts you can pick them up at glass shops and lumber companies just to name a couple. The planks aren’t very long but they are certainly within the budget. In fact you might even want to leave some of them assembled to allow some insulating space beneath your floor surface.
> Please offer some real advice, especially on creation of a cheap > insulated ceiling and where to get cheap/free wood/aluminum planks. > Thanks.
For a cheap insulated ceiling, how about a layer of visquene/layer of wadded newspaper or used popcorn packing/another layer of visquene or cardboard?
yeah, you want rec.ill-advised-stuff-i-insist-on-doing-anyway – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ruminated: >> Oh, some more Questions: >> Is it easy to install a tub, shower, toilet and sink in the garage? >> Would I have to dig up the concrete garage floor or could I get access >> to the water pipes and drains by digging up dirt right outside the >> garage? >> Are jackhammers rentable? expensive? > I don’t understand. You have a garage but no house? > Naw, he has a bridge. Which he popped out from under in order to > troll us. > — > Eric Lee Green GnuPG public key at
http://badtux.org/eric/eric.gpg
yeah, you want "rec.ill-advised-stuff-i-insist-on-doing-anyway" They’ll have your answers to those questions as well as; How do run my George Foreman Grill off my car’s battery? Where can I get "Manifold destiny: The definitve guide to cooking on your engine block?" How to build a loft bed so you can live in your garage and still park your car. Best of luck and say hi to the Billy Goats Gruff
Sounds to me more like the wife kicked him out of the house and he cannot afford an apartment. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ruminated: >> Oh, some more Questions: >> Is it easy to install a tub, shower, toilet and sink in the garage? >> Would I have to dig up the concrete garage floor or could I get access >> to the water pipes and drains by digging up dirt right outside the >> garage? >> Are jackhammers rentable? expensive? > I don’t understand. You have a garage but no house? > Naw, he has a bridge. Which he popped out from under in order to > troll us. > — > Eric Lee Green GnuPG public key at
http://badtux.org/eric/eric.gpg – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
gweedo opened all of our eyes with this: > SITUATION: > I found a ideal place to live, the garage. But, it’s needs some touch > ups and vermin and pest fumigation. The problem is my budget is low > ($200-$250). > TO THE PROS: > Q: These are rough brainstorming but what do you think? Is this job > feasable? Doable within 2 weeks? Anyone done this before?
I forget how much I charged for a rat infested "MHU" I really like the holes in the doors for vents. Good one! Thank you
look for an old buick just sitting on the streets and take it home and put it in the front of the garage and just stay there… roll the windows up or down for ventilation and you have it made…. heat?? just take an old drum and burn trash in it… or go to the other trailers and ask them if you can come in for a few minutes to get out of the cold…
| gweedo opened all of our eyes with this: | | > SITUATION: | > I found a ideal place to live, the garage. But, it’s needs some touch | > ups and vermin and pest fumigation. The problem is my budget is low | > ($200-$250). | > | > TO THE PROS: | > Q: These are rough brainstorming but what do you think? Is this job | > feasable? Doable within 2 weeks? Anyone done this before? | | | I forget how much I charged for a rat infested "MHU" | | I really like the holes in the doors for vents. | | Good one! | Thank you Put the wheels back on that hummer and get outta Dodge
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> Oh, some more Questions: >> Is it easy to install a tub, shower, toilet and sink in the garage? >> Would I have to dig up the concrete garage floor or could I get access >> to the water pipes and drains by digging up dirt right outside the >> garage? >> Are jackhammers rentable? expensive? > I don’t understand. You have a garage but no house? > Naw, he has a bridge. Which he popped out from under in order to > troll us.
The best thing to do is just kiss your wife’s ass and move back in the house.
>Sounds to me more like the wife kicked him out of the house and he cannot >afford an apartment.
Yes, something like that … but I don’t want to get personal. I might reveal more once I get this project on its way.
>The best thing to do is just kiss your wife’s ass and move back in the house.
I’m far too proud to do such a thing.
Please offer some real advice, especially on creation of a cheap insulated ceiling and where to get cheap/free wood/aluminum planks. Thanks.
>I don’t understand. You have a garage but no house?
I have been kicked out of the house. However, the garage is available for living. I’m trying to not let the other side have the last laugh by making my garage into my palace.
>I forget how much I charged for a rat infested "MHU"
My main concern are: roaches (big and small ones), black widows, fleas, mites, silverfish, earwigs, and mice. I don’t think I have a rat problem–don’t see big dung. For the meantime, until I get my plans completed and decide on which option to build, I shall be living in a tent in the garage to keep out the buggers.
>I don’t understand. You have a garage but no house? > I have been kicked out of the house. However, the garage is available > for living. I’m trying to not let the other side have the last laugh > by making my garage into my palace.
Oh, I can not WAIT to hear the outcome on this one. I have a feeling this is going to be extremely entertaining. I think that ‘the other side’ is ultimately going to get the last laugh by reporting you to the local code enforcement officer.
>I think that ‘the other side’ is ultimately going to get the last laugh by >reporting you to the local code enforcement officer.
That is why my project is aimed to be a temporary living quarter and easily to take apart (Option 1). With Option 2, I could just roll out the MHU. By the time the officer comes, I will have gotten rid of the evidence. My project design is a beauty is it not?
> SITUATION: > I found a ideal place to live, the garage. But, it’s needs some touch > ups and vermin and pest fumigation. The problem is my budget is low > ($200-$250).
More than enough… > Q: Do you think cardboard with insulation pads glued on it will do? > My roof is good (just retiled last year)–doesn’t leak. Should I > paint sealant on the cardboard just in case? Will epoxy work better?
Just the cardboard is a fine insulator in itself. No, don’t use epoxy. It has no insulating value. > 2. I need a cross current for ventalation and cooling. I was thinking > about cutting a hole in the garage door and one through the back door.
This only works if they are on opposite ends of the building and I think the back door has to be in the center of the wall to work (you could move it). > Q: Anyone know about efficient creation of cross currents? Since heat > flows up, should I cut a hole at a lower region and one at a higher > region.
See above. > 1. Construct a rectangular box using cardboard and duct tape. For the > flooring, use thin wooden boards placed over bamboo frame mounted on > rubber tires at the 4 corners. The whole MHU would be chained to one > end of the wall.
Rubber tires? There goes your whole budget. Just use more cardboard. > 2. Hookup a aluminum cylindrical tube onto both ends of the MHU to > provide cross current ventilation, with air filters installed.
See above. > TO THE PROS: > Q: These are rough brainstorming but what do you think? Is this job > feasable? Doable within 2 weeks? Anyone done this before?
I had mine complete in about 3 weeks (and that included the pool). > Q: Where can I get cheap or free building material (quality wooden > planks for flooring, quality large pieces of corrugated cardboard, > insulated pads, dry wall, paint, buzzsaws, welding tools, bucket of > epoxy)? I know they are out there since you can get free chains from > UPS.
In our neighbourhood, they pick one day a week for a sort of "help-a-friend" day where everyone places specially selected items at the end of the driveway for people to browse through. In fact, I think it is called "Garage Day" for people like you who may require these things. > I will keep you informed on my project and post pictures of the > before, during, and final result of my garage living quarters.
Please do….we’re all rooting for you…
> Is it easy to install a tub, shower, toilet and sink in the garage?
Sure, but do you really need the sink? > Would I have to dig up the concrete garage floor or could I get access > to the water pipes and drains by digging up dirt right outside the > garage?
Why dig up the floor? Just run the pipe on top of the concrete. Better yet, mount all fixtures next to the exterior walls and using a 90, run the pipe right out of the wall and drain to the exterior of the garage (you may want to think of a "moat" for a more professional look) > Are jackhammers rentable? expensive?
See above.
>> Oh, some more Questions: > Is it easy to install a tub, shower, toilet and sink in the garage? > Would I have to dig up the concrete garage floor or could I get access > to the water pipes and drains by digging up dirt right outside the > garage? > Are jackhammers rentable? expensive? > I don’t understand. You have a garage but no house?
Naw, he has a bridge. Which he popped out from under in order to troll us. — Eric Lee Green GnuPG public key at http://badtux.org/eric/eric.gpg
> Oh, some more Questions: > Is it easy to install a tub, shower, toilet and sink in the garage? > Would I have to dig up the concrete garage floor or could I get access > to the water pipes and drains by digging up dirt right outside the > garage? > Are jackhammers rentable? expensive?
I don’t understand. You have a garage but no house?
Oh, some more Questions: Is it easy to install a tub, shower, toilet and sink in the garage? Would I have to dig up the concrete garage floor or could I get access to the water pipes and drains by digging up dirt right outside the garage? Are jackhammers rentable? expensive?
SITUATION: I found a ideal place to live, the garage. But, it’s needs some touch ups and vermin and pest fumigation. The problem is my budget is low ($200-$250). OPTION 1: I was thinking about making the garage into a room (temporary room–one that can be disassembled quickly if my neighbor reports me to the housing police–quite frankly, I don’t care about damn rules–please I don’t want to hear it–I’ll take my chances). STEPS: 1. I would need to make a ceiling to provide some insulation from the heat of summer (90-100+ degrees F) and the cold of winter (35-45 degrees F). Q: Do you think cardboard with insulation pads glued on it will do? My roof is good (just retiled last year)–doesn’t leak. Should I paint sealant on the cardboard just in case? Will epoxy work better? 2. I need a cross current for ventalation and cooling. I was thinking about cutting a hole in the garage door and one through the back door. Q: Anyone know about efficient creation of cross currents? Since heat flows up, should I cut a hole at a lower region and one at a higher region. OPTION 2: Build a mobile housing unit (MHU) within the garage–like a minimobile home. STEPS: 1. Construct a rectangular box using cardboard and duct tape. For the flooring, use thin wooden boards placed over bamboo frame mounted on rubber tires at the 4 corners. The whole MHU would be chained to one end of the wall. 2. Hookup a aluminum cylindrical tube onto both ends of the MHU to provide cross current ventilation, with air filters installed. TO THE PROS: Q: These are rough brainstorming but what do you think? Is this job feasable? Doable within 2 weeks? Anyone done this before? Q: Where can I get cheap or free building material (quality wooden planks for flooring, quality large pieces of corrugated cardboard, insulated pads, dry wall, paint, buzzsaws, welding tools, bucket of epoxy)? I know they are out there since you can get free chains from UPS. NOTES: Oh, yes, I don’t have many tools and I never really constructed anything before (except those do it yourself desk kits and shelf kits). However, I’m an eager learner, good with algebra and know basic geometry, I’m pretty careful, and I have no choice … I have to live in the garage. Please provide any possible helpful tips. Thanks. I will keep you informed on my project and post pictures of the before, during, and final result of my garage living quarters.
gweedo opened all of our eyes with this: >I forget how much I charged for a rat infested "MHU" > My main concern are: roaches (big and small ones), black widows, > fleas, mites, silverfish, earwigs, and mice. I don’t think I have a > rat problem–don’t see big dung. > For the meantime, until I get my plans completed and decide on which > option to build, I shall be living in a tent in the garage to keep out > the buggers.
Did you stop taking your medication?
I rebuilt the 225 in my ‘80 pickup 7 years ago. I was looking for more bottom end power and went this route. A good cleanup milling of the block and head. .020 over TRW flat top pistons giving around a 9.5 to 1 compression ratio. Erson cam for RV(not sure of the specs now). Heavy steel crank(about twice the weight of the standard passenger car one). A marine intake (2bbl) and exhaust. The marine exhaust has larger passages and around a 2 3/4" outlet and the intake has a water passage for carb heat. I think Mercury Marine still has some of them floating around. The engine is very strong, but won’t rev up fast. I’ve got over 50,000 miles on the overhaul without any problems. Fuel mileage is around 20 running 3.55 gears and 30" tires. Bruce – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am looking for opinions on what/how to build up a 198 slant six 904 > auto. If at all possible I don’t want to change a cam, etc (crack > open the engine) seeing as it has less than 50,000 miles on it. I > currently have the Offenhauser 4bbl intake and a Holley 390cfm carb. > I am looking into purchasing headers for it (probably dual output). I > was wondering if anyone out there has a similar setup and has any > hints or comments about it. > Also, I live in Wisconsin (although the car in general will only be > driven in the summer months as I would like to keep it in nice shape) > and for heat problems with the intake I was planning on running > coolant through a homemade box below the intake to replace the > function of the original exhaust manifolds. > Thanks in advance for any comments and suggestions
> What’s the matter with points?
You’re kidding? > You could argue that they might bounce, but > the slant-six is not a high-revver (long stroke). > Points is one of the main reasons that I only drive older cars. Easy > diagnosis and repair!
Chrysler electronic ignition is simpler and far more reliable than points. I’m not talking about race-quality MSD ignition here or over-priced over-hyped Jacobs garbage. Just plain simple OEM Chrysler electronic. No moving parts. I’ve literally had the system run for 150,000 miles without changing anything but the plugs, wires, and distributor cap. And roadside emergency repair is as simple as carrying a spare ballast resistor (<$10.00) and a spare electronic module ($15.00-$20.00) in the glove box.
Electronic ignition can last a long time. Transistors never wear out, but they can fail at any time. Properly installed points always last around 15,000 miles. They wear out when their time comes, but will not fail unexpectedly. The only transistors in my car are in the radio (and that don’t work!). :-) Ken D. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Chrysler electronic ignition is simpler and far more reliable than > points. I’m not talking about race-quality MSD ignition here or > over-priced over-hyped Jacobs garbage. Just plain simple OEM Chrysler > electronic. No moving parts. I’ve literally had the system run for > 150,000 miles without changing anything but the plugs, wires, and > distributor cap. And roadside emergency repair is as simple as carrying > a spare ballast resistor (<$10.00) and a spare electronic module > ($15.00-$20.00) in the glove box.
Thanks to all that gave their input to this message. I’m going to hold on to all of my 4bbl stuff just in case I get bored later on (and get out of college so I can start making money) and feel like upgrading a cam and trying that kind of a setup. I think I am going to go with a super six setup for now and see how that does. As far as the heat box, yes that is what I was thinking about. As of right now I don’t really plan on driving it in the winter, but I would need to use it as a backup in case my primary vehicle breaks down since I only have two cars as of right now. As far as points, both of my cars are running them and I haven’t had any troubles with them so far (of course both my cars have only around 50,000 miles on them) Also, I keep a quick repair kit (cap, rotor, points, etc) in the trunk so if something does go wrong I can fix it in minutes and be on my way. Of course if I had spare money lying around electronic ignition might not be that bad! -DaDusterDude – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am looking for opinions on what/how to build up a 198 slant six 904 > auto. If at all possible I don’t want to change a cam, etc (crack > open the engine) seeing as it has less than 50,000 miles on it. I > currently have the Offenhauser 4bbl intake and a Holley 390cfm carb. > I am looking into purchasing headers for it (probably dual output). I > was wondering if anyone out there has a similar setup and has any > hints or comments about it. > Also, I live in Wisconsin (although the car in general will only be > driven in the summer months as I would like to keep it in nice shape) > and for heat problems with the intake I was planning on running > coolant through a homemade box below the intake to replace the > function of the original exhaust manifolds. > Thanks in advance for any comments and suggestions
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am looking for opinions on what/how to build up a 198 slant six 904 > auto. If at all possible I don’t want to change a cam, etc (crack > open the engine) seeing as it has less than 50,000 miles on it. I > currently have the Offenhauser 4bbl intake and a Holley 390cfm carb. > I am looking into purchasing headers for it (probably dual output). I > was wondering if anyone out there has a similar setup and has any > hints or comments about it. > Well, I think you have two conflicting desires here. You want to run a > 4-bbl and dual exhaust…. but in order to *use* that flow capability > you would HAVE to at least upgrade to a bigger cam and probably port the > head, raise the static compression ratio (new pistons) and install > larger valves also. And in the end, you’d have a high-strung, > lopey-idling machine that isn’t too streetable and would need you to > install a looser torque converter and taller rear-end gears (but would > be quite a bit of fun at speeed, nonetheless > What I would recommend in order to avoid cracking open the engine is > backing off your 4-barrel plan and going with a 2-barrel (a factory > setup called the "super six" from the mid-late 1970s) and upgrading to a > larger-diameter exhaust while sticking with a stock exhaust manifold. > The result will be VERY streetable, very reliable, and a noticeable (but > not earth-shattering) improvement in performance. > And defnintely convert to electronic ignition if you still have points.
Steve, I owned a 1970 Dart w/ a 225 slant that was stock as could be. I went to a couple of Slant 6 of America meeting locally and there I met many wacky Mopar folks. One gent in particular had a 1970 Dart similar to mine. He had recently rebuilt the motor, had bored it 0.20 over with a stock cam and manifold. He did modify the intake by welding in a plate that seperated each side of the manifold. He then placed a small 4 barrel (I think 390 cfm) so that each side (seperated by the plate) had it’s own primary and secondary barrels. He had to rig a funky linkage, but after driving his versus mine I’da say that 4 barrel worked well. I know this is anecdotal information that is years old, but it ran great to me. I had my Dart wrecked by a bitch in Caddy, so I never got the chance to make similar modifications. I certainly agree wholeheartedly about the electronic ignition. Take care, Basaltrock
What’s the matter with points? You could argue that they might bounce, but the slant-six is not a high-revver (long stroke). Points is one of the main reasons that I only drive older cars. Easy diagnosis and repair! Ken D. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > And defnintely convert to electronic ignition if you still have points.
But most likely the bushings are worn out in the distributor, time to upgrade to conversion kit. Barry A. Lee – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > What’s the matter with points? You could argue that they might bounce, but > the slant-six is not a high-revver (long stroke). > Points is one of the main reasons that I only drive older cars. Easy > diagnosis and repair! > Ken D. > And defnintely convert to electronic ignition if you still have points.
if you are only using it in summer months, on nice days i presume, is it really nesessary to heat the the intake, I think thats what you mean by homemade box. generally heat risers are to prevent icing. which will only hapen btw 0 and about 8 deg. below zero the air is dry(no icing will happen) and above "around 8 deg" the air is warm enough. that is not to say they don’t use the heat riser below zero, but odds of icing are really slim. also the cooler the air intake, the more power you will get, therefore puting a heat riser would contradict you;re goal. ps did I totally misinterprate you’re "box"? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am looking for opinions on what/how to build up a 198 slant six 904 > auto. If at all possible I don’t want to change a cam, etc (crack > open the engine) seeing as it has less than 50,000 miles on it. I > currently have the Offenhauser 4bbl intake and a Holley 390cfm carb. > I am looking into purchasing headers for it (probably dual output). I > was wondering if anyone out there has a similar setup and has any > hints or comments about it. > Well, I think you have two conflicting desires here. You want to run a > 4-bbl and dual exhaust…. but in order to *use* that flow capability > you would HAVE to at least upgrade to a bigger cam and probably port the > head, raise the static compression ratio (new pistons) and install > larger valves also. And in the end, you’d have a high-strung, > lopey-idling machine that isn’t too streetable and would need you to > install a looser torque converter and taller rear-end gears (but would > be quite a bit of fun at speeed, nonetheless > What I would recommend in order to avoid cracking open the engine is > backing off your 4-barrel plan and going with a 2-barrel (a factory > setup called the "super six" from the mid-late 1970s) and upgrading to a > larger-diameter exhaust while sticking with a stock exhaust manifold. > The result will be VERY streetable, very reliable, and a noticeable (but > not earth-shattering) improvement in performance. > And defnintely convert to electronic ignition if you still have points.
> I am looking for opinions on what/how to build up a 198 slant six 904 > auto. If at all possible I don’t want to change a cam, etc (crack > open the engine) seeing as it has less than 50,000 miles on it. I > currently have the Offenhauser 4bbl intake and a Holley 390cfm carb. > I am looking into purchasing headers for it (probably dual output). I > was wondering if anyone out there has a similar setup and has any > hints or comments about it.
Well, I think you have two conflicting desires here. You want to run a 4-bbl and dual exhaust…. but in order to *use* that flow capability you would HAVE to at least upgrade to a bigger cam and probably port the head, raise the static compression ratio (new pistons) and install larger valves also. And in the end, you’d have a high-strung, lopey-idling machine that isn’t too streetable and would need you to install a looser torque converter and taller rear-end gears (but would be quite a bit of fun at speeed, nonetheless What I would recommend in order to avoid cracking open the engine is backing off your 4-barrel plan and going with a 2-barrel (a factory setup called the "super six" from the mid-late 1970s) and upgrading to a larger-diameter exhaust while sticking with a stock exhaust manifold. The result will be VERY streetable, very reliable, and a noticeable (but not earth-shattering) improvement in performance. And defnintely convert to electronic ignition if you still have points.
I’d back Dan up on this one as it’s very sound advice. Currently Clifford has been very spotty at best in answering calls and getting parts out the door to /6 ‘ers. In the last six months Ma Daimler has left the slant crowd out to fend for themselves (this became evident when ordering a MP 243 cam and Double roller chain and ended up having to call Arizona to get the last one of seven left available…). Doug Dutra and the crowd over at www.slantsix.org has lots of info on what really works (even turbo and fuel injected slants!!!). If our 198 guy wanted to build up a good slant, those 198 long rods would make for a good long rod engine, or he could just get the 225 by putting 225 rods in the 198 block…. I’m about to run Dan’s formula in my own Feather Duster as soon as I can put it back together. come on over and join the crowd! -rob
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> There is no substitute for cubic inches, find a 225 and start with it. Check > out the aftermarket and factory parts from Clifford, and the Mopar > Performance catalog from your local Dodge dealership. Those slant six > engines are tough as nails, and will run forever, had one in a ‘70 > challenger (the only chrysler I have ever owned), and it took a teenagers > abuse and never missed a lick. Man, I miss that car… > Tom
There is no substitute for cubic inches, find a 225 and start with it. Check out the aftermarket and factory parts from Clifford, and the Mopar Performance catalog from your local Dodge dealership. Those slant six engines are tough as nails, and will run forever, had one in a ‘70 challenger (the only chrysler I have ever owned), and it took a teenagers abuse and never missed a lick. Man, I miss that car… Tom – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am looking for opinions on what/how to build up a 198 slant six 904 > auto. If at all possible I don’t want to change a cam, etc (crack > open the engine) seeing as it has less than 50,000 miles on it. I > currently have the Offenhauser 4bbl intake and a Holley 390cfm carb. > I am looking into purchasing headers for it (probably dual output). I > was wondering if anyone out there has a similar setup and has any > hints or comments about it. > For a street driver, you’ll be much happier if you back-off on the 4bbl. > Instead, use the excellent factory 2bbl "Super Six" setup with the Carter > 2bbl. MUCH better driveability cold and hot, better fuel economy, and not > nearly as much fussing and tweaking needed to keep it running right. You > can use this with the perfectly-adequate exhaust manifold or with a set of > DutraDuals, either of which is far superior on the street to headers > (because the manifold or DutraDuals doesn’t have noise/leak/rust/fit > problems, and keeps choke and manifold heat operational). Note that > oversell is VERY common when buying parts for engines like the slant-6. > 4bbls and headers have their places on slant-6s…but for most people, > this equipment is not the optimal setup for their purposes. This is > especially applicable to your "I don’t want to change the camshaft" > situation. The ‘72 stock camshaft is fine, but headers and a 4bbl are > contraindicated with it. > Your best mods, in no particular order: > Properly set-up 2bbl setup with stock manifold or DutraDuals > Electronic ignition with carefully set-up distributor timing curves > 3.23:1 rear axle ratio (You probably have 2.76, fine for cruising at 85 > mph all day long, but makes this heavy car a real stove off the line and > sabotages your engine mods) > 2 or 4-degree camshaft advance (does not require major teardown, just > removal of vibration damper and timing cover. ’72 was the first year for > soft nylon teeth on cam sprocket; replace with inexpensive and easily > available all-metal double-roller timing set; also pick up inexpensive > camshaft offset bushing kit to adjust cam timing) > The best online SL6 board is www.slantsix.org > DS, a/k/a Slant-6 Daniel
> I am looking for opinions on what/how to build up a 198 slant six 904 > auto. If at all possible I don’t want to change a cam, etc (crack > open the engine) seeing as it has less than 50,000 miles on it. I > currently have the Offenhauser 4bbl intake and a Holley 390cfm carb. > I am looking into purchasing headers for it (probably dual output). I > was wondering if anyone out there has a similar setup and has any > hints or comments about it.
For a street driver, you’ll be much happier if you back-off on the 4bbl. Instead, use the excellent factory 2bbl "Super Six" setup with the Carter 2bbl. MUCH better driveability cold and hot, better fuel economy, and not nearly as much fussing and tweaking needed to keep it running right. You can use this with the perfectly-adequate exhaust manifold or with a set of DutraDuals, either of which is far superior on the street to headers (because the manifold or DutraDuals doesn’t have noise/leak/rust/fit problems, and keeps choke and manifold heat operational). Note that oversell is VERY common when buying parts for engines like the slant-6. 4bbls and headers have their places on slant-6s…but for most people, this equipment is not the optimal setup for their purposes. This is especially applicable to your "I don’t want to change the camshaft" situation. The ‘72 stock camshaft is fine, but headers and a 4bbl are contraindicated with it. Your best mods, in no particular order: Properly set-up 2bbl setup with stock manifold or DutraDuals Electronic ignition with carefully set-up distributor timing curves 3.23:1 rear axle ratio (You probably have 2.76, fine for cruising at 85 mph all day long, but makes this heavy car a real stove off the line and sabotages your engine mods) 2 or 4-degree camshaft advance (does not require major teardown, just removal of vibration damper and timing cover. ’72 was the first year for soft nylon teeth on cam sprocket; replace with inexpensive and easily available all-metal double-roller timing set; also pick up inexpensive camshaft offset bushing kit to adjust cam timing) The best online SL6 board is www.slantsix.org DS, a/k/a Slant-6 Daniel
I am looking for opinions on what/how to build up a 198 slant six 904 auto. If at all possible I don’t want to change a cam, etc (crack open the engine) seeing as it has less than 50,000 miles on it. I currently have the Offenhauser 4bbl intake and a Holley 390cfm carb. I am looking into purchasing headers for it (probably dual output). I was wondering if anyone out there has a similar setup and has any hints or comments about it. Also, I live in Wisconsin (although the car in general will only be driven in the summer months as I would like to keep it in nice shape) and for heat problems with the intake I was planning on running coolant through a homemade box below the intake to replace the function of the original exhaust manifolds. Thanks in advance for any comments and suggestions
I am looking for opinions on what/how to build up a 198 slant six 904 auto. If at all possible I don’t want to change a cam, etc (crack open the engine) seeing as it has less than 50,000 miles on it. I currently have the Offenhauser 4bbl intake and a Holley 390cfm carb. I am looking into purchasing headers for it (probably dual output). I was wondering if anyone out there has a similar setup and has any hints or comments about it. Also, I live in Wisconsin (although the car in general will only be driven in the summer months as I would like to keep it in nice shape) and for heat problems with the intake I was planning on running coolant through a homemade box below the intake to replace the function of the original exhaust manifolds. Thanks in advance for any comments and suggestions
> I am looking for opinions on what/how to build up a 198 slant six 904 > auto. If at all possible I don’t want to change a cam, etc (crack > open the engine) seeing as it has less than 50,000 miles on it. I > currently have the Offenhauser 4bbl intake and a Holley 390cfm carb. > I am looking into purchasing headers for it (probably dual output). I > was wondering if anyone out there has a similar setup and has any > hints or comments about it.
For a street driver, you’ll be much happier if you back-off on the 4bbl. Instead, use the excellent factory 2bbl "Super Six" setup with the Carter 2bbl. MUCH better driveability cold and hot, better fuel economy, and not nearly as much fussing and tweaking needed to keep it running right. You can use this with the perfectly-adequate exhaust manifold or with a set of DutraDuals, either of which is far superior on the street to headers (because the manifold or DutraDuals doesn’t have noise/leak/rust/fit problems, and keeps choke and manifold heat operational). Note that oversell is VERY common when buying parts for engines like the slant-6. 4bbls and headers have their places on slant-6s…but for most people, this equipment is not the optimal setup for their purposes. This is especially applicable to your "I don’t want to change the camshaft" situation. The ‘72 stock camshaft is fine, but headers and a 4bbl are contraindicated with it. Your best mods, in no particular order: Properly set-up 2bbl setup with stock manifold or DutraDuals Electronic ignition with carefully set-up distributor timing curves 3.23:1 rear axle ratio (You probably have 2.76, fine for cruising at 85 mph all day long, but makes this heavy car a real stove off the line and sabotages your engine mods) 2 or 4-degree camshaft advance (does not require major teardown, just removal of vibration damper and timing cover. ’72 was the first year for soft nylon teeth on cam sprocket; replace with inexpensive and easily available all-metal double-roller timing set; also pick up inexpensive camshaft offset bushing kit to adjust cam timing) The best online SL6 board is www.slantsix.org DS, a/k/a Slant-6 Daniel
There is no substitute for cubic inches, find a 225 and start with it. Check out the aftermarket and factory parts from Clifford, and the Mopar Performance catalog from your local Dodge dealership. Those slant six engines are tough as nails, and will run forever, had one in a ‘70 challenger (the only chrysler I have ever owned), and it took a teenagers abuse and never missed a lick. Man, I miss that car… Tom – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am looking for opinions on what/how to build up a 198 slant six 904 > auto. If at all possible I don’t want to change a cam, etc (crack > open the engine) seeing as it has less than 50,000 miles on it. I > currently have the Offenhauser 4bbl intake and a Holley 390cfm carb. > I am looking into purchasing headers for it (probably dual output). I > was wondering if anyone out there has a similar setup and has any > hints or comments about it. > For a street driver, you’ll be much happier if you back-off on the 4bbl. > Instead, use the excellent factory 2bbl "Super Six" setup with the Carter > 2bbl. MUCH better driveability cold and hot, better fuel economy, and not > nearly as much fussing and tweaking needed to keep it running right. You > can use this with the perfectly-adequate exhaust manifold or with a set of > DutraDuals, either of which is far superior on the street to headers > (because the manifold or DutraDuals doesn’t have noise/leak/rust/fit > problems, and keeps choke and manifold heat operational). Note that > oversell is VERY common when buying parts for engines like the slant-6. > 4bbls and headers have their places on slant-6s…but for most people, > this equipment is not the optimal setup for their purposes. This is > especially applicable to your "I don’t want to change the camshaft" > situation. The ‘72 stock camshaft is fine, but headers and a 4bbl are > contraindicated with it. > Your best mods, in no particular order: > Properly set-up 2bbl setup with stock manifold or DutraDuals > Electronic ignition with carefully set-up distributor timing curves > 3.23:1 rear axle ratio (You probably have 2.76, fine for cruising at 85 > mph all day long, but makes this heavy car a real stove off the line and > sabotages your engine mods) > 2 or 4-degree camshaft advance (does not require major teardown, just > removal of vibration damper and timing cover. ’72 was the first year for > soft nylon teeth on cam sprocket; replace with inexpensive and easily > available all-metal double-roller timing set; also pick up inexpensive > camshaft offset bushing kit to adjust cam timing) > The best online SL6 board is www.slantsix.org > DS, a/k/a Slant-6 Daniel
I’d back Dan up on this one as it’s very sound advice. Currently Clifford has been very spotty at best in answering calls and getting parts out the door to /6 ‘ers. In the last six months Ma Daimler has left the slant crowd out to fend for themselves (this became evident when ordering a MP 243 cam and Double roller chain and ended up having to call Arizona to get the last one of seven left available…). Doug Dutra and the crowd over at www.slantsix.org has lots of info on what really works (even turbo and fuel injected slants!!!). If our 198 guy wanted to build up a good slant, those 198 long rods would make for a good long rod engine, or he could just get the 225 by putting 225 rods in the 198 block…. I’m about to run Dan’s formula in my own Feather Duster as soon as I can put it back together. come on over and join the crowd! -rob
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> There is no substitute for cubic inches, find a 225 and start with it. Check > out the aftermarket and factory parts from Clifford, and the Mopar > Performance catalog from your local Dodge dealership. Those slant six > engines are tough as nails, and will run forever, had one in a ‘70 > challenger (the only chrysler I have ever owned), and it took a teenagers > abuse and never missed a lick. Man, I miss that car… > Tom
> I am looking for opinions on what/how to build up a 198 slant six 904 > auto. If at all possible I don’t want to change a cam, etc (crack > open the engine) seeing as it has less than 50,000 miles on it. I > currently have the Offenhauser 4bbl intake and a Holley 390cfm carb. > I am looking into purchasing headers for it (probably dual output). I > was wondering if anyone out there has a similar setup and has any > hints or comments about it.
Well, I think you have two conflicting desires here. You want to run a 4-bbl and dual exhaust…. but in order to *use* that flow capability you would HAVE to at least upgrade to a bigger cam and probably port the head, raise the static compression ratio (new pistons) and install larger valves also. And in the end, you’d have a high-strung, lopey-idling machine that isn’t too streetable and would need you to install a looser torque converter and taller rear-end gears (but would be quite a bit of fun at speeed, nonetheless What I would recommend in order to avoid cracking open the engine is backing off your 4-barrel plan and going with a 2-barrel (a factory setup called the "super six" from the mid-late 1970s) and upgrading to a larger-diameter exhaust while sticking with a stock exhaust manifold. The result will be VERY streetable, very reliable, and a noticeable (but not earth-shattering) improvement in performance. And defnintely convert to electronic ignition if you still have points.
if you are only using it in summer months, on nice days i presume, is it really nesessary to heat the the intake, I think thats what you mean by homemade box. generally heat risers are to prevent icing. which will only hapen btw 0 and about 8 deg. below zero the air is dry(no icing will happen) and above "around 8 deg" the air is warm enough. that is not to say they don’t use the heat riser below zero, but odds of icing are really slim. also the cooler the air intake, the more power you will get, therefore puting a heat riser would contradict you;re goal. ps did I totally misinterprate you’re "box"? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am looking for opinions on what/how to build up a 198 slant six 904 > auto. If at all possible I don’t want to change a cam, etc (crack > open the engine) seeing as it has less than 50,000 miles on it. I > currently have the Offenhauser 4bbl intake and a Holley 390cfm carb. > I am looking into purchasing headers for it (probably dual output). I > was wondering if anyone out there has a similar setup and has any > hints or comments about it. > Well, I think you have two conflicting desires here. You want to run a > 4-bbl and dual exhaust…. but in order to *use* that flow capability > you would HAVE to at least upgrade to a bigger cam and probably port the > head, raise the static compression ratio (new pistons) and install > larger valves also. And in the end, you’d have a high-strung, > lopey-idling machine that isn’t too streetable and would need you to > install a looser torque converter and taller rear-end gears (but would > be quite a bit of fun at speeed, nonetheless > What I would recommend in order to avoid cracking open the engine is > backing off your 4-barrel plan and going with a 2-barrel (a factory > setup called the "super six" from the mid-late 1970s) and upgrading to a > larger-diameter exhaust while sticking with a stock exhaust manifold. > The result will be VERY streetable, very reliable, and a noticeable (but > not earth-shattering) improvement in performance. > And defnintely convert to electronic ignition if you still have points.
What’s the matter with points? You could argue that they might bounce, but the slant-six is not a high-revver (long stroke). Points is one of the main reasons that I only drive older cars. Easy diagnosis and repair! Ken D. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > And defnintely convert to electronic ignition if you still have points.
But most likely the bushings are worn out in the distributor, time to upgrade to conversion kit. Barry A. Lee – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > What’s the matter with points? You could argue that they might bounce, but > the slant-six is not a high-revver (long stroke). > Points is one of the main reasons that I only drive older cars. Easy > diagnosis and repair! > Ken D. > And defnintely convert to electronic ignition if you still have points.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am looking for opinions on what/how to build up a 198 slant six 904 > auto. If at all possible I don’t want to change a cam, etc (crack > open the engine) seeing as it has less than 50,000 miles on it. I > currently have the Offenhauser 4bbl intake and a Holley 390cfm carb. > I am looking into purchasing headers for it (probably dual output). I > was wondering if anyone out there has a similar setup and has any > hints or comments about it. > Well, I think you have two conflicting desires here. You want to run a > 4-bbl and dual exhaust…. but in order to *use* that flow capability > you would HAVE to at least upgrade to a bigger cam and probably port the > head, raise the static compression ratio (new pistons) and install > larger valves also. And in the end, you’d have a high-strung, > lopey-idling machine that isn’t too streetable and would need you to > install a looser torque converter and taller rear-end gears (but would > be quite a bit of fun at speeed, nonetheless > What I would recommend in order to avoid cracking open the engine is > backing off your 4-barrel plan and going with a 2-barrel (a factory > setup called the "super six" from the mid-late 1970s) and upgrading to a > larger-diameter exhaust while sticking with a stock exhaust manifold. > The result will be VERY streetable, very reliable, and a noticeable (but > not earth-shattering) improvement in performance. > And defnintely convert to electronic ignition if you still have points.
Steve, I owned a 1970 Dart w/ a 225 slant that was stock as could be. I went to a couple of Slant 6 of America meeting locally and there I met many wacky Mopar folks. One gent in particular had a 1970 Dart similar to mine. He had recently rebuilt the motor, had bored it 0.20 over with a stock cam and manifold. He did modify the intake by welding in a plate that seperated each side of the manifold. He then placed a small 4 barrel (I think 390 cfm) so that each side (seperated by the plate) had it’s own primary and secondary barrels. He had to rig a funky linkage, but after driving his versus mine I’da say that 4 barrel worked well. I know this is anecdotal information that is years old, but it ran great to me. I had my Dart wrecked by a bitch in Caddy, so I never got the chance to make similar modifications. I certainly agree wholeheartedly about the electronic ignition. Take care, Basaltrock
> What’s the matter with points?
You’re kidding? > You could argue that they might bounce, but > the slant-six is not a high-revver (long stroke). > Points is one of the main reasons that I only drive older cars. Easy > diagnosis and repair!
Chrysler electronic ignition is simpler and far more reliable than points. I’m not talking about race-quality MSD ignition here or over-priced over-hyped Jacobs garbage. Just plain simple OEM Chrysler electronic. No moving parts. I’ve literally had the system run for 150,000 miles without changing anything but the plugs, wires, and distributor cap. And roadside emergency repair is as simple as carrying a spare ballast resistor (<$10.00) and a spare electronic module ($15.00-$20.00) in the glove box.
Electronic ignition can last a long time. Transistors never wear out, but they can fail at any time. Properly installed points always last around 15,000 miles. They wear out when their time comes, but will not fail unexpectedly. The only transistors in my car are in the radio (and that don’t work!). :-) Ken D. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Chrysler electronic ignition is simpler and far more reliable than > points. I’m not talking about race-quality MSD ignition here or > over-priced over-hyped Jacobs garbage. Just plain simple OEM Chrysler > electronic. No moving parts. I’ve literally had the system run for > 150,000 miles without changing anything but the plugs, wires, and > distributor cap. And roadside emergency repair is as simple as carrying > a spare ballast resistor (<$10.00) and a spare electronic module > ($15.00-$20.00) in the glove box.
Thanks to all that gave their input to this message. I’m going to hold on to all of my 4bbl stuff just in case I get bored later on (and get out of college so I can start making money) and feel like upgrading a cam and trying that kind of a setup. I think I am going to go with a super six setup for now and see how that does. As far as the heat box, yes that is what I was thinking about. As of right now I don’t really plan on driving it in the winter, but I would need to use it as a backup in case my primary vehicle breaks down since I only have two cars as of right now. As far as points, both of my cars are running them and I haven’t had any troubles with them so far (of course both my cars have only around 50,000 miles on them) Also, I keep a quick repair kit (cap, rotor, points, etc) in the trunk so if something does go wrong I can fix it in minutes and be on my way. Of course if I had spare money lying around electronic ignition might not be that bad! -DaDusterDude – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am looking for opinions on what/how to build up a 198 slant six 904 > auto. If at all possible I don’t want to change a cam, etc (crack > open the engine) seeing as it has less than 50,000 miles on it. I > currently have the Offenhauser 4bbl intake and a Holley 390cfm carb. > I am looking into purchasing headers for it (probably dual output). I > was wondering if anyone out there has a similar setup and has any > hints or comments about it. > Also, I live in Wisconsin (although the car in general will only be > driven in the summer months as I would like to keep it in nice shape) > and for heat problems with the intake I was planning on running > coolant through a homemade box below the intake to replace the > function of the original exhaust manifolds. > Thanks in advance for any comments and suggestions
I rebuilt the 225 in my ‘80 pickup 7 years ago. I was looking for more bottom end power and went this route. A good cleanup milling of the block and head. .020 over TRW flat top pistons giving around a 9.5 to 1 compression ratio. Erson cam for RV(not sure of the specs now). Heavy steel crank(about twice the weight of the standard passenger car one). A marine intake (2bbl) and exhaust. The marine exhaust has larger passages and around a 2 3/4" outlet and the intake has a water passage for carb heat. I think Mercury Marine still has some of them floating around. The engine is very strong, but won’t rev up fast. I’ve got over 50,000 miles on the overhaul without any problems. Fuel mileage is around 20 running 3.55 gears and 30" tires. Bruce – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am looking for opinions on what/how to build up a 198 slant six 904 > auto. If at all possible I don’t want to change a cam, etc (crack > open the engine) seeing as it has less than 50,000 miles on it. I > currently have the Offenhauser 4bbl intake and a Holley 390cfm carb. > I am looking into purchasing headers for it (probably dual output). I > was wondering if anyone out there has a similar setup and has any > hints or comments about it. > Also, I live in Wisconsin (although the car in general will only be > driven in the summer months as I would like to keep it in nice shape) > and for heat problems with the intake I was planning on running > coolant through a homemade box below the intake to replace the > function of the original exhaust manifolds. > Thanks in advance for any comments and suggestions
>While my personal opinion would be that if you need plans for shelving >you probably shouldn’t be building any, …
***snip*** OK I’ll bite, why? Every beginner needs help and a plan for a basic shelving unit would be a good place to start. Once you have the basics you can then expand them to fit your needs. For the most part the more knowledgable members of this group realize this and after the obligatory wise-ass answers, sound advice and help is usually offered. I am relatively new to the DIY world and have posted a few "easy" questions and have appreciated folks taking the time to answer them. (even the chicken and a 1/2 laying an egg and 1/2 in a day and 1/2 guy) Please don’t assume because someone may not currently have knowledge they are incapable of accomplishing a task. Chris
Agree, you NEED to know what you DON’T know before you can correct it. I made some garage shelves by drilling some holes in 2X4s or 2X2s that would accept some metal rods as supports for off the shelf 1Xwhatever. Some horizontal spacers for stability and away you go. Holes were spaced about 1" apart vertically enabling adjusting the spacing. Recently used some fencing wood to make a stand for gardening supplies with the same lashup. >Please don’t assume because someone may not currently have knowledge they >are incapable of accomplishing a task.
Name works for E-mail
>I want to build some sturdy garage shelving along one wall, from floor to >ceiling, and about 24 in. deep. I’ve got plenty of room. I thought I would >build it from scratch using 2×4 framing and OSB. I also want 2×4 beams >across to support the shelves for maximum strength. But I can’t seem to >find any plans on how to build simple shelving. Anyone have suggestions or >know of a site somewhere that can guide me?
Just built two sets of shelves in my basement from the plans I found here: http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/inf/infshe/infshe3.shtm Great site, by the way for all kinds of a.h.r type advice. John
I made some in the past where each section had 4 2×4s with routed grooves for the plywood shelves every 6 inches for adjustability. I would make as many sections as required and attach the adjacent 2×4s together. — Jim
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I want to build some sturdy garage shelving along one wall, from floor to > ceiling, and about 24 in. deep. I’ve got plenty of room. I thought I would > build it from scratch using 2×4 framing and OSB. I also want 2×4 beams > across to support the shelves for maximum strength. But I can’t seem to > find any plans on how to build simple shelving. Anyone have suggestions or > know of a site somewhere that can guide me? > Thanks in advance! > — > Erik Coleman > Champaign, Illinois
>I want to build some sturdy garage shelving along one wall, from floor to >ceiling, and about 24 in. deep. I’ve got plenty of room. I thought I would >build it from scratch using 2×4 framing and OSB. I also want 2×4 beams >across to support the shelves for maximum strength. But I can’t seem to >find any plans on how to build simple shelving. Anyone have suggestions or >know of a site somewhere that can guide me?
While my personal opinion would be that if you need plans for shelving you probably shouldn’t be building any, the simples way would be to nail together box frames for each shelf, covered with OSB. Bolt them to upright 2×4’s every three to four feet and at the corners, bolts will hold better than nails. Jeff
Erik, Take a look at the following link: http://www.am-wood.com/nov98/shelf.html Hope this helps. Peter.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I want to build some sturdy garage shelving along one wall, from floor to > ceiling, and about 24 in. deep. I’ve got plenty of room. I thought I would > build it from scratch using 2×4 framing and OSB. I also want 2×4 beams > across to support the shelves for maximum strength. But I can’t seem to > find any plans on how to build simple shelving. Anyone have suggestions or > know of a site somewhere that can guide me? > Thanks in advance! > — > Erik Coleman > Champaign, Illinois
I know you want to build them, but the best thing I’ve ever used is some surplus wall gondola shelving from a retail store that closed (Mine, actually ;/ ). They are typically 7-ft tall, 4-ft wide and up to 2 ft deep. Shelves typically get smaller toward the top, but you may be able to get the same type all the way up. Each unit will support hundreds of pounds, they are nice-looking and easy to clean. Shelves are quickly adjustable. Should be able to buy them for <$100/section. — Rex Burkheimer Parts Plus Marketing Director WM Automotive Whse., Fort Worth TX NASCAR…. the WWF of racing!
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I want to build some sturdy garage shelving along one wall, from floor to > ceiling, and about 24 in. deep. I’ve got plenty of room. I thought I would > build it from scratch using 2×4 framing and OSB. I also want 2×4 beams > across to support the shelves for maximum strength. But I can’t seem to > find any plans on how to build simple shelving. Anyone have suggestions or > know of a site somewhere that can guide me? > Thanks in advance! > — > Erik Coleman > Champaign, Illinois
I want to build some sturdy garage shelving along one wall, from floor to ceiling, and about 24 in. deep. I’ve got plenty of room. I thought I would build it from scratch using 2×4 framing and OSB. I also want 2×4 beams across to support the shelves for maximum strength. But I can’t seem to find any plans on how to build simple shelving. Anyone have suggestions or know of a site somewhere that can guide me? Thanks in advance! — Erik Coleman Champaign, Illinois
I hate OSB, and therefore recommend plywood. Design considerations are: Do you want them freestanding, or can they be screwed to the walls and ceiling? Do you want the shelves to be movable? The easiest thing is to use non-movable shelves, permanantly screwed to the walls. In which case, you screw 2×4s to 2′x8′ hunks of plywood/osb, making upside-down boxes. Then you screw those to 2×4 posts. Then you screw the whole assembly to the wall. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I want to build some sturdy garage shelving along one wall, from floor to > ceiling, and about 24 in. deep. I’ve got plenty of room. I thought I would > build it from scratch using 2×4 framing and OSB. I also want 2×4 beams > across to support the shelves for maximum strength. But I can’t seem to > find any plans on how to build simple shelving. Anyone have suggestions or > know of a site somewhere that can guide me? > Thanks in advance! > — > Erik Coleman > Champaign, Illinois
My first year no matter what I did my water was green, this year I had a small algae bloom in the spring, and it has been clear since.
(Note: I do not use _all_ these suggestions. I have clear water and credit mechanical filtration, a healthy bed of anacharis and veggie filtration with water hyacinths in my stock tank filter. All these suggestions have worked for other folks, just depends on the individual pond and ponder.) To achieve clear water, instead of pea soup green water, in your pond you should: ~ Learn as much as you can about the natural balance of a pond and realizing that new ponds must go through a growth period which usually means green water before balance occurs. ~ Mother Nature designs pond to have few fish, many plants and subtraction and addition of new water from time to time. She lets the fish find food on their own, lets the fish fertilize the plants, encourages predators and lets the plants run rampant. She never cleans her ponds out unless she sends a flood. If things really get out of control she throws up her hands and lets the chips fall where they may – lets the pond fill in, turn emerald green, flood it out, earthquakes, hurricanes, record snowfall, elections too close to call – whatever… ~We pondkeepers stuff in lots of pretty fish, spoil them rotten with tasty fish chow, over fertilize our plants and do everything possible to discourage predators. ~Plan on 20 gallons of water per goldfish and 100 gallons of water per koi and as many plants as you can stuff in. ~ Do not use chemicals, killing algae just makes lots of suddenly dead algae, rotting algae robs the pond of oxygen and makes more stuff for the new algae to feed on (unless you have a bottom drain to get it out). ~ Do not worry about green fuzzy algae on the side of the pond, that is good algae and helps balance your pond. ~ Ignore a little string algae. ~ Install bottom drains and skimmers for ease of removing sludge and debris. ~ Net the pond during the Fall to keep leaves out of the pond. ~ Trim dead growth from the plants and removing floating tropicals if you live in colder climates. ~ Lower your fish stocking, not over feeding fish – algae loves fish waste (lots of yummy phosphorous) ~ Add lots plants of any type, marginal plants such as reeds, cattails, iris, pickerel weed, arrowhead, floaters such as water hyacinth, water lettuce and lots of underwater plants such as anacharis uses the nutrients up that the algae would like. ~ Shade – lilies, the floaters (water hyacinth and water lettuce) and artificial shade – shade cloth, umbrella, arch or trellis planted with vines, No sun for the algae. ~ Clean up debris from the bottom of the pond and stock snails to chew up the debris – less decaying stuff for algae food. ~ Cut back or stop fertilizing plants – same principle. ~ Plant in fine gravel and top with larger rocks if you have koi. ~ Mechanical filtration of the fish waste – usually a settling chamber in your filter, or the first row of brushs, filter media. ~ Biological filtration – more than you think you need as your fish are going to grow and you will probably add more fish to your pond via purchase or your fish breeding in the pond. (This does not help with the algae problem but contributes to the overall health of your fish and any critters. ~ Construct a veggie filter – an area, 10% to 20%, of the size of your pond surface area. A couple of inches deeper than the plant baskets (the rigid black mesh baskets made specifically for water plants) you are going to use to plant in. Plant the baskets with marginal plants with fine gravel. Pump the pond water through at a turnover rate per hour 1/2 to 1/4 of the pond volume. Veggie filter uses up many of the nutrients and provides a good place for bacteria to grow. Build it with a bottom drain (or two) for ease of cleaning – very important or you’ll end up with backups and leaking over the edge. Go here to read a great description about how to build one http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/garden.html or A veggie filter can be as simple as floating water hyacinth at the top of your stock tank filter. Mine get to be almost three feet tall with leaves as big as my hand. ~ Purchase sludge eating product – concentrated bacteria culture. ~ Some folks love their UV sterilizer. Does cost some $. And you have to change the bulb every year. ~ Add a bale of barley straw to your pond for string algae. Read this webpage http://hometown.aol.com/rosiedawg/myhomepage/collection.html ~Phosphate Remover – It comes in a large clear container (maybe about gallon sized) but it’s also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It’s usually near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such as ammonia remover and such. You measure out the amount suitable for your pond size, place it in a mesh bag, and first soak it in a pail before you put it in your filter. You need to soak it because it gives off heat when it first gets wet. ~ Make sacrifices to the Pond Goddess. Run to your nearest garden center and buy a gazing ball, a dragonfly garden stake and bullfrog spitter. Place around your pond and ask humbly for clear water. ~ Patience, patience and eternal optimism. k30a-and-the-watergardening-labradors <A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/writing.html">:-) no more green water </A>
My pond is only 2 weeks old and it already has algae in it. I bought some Pond Block and put 1 block in my 220 gallon pre-formed pond on Labor Day. On Wednesday, I didn’t notice any difference and put another block in. The directions state that for the first application, you may need to put in a block for every 100 gallons instead of the normal 1/200 gallons. Has anyone else tried this and is it any good. I think that it is a Jungle Pond product.
My first year no matter what I did my water was green, this year I had a small algae bloom in the spring, and it has been clear since.
(Note: I do not use _all_ these suggestions. I have clear water and credit mechanical filtration, a healthy bed of anacharis and veggie filtration with water hyacinths in my stock tank filter. All these suggestions have worked for other folks, just depends on the individual pond and ponder.) To achieve clear water, instead of pea soup green water, in your pond you should: ~ Learn as much as you can about the natural balance of a pond and realizing that new ponds must go through a growth period which usually means green water before balance occurs. ~ Mother Nature designs pond to have few fish, many plants and subtraction and addition of new water from time to time. She lets the fish find food on their own, lets the fish fertilize the plants, encourages predators and lets the plants run rampant. She never cleans her ponds out unless she sends a flood. If things really get out of control she throws up her hands and lets the chips fall where they may – lets the pond fill in, turn emerald green, flood it out, earthquakes, hurricanes, record snowfall, elections too close to call – whatever… ~We pondkeepers stuff in lots of pretty fish, spoil them rotten with tasty fish chow, over fertilize our plants and do everything possible to discourage predators. ~Plan on 20 gallons of water per goldfish and 100 gallons of water per koi and as many plants as you can stuff in. ~ Do not use chemicals, killing algae just makes lots of suddenly dead algae, rotting algae robs the pond of oxygen and makes more stuff for the new algae to feed on (unless you have a bottom drain to get it out). ~ Do not worry about green fuzzy algae on the side of the pond, that is good algae and helps balance your pond. ~ Ignore a little string algae. ~ Install bottom drains and skimmers for ease of removing sludge and debris. ~ Net the pond during the Fall to keep leaves out of the pond. ~ Trim dead growth from the plants and removing floating tropicals if you live in colder climates. ~ Lower your fish stocking, not over feeding fish – algae loves fish waste (lots of yummy phosphorous) ~ Add lots plants of any type, marginal plants such as reeds, cattails, iris, pickerel weed, arrowhead, floaters such as water hyacinth, water lettuce and lots of underwater plants such as anacharis uses the nutrients up that the algae would like. ~ Shade – lilies, the floaters (water hyacinth and water lettuce) and artificial shade – shade cloth, umbrella, arch or trellis planted with vines, No sun for the algae. ~ Clean up debris from the bottom of the pond and stock snails to chew up the debris – less decaying stuff for algae food. ~ Cut back or stop fertilizing plants – same principle. ~ Plant in fine gravel and top with larger rocks if you have koi. ~ Mechanical filtration of the fish waste – usually a settling chamber in your filter, or the first row of brushs, filter media. ~ Biological filtration – more than you think you need as your fish are going to grow and you will probably add more fish to your pond via purchase or your fish breeding in the pond. (This does not help with the algae problem but contributes to the overall health of your fish and any critters. ~ Construct a veggie filter – an area, 10% to 20%, of the size of your pond surface area. A couple of inches deeper than the plant baskets (the rigid black mesh baskets made specifically for water plants) you are going to use to plant in. Plant the baskets with marginal plants with fine gravel. Pump the pond water through at a turnover rate per hour 1/2 to 1/4 of the pond volume. Veggie filter uses up many of the nutrients and provides a good place for bacteria to grow. Build it with a bottom drain (or two) for ease of cleaning – very important or you’ll end up with backups and leaking over the edge. Go here to read a great description about how to build one http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/garden.html or A veggie filter can be as simple as floating water hyacinth at the top of your stock tank filter. Mine get to be almost three feet tall with leaves as big as my hand. ~ Purchase sludge eating product – concentrated bacteria culture. ~ Some folks love their UV sterilizer. Does cost some $. And you have to change the bulb every year. ~ Add a bale of barley straw to your pond for string algae. Read this webpage http://hometown.aol.com/rosiedawg/myhomepage/collection.html ~Phosphate Remover – It comes in a large clear container (maybe about gallon sized) but it’s also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It’s usually near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such as ammonia remover and such. You measure out the amount suitable for your pond size, place it in a mesh bag, and first soak it in a pail before you put it in your filter. You need to soak it because it gives off heat when it first gets wet. ~ Make sacrifices to the Pond Goddess. Run to your nearest garden center and buy a gazing ball, a dragonfly garden stake and bullfrog spitter. Place around your pond and ask humbly for clear water. ~ Patience, patience and eternal optimism. k30a-and-the-watergardening-labradors <A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/writing.html">:-) no more green water </A>
My pond is only 2 weeks old and it already has algae in it. I bought some Pond Block and put 1 block in my 220 gallon pre-formed pond on Labor Day. On Wednesday, I didn’t notice any difference and put another block in. The directions state that for the first application, you may need to put in a block for every 100 gallons instead of the normal 1/200 gallons. Has anyone else tried this and is it any good. I think that it is a Jungle Pond product.
Hi, Has anyone heard of putting pennies or copper fitting etc. in pond to control algae? What would be the effects on plants and fish if this should work on algae? Thanks for any imput…Colene
using copper ions is a well proven sanitizer and is growing in popularity in swimming pool use. But I don’t think just immersing copper will do, they all use electricity to "release" ions into the water. Most also use another metal (can’t think what). The copper is just a coating on an electrode, it wears away with use.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, Has anyone heard of putting pennies or copper fitting etc. in pond to > control algae? What would be the effects on plants and fish if this should > work on algae? Thanks for any imput…Colene
This goes around every once and a while… Copper is both a micro nutrient and toxic to plants. (at different levels for different plants) copper as a metal is extreemly stable at the pH that is healthy for your pond, (that is the reason copper pipes last so well) and this means that there is little or no free copper available from a bag of pennies. (and I think US pennies contain a lot of zinc as well) As Micheal points out there are Ionizing systems and they work as described. I have also spoken to people who have used copper sulphate in small amounts to control algae. A word of caution with copper however, while it does kill or inhibit algea at different levels it is also toxic to the "good bacteria" in your filter, any dragonfly mayfly nymphs you may have, all of your invertibrates, (snails, clams), vascular plants, other plants and your fish… I do know those who use it but it is not something I am willing to do as there are other ways to make your pond unattractive to algae – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >using copper ions is a well proven sanitizer and is growing in popularity in >swimming pool use. But I don’t think just immersing copper will do, they all >use electricity to "release" ions into the water. Most also use another >metal (can’t think what). The copper is just a coating on an electrode, it >wears away with use. > Hi, Has anyone heard of putting pennies or copper fitting etc. in pond to > control algae? What would be the effects on plants and fish if this >should > work on algae? Thanks for any imput…Colene
EVERYTHING is true … for a given value of true.
Andrew Marshall wrote <<I do know those who use it but it is not something I am willing to do as there are other ways to make your pond unattractive to algae>> Sounds like a good time to post the green water tips… Green water solutions ~ learning as much as you can about the natural balance of a pond and realizing that new ponds must go through a growth period which usually means green water before balance occurs. ~ Mother Nature designs pond to have few fish, many plants and subtraction and addition of new water from time to time. She lets the fish find food on their own, lets the fish fertilize the plants, encourages predators and lets the plants run rampant. She never cleans her ponds out unless she sends a flood. If things really get out of control she throws up her hands and lets the chips fall where they may – lets the pond fill in, turn emerald green, flood it out, earthquakes, hurricanes, record snowfall, elections too close to call – whatever… ~We pondkeepers stuff in lots of pretty fish, spoil them rotten with tasty fish chow, over fertilize our plants and do everything possible to discourage predators. ~Plan on 20 gallons of water per goldfish and 100 gallons of water per koi and as many plants as you can stuff in. ~ do not use chemicals, killing algae just makes lots of suddenly dead algae, rotting algae robs the pond of oxygen and makes more stuff for the new algae to feed on (unless you have a bottom drain to get it out). ~lower fish stocking, not over feeding fish – algae loves fish waste (lots of yummy phosphorous) ~ lots plants of any type, marginal plants such as reeds, cattails, iris, pickerel weed, arrowhead, floaters such as water hyacinth, water lettuce and lots of underwater plants such as anacharis uses the nutrients up that the algae would like. ~ shade (lilies, the floaters and artificial shade – shade cloth, umbrella, arch or trellis planted with vines) no sun for the algae ~ cleaning up debris from the bottom of the pond and stocking snails to chew up the debris – less decaying stuff for algae food. ~ cut back or stop fertilizing plants – same principle. ~ planting in _well_ rinsed plain kitty litter, sand or fine gravel. ~ mechanical filtration of the fish waste. ~ biological filtration – more than you think you need as your fish are going to grow and you will probably add more fish to your pond via purchase or your fish breeding in the pond. ~ veggie filter – an area, 10% to 20%, of the size of your pond surface area. A couple of inches deeper than the plant baskets (the rigid black mesh baskets made specifically for water plants) you are going to use to plant in. Plant the baskets with marginal plants with fine gravel. Pump the pond water through at a turnover rate per hour 1/2 to 1/4 of the pond volume. Veggie filter uses up many of the nutrients and provides a good place for bacteria to grow. Build it with a bottom drain (or two) for ease of cleaning – very important or you’ll end up with backups and leaking over the edge. Go here to read a great description about how to build one http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/garden.html ~ a sludge eating product – concentrated bacteria culture. ~ some folks love their UV sterilizer. Does cost some $. ~ adding a bale of barley straw to your pond. Read this webpage http://hometown.aol.com/rosiedawg/myhomepage/collection.html – Phosphate Remover – It comes in a large clear container (maybe about gallon sized) but it’s also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It’s usually near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such as ammonia remover and such. You measure out the amount suitable for your pond size, place it in a mesh bag, and first soak it in a pail before you put it in your filter. You need to soak it because it gives off heat when it first gets wet. ~ do not worry about green fuzzy algae on the side of the pond, that is good algae and helps balance your pond. ~ ignoring a little string algae. ~ installing bottom drains and skimmers for ease of removing sludge and debris. ~ netting the pond during the Fall to keep leaves out of the pond. ~ trimming dead growth from the plants and removing floating tropicals if you live in colder climates. ~ Sacrifices to the Pond Goddess. Run to your nearest garden center and buy a gazing ball, a dragonfly garden stake and bullfrog spitter. Place around your pond and ask humbly for clear water. ~ patience, patience and eternal optimism. k30a-and-the-watergardening-labradors <A HREF="http://www.daydreamergardens.com/2_level/articles/dog_how_to.htm">See the watergardening labradors </A>
Hi, Has anyone heard of putting pennies or copper fitting etc. in pond to control algae? What would be the effects on plants and fish if this should work on algae? Thanks for any imput…Colene
using copper ions is a well proven sanitizer and is growing in popularity in swimming pool use. But I don’t think just immersing copper will do, they all use electricity to "release" ions into the water. Most also use another metal (can’t think what). The copper is just a coating on an electrode, it wears away with use.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, Has anyone heard of putting pennies or copper fitting etc. in pond to > control algae? What would be the effects on plants and fish if this should > work on algae? Thanks for any imput…Colene
This goes around every once and a while… Copper is both a micro nutrient and toxic to plants. (at different levels for different plants) copper as a metal is extreemly stable at the pH that is healthy for your pond, (that is the reason copper pipes last so well) and this means that there is little or no free copper available from a bag of pennies. (and I think US pennies contain a lot of zinc as well) As Micheal points out there are Ionizing systems and they work as described. I have also spoken to people who have used copper sulphate in small amounts to control algae. A word of caution with copper however, while it does kill or inhibit algea at different levels it is also toxic to the "good bacteria" in your filter, any dragonfly mayfly nymphs you may have, all of your invertibrates, (snails, clams), vascular plants, other plants and your fish… I do know those who use it but it is not something I am willing to do as there are other ways to make your pond unattractive to algae – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >using copper ions is a well proven sanitizer and is growing in popularity in >swimming pool use. But I don’t think just immersing copper will do, they all >use electricity to "release" ions into the water. Most also use another >metal (can’t think what). The copper is just a coating on an electrode, it >wears away with use. > Hi, Has anyone heard of putting pennies or copper fitting etc. in pond to > control algae? What would be the effects on plants and fish if this >should > work on algae? Thanks for any imput…Colene
EVERYTHING is true … for a given value of true.
Andrew Marshall wrote <<I do know those who use it but it is not something I am willing to do as there are other ways to make your pond unattractive to algae>> Sounds like a good time to post the green water tips… Green water solutions ~ learning as much as you can about the natural balance of a pond and realizing that new ponds must go through a growth period which usually means green water before balance occurs. ~ Mother Nature designs pond to have few fish, many plants and subtraction and addition of new water from time to time. She lets the fish find food on their own, lets the fish fertilize the plants, encourages predators and lets the plants run rampant. She never cleans her ponds out unless she sends a flood. If things really get out of control she throws up her hands and lets the chips fall where they may – lets the pond fill in, turn emerald green, flood it out, earthquakes, hurricanes, record snowfall, elections too close to call – whatever… ~We pondkeepers stuff in lots of pretty fish, spoil them rotten with tasty fish chow, over fertilize our plants and do everything possible to discourage predators. ~Plan on 20 gallons of water per goldfish and 100 gallons of water per koi and as many plants as you can stuff in. ~ do not use chemicals, killing algae just makes lots of suddenly dead algae, rotting algae robs the pond of oxygen and makes more stuff for the new algae to feed on (unless you have a bottom drain to get it out). ~lower fish stocking, not over feeding fish – algae loves fish waste (lots of yummy phosphorous) ~ lots plants of any type, marginal plants such as reeds, cattails, iris, pickerel weed, arrowhead, floaters such as water hyacinth, water lettuce and lots of underwater plants such as anacharis uses the nutrients up that the algae would like. ~ shade (lilies, the floaters and artificial shade – shade cloth, umbrella, arch or trellis planted with vines) no sun for the algae ~ cleaning up debris from the bottom of the pond and stocking snails to chew up the debris – less decaying stuff for algae food. ~ cut back or stop fertilizing plants – same principle. ~ planting in _well_ rinsed plain kitty litter, sand or fine gravel. ~ mechanical filtration of the fish waste. ~ biological filtration – more than you think you need as your fish are going to grow and you will probably add more fish to your pond via purchase or your fish breeding in the pond. ~ veggie filter – an area, 10% to 20%, of the size of your pond surface area. A couple of inches deeper than the plant baskets (the rigid black mesh baskets made specifically for water plants) you are going to use to plant in. Plant the baskets with marginal plants with fine gravel. Pump the pond water through at a turnover rate per hour 1/2 to 1/4 of the pond volume. Veggie filter uses up many of the nutrients and provides a good place for bacteria to grow. Build it with a bottom drain (or two) for ease of cleaning – very important or you’ll end up with backups and leaking over the edge. Go here to read a great description about how to build one http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/garden.html ~ a sludge eating product – concentrated bacteria culture. ~ some folks love their UV sterilizer. Does cost some $. ~ adding a bale of barley straw to your pond. Read this webpage http://hometown.aol.com/rosiedawg/myhomepage/collection.html – Phosphate Remover – It comes in a large clear container (maybe about gallon sized) but it’s also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It’s usually near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such as ammonia remover and such. You measure out the amount suitable for your pond size, place it in a mesh bag, and first soak it in a pail before you put it in your filter. You need to soak it because it gives off heat when it first gets wet. ~ do not worry about green fuzzy algae on the side of the pond, that is good algae and helps balance your pond. ~ ignoring a little string algae. ~ installing bottom drains and skimmers for ease of removing sludge and debris. ~ netting the pond during the Fall to keep leaves out of the pond. ~ trimming dead growth from the plants and removing floating tropicals if you live in colder climates. ~ Sacrifices to the Pond Goddess. Run to your nearest garden center and buy a gazing ball, a dragonfly garden stake and bullfrog spitter. Place around your pond and ask humbly for clear water. ~ patience, patience and eternal optimism. k30a-and-the-watergardening-labradors <A HREF="http://www.daydreamergardens.com/2_level/articles/dog_how_to.htm">See the watergardening labradors </A>
>- Phosphate Remover – It comes in a large clear container (maybe about >gallon >sized) but it’s also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It’s usually >near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such as >ammonia remover and such.
This is probably alum, aluminum sulfate. It won’t work for Sylvia, because her water has high alkalinity. (Alum can bind phosphate, but it’s effective only if the KH and pH are low. At normal pond pH and KH, it just forms aluminum hydroxide. So "phosphate remover" is generally ineffective in ponds.) In soft water, alum can be an effective coagulant to clear muddy water. – Rod
Thank you all for the varied and helpful info. I decided after doing some research that I’d go ahead and get a UV sterilizer. I have tried to do a head count and it appears there are 6 or so koi and about 20 goldfish of varying sizes. Of course, I’m not counting the fry. Too many of them to keep track of. I do wonder about phosphate now that I’ll be using a UV to rid the water of floating algae. Do I need to use a product which removes phosphate? Certainly don’t want my fish friends to die. I tested the water yesterday and all seems fine. I was suprised to find it in such good condition. Thanks again for your help. Sylvia
Sylvia << Do I need to use a product which removes phosphate? >> That is on my green water list but I have to say I have not used it. Just like UV is on the list but also don’t use it. Usually green water is kept at bay with a number of different methods. If you can afford UV I say go for it! Take no quarters when it comes to green water Good luck and let us know what happens. k30a-and-the-watergardening-labradors
>I do wonder about phosphate now that I’ll be using a UV to rid the water >of floating algae. Do I need to use a product which removes phosphate? >Certainly don’t want my fish friends to die. >I tested the water yesterday and all seems fine. I was suprised to find >it in such good condition. >Thanks again for your help. >Sylvia
I got a UV. Never added anything to the pond and its crystal now. Took about 3 days after the UV installed. Whats phosphate for ? Steve
Hi Steve, Wow! No green water in only 3 days! Thought I was excited about my upcoming UV arrival but now I’m feeling like a kid at Christmas. I beileve phosphates are a byproduct of fish poo. They feed the algae.
The phosphate in question comes from this suggestion that I added to the green water solutions. >- Phosphate Remover – It comes in a large clear container (maybe about gallon
sized) but it’s also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It’s usually near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such as ammonia remover and such. You measure out the amount suitable for your pond size, place it in a mesh bag, and first soak it in a pail before you put it in your filter. You need to soak it because it gives off heat when it first gets wet.<< I have added hints over the years and this is one of them. My clear water comes from anacharis and a veggie filter full of water hyacinths (14" tall and dark green!) — but I list all suggestions, even ones I don’t use, like UV or phosphate remover – as every pond and ponder is different and what works for me might not work for others. A toast to gin clear water! k30a-and-the-watergardening-labradors <A HREF="http://www.daydreamergardens.com/2_level/articles/dog_how_to.htm">See the watergardening labradors </A>
I didnt have green water until I cleaned out the big pond and my mothers and moved the 13 fish to my pond and that doubled the number of koi, then it went murky and I had the UV sitting upstairs somebody gave it to me. 3 days after hooking it up the water was clear. INgrid >Hi Steve, > Wow! No green water in only 3 days! Thought I was excited about my >upcoming UV arrival but now I’m feeling like a kid at Christmas. > I beileve phosphates are a byproduct of fish poo. They feed the >algae.
List manager- Puregold http://puregold.aquaria.net/ http://users.megapathdsl.net/~solo/solo/index.html Solve the problem, dont waste energy looking for who’s to blame Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the work, endorsements and recommendations I make. And my husband has the bills to prove it!
Hi Sylvia You should still make Water changes on a regular basis. Ten percent a month and syphon from the bottom. If you don,t have a bottom drain. With a lot of plants you should not have green water. This could be caused by a Bacterial Bloom from the bottom of the Pond. Water quality is primo in keeping fish healthy. Filters are great but good pond maintenance is still a Must. People get lulled into a comfort zone with good Filters and UV’s and still have fish get sick or die. Ya gotta make changes Know Matter what test kits say. Put your nozzle on spray when filling. Good Luck with your new Home!! ALDI.
>I bought a home three months ago which has a koi pond. It’s filled with >koi, goldfish and many, many plants. If it weren’t for the green water >it would be beautiful. I began runnng the biofilter two months ago but >the water is still green. I’m wondering if I can do a complete water
Biofilter is to convert fish waste to plant food, not remove algae Go to http://www.koivet.com and read… LOTS of information >change to correct the problem or maybe add a UV sterilizer or clarifier.
Water change is not a long term solution (algae will only grow again) and has it’s own set of problems (chemicals added to city water) >I’m new to watergardening and so far the only info I’ve read is online. >Can anyone advise me as to what I should do? Sylvia
UV light, of a size that is correct for your gallons, will kill algae (do note that bulbs must be replaced annually) John Thomas Smith Personal Page and CatBox FAQ http://www.pacifier.com/~jtsmith Direct 2 U Pond Emporium Compare Our Pond Prices !!! Pumps/Filters/Liner/Accessories http://www.pacifier.com/~tkaufman
>Adding the proper size UV light will take care of your green water in under >a week. Your water will look beautiful. > I bought a home three months ago which has a koi pond. It’s filled with > koi, goldfish and many, many plants. If it weren’t for the green water > it would be beautiful. I began runnng the biofilter two months ago but > the water is still green. I’m wondering if I can do a complete water > change to correct the problem or maybe add a UV sterilizer or clarifier. > I’m new to watergardening and so far the only info I’ve read is online. > Can anyone advise me as to what I should do? Sylvia
Hello Sylvia. While a UV sterilizer will clean the water up there are cheaper ways to keep the pond clean. Plants will do a wonderful job of keeping the water clear. If your pond is over crowded you need to get rid of some of the fish. An overcrowded pond will be a headache no matter what type of filter you put on it. Try to find a pond club or association in your area. Talk to successful ponders and I am sure they will steer you in the right direction. You don’t state what size of pond you have, how many fish, and what size and type of filter you have. To try and diagnose your porblem in this group will take more information. Maybe a UV sterilizer is the answer. Maybe all it will do is successfuly run your light bill up. Try to visit other ponders in your area. They might try to push extra plants or fish off on you, but they will be helpful with your pond. A pond store will try to sell everything you need to be a successful ponder. BEWARE! They will have you to believe all of that equipment is necessary, it isn’t. There are a whole lot of people who have great looking ponds and they don’t have expensive UV filters and such. The fish won’t die because of the ponds present condition. Go to the library and see what info you can find there. (oops I am letting my age out) Look on the internet and see what you can find about ponds. There is a site that has useful information on it and isn’t strictly there to sell you stuff. www.coloradokoi.com There is also a news letter that comes on my e-mail with good information not infomercials. I will try forward the next one to you. Take the time to learn about your pond this winter and next year you will be ready to start out right from the beginning of the season. Take care not to replace to much water as that can cause a whole differnt bunch of problems. Remember the fish are probably all right just over crowded. cheers, tonyf
I bought a home three months ago which has a koi pond. It’s filled with koi, goldfish and many, many plants. If it weren’t for the green water it would be beautiful. I began runnng the biofilter two months ago but the water is still green. I’m wondering if I can do a complete water change to correct the problem or maybe add a UV sterilizer or clarifier. I’m new to watergardening and so far the only info I’ve read is online. Can anyone advise me as to what I should do? Sylvia
Adding the proper size UV light will take care of your green water in under a week. Your water will look beautiful.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I bought a home three months ago which has a koi pond. It’s filled with > koi, goldfish and many, many plants. If it weren’t for the green water > it would be beautiful. I began runnng the biofilter two months ago but > the water is still green. I’m wondering if I can do a complete water > change to correct the problem or maybe add a UV sterilizer or clarifier. > I’m new to watergardening and so far the only info I’ve read is online. > Can anyone advise me as to what I should do? Sylvia
Green water solutions ~ learning as much as you can about the natural balance of a pond and realizing that new ponds must go through a growth period which usually means green water before balance occurs. ~ Mother Nature designs pond to have few fish, many plants and subtraction and addition of new water from time to time. She lets the fish find food on their own, lets the fish fertilize the plants, encourages predators and lets the plants run rampant. She never cleans her ponds out unless she sends a flood. If things really get out of control she throws up her hands and lets the chips fall where they may – lets the pond fill in, turn emerald green, flood it out, earthquakes, hurricanes, record snowfall, elections too close to call – whatever… ~We pondkeepers stuff in lots of pretty fish, spoil them rotten with tasty fish chow, over fertilize our plants and do everything possible to discourage predators. ~Plan on 20 gallons of water per goldfish and 100 gallons of water per koi and as many plants as you can stuff in. ~ do not use chemicals, killing algae just makes lots of suddenly dead algae, rotting algae robs the pond of oxygen and makes more stuff for the new algae to feed on (unless you have a bottom drain to get it out). ~lower fish stocking, not over feeding fish – algae loves fish waste (lots of yummy phosphorous) ~ lots plants of any type, marginal plants such as reeds, cattails, iris, pickerel weed, arrowhead, floaters such as water hyacinth, water lettuce and lots of underwater plants such as anacharis uses the nutrients up that the algae would like. ~ shade (lilies, the floaters and artificial shade – shade cloth, umbrella, arch or trellis planted with vines) no sun for the algae ~ cleaning up debris from the bottom of the pond and stocking snails to chew up the debris – less decaying stuff for algae food. ~ cut back or stop fertilizing plants – same principle. ~ planting in _well_ rinsed plain kitty litter, sand or fine gravel. ~ mechanical filtration of the fish waste. ~ biological filtration – more than you think you need as your fish are going to grow and you will probably add more fish to your pond via purchase or your fish breeding in the pond. ~ veggie filter – an area, 10% to 20%, of the size of your pond surface area. A couple of inches deeper than the plant baskets (the rigid black mesh baskets made specifically for water plants) you are going to use to plant in. Plant the baskets with marginal plants with fine gravel. Pump the pond water through at a turnover rate per hour 1/2 to 1/4 of the pond volume. Veggie filter uses up many of the nutrients and provides a good place for bacteria to grow. Build it with a bottom drain (or two) for ease of cleaning – very important or you’ll end up with backups and leaking over the edge. Go here to read a great description about how to build one http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/garden.html ~ a sludge eating product – concentrated bacteria culture. ~ some folks love their UV sterilizer. Does cost some $. ~ adding a bale of barley straw to your pond. Read this webpage http://hometown.aol.com/rosiedawg/myhomepage/collection.html – Phosphate Remover – It comes in a large clear container (maybe about gallon sized) but it’s also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It’s usually near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such as ammonia remover and such. You measure out the amount suitable for your pond size, place it in a mesh bag, and first soak it in a pail before you put it in your filter. You need to soak it because it gives off heat when it first gets wet. ~ do not worry about green fuzzy algae on the side of the pond, that is good algae and helps balance your pond. ~ ignoring a little string algae. ~ installing bottom drains and skimmers for ease of removing sludge and debris. ~ netting the pond during the Fall to keep leaves out of the pond. ~ trimming dead growth from the plants and removing floating tropicals if you live in colder climates. ~ Sacrifices to the Pond Goddess. Run to your nearest garden center and buy a gazing ball, a dragonfly garden stake and bullfrog spitter. Place around your pond and ask humbly for clear water. ~ patience, patience and eternal optimism. kathy-and-the-watergardening-labradors
>- Phosphate Remover – It comes in a large clear container (maybe about >gallon >sized) but it’s also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It’s usually >near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such as >ammonia remover and such.
This is probably alum, aluminum sulfate. It won’t work for Sylvia, because her water has high alkalinity. (Alum can bind phosphate, but it’s effective only if the KH and pH are low. At normal pond pH and KH, it just forms aluminum hydroxide. So "phosphate remover" is generally ineffective in ponds.) In soft water, alum can be an effective coagulant to clear muddy water. – Rod
Thank you all for the varied and helpful info. I decided after doing some research that I’d go ahead and get a UV sterilizer. I have tried to do a head count and it appears there are 6 or so koi and about 20 goldfish of varying sizes. Of course, I’m not counting the fry. Too many of them to keep track of. I do wonder about phosphate now that I’ll be using a UV to rid the water of floating algae. Do I need to use a product which removes phosphate? Certainly don’t want my fish friends to die. I tested the water yesterday and all seems fine. I was suprised to find it in such good condition. Thanks again for your help. Sylvia
Sylvia << Do I need to use a product which removes phosphate? >> That is on my green water list but I have to say I have not used it. Just like UV is on the list but also don’t use it. Usually green water is kept at bay with a number of different methods. If you can afford UV I say go for it! Take no quarters when it comes to green water Good luck and let us know what happens. k30a-and-the-watergardening-labradors
>I do wonder about phosphate now that I’ll be using a UV to rid the water >of floating algae. Do I need to use a product which removes phosphate? >Certainly don’t want my fish friends to die. >I tested the water yesterday and all seems fine. I was suprised to find >it in such good condition. >Thanks again for your help. >Sylvia
I got a UV. Never added anything to the pond and its crystal now. Took about 3 days after the UV installed. Whats phosphate for ? Steve
Hi Steve, Wow! No green water in only 3 days! Thought I was excited about my upcoming UV arrival but now I’m feeling like a kid at Christmas. I beileve phosphates are a byproduct of fish poo. They feed the algae.
The phosphate in question comes from this suggestion that I added to the green water solutions. >- Phosphate Remover – It comes in a large clear container (maybe about gallon
sized) but it’s also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It’s usually near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such as ammonia remover and such. You measure out the amount suitable for your pond size, place it in a mesh bag, and first soak it in a pail before you put it in your filter. You need to soak it because it gives off heat when it first gets wet.<< I have added hints over the years and this is one of them. My clear water comes from anacharis and a veggie filter full of water hyacinths (14" tall and dark green!) — but I list all suggestions, even ones I don’t use, like UV or phosphate remover – as every pond and ponder is different and what works for me might not work for others. A toast to gin clear water! k30a-and-the-watergardening-labradors <A HREF="http://www.daydreamergardens.com/2_level/articles/dog_how_to.htm">See the watergardening labradors </A>
I didnt have green water until I cleaned out the big pond and my mothers and moved the 13 fish to my pond and that doubled the number of koi, then it went murky and I had the UV sitting upstairs somebody gave it to me. 3 days after hooking it up the water was clear. INgrid >Hi Steve, > Wow! No green water in only 3 days! Thought I was excited about my >upcoming UV arrival but now I’m feeling like a kid at Christmas. > I beileve phosphates are a byproduct of fish poo. They feed the >algae.
List manager- Puregold http://puregold.aquaria.net/ http://users.megapathdsl.net/~solo/solo/index.html Solve the problem, dont waste energy looking for who’s to blame Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the work, endorsements and recommendations I make. And my husband has the bills to prove it!
Hi Sylvia You should still make Water changes on a regular basis. Ten percent a month and syphon from the bottom. If you don,t have a bottom drain. With a lot of plants you should not have green water. This could be caused by a Bacterial Bloom from the bottom of the Pond. Water quality is primo in keeping fish healthy. Filters are great but good pond maintenance is still a Must. People get lulled into a comfort zone with good Filters and UV’s and still have fish get sick or die. Ya gotta make changes Know Matter what test kits say. Put your nozzle on spray when filling. Good Luck with your new Home!! ALDI.
>I bought a home three months ago which has a koi pond. It’s filled with >koi, goldfish and many, many plants. If it weren’t for the green water >it would be beautiful. I began runnng the biofilter two months ago but >the water is still green. I’m wondering if I can do a complete water
Biofilter is to convert fish waste to plant food, not remove algae Go to http://www.koivet.com and read… LOTS of information >change to correct the problem or maybe add a UV sterilizer or clarifier.
Water change is not a long term solution (algae will only grow again) and has it’s own set of problems (chemicals added to city water) >I’m new to watergardening and so far the only info I’ve read is online. >Can anyone advise me as to what I should do? Sylvia
UV light, of a size that is correct for your gallons, will kill algae (do note that bulbs must be replaced annually) John Thomas Smith Personal Page and CatBox FAQ http://www.pacifier.com/~jtsmith Direct 2 U Pond Emporium Compare Our Pond Prices !!! Pumps/Filters/Liner/Accessories http://www.pacifier.com/~tkaufman
>Adding the proper size UV light will take care of your green water in under >a week. Your water will look beautiful. > I bought a home three months ago which has a koi pond. It’s filled with > koi, goldfish and many, many plants. If it weren’t for the green water > it would be beautiful. I began runnng the biofilter two months ago but > the water is still green. I’m wondering if I can do a complete water > change to correct the problem or maybe add a UV sterilizer or clarifier. > I’m new to watergardening and so far the only info I’ve read is online. > Can anyone advise me as to what I should do? Sylvia
Hello Sylvia. While a UV sterilizer will clean the water up there are cheaper ways to keep the pond clean. Plants will do a wonderful job of keeping the water clear. If your pond is over crowded you need to get rid of some of the fish. An overcrowded pond will be a headache no matter what type of filter you put on it. Try to find a pond club or association in your area. Talk to successful ponders and I am sure they will steer you in the right direction. You don’t state what size of pond you have, how many fish, and what size and type of filter you have. To try and diagnose your porblem in this group will take more information. Maybe a UV sterilizer is the answer. Maybe all it will do is successfuly run your light bill up. Try to visit other ponders in your area. They might try to push extra plants or fish off on you, but they will be helpful with your pond. A pond store will try to sell everything you need to be a successful ponder. BEWARE! They will have you to believe all of that equipment is necessary, it isn’t. There are a whole lot of people who have great looking ponds and they don’t have expensive UV filters and such. The fish won’t die because of the ponds present condition. Go to the library and see what info you can find there. (oops I am letting my age out) Look on the internet and see what you can find about ponds. There is a site that has useful information on it and isn’t strictly there to sell you stuff. www.coloradokoi.com There is also a news letter that comes on my e-mail with good information not infomercials. I will try forward the next one to you. Take the time to learn about your pond this winter and next year you will be ready to start out right from the beginning of the season. Take care not to replace to much water as that can cause a whole differnt bunch of problems. Remember the fish are probably all right just over crowded. cheers, tonyf
I bought a home three months ago which has a koi pond. It’s filled with koi, goldfish and many, many plants. If it weren’t for the green water it would be beautiful. I began runnng the biofilter two months ago but the water is still green. I’m wondering if I can do a complete water change to correct the problem or maybe add a UV sterilizer or clarifier. I’m new to watergardening and so far the only info I’ve read is online. Can anyone advise me as to what I should do? Sylvia
Adding the proper size UV light will take care of your green water in under a week. Your water will look beautiful.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I bought a home three months ago which has a koi pond. It’s filled with > koi, goldfish and many, many plants. If it weren’t for the green water > it would be beautiful. I began runnng the biofilter two months ago but > the water is still green. I’m wondering if I can do a complete water > change to correct the problem or maybe add a UV sterilizer or clarifier. > I’m new to watergardening and so far the only info I’ve read is online. > Can anyone advise me as to what I should do? Sylvia
Green water solutions ~ learning as much as you can about the natural balance of a pond and realizing that new ponds must go through a growth period which usually means green water before balance occurs. ~ Mother Nature designs pond to have few fish, many plants and subtraction and addition of new water from time to time. She lets the fish find food on their own, lets the fish fertilize the plants, encourages predators and lets the plants run rampant. She never cleans her ponds out unless she sends a flood. If things really get out of control she throws up her hands and lets the chips fall where they may – lets the pond fill in, turn emerald green, flood it out, earthquakes, hurricanes, record snowfall, elections too close to call – whatever… ~We pondkeepers stuff in lots of pretty fish, spoil them rotten with tasty fish chow, over fertilize our plants and do everything possible to discourage predators. ~Plan on 20 gallons of water per goldfish and 100 gallons of water per koi and as many plants as you can stuff in. ~ do not use chemicals, killing algae just makes lots of suddenly dead algae, rotting algae robs the pond of oxygen and makes more stuff for the new algae to feed on (unless you have a bottom drain to get it out). ~lower fish stocking, not over feeding fish – algae loves fish waste (lots of yummy phosphorous) ~ lots plants of any type, marginal plants such as reeds, cattails, iris, pickerel weed, arrowhead, floaters such as water hyacinth, water lettuce and lots of underwater plants such as anacharis uses the nutrients up that the algae would like. ~ shade (lilies, the floaters and artificial shade – shade cloth, umbrella, arch or trellis planted with vines) no sun for the algae ~ cleaning up debris from the bottom of the pond and stocking snails to chew up the debris – less decaying stuff for algae food. ~ cut back or stop fertilizing plants – same principle. ~ planting in _well_ rinsed plain kitty litter, sand or fine gravel. ~ mechanical filtration of the fish waste. ~ biological filtration – more than you think you need as your fish are going to grow and you will probably add more fish to your pond via purchase or your fish breeding in the pond. ~ veggie filter – an area, 10% to 20%, of the size of your pond surface area. A couple of inches deeper than the plant baskets (the rigid black mesh baskets made specifically for water plants) you are going to use to plant in. Plant the baskets with marginal plants with fine gravel. Pump the pond water through at a turnover rate per hour 1/2 to 1/4 of the pond volume. Veggie filter uses up many of the nutrients and provides a good place for bacteria to grow. Build it with a bottom drain (or two) for ease of cleaning – very important or you’ll end up with backups and leaking over the edge. Go here to read a great description about how to build one http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/garden.html ~ a sludge eating product – concentrated bacteria culture. ~ some folks love their UV sterilizer. Does cost some $. ~ adding a bale of barley straw to your pond. Read this webpage http://hometown.aol.com/rosiedawg/myhomepage/collection.html – Phosphate Remover – It comes in a large clear container (maybe about gallon sized) but it’s also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It’s usually near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such as ammonia remover and such. You measure out the amount suitable for your pond size, place it in a mesh bag, and first soak it in a pail before you put it in your filter. You need to soak it because it gives off heat when it first gets wet. ~ do not worry about green fuzzy algae on the side of the pond, that is good algae and helps balance your pond. ~ ignoring a little string algae. ~ installing bottom drains and skimmers for ease of removing sludge and debris. ~ netting the pond during the Fall to keep leaves out of the pond. ~ trimming dead growth from the plants and removing floating tropicals if you live in colder climates. ~ Sacrifices to the Pond Goddess. Run to your nearest garden center and buy a gazing ball, a dragonfly garden stake and bullfrog spitter. Place around your pond and ask humbly for clear water. ~ patience, patience and eternal optimism. kathy-and-the-watergardening-labradors
Does anyone have ideas on the best algae control? My newly installed pond is starting to grow along the walls and other surfaces of the pond. The water is clear, but the surfaces are getting a little green/brown. I’d rather stay away from chemicals et al. Do algae eatter work well in ponds? I was thinking the kind you find at a normal pet store. I used to have one in my aquarium (when I had it set up) and it grew with all the algae it ate. I’ll search the web and see what I can find, but I tought I’d ask the experts first. Thanks, Kris Kauker
Stuff along the wall and pots, etc. is good algae and will help keep the green water at bay. Here is the algae tips suggestions to help – Green water solutions ~ learning as much as you can about the natural balance of a pond and realizing that new ponds must go through a growth period which usually means green water before balance occurs. ~ Mother Nature designs pond to have few fish, many plants and subtraction and addition of new water from time to time. She lets the fish find food on their own, lets the fish fertilize the plants, encourages predators and lets the plants run rampant. She never cleans her ponds out unless she sends a flood. If things really get out of control she throws up her hands and lets the chips fall where they may – lets the pond fill in, turn emerald green, flood it out, earthquakes, hurricanes, record snowfall, elections too close to call – whatever… ~We pondkeepers stuff in lots of pretty fish, spoil them rotten with tasty fish chow, over fertilize our plants and do everything possible to discourage predators. ~Plan on 20 gallons of water per goldfish and 100 gallons of water per koi and as many plants as you can stuff in. ~ do not use chemicals, killing algae just makes lots of suddenly dead algae, rotting algae robs the pond of oxygen and makes more stuff for the new algae to feed on (unless you have a bottom drain to get it out). ~lower fish stocking, not over feeding fish – algae loves fish waste (lots of yummy phosphorous) ~ lots plants of any type, marginal plants such as reeds, cattails, iris, pickerel weed, arrowhead, floaters such as water hyacinth, water lettuce and lots of underwater plants such as anacharis uses the nutrients up that the algae would like. ~ shade (lilies, the floaters and artificial shade – shade cloth, umbrella, arch or trellis planted with vines) no sun for the algae ~ cleaning up debris from the bottom of the pond and stocking snails to chew up the debris – less decaying stuff for algae food. ~ cut back or stop fertilizing plants – same principle. ~ planting in _well_ rinsed plain kitty litter, sand or fine gravel. ~ mechanical filtration of the fish waste. ~ biological filtration – more than you think you need as your fish are going to grow and you will probably add more fish to your pond via purchase or your fish breeding in the pond. ~ veggie filter – an area, 10% to 20%, of the size of your pond surface area. A couple of inches deeper than the plant baskets (the rigid black mesh baskets made specifically for water plants) you are going to use to plant in. Plant the baskets with marginal plants with fine gravel. Pump the pond water through at a turnover rate per hour 1/2 to 1/4 of the pond volume. Veggie filter uses up many of the nutrients and provides a good place for bacteria to grow. Build it with a bottom drain (or two) for ease of cleaning – very important or you’ll end up with backups and leaking over the edge. Go here to read a great description about how to build one http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/garden.html ~ a sludge eating product – concentrated bacteria culture. ~ some folks love their UV sterilizer. Does cost some $. ~ adding a bale of barley straw to your pond. Read this webpage http://hometown.aol.com/rosiedawg/myhomepage/collection.html – Phosphate Remover – It comes in a large clear container (maybe about gallon sized) but it’s also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It’s usually near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such as ammonia remover and such. You measure out the amount suitable for your pond size, place it in a mesh bag, and first soak it in a pail before you put it in your filter. You need to soak it because it gives off heat when it first gets wet. ~ do not worry about green fuzzy algae on the side of the pond, that is good algae and helps balance your pond. ~ ignoring a little string algae. ~ installing bottom drains and skimmers for ease of removing sludge and debris. ~ netting the pond during the Fall to keep leaves out of the pond. ~ trimming dead growth from the plants and removing floating tropicals if you live in colder climates. ~ Sacrifices to the Pond Goddess. Run to your nearest garden center and buy a gazing ball, a dragonfly garden stake and bullfrog spitter. Place around your pond and ask humbly for clear water. ~ patience, patience and eternal optimism. kathy-and-the-watergardening-labradors
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Stuff along the wall and pots, etc. is good algae and will help keep the green > water at bay. Here is the algae tips suggestions to help – > Green water solutions > ~ learning as much as you can about the natural balance of a pond and realizing > that new ponds must go through > a growth period which usually means green water before balance occurs. > ~ Mother Nature designs pond to have few fish, many plants and subtraction and > addition of new water from time to time. > She lets the fish find food on their own, lets the fish fertilize the plants, > encourages predators and lets the plants run rampant. > She never cleans her ponds out unless she sends a flood. If things really get > out of control she throws up her hands and lets the chips fall where they may – > lets the pond fill in, turn emerald green, flood it out, earthquakes, > hurricanes, record snowfall, elections too close to call – whatever… > ~We pondkeepers stuff in lots of pretty fish, spoil them rotten with tasty fish > chow, over fertilize our plants and do everything possible to discourage > predators. > ~Plan on 20 gallons of water per goldfish and 100 gallons of water per koi and > as many plants as you can stuff in. > ~ do not use chemicals, killing algae just makes lots of suddenly dead algae, > rotting algae robs the pond of oxygen and makes more stuff for the new algae to > feed on (unless you have a bottom drain to get it out). > ~lower fish stocking, not over feeding fish – algae loves fish waste (lots of > yummy phosphorous) > ~ lots plants of any type, marginal plants such as reeds, cattails, iris, > pickerel weed, arrowhead, floaters such as water hyacinth, water lettuce and > lots of underwater plants such as anacharis uses the nutrients up that the > algae would like. > ~ shade (lilies, the floaters and artificial shade – shade cloth, umbrella, > arch or trellis planted with vines) no sun for the algae > ~ cleaning up debris from the bottom of the pond and > stocking snails to chew up the debris – less decaying stuff for algae food. > ~ cut back or stop fertilizing plants – same principle. > ~ planting in _well_ rinsed plain kitty litter, sand or fine gravel. > ~ mechanical filtration of the fish waste. > ~ biological filtration – more than you think you need as your fish are going > to grow and you will probably add more fish to your pond via purchase or your > fish breeding in the pond. > ~ veggie filter – an area, 10% to 20%, of the size of your pond surface area. A > couple of inches deeper than the plant baskets (the rigid black mesh baskets > made specifically for water plants) you are going to use to plant in. Plant the > baskets with marginal plants with fine gravel. Pump the pond water through at > a turnover rate per hour 1/2 to 1/4 of the pond volume. Veggie filter uses up > many of the nutrients and provides a good place for bacteria to grow. Build it > with a bottom drain (or two) for ease of cleaning – very important or you’ll > end up with backups and leaking over the edge. Go here to read a great > description about how to build one > http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/garden.html > ~ a sludge eating product – concentrated bacteria culture. > ~ some folks love their UV sterilizer. Does cost some $. > ~ adding a bale of barley straw to your pond. Read this webpage > http://hometown.aol.com/rosiedawg/myhomepage/collection.html > – Phosphate Remover – It comes in a large clear container (maybe about gallon > sized) but it’s also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It’s usually > near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such as > ammonia remover and such. > You measure out the amount suitable for your pond size, place it in a mesh > bag, and first soak it in a pail before you put it in your filter. You need to > soak it because it gives off heat when it first gets wet. > ~ do not worry about green fuzzy algae on the side of the pond, that is good > algae and helps balance your pond. > ~ ignoring a little string algae. > ~ installing bottom drains and skimmers for ease of removing sludge and debris. > ~ netting the pond during the Fall to keep leaves out of the pond. > ~ trimming dead growth from the plants and removing floating tropicals if you > live in colder climates. > ~ Sacrifices to the Pond Goddess. > Run to your nearest garden center and buy a gazing ball, > a dragonfly garden stake and bullfrog spitter. > Place around your pond and ask humbly for clear water. > ~ patience, patience and eternal optimism. > kathy-and-the-watergardening-labradors
Does anyone have ideas on the best algae control? My newly installed pond is starting to grow along the walls and other surfaces of the pond. The water is clear, but the surfaces are getting a little green/brown. I’d rather stay away from chemicals et al. Do algae eatter work well in ponds? I was thinking the kind you find at a normal pet store. I used to have one in my aquarium (when I had it set up) and it grew with all the algae it ate. I’ll search the web and see what I can find, but I tought I’d ask the experts first. Thanks, Kris Kauker
Stuff along the wall and pots, etc. is good algae and will help keep the green water at bay. Here is the algae tips suggestions to help – Green water solutions ~ learning as much as you can about the natural balance of a pond and realizing that new ponds must go through a growth period which usually means green water before balance occurs. ~ Mother Nature designs pond to have few fish, many plants and subtraction and addition of new water from time to time. She lets the fish find food on their own, lets the fish fertilize the plants, encourages predators and lets the plants run rampant. She never cleans her ponds out unless she sends a flood. If things really get out of control she throws up her hands and lets the chips fall where they may – lets the pond fill in, turn emerald green, flood it out, earthquakes, hurricanes, record snowfall, elections too close to call – whatever… ~We pondkeepers stuff in lots of pretty fish, spoil them rotten with tasty fish chow, over fertilize our plants and do everything possible to discourage predators. ~Plan on 20 gallons of water per goldfish and 100 gallons of water per koi and as many plants as you can stuff in. ~ do not use chemicals, killing algae just makes lots of suddenly dead algae, rotting algae robs the pond of oxygen and makes more stuff for the new algae to feed on (unless you have a bottom drain to get it out). ~lower fish stocking, not over feeding fish – algae loves fish waste (lots of yummy phosphorous) ~ lots plants of any type, marginal plants such as reeds, cattails, iris, pickerel weed, arrowhead, floaters such as water hyacinth, water lettuce and lots of underwater plants such as anacharis uses the nutrients up that the algae would like. ~ shade (lilies, the floaters and artificial shade – shade cloth, umbrella, arch or trellis planted with vines) no sun for the algae ~ cleaning up debris from the bottom of the pond and stocking snails to chew up the debris – less decaying stuff for algae food. ~ cut back or stop fertilizing plants – same principle. ~ planting in _well_ rinsed plain kitty litter, sand or fine gravel. ~ mechanical filtration of the fish waste. ~ biological filtration – more than you think you need as your fish are going to grow and you will probably add more fish to your pond via purchase or your fish breeding in the pond. ~ veggie filter – an area, 10% to 20%, of the size of your pond surface area. A couple of inches deeper than the plant baskets (the rigid black mesh baskets made specifically for water plants) you are going to use to plant in. Plant the baskets with marginal plants with fine gravel. Pump the pond water through at a turnover rate per hour 1/2 to 1/4 of the pond volume. Veggie filter uses up many of the nutrients and provides a good place for bacteria to grow. Build it with a bottom drain (or two) for ease of cleaning – very important or you’ll end up with backups and leaking over the edge. Go here to read a great description about how to build one http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/garden.html ~ a sludge eating product – concentrated bacteria culture. ~ some folks love their UV sterilizer. Does cost some $. ~ adding a bale of barley straw to your pond. Read this webpage http://hometown.aol.com/rosiedawg/myhomepage/collection.html – Phosphate Remover – It comes in a large clear container (maybe about gallon sized) but it’s also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It’s usually near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such as ammonia remover and such. You measure out the amount suitable for your pond size, place it in a mesh bag, and first soak it in a pail before you put it in your filter. You need to soak it because it gives off heat when it first gets wet. ~ do not worry about green fuzzy algae on the side of the pond, that is good algae and helps balance your pond. ~ ignoring a little string algae. ~ installing bottom drains and skimmers for ease of removing sludge and debris. ~ netting the pond during the Fall to keep leaves out of the pond. ~ trimming dead growth from the plants and removing floating tropicals if you live in colder climates. ~ Sacrifices to the Pond Goddess. Run to your nearest garden center and buy a gazing ball, a dragonfly garden stake and bullfrog spitter. Place around your pond and ask humbly for clear water. ~ patience, patience and eternal optimism. kathy-and-the-watergardening-labradors
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Stuff along the wall and pots, etc. is good algae and will help keep the green > water at bay. Here is the algae tips suggestions to help – > Green water solutions > ~ learning as much as you can about the natural balance of a pond and realizing > that new ponds must go through > a growth period which usually means green water before balance occurs. > ~ Mother Nature designs pond to have few fish, many plants and subtraction and > addition of new water from time to time. > She lets the fish find food on their own, lets the fish fertilize the plants, > encourages predators and lets the plants run rampant. > She never cleans her ponds out unless she sends a flood. If things really get > out of control she throws up her hands and lets the chips fall where they may – > lets the pond fill in, turn emerald green, flood it out, earthquakes, > hurricanes, record snowfall, elections too close to call – whatever… > ~We pondkeepers stuff in lots of pretty fish, spoil them rotten with tasty fish > chow, over fertilize our plants and do everything possible to discourage > predators. > ~Plan on 20 gallons of water per goldfish and 100 gallons of water per koi and > as many plants as you can stuff in. > ~ do not use chemicals, killing algae just makes lots of suddenly dead algae, > rotting algae robs the pond of oxygen and makes more stuff for the new algae to > feed on (unless you have a bottom drain to get it out). > ~lower fish stocking, not over feeding fish – algae loves fish waste (lots of > yummy phosphorous) > ~ lots plants of any type, marginal plants such as reeds, cattails, iris, > pickerel weed, arrowhead, floaters such as water hyacinth, water lettuce and > lots of underwater plants such as anacharis uses the nutrients up that the > algae would like. > ~ shade (lilies, the floaters and artificial shade – shade cloth, umbrella, > arch or trellis planted with vines) no sun for the algae > ~ cleaning up debris from the bottom of the pond and > stocking snails to chew up the debris – less decaying stuff for algae food. > ~ cut back or stop fertilizing plants – same principle. > ~ planting in _well_ rinsed plain kitty litter, sand or fine gravel. > ~ mechanical filtration of the fish waste. > ~ biological filtration – more than you think you need as your fish are going > to grow and you will probably add more fish to your pond via purchase or your > fish breeding in the pond. > ~ veggie filter – an area, 10% to 20%, of the size of your pond surface area. A > couple of inches deeper than the plant baskets (the rigid black mesh baskets > made specifically for water plants) you are going to use to plant in. Plant the > baskets with marginal plants with fine gravel. Pump the pond water through at > a turnover rate per hour 1/2 to 1/4 of the pond volume. Veggie filter uses up > many of the nutrients and provides a good place for bacteria to grow. Build it > with a bottom drain (or two) for ease of cleaning – very important or you’ll > end up with backups and leaking over the edge. Go here to read a great > description about how to build one > http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/garden.html > ~ a sludge eating product – concentrated bacteria culture. > ~ some folks love their UV sterilizer. Does cost some $. > ~ adding a bale of barley straw to your pond. Read this webpage > http://hometown.aol.com/rosiedawg/myhomepage/collection.html > – Phosphate Remover – It comes in a large clear container (maybe about gallon > sized) but it’s also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It’s usually > near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such as > ammonia remover and such. > You measure out the amount suitable for your pond size, place it in a mesh > bag, and first soak it in a pail before you put it in your filter. You need to > soak it because it gives off heat when it first gets wet. > ~ do not worry about green fuzzy algae on the side of the pond, that is good > algae and helps balance your pond. > ~ ignoring a little string algae. > ~ installing bottom drains and skimmers for ease of removing sludge and debris. > ~ netting the pond during the Fall to keep leaves out of the pond. > ~ trimming dead growth from the plants and removing floating tropicals if you > live in colder climates. > ~ Sacrifices to the Pond Goddess. > Run to your nearest garden center and buy a gazing ball, > a dragonfly garden stake and bullfrog spitter. > Place around your pond and ask humbly for clear water. > ~ patience, patience and eternal optimism. > kathy-and-the-watergardening-labradors
Hi all, I’ve had my pond up and running for about 3-4 months with much success and enjoyment. First frogs, now a bunch of tadpoles, A few feeder goldfish and now babies, dragonflies , beetles and all the other bugs that go with the pond. I’ve had clear water up till now.For the past week it has slowly gotten murky and getting worse. I can still see bottom but not for long if this keep going on. Question? Is this an algae bloom or some other problem ,maybe with the bio filter and bacteria or something else . how long do algae blooms last and is there anything to do to shorten it . any help would be appreciated. Thanks : )
Time to post the green water tips! (You don’t have to do them all Green water solutions ~ learning as much as you can about the natural balance of a pond and realizing that new ponds must go through a growth period which usually means green water before balance occurs. ~ Mother Nature designs pond to have few fish, many plants and subtraction and addition of new water from time to time. She lets the fish find food on their own, lets the fish fertilize the plants, encourages predators and lets the plants run rampant. She never cleans her ponds out unless she sends a flood. If things really get out of control she throws up her hands and lets the chips fall where they may – lets the pond fill in, turn emerald green, flood it out, earthquakes, hurricanes, record snowfall, elections too close to call – whatever… ~We pondkeepers stuff in lots of pretty fish, spoil them rotten with tasty fish chow, over fertilize our plants and do everything possible to discourage predators. ~Plan on 20 gallons of water per goldfish and 100 gallons of water per koi and as many plants as you can stuff in. ~ do not use chemicals, killing algae just makes lots of suddenly dead algae, rotting algae robs the pond of oxygen and makes more stuff for the new algae to feed on (unless you have a bottom drain to get it out). ~lower fish stocking, not over feeding fish – algae loves fish waste (lots of yummy phosphorous) ~ lots plants of any type, marginal plants such as reeds, cattails, iris, pickerel weed, arrowhead, floaters such as water hyacinth, water lettuce and lots of underwater plants such as anacharis uses the nutrients up that the algae would like. ~ shade (lilies, the floaters and artificial shade – shade cloth, umbrella, arch or trellis planted with vines) no sun for the algae ~ cleaning up debris from the bottom of the pond and stocking snails to chew up the debris – less decaying stuff for algae food. ~ cut back or stop fertilizing plants – same principle. ~ planting in _well_ rinsed plain kitty litter, sand or fine gravel. ~ mechanical filtration of the fish waste. ~ biological filtration – more than you think you need as your fish are going to grow and you will probably add more fish to your pond via purchase or your fish breeding in the pond. ~ veggie filter – an area, 10% to 20%, of the size of your pond surface area. A couple of inches deeper than the plant baskets (the rigid black mesh baskets made specifically for water plants) you are going to use to plant in. Plant the baskets with marginal plants with fine gravel. Pump the pond water through at a turnover rate per hour 1/2 to 1/4 of the pond volume. Veggie filter uses up many of the nutrients and provides a good place for bacteria to grow. Build it with a bottom drain (or two) for ease of cleaning – very important or you’ll end up with backups and leaking over the edge. Go here to read a great description about how to build one http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/garden.html ~ a sludge eating product – concentrated bacteria culture. ~ some folks love their UV sterilizer. Does cost some $. ~ adding a bale of barley straw to your pond. Read this webpage http://hometown.aol.com/rosiedawg/myhomepage/collection.html – Phosphate Remover – It comes in a large clear container (maybe about gallon sized) but it’s also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It’s usually near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such as ammonia remover and such. You measure out the amount suitable for your pond size, place it in a mesh bag, and first soak it in a pail before you put it in your filter. You need to soak it because it gives off heat when it first gets wet. ~ do not worry about green fuzzy algae on the side of the pond, that is good algae and helps balance your pond. ~ ignoring a little string algae. ~ installing bottom drains and skimmers for ease of removing sludge and debris. ~ netting the pond during the Fall to keep leaves out of the pond. ~ trimming dead growth from the plants and removing floating tropicals if you live in colder climates. ~ Sacrifices to the Pond Goddess. Run to your nearest garden center and buy a gazing ball, a dragonfly garden stake and bullfrog spitter. Place around your pond and ask humbly for clear water. ~ patience, patience and eternal optimism. K30A pond tips http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/writing.html
I had the same thing, and installed a UV (25W for 2000Gal) Clear water 4 days later – fantastic!
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > I’ve had my pond up and running for about 3-4 months with much success > and enjoyment. First frogs, now a bunch of tadpoles, A few feeder > goldfish and now > babies, dragonflies , beetles and all the other bugs that go with the > pond. > I’ve had clear water up till now.For the past week it has slowly gotten > murky and getting worse. I can still see bottom but not for long if this > keep going on. > Question? Is this an algae bloom or some other problem ,maybe with the > bio filter > and bacteria or something else . > how long do algae blooms last and is there anything to do to shorten it > . > any help would be appreciated. > Thanks : )
Hi all, I’ve had my pond up and running for about 3-4 months with much success and enjoyment. First frogs, now a bunch of tadpoles, A few feeder goldfish and now babies, dragonflies , beetles and all the other bugs that go with the pond. I’ve had clear water up till now.For the past week it has slowly gotten murky and getting worse. I can still see bottom but not for long if this keep going on. Question? Is this an algae bloom or some other problem ,maybe with the bio filter and bacteria or something else . how long do algae blooms last and is there anything to do to shorten it . any help would be appreciated. Thanks : )
Time to post the green water tips! (You don’t have to do them all Green water solutions ~ learning as much as you can about the natural balance of a pond and realizing that new ponds must go through a growth period which usually means green water before balance occurs. ~ Mother Nature designs pond to have few fish, many plants and subtraction and addition of new water from time to time. She lets the fish find food on their own, lets the fish fertilize the plants, encourages predators and lets the plants run rampant. She never cleans her ponds out unless she sends a flood. If things really get out of control she throws up her hands and lets the chips fall where they may – lets the pond fill in, turn emerald green, flood it out, earthquakes, hurricanes, record snowfall, elections too close to call – whatever… ~We pondkeepers stuff in lots of pretty fish, spoil them rotten with tasty fish chow, over fertilize our plants and do everything possible to discourage predators. ~Plan on 20 gallons of water per goldfish and 100 gallons of water per koi and as many plants as you can stuff in. ~ do not use chemicals, killing algae just makes lots of suddenly dead algae, rotting algae robs the pond of oxygen and makes more stuff for the new algae to feed on (unless you have a bottom drain to get it out). ~lower fish stocking, not over feeding fish – algae loves fish waste (lots of yummy phosphorous) ~ lots plants of any type, marginal plants such as reeds, cattails, iris, pickerel weed, arrowhead, floaters such as water hyacinth, water lettuce and lots of underwater plants such as anacharis uses the nutrients up that the algae would like. ~ shade (lilies, the floaters and artificial shade – shade cloth, umbrella, arch or trellis planted with vines) no sun for the algae ~ cleaning up debris from the bottom of the pond and stocking snails to chew up the debris – less decaying stuff for algae food. ~ cut back or stop fertilizing plants – same principle. ~ planting in _well_ rinsed plain kitty litter, sand or fine gravel. ~ mechanical filtration of the fish waste. ~ biological filtration – more than you think you need as your fish are going to grow and you will probably add more fish to your pond via purchase or your fish breeding in the pond. ~ veggie filter – an area, 10% to 20%, of the size of your pond surface area. A couple of inches deeper than the plant baskets (the rigid black mesh baskets made specifically for water plants) you are going to use to plant in. Plant the baskets with marginal plants with fine gravel. Pump the pond water through at a turnover rate per hour 1/2 to 1/4 of the pond volume. Veggie filter uses up many of the nutrients and provides a good place for bacteria to grow. Build it with a bottom drain (or two) for ease of cleaning – very important or you’ll end up with backups and leaking over the edge. Go here to read a great description about how to build one http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/garden.html ~ a sludge eating product – concentrated bacteria culture. ~ some folks love their UV sterilizer. Does cost some $. ~ adding a bale of barley straw to your pond. Read this webpage http://hometown.aol.com/rosiedawg/myhomepage/collection.html – Phosphate Remover – It comes in a large clear container (maybe about gallon sized) but it’s also available in a smaller quart sized carton. It’s usually near the aquatic plant fertilizers and different chemicals available such as ammonia remover and such. You measure out the amount suitable for your pond size, place it in a mesh bag, and first soak it in a pail before you put it in your filter. You need to soak it because it gives off heat when it first gets wet. ~ do not worry about green fuzzy algae on the side of the pond, that is good algae and helps balance your pond. ~ ignoring a little string algae. ~ installing bottom drains and skimmers for ease of removing sludge and debris. ~ netting the pond during the Fall to keep leaves out of the pond. ~ trimming dead growth from the plants and removing floating tropicals if you live in colder climates. ~ Sacrifices to the Pond Goddess. Run to your nearest garden center and buy a gazing ball, a dragonfly garden stake and bullfrog spitter. Place around your pond and ask humbly for clear water. ~ patience, patience and eternal optimism. K30A pond tips http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/writing.html
I had the same thing, and installed a UV (25W for 2000Gal) Clear water 4 days later – fantastic!
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > I’ve had my pond up and running for about 3-4 months with much success > and enjoyment. First frogs, now a bunch of tadpoles, A few feeder > goldfish and now > babies, dragonflies , beetles and all the other bugs that go with the > pond. > I’ve had clear water up till now.For the past week it has slowly gotten > murky and getting worse. I can still see bottom but not for long if this > keep going on. > Question? Is this an algae bloom or some other problem ,maybe with the > bio filter > and bacteria or something else . > how long do algae blooms last and is there anything to do to shorten it > . > any help would be appreciated. > Thanks : )
I used to have a huge pond in the house I used to live in, loved to watch things take off in the spring. Now I live with my Dad and will be for quite some time. He says "absolutely no holes in my yard!" 
I would love to find an inexpensive way to create an above ground pond on the patio, smallish. I did have a nice aquarium stored in the garage and planned to keep some fish there to chase away the blues, but I dropped it and it busted to millions of pieces. Can’t afford to buy another big one, and 10 gallons just won’t cut it. I’m a true nature lover, and can’t stand having just a puppy and a beta, lol. Thanks for any inexpensive and fun suggestions!!! Cheri
~~ I would love to find an inexpensive way to create an above ground pond on the patio, smallish.~~ Really any container will do! As long as it holds water. You’ll just have to experiment with the conditions that you have (sun, electricity to run a pump, shade, etc.) A good resource for the type of pond you are describing is http://www.primenet.com/~jvc/hbpond.html good luck! ~k30~ and the watergardening labradors see the girls at http://www.daydreamergardens.com/2_level/articles/dog_how_to.htm http://www.daydreamergardens.com/2_level/articles/dog_tips.htm
Above ground ponds or patio ponds or condo ponds are not hard to build and not that expensive. They are also portable, or at least they can be dismantled and moved. I have built them out of railroad ties, landscape timbers and even 3/4 plywood. In this ;months KOI USA there is an article about building one. If you like I have an article I wrote on how to build one cheap from plywood and 2×4’s. — Todo — North Florida Koi Club,
I used to have a huge pond in the house I used to live in, loved to watch things take off in the spring. Now I live with my Dad and will be for quite some time. He says "absolutely no holes in my yard!" I would love to find an inexpensive way to create an above ground pond on the patio, smallish. I did have a nice aquarium stored in the garage and planned to keep some fish there to chase away the blues, but I dropped it and it busted to millions of pieces. Can’t afford to buy another big one, and 10 gallons just won’t cut it. I’m a true nature lover, and can’t stand having just a puppy and a beta, lol. Thanks for any inexpensive and fun suggestions!!! Cheri
~~ I would love to find an inexpensive way to create an above ground pond on the patio, smallish.~~ Really any container will do! As long as it holds water. You’ll just have to experiment with the conditions that you have (sun, electricity to run a pump, shade, etc.) A good resource for the type of pond you are describing is http://www.primenet.com/~jvc/hbpond.html good luck! ~k30~ and the watergardening labradors see the girls at http://www.daydreamergardens.com/2_level/articles/dog_how_to.htm http://www.daydreamergardens.com/2_level/articles/dog_tips.htm
Above ground ponds or patio ponds or condo ponds are not hard to build and not that expensive. They are also portable, or at least they can be dismantled and moved. I have built them out of railroad ties, landscape timbers and even 3/4 plywood. In this ;months KOI USA there is an article about building one. If you like I have an article I wrote on how to build one cheap from plywood and 2×4’s. — Todo — North Florida Koi Club,