Here is some more real news about the cruise industry. As usual, the ta’s on this group have failed to post any meaningful information about the cruise industry. If a ship starts serving cracked crab, they will inform you ASAP!! Critics Christen Ship Project as an Off-Course U.S.S. Pork By LESLIE WAYNE NY TIMES Two years ago, with waving flags and hula dancers swaying, the government announced an ambitious program to build two passenger cruise ships
There’s also the US Army Field Manual on Carpentry, [FM 5-426] Available online, free at: http://www.adtdl.army.mil/cgi-bin/atdl.dll/fm/5-426/default.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > > Does anyone have a recommendation for a beginner book on framing. I’d > > > The best book i have found it one that the fed. government published > > > years ago and although they dont have it they have it any longer… it > > > was called Wood Frame construction…. due to the govt. not copyrighting
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > Does anyone have a recommendation for a beginner book on framing. I’d > > > like to read about how to do the basics and calculations etc. Some of > > > the books I’ve seen are more for people who already have experience > > > and want to improve their efficiency others are books on how to use > > > tools. > > > Example topics I’d like to see are stuff like removing a stud in a > > > load bearing wall how to build a header for it, etc. TIA. > > The best book i have found it one that the fed. government published > > years ago and although they dont have it they have it any longer… it > > was called Wood Frame construction…. due to the govt. not copyrighting > > it it was renamed and printed up by private publisher.. a friend at work > > loaned me the one he got for free from the govt. printing office years > > ago.. i went to the book store and bought one that looks like it page by > > page… it seems its the same book….. > > the one i have it called "Modern Carpentry". by Willis H. Wagner > > publisher: The Goodheart-Willcox Co. inc. sounth Holland, Illinois… > > i bought it about 15-20 yrs. for $13.92 at either B.Daltons or Waldon > > books… it covers everything… 475 pages.. it covered the framing of a > > house, the roofing, the door frames, just about everything.. it also > > shows how to space the roof rafters, ceiling joist, flooring joist, and > > 8, etc. depending on the span and the load they have to carry…. > > the only thing i did not like about it was that the houses and examples > > were for houses with basememts. where i live in the south we dont have > > basements and i needed to go with a concrete slab foundation on the > > floor for a garage that i was making and did not get much help from this > > book on that, but the rest of the book was great…. I think the reason > > why you get so much info in this book is that the pub/author did not > > have to do much work on it and just copied the non copyrighted govt. > > book and slapped a new cover on it.. its pretty thorough…. > > Its a 8 1/2 by 11 in. book with hard cover.. so to keep the price down > > they might probably have it in soft cover now to charge you $19.95 or so > > for the book.. you can call one of the book store to see what the price > > would be and order it.. its copyrighted 1979 by the goodheat-willcox > > co. ISBN 0-87006-274-3 hope this helps. > WOW, thanks for the reply and recommendation. I just ordered a used > copy for $5.25 based on your recommendation. > That’s a good book, and a good price too. _Modern Carpentry_ was and > probably still is used for training apprentice carpenters, that’s how I > ended up with a copy 25 years ago. > Dallas
25 years ago…. do you remember the US govt. printing office giving this same book away(well they had it printed up like the did years ago and gave away just about every printed book they made, not like now where you have to pay for the stuff they print now….. It seems to me that the publisher of this book the one i bought had a word for word, picture for picture of the entire book.. a friend at work had the govt. printing office copy and it looked like it was just copied, with a few
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Does anyone have a recommendation for a beginner book on framing. I’d > > like to read about how to do the basics and calculations etc. Some of > > the books I’ve seen are more for people who already have experience > > and want to improve their efficiency others are books on how to use > > tools. > > Example topics I’d like to see are stuff like removing a stud in a > > load bearing wall how to build a header for it, etc. TIA. > The best book i have found it one that the fed. government published > years ago and although they dont have it they have it any longer… it > was called Wood Frame construction…. due to the govt. not copyrighting > it it was renamed and printed up by private publisher.. a friend at work > loaned me the one he got for free from the govt. printing office years > ago.. i went to the book store and bought one that looks like it page by > page… it seems its the same book….. > the one i have it called "Modern Carpentry". by Willis H. Wagner > publisher: The Goodheart-Willcox Co. inc. sounth Holland, Illinois… > i bought it about 15-20 yrs. for $13.92 at either B.Daltons or Waldon > books… it covers everything… 475 pages.. it covered the framing of a > house, the roofing, the door frames, just about everything.. it also > shows how to space the roof rafters, ceiling joist, flooring joist, and > 8, etc. depending on the span and the load they have to carry…. > the only thing i did not like about it was that the houses and examples > were for houses with basememts. where i live in the south we dont have > basements and i needed to go with a concrete slab foundation on the > floor for a garage that i was making and did not get much help from this > book on that, but the rest of the book was great…. I think the reason > why you get so much info in this book is that the pub/author did not > have to do much work on it and just copied the non copyrighted govt. > book and slapped a new cover on it.. its pretty thorough…. > Its a 8 1/2 by 11 in. book with hard cover.. so to keep the price down > they might probably have it in soft cover now to charge you $19.95 or so > for the book.. you can call one of the book store to see what the price > would be and order it.. its copyrighted 1979 by the goodheat-willcox > co. ISBN 0-87006-274-3 hope this helps. > WOW, thanks for the reply and recommendation. I just ordered a used > copy for $5.25 based on your recommendation.
good you will be well satisfied, well worth it…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Does anyone have a recommendation for a beginner book on framing. I’d > > like to read about how to do the basics and calculations etc. Some of > > the books I’ve seen are more for people who already have experience > > and want to improve their efficiency others are books on how to use > > tools. > > Example topics I’d like to see are stuff like removing a stud in a > > load bearing wall how to build a header for it, etc. TIA. > The best book i have found it one that the fed. government published > years ago and although they dont have it they have it any longer… it > was called Wood Frame construction…. due to the govt. not copyrighting > it it was renamed and printed up by private publisher.. a friend at work > loaned me the one he got for free from the govt. printing office years > ago.. i went to the book store and bought one that looks like it page by > page… it seems its the same book….. > the one i have it called "Modern Carpentry". by Willis H. Wagner > publisher: The Goodheart-Willcox Co. inc. sounth Holland, Illinois… > i bought it about 15-20 yrs. for $13.92 at either B.Daltons or Waldon > books… it covers everything… 475 pages.. it covered the framing of a > house, the roofing, the door frames, just about everything.. it also > shows how to space the roof rafters, ceiling joist, flooring joist, and > 8, etc. depending on the span and the load they have to carry…. > the only thing i did not like about it was that the houses and examples > were for houses with basememts. where i live in the south we dont have > basements and i needed to go with a concrete slab foundation on the > floor for a garage that i was making and did not get much help from this > book on that, but the rest of the book was great…. I think the reason > why you get so much info in this book is that the pub/author did not > have to do much work on it and just copied the non copyrighted govt. > book and slapped a new cover on it.. its pretty thorough…. > Its a 8 1/2 by 11 in. book with hard cover.. so to keep the price down > they might probably have it in soft cover now to charge you $19.95 or so > for the book.. you can call one of the book store to see what the price > would be and order it.. its copyrighted 1979 by the goodheat-willcox > co. ISBN 0-87006-274-3 hope this helps. > WOW, thanks for the reply and recommendation. I just ordered a used > copy for $5.25 based on your recommendation.
That’s a good book, and a good price too. _Modern Carpentry_ was and probably still is used for training apprentice carpenters, that’s how I ended up with a copy 25 years ago. Dallas
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does anyone have a recommendation for a beginner book on framing. I’d > like to read about how to do the basics and calculations etc. Some of > the books I’ve seen are more for people who already have experience > and want to improve their efficiency others are books on how to use > tools. > Example topics I’d like to see are stuff like removing a stud in a > load bearing wall how to build a header for it, etc. TIA. > The best book i have found it one that the fed. government published > years ago and although they dont have it they have it any longer… it > was called Wood Frame construction…. due to the govt. not copyrighting > it it was renamed and printed up by private publisher.. a friend at work > loaned me the one he got for free from the govt. printing office years > ago.. i went to the book store and bought one that looks like it page by > page… it seems its the same book….. > the one i have it called "Modern Carpentry". by Willis H. Wagner > publisher: The Goodheart-Willcox Co. inc. sounth Holland, Illinois… > i bought it about 15-20 yrs. for $13.92 at either B.Daltons or Waldon > books… it covers everything… 475 pages.. it covered the framing of a > house, the roofing, the door frames, just about everything.. it also > shows how to space the roof rafters, ceiling joist, flooring joist, and > 8, etc. depending on the span and the load they have to carry…. > the only thing i did not like about it was that the houses and examples > were for houses with basememts. where i live in the south we dont have > basements and i needed to go with a concrete slab foundation on the > floor for a garage that i was making and did not get much help from this > book on that, but the rest of the book was great…. I think the reason > why you get so much info in this book is that the pub/author did not > have to do much work on it and just copied the non copyrighted govt. > book and slapped a new cover on it.. its pretty thorough…. > Its a 8 1/2 by 11 in. book with hard cover.. so to keep the price down > they might probably have it in soft cover now to charge you $19.95 or so > for the book.. you can call one of the book store to see what the price > would be and order it.. its copyrighted 1979 by the goodheat-willcox > co. ISBN 0-87006-274-3 hope this helps.
WOW, thanks for the reply and recommendation. I just ordered a used copy for $5.25 based on your recommendation.
Does anyone have a recommendation for a beginner book on framing. I’d like to read about how to do the basics and calculations etc. Some of the books I’ve seen are more for people who already have experience and want to improve their efficiency others are books on how to use tools. Example topics I’d like to see are stuff like removing a stud in a load bearing wall how to build a header for it, etc. TIA.
> Does anyone have a recommendation for a beginner book on framing. I’d > like to read about how to do the basics and calculations etc. Some of > the books I’ve seen are more for people who already have experience > and want to improve their efficiency others are books on how to use > tools. > Example topics I’d like to see are stuff like removing a stud in a > load bearing wall how to build a header for it, etc. TIA.
The best book i have found it one that the fed. government published years ago and although they dont have it they have it any longer… it was called Wood Frame construction…. due to the govt. not copyrighting it it was renamed and printed up by private publisher.. a friend at work loaned me the one he got for free from the govt. printing office years ago.. i went to the book store and bought one that looks like it page by page… it seems its the same book….. the one i have it called "Modern Carpentry". by Willis H. Wagner publisher: The Goodheart-Willcox Co. inc. sounth Holland, Illinois… i bought it about 15-20 yrs. for $13.92 at either B.Daltons or Waldon books… it covers everything… 475 pages.. it covered the framing of a house, the roofing, the door frames, just about everything.. it also shows how to space the roof rafters, ceiling joist, flooring joist, and 8, etc. depending on the span and the load they have to carry…. the only thing i did not like about it was that the houses and examples were for houses with basememts. where i live in the south we dont have basements and i needed to go with a concrete slab foundation on the floor for a garage that i was making and did not get much help from this book on that, but the rest of the book was great…. I think the reason why you get so much info in this book is that the pub/author did not have to do much work on it and just copied the non copyrighted govt. book and slapped a new cover on it.. its pretty thorough…. Its a 8 1/2 by 11 in. book with hard cover.. so to keep the price down they might probably have it in soft cover now to charge you $19.95 or so for the book.. you can call one of the book store to see what the price would be and order it.. its copyrighted 1979 by the goodheat-willcox co. ISBN 0-87006-274-3 hope this helps.
>so whos gonna url soft for dwnld and cable build details lets make it >really educational 
Any registered VAG-COM users realize that the utility and advancement of their bought-and-paid-for software would be significantly diminished if Uwe can’t pay the bills. So go to www.ross-tech.com and download the trial version, and also find out how to build or buy your own cable. If you really like what it does, pry open your wallet and pay the man. /daytripper ‘00 S4 6spd
so whos gonna url soft for dwnld and cable build details lets make it really educational – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>> >I was wondering if anyone has the VAG-COM diagnostic software in the >>> >UK (Midlands). Is it worth it ? >>> I’m not in the UK, but if you don’t mind a ‘Murrican opinion: yes, it’s >>> definitely worth it! >>> /daytripper >>> ‘00 S4 6spd + laptop + licensed VAG-COM = fun for body and brain 
>>How much is the software, and the cable. Is it as good as the dealer >>software, are all functions possible. >>Im suprised that only 1 person has replied and no one from the uk has >>this software. It could be a good business idea to have this software, >>what are your opinions on this. > Is it as good as the dealer? No. Dealer uses some pretty neat >stuff these days. However, if you have ever used a portable VAG, this >stuff is a breath of fresh air. I have a friend at the VW dealer, and >he uses it on his own laptop instead of the VAG. What’s that tell >you? Add to it the fact that it can reside on a laptop that can also >house your Bentley CD-ROM manuals, and you have a winner. Running a >Wintel book, using the manuals and the VAG-Com simultaniously is a big >plus. I also create a file and keep notes for each customer. Nice to >have record of codes in the case of intermittents. I very rarely use >the VAG anymore. VAG-Com is pissy with airbags on occasion, maybe >it’s just me. I still have a year old version, am too lazy to update, >and have never asked Ross-Tech a single question. > However, at under $200, it is worth every dime. I have no >recollection what I paid for that damn VAG from Baum tools, but it was >a lot. It is the most user unfriendly thing I own. >I’m in the US. You’re on your own in the UK, however, the VAG is your >diagnostic tool there as well. I see no reason why it should cause >you any pain. >What he said! >I don’t run a shop, I just own an S4. I have an inherent distrust of >dealership service departments (go figure) and I’m a hard-core techno-dweeb. >That makes me the prototypical RossTech customer >VAG-COM allows me to dump codes before the car goes in for its scheduled >service, and if anything untoward were to pop up I’d be able to let the >service manager know that I *know* there were specific DTCs when I brought the >car in. And I can see if the service crew inspired any problems while they >were supposedly just changing the oil and vinegar >I can also mess about with various settings (central locking features, >lighting functions, throttle body adaptation, etc), reset DTC codes and set >Readiness Codes after pulling the battery ground when mucking with the wiring >(V1 installation, changer install, digging into the Symphony/Bose to wire my >not-from-Audi cell to the cars integrated hands-free hardware), etc. >It is also possible to determine performance criteria like optimal shift >points by plotting the calculated torque vs rpm (the ECU makes that data >available to any VAG tool), check things like manifold pressure, air/fuel >ratio, ambient and intercooled air temps, etc, in real time under different >driving conditions, and keep a record of the more interesting metrics to see >if they change over time. >I bought the Bentley S4/A4 CD the same day I picked up my S4 and spent a lot >of my otherwise free time digging through it, just to get a better >understanding of all the systems in my car. I run the Bentley program together >with VAG-COM, making it quite easy to walk through all the various systems and >correlate readings against the manual. >I paid around USD190 for VAG-COM with Ross-Tech’s adapter cord, and imo it was >the best "aftermarket option" I’ve bought for the car (the oem changer is a >close second >If you really want to develop a better understanding on what’s going on under >the hood – or if you just plain don’t trust your service department – I highly >recommend VAG-COM, though I have no financial interest in it. >/daytripper >’00 S4 6spd – I only wish I got a cut of Uwe’s business
I was wondering if anyone has the VAG-COM diagnostic software in the UK (Midlands). Is it worth it ? Cheers Harmesh
>I was wondering if anyone has the VAG-COM diagnostic software in the >UK (Midlands). Is it worth it ?
I’m not in the UK, but if you don’t mind a ‘Murrican opinion: yes, it’s definitely worth it! /daytripper ‘00 S4 6spd + laptop + licensed VAG-COM = fun for body and brain
> >I was wondering if anyone has the VAG-COM diagnostic software in the >UK (Midlands). Is it worth it ? > I’m not in the UK, but if you don’t mind a ‘Murrican opinion: yes, it’s > definitely worth it! > /daytripper > ‘00 S4 6spd + laptop + licensed VAG-COM = fun for body and brain
How much is the software, and the cable. Is it as good as the dealer software, are all functions possible. Im suprised that only 1 person has replied and no one from the uk has this software. It could be a good business idea to have this software, what are your opinions on this.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >I was wondering if anyone has the VAG-COM diagnostic software in the > >UK (Midlands). Is it worth it ? > I’m not in the UK, but if you don’t mind a ‘Murrican opinion: yes, it’s > definitely worth it! > /daytripper > ‘00 S4 6spd + laptop + licensed VAG-COM = fun for body and brain > How much is the software, and the cable. Is it as good as the dealer > software, are all functions possible. > Im suprised that only 1 person has replied and no one from the uk has > this software. It could be a good business idea to have this software, > what are your opinions on this.
interface and software in the UK – he’s recommended VAG-COM for the Audi cars – I’ve asked for a price. Steve
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> >I was wondering if anyone has the VAG-COM diagnostic software in the >> >UK (Midlands). Is it worth it ? >> I’m not in the UK, but if you don’t mind a ‘Murrican opinion: yes, it’s >> definitely worth it! >> /daytripper >> ‘00 S4 6spd + laptop + licensed VAG-COM = fun for body and brain >How much is the software, and the cable. Is it as good as the dealer >software, are all functions possible. >Im suprised that only 1 person has replied and no one from the uk has >this software. It could be a good business idea to have this software, >what are your opinions on this. > Is it as good as the dealer? No. Dealer uses some pretty neat >stuff these days. However, if you have ever used a portable VAG, this >stuff is a breath of fresh air. I have a friend at the VW dealer, and >he uses it on his own laptop instead of the VAG. What’s that tell >you? Add to it the fact that it can reside on a laptop that can also >house your Bentley CD-ROM manuals, and you have a winner. Running a >Wintel book, using the manuals and the VAG-Com simultaniously is a big >plus. I also create a file and keep notes for each customer. Nice to >have record of codes in the case of intermittents. I very rarely use >the VAG anymore. VAG-Com is pissy with airbags on occasion, maybe >it’s just me. I still have a year old version, am too lazy to update, >and have never asked Ross-Tech a single question. > However, at under $200, it is worth every dime. I have no >recollection what I paid for that damn VAG from Baum tools, but it was >a lot. It is the most user unfriendly thing I own. >I’m in the US. You’re on your own in the UK, however, the VAG is your >diagnostic tool there as well. I see no reason why it should cause >you any pain.
What he said! I don’t run a shop, I just own an S4. I have an inherent distrust of dealership service departments (go figure) and I’m a hard-core techno-dweeb. That makes me the prototypical RossTech customer VAG-COM allows me to dump codes before the car goes in for its scheduled service, and if anything untoward were to pop up I’d be able to let the service manager know that I *know* there were specific DTCs when I brought the car in. And I can see if the service crew inspired any problems while they were supposedly just changing the oil and vinegar I can also mess about with various settings (central locking features, lighting functions, throttle body adaptation, etc), reset DTC codes and set Readiness Codes after pulling the battery ground when mucking with the wiring (V1 installation, changer install, digging into the Symphony/Bose to wire my not-from-Audi cell to the cars integrated hands-free hardware), etc. It is also possible to determine performance criteria like optimal shift points by plotting the calculated torque vs rpm (the ECU makes that data available to any VAG tool), check things like manifold pressure, air/fuel ratio, ambient and intercooled air temps, etc, in real time under different driving conditions, and keep a record of the more interesting metrics to see if they change over time. I bought the Bentley S4/A4 CD the same day I picked up my S4 and spent a lot of my otherwise free time digging through it, just to get a better understanding of all the systems in my car. I run the Bentley program together with VAG-COM, making it quite easy to walk through all the various systems and correlate readings against the manual. I paid around USD190 for VAG-COM with Ross-Tech’s adapter cord, and imo it was the best "aftermarket option" I’ve bought for the car (the oem changer is a close second If you really want to develop a better understanding on what’s going on under the hood – or if you just plain don’t trust your service department – I highly recommend VAG-COM, though I have no financial interest in it. /daytripper ‘00 S4 6spd – I only wish I got a cut of Uwe’s business
cool! had a counter weight on the other end of the pivot – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> that would spin around and smack into the back of the car with the kids > playing mailbox baseball.
> Just two observations: > brick and stone mailboxes are coming under fire as road hazards. if you > live on a busy street or highway, you may find your local community making > them illegal. > booby-trapped mailboxes that can cause injury or damage if they are hit > are the kinds of things lawyers love. you can buy a lot of new mailboxes > for the cost of one civil suit, even if you win.
Agree. Same with ‘Garbage Boxes’ etc, if they are allowed in your community. And, which this winter, in our community are buried in the unusual amounts of snow! When outside the property line, snow plows make short work of them! Haven’t seen ours for the last month or more even though it is within our fence line! Anyway whatever it is keep it within your property line, which here, in rural communities, is normally 30 feet from centreline of road/right of way. If it is out in the ‘public’ right of way or road it should be as innocuous, normal, non unusual and non threatening as possible! "Just an ordinary mail box, your Honour. Same as in thousands of other communities and homes across North America etc.". Terry S.
How about a breakaway mailbox, along the same lines they now make most streetlight poles and big traffic signs? Some sort of durable socket, at ground level, with a doglegged pole that fits in an angled socket, such that a vehicle hitting it in the usual traffic direction will pop it out of the ground, and drop it in the yard? All you have to do is to pick it up and drop it back in the hole, after perhaps doing a little blacksmith work. If you are worried about kids tugging it out on the way to school, have a breakaway pin, such as a wood dowel in a non-obvious location to hold it in. Or maybe just a big hinge at base, with a cheap replacable pin holding it upright. If the pole was made out of the same stranded fibre stuff they make shovel handles out of, and the box is made from a polyproplene that that handles cold and UV well, it would probably even survive several impacts with no damage. This would also make it easier to mow, or to clean or paint the box. Just pitch it in trunk, and haul it along to coin-op car wash. If made in a factory, it could probably be done as cheaply as those ubixious Rubbermaid green or charcoal plastic things, that shatter in cold after the first year of UV exposure. I’ve always kind of liked the boxes on old truck springs, or rigged on the end of a spring-loaded boom such that a vehicle or snow mound just pushes it out of the way. aem sends…
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Just two observations: > brick and stone mailboxes are coming under fire as road hazards. if you > live on a busy street or highway, you may find your local community making > them illegal. > booby-trapped mailboxes that can cause injury or damage if they are hit > are the kinds of things lawyers love. you can buy a lot of new mailboxes > for the cost of one civil suit, even if you win. > Agree. Same with ‘Garbage Boxes’ etc, if they are allowed in your > community. And, which this winter, in our community are buried in the > unusual amounts of snow! When outside the property line, snow plows make > short work of them! Haven’t seen ours for the last month or more even > though it is within our fence line! > Anyway whatever it is keep it within your property line, which here, in > rural communities, is normally 30 feet from centreline of road/right of > way. > If it is out in the ‘public’ right of way or road it should be as > innocuous, normal, non unusual and non threatening as possible! "Just an > ordinary mail box, your Honour. Same as in thousands of other > communities and homes across North America etc.". > Terry S.
> Has anyone seen anything online about how to build a > brick or stone mailbox? I would like to do this project and > need some info. > thanks! > adrian
I could be wrong, but I seem to remember that all streetside mailboxes had to be a USPS approved model, and If you want to build your own decorative mailbox it has to surround a purchased "approved" box. Jeff Wisnia W1BSV Brass Rat ‘57 ee "Things which go away by themselves usually come back by themselves."
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Build a pivot so if some one runs into the box it will pivot around. I >heard of someone that had a counter weight on the other end of the pivot >that would spin around and smack into the back of the car with the kids >playing mailbox baseball. >– >Roger Shoaf >If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent. > Has anyone seen anything online about how to build a > brick or stone mailbox? I would like to do this project and > need some info. > thanks! > adrian
Just two observations: brick and stone mailboxes are coming under fire as road hazards. if you live on a busy street or highway, you may find your local community making them illegal. booby-trapped mailboxes that can cause injury or damage if they are hit are the kinds of things lawyers love. you can buy a lot of new mailboxes for the cost of one civil suit, even if you win.
Build a pivot so if some one runs into the box it will pivot around. I heard of someone that had a counter weight on the other end of the pivot that would spin around and smack into the back of the car with the kids playing mailbox baseball. — Roger Shoaf If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Has anyone seen anything online about how to build a > brick or stone mailbox? I would like to do this project and > need some info. > thanks! > adrian
Has anyone seen anything online about how to build a brick or stone mailbox? I would like to do this project and need some info. thanks! adrian
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Has anyone seen anything online about how to build a > brick or stone mailbox? I would like to do this project and > need some info. > thanks! > adrian > Hi: > Sorry, I can’t tell you ‘how-to’ build it. But I would like to make you > aware that there are federal laws (United States) regarding how high the > unit must be, how far it should be set back from the street, etc. Good idea > to get this info from your local post office before you build > —
There may also be local ordinances concerning what type of materials and costruction are allowed. I once had my mailbox removed and replaced by the county I lived in. Tired of my mailbox being vandalized, I installed a 6" creosoted post 4 feet deep, with a 1/4" steel mailbox on top. Seems they didn’t think this was "safe" if somebody hit it. Which was exactly my point. — David Wallis
Thanks, I will check into it. Actually this is to replace my friend’s mailbox that was smashed and destroyed the other night. We are looking for something more ‘permanent’ than a box on a post. The pad is already there, though covered with snow! adrian – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Has anyone seen anything online about how to build a > brick or stone mailbox? I would like to do this project and > need some info. > thanks! > adrian > Hi: > Sorry, I can’t tell you ‘how-to’ build it. But I would like to make you > aware that there are federal laws (United States) regarding how high the > unit must be, how far it should be set back from the street, etc. Good idea > to get this info from your local post office before you build > — > –Phil Marshall–
>….. I once had my mailbox removed and >replaced by the county I lived in. Tired of my mailbox being >vandalized, I installed a 6" creosoted post 4 feet deep, with a 1/4" >steel mailbox on top. Seems they didn’t think this was "safe" if >somebody hit it. Which was exactly my point.
An interesting ethical question, to what degree is it it proper for me, being pissed off, to endanger the traveling public (who did not dmaage my mailbox) in my efforts to save myself some time and money on new mailboxes… or should I put my efforts into video surveillance to aid in the prosecution of the vandals who are actually doing the damage. I can make many of the arguments: "my mailbox is less of a hazard than a utility pole or a tree"; "you are not supposed to run off the road, therefore if you do it is not my fault what happens to you", etc. However, there is certainly another side to the question on how to make a fortress mailbox. There are indeed ramifications. When I was a kid, one of the neighbors built brick "gateposts" about 3 ft square by 5 feet high, right at the edge of the pavement. The Town made him remove it as a hazard (it was in the road right of way, too). Now, if that had been a brick mailbox instead of a gatepost, would that have made it okay? If his other mailbox had been vandalized, would that make the brick structure any less of a traffic hazard? regards, -v.
I’ve seen armored mailboxes with reinforced posts in my area. I don’t know if the laws are different here or just not enforced. It seems that if you ask the Post Office, the building inspector and the dept. of highways, you’ve probably covered all the authorities that might regulate these things. If they object to a rigid unyielding post for safety reasons, maybe you could devise something with a spring-loaded hinge on the bottom that would fall right over when struck by a car but bounce back up again after the car passes over it (after, of course, ripping up the underside of the car). My solution was to get a post office box. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Thanks, I will check into it. Actually this is to replace my friend’s > mailbox that was smashed and destroyed the other night. We are > looking for something more ‘permanent’ than a box on a post. > The pad is already there, though covered with snow! > adrian > > Has anyone seen anything online about how to build a > > brick or stone mailbox? I would like to do this project and > > need some info. > > thanks! > > adrian > Hi: > Sorry, I can’t tell you ‘how-to’ build it. But I would like to make you > aware that there are federal laws (United States) regarding how high the > unit must be, how far it should be set back from the street, etc. Good idea > to get this info from your local post office before you build > — > –Phil Marshall–
I don’t know the construction specifics, but… If you go for a brick mail box design…. We had one installed and the guy suggested a neat add-on. He recessed a regular US PO approved mail box in the top, but, before he put it in, he detached the bottom plate???? Directly below the bottom plate, he installed another mail box UPSIDE DOWN & BACKWARDS. It also had it’s bottom plate removed. The top mailbox has its bottom plate dropped in place during "normal" times. When we go away for a long weekend, or even a week…the top mailbox’s "bottom plate" is removed. That allows the excess mail to drop through the hollow brick structure, into the bottom mail box. The FRONT of the BOTTOM mailbox is pointed at and opens at the BACK of the brick structure. i.e. No one knows we have an "expandable" mailbox other than ourselves. When we return from a trip, we open the bottom mail box’s cover and withdraw a ton of mail. Just thought I would share! — regards, RichG .
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Has anyone seen anything online about how to build a > brick or stone mailbox? I would like to do this project and > need some info. > thanks! > adrian > Hi: > Sorry, I can’t tell you ‘how-to’ build it. But I would like to make you > aware that there are federal laws (United States) regarding how high the > unit must be, how far it should be set back from the street, etc. Good idea > to get this info from your local post office before you build > — > –Phil Marshall–
Bill, I’d like to have a set of your plans. Thanks, Bill Kenner Nashville, TN – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does anyone know of a web site, or other resource, that provides plans > on how to build a wooden deer stand?? Does anyone have a good wooden > deer stand design??? > Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: > http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/ > I have a design that is the most stable and safe stand I have ever > used. It can be used for gun or bow. Email me if you want particulars. > Bill > — > Bill and Nancy Weiler > Tony, Wisconsin > <http://home.centurytel.net/spinandfish/spinandfish> > Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: > http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
Bill- I would be interested in your design, if it is not too much trouble to send. Thanks Joel – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text —— Original Message —– Newsgroups: rec.hunting Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 9:39 PM > Does anyone know of a web site, or other resource, that provides plans > on how to build a wooden deer stand?? Does anyone have a good wooden > deer stand design??? > Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: > http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/ > I have a design that is the most stable and safe stand I have ever > used. It can be used for gun or bow. Email me if you want particulars. > Bill > — > Bill and Nancy Weiler > Tony, Wisconsin > <http://home.centurytel.net/spinandfish/spinandfish> > Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: > http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/ Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
> Does anyone know of a web site, or other resource, that provides plans > on how to build a wooden deer stand?? Does anyone have a good wooden > deer stand design??? > Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: > http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
I have a design that is the most stable and safe stand I have ever used. It can be used for gun or bow. Email me if you want particulars. Bill — Bill and Nancy Weiler Tony, Wisconsin <http://home.centurytel.net/spinandfish/spinandfish> Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
writes: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Here’s my design: >4 8′ 4×4 posts (the legs for the 4 corners) >5 6′ 2×4 (front floor brace, back floor brace, front roof brace, > back roof brace, top of window brace (front, maybe back). >4 4′ 2×4 >5 or 6 sheets of cheap plywood > (front & backs cut to 6′ length, sides put on vertically). >1 sheet of 1/2 or 11/16 plywood (for floor, if needed). >Box of moderately good sized wood screws (work much better than nails). >Build a 6×4′ shed (outside dimensions). Make sure one of the sides is >attached with hinges, not just screwed in ;-) >–
That’t the exact description of one I built this last fall. You will need some kind of guy anchors for the corners. Both to keep it from swaying a/o blowing over from the wind. Bill Van Houten (USA Ret) "No matter how hard you try, you can’t throw a potato chip very far." "Linus" Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
Does anyone know of a web site, or other resource, that provides plans on how to build a wooden deer stand?? Does anyone have a good wooden deer stand design??? Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
> Does anyone know of a web site, or other resource, that provides plans > on how to build a wooden deer stand?? Does anyone have a good wooden > deer stand design???
After going through several iterations, I have come to the solution that the KISS method is best. You know KISS, right? Keep It Simple Stupid (applying to me, since I’ve tried some hum-dingers). Here’s my design: 4 8′ 4×4 posts (the legs for the 4 corners) 5 6′ 2×4 (front floor brace, back floor brace, front roof brace, back roof brace, top of window brace (front, maybe back). 4 4′ 2×4 5 or 6 sheets of cheap plywood (front & backs cut to 6′ length, sides put on vertically). 1 sheet of 1/2 or 11/16 plywood (for floor, if needed). Box of moderately good sized wood screws (work much better than nails). Build a 6×4′ shed (outside dimensions). Make sure one of the sides is attached with hinges, not just screwed in ;-) — + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + Chris Barnes AOL IM: CNBarnes Visit the rec.hunting and rec.hunting.dogs FAQ Home Page at: http://sportsmansweb.com/hunting/
This apparent | decline in the frog population makes me wonder if it is a part of the | trend being reported accross the country? We’ve seen little decline on the frog population here but have noticed a lack of toads the past 2 years (around our 2 ponds). Where are all the toads? The number of snakes has increased,… perhaps they had toad snacks? 
( — The Frugal ponder in zone 6 TN.
writes: >Please tell me how to build me a pond .My wife wants one but I have no >idea how to build it.
the first thing you should do is go buy a good book on pond construction and maintenance. any home depot, lowes or builders square carries a full line of these books and they will give you ideas and step by step instructions, Karen Houston, TX Zone 9a Member Internet Pond Society – IPS Visit My Pond at http://members.aol.com/kmam1/MyPond/MyPond.html My Art Studio at http://members.aol.com/kmmstudios/K.M.Studios/K.M.Studios.html My Antique Shop www.thebrowsery.com
>Please tell me how to build me a pond .My wife wants one but I have no >idea how to build it. > Thank you, > Myrum Abel
Karen’s comment recomending pond books posted above is good advise. In my case I was able to use the natural clay soil because (1) my soil is good tight natural clay, and (2) I have a good well to provide make up water at about 25 cents per 1000 gallons. I simply threw a clay dam across a natural normally dry rain run-off creek in my back yard. I pump 2 to 10 hours a week to make up for water loss depending on weather conditions. Such favorable conditions are not everywhere available. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My ornamental South Texas pond has a natural clay lining. It has 410 > sq ft of surface area and at spillway level holds about 6000 gallons > of water maintained by pumping from a well. It’s residents > traditionally have included a few koi, goldfish, mollies, white cloud > mountain minnows, frogs, and water Moccasins. This year the > following demographic changes have occured: > 1. The last of the koi was found floating belly up last Wednesday. > This was an 18 inch survivor of a dozen 5 inch koi added in the summer > of 1995. This fish was until now a survivor who grew too large to > become a victim of the moccsins and other preditors that visit this > rurial location. The koi had been normal until last weekend when I > noticed it seemed a bit slows. Possibly the developments under 2 and > 3 below had something to do with its termination? > 2. Last month I noticed two small 4 inch perch like fish had some how > found their way to the pond. Their is no way that they could have > washed into the pond. It is near the top of a dry hill. there are no > ponds above it. I suppose they could have come in with the 50 feeder > goldfish I put in last fall or eggs might have been carried from > another pond by a bird? I had not noticed these small fish niping at > the koi but I suppose this could have been a cause of its death. > 3. The same day I found the koi dead for the first time saw 2 or 3 > quite small turtles swiming in the pond. They were only 1 1/2 to 2 > inches in diameter so it don’t seem likely they contributed. There > are turtles in my large 3/4 acre catfish pond, 500 ft below the small > pond so I guess their appearence is not too much of a mystery. > 4. I think the frog population here is much reduced from other years. > I see mostly toads generally away from the pond. This apparent > decline in the frog population makes me wonder if it is a part of the > trend being reported accross the country? > Harold Arnold > http://lonestar.texas.net/~hhullar5
Please tell me how to build me a pond .My wife wants one but I have no idea how to build it. Thank you, Myrum Abel – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My ornamental South Texas pond has a natural clay lining. It has 410 > sq ft of surface area and at spillway level holds about 6000 gallons > of water maintained by pumping from a well. It’s residents > traditionally have included a few koi, goldfish, mollies, white cloud > mountain minnows, frogs, and water Moccasins. This year the > following demographic changes have occured: > 1. The last of the koi was found floating belly up last Wednesday. > This was an 18 inch survivor of a dozen 5 inch koi added in the summer > of 1995. This fish was until now a survivor who grew too large to > become a victim of the moccsins and other preditors that visit this > rurial location. The koi had been normal until last weekend when I > noticed it seemed a bit slows. Possibly the developments under 2 and > 3 below had something to do with its termination? > 2. Last month I noticed two small 4 inch perch like fish had some how > found their way to the pond. Their is no way that they could have > washed into the pond. It is near the top of a dry hill. there are no > ponds above it. I suppose they could have come in with the 50 feeder > goldfish I put in last fall or eggs might have been carried from > another pond by a bird? I had not noticed these small fish niping at > the koi but I suppose this could have been a cause of its death. > 3. The same day I found the koi dead for the first time saw 2 or 3 > quite small turtles swiming in the pond. They were only 1 1/2 to 2 > inches in diameter so it don’t seem likely they contributed. There > are turtles in my large 3/4 acre catfish pond, 500 ft below the small > pond so I guess their appearence is not too much of a mystery. > 4. I think the frog population here is much reduced from other years. > I see mostly toads generally away from the pond. This apparent > decline in the frog population makes me wonder if it is a part of the > trend being reported accross the country? > Harold Arnold > http://lonestar.texas.net/~hhullar5
>My ornamental South Texas pond… >I think the frog population here is much reduced from other years.
Frog population varies with the insect population. La Nina is implicated in this year’s drought in the southwest and east coast, including south and west Texas. In contrast, the last two El Nino years were much wetter than average. For an overview and weekly updates on the current drought, see NOAA Climate Prediction Center http://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/index_frame.html Select "Climate Monitoring", "USA", "Drought Severity Index" – Rod
My ornamental South Texas pond has a natural clay lining. It has 410 sq ft of surface area and at spillway level holds about 6000 gallons of water maintained by pumping from a well. It’s residents traditionally have included a few koi, goldfish, mollies, white cloud mountain minnows, frogs, and water Moccasins. This year the following demographic changes have occured: 1. The last of the koi was found floating belly up last Wednesday. This was an 18 inch survivor of a dozen 5 inch koi added in the summer of 1995. This fish was until now a survivor who grew too large to become a victim of the moccsins and other preditors that visit this rurial location. The koi had been normal until last weekend when I noticed it seemed a bit slows. Possibly the developments under 2 and 3 below had something to do with its termination? 2. Last month I noticed two small 4 inch perch like fish had some how found their way to the pond. Their is no way that they could have washed into the pond. It is near the top of a dry hill. there are no ponds above it. I suppose they could have come in with the 50 feeder goldfish I put in last fall or eggs might have been carried from another pond by a bird? I had not noticed these small fish niping at the koi but I suppose this could have been a cause of its death. 3. The same day I found the koi dead for the first time saw 2 or 3 quite small turtles swiming in the pond. They were only 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter so it don’t seem likely they contributed. There are turtles in my large 3/4 acre catfish pond, 500 ft below the small pond so I guess their appearence is not too much of a mystery. 4. I think the frog population here is much reduced from other years. I see mostly toads generally away from the pond. This apparent decline in the frog population makes me wonder if it is a part of the trend being reported accross the country? Harold Arnold http://lonestar.texas.net/~hhullar5
This apparent | decline in the frog population makes me wonder if it is a part of the | trend being reported accross the country? We’ve seen little decline on the frog population here but have noticed a lack of toads the past 2 years (around our 2 ponds). Where are all the toads? The number of snakes has increased,… perhaps they had toad snacks? ( — The Frugal ponder in zone 6 TN.
writes: >Please tell me how to build me a pond .My wife wants one but I have no >idea how to build it.
the first thing you should do is go buy a good book on pond construction and maintenance. any home depot, lowes or builders square carries a full line of these books and they will give you ideas and step by step instructions, Karen Houston, TX Zone 9a Member Internet Pond Society – IPS Visit My Pond at http://members.aol.com/kmam1/MyPond/MyPond.html My Art Studio at http://members.aol.com/kmmstudios/K.M.Studios/K.M.Studios.html My Antique Shop www.thebrowsery.com
>Please tell me how to build me a pond .My wife wants one but I have no >idea how to build it. > Thank you, > Myrum Abel
Karen’s comment recomending pond books posted above is good advise. In my case I was able to use the natural clay soil because (1) my soil is good tight natural clay, and (2) I have a good well to provide make up water at about 25 cents per 1000 gallons. I simply threw a clay dam across a natural normally dry rain run-off creek in my back yard. I pump 2 to 10 hours a week to make up for water loss depending on weather conditions. Such favorable conditions are not everywhere available. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My ornamental South Texas pond has a natural clay lining. It has 410 > sq ft of surface area and at spillway level holds about 6000 gallons > of water maintained by pumping from a well. It’s residents > traditionally have included a few koi, goldfish, mollies, white cloud > mountain minnows, frogs, and water Moccasins. This year the > following demographic changes have occured: > 1. The last of the koi was found floating belly up last Wednesday. > This was an 18 inch survivor of a dozen 5 inch koi added in the summer > of 1995. This fish was until now a survivor who grew too large to > become a victim of the moccsins and other preditors that visit this > rurial location. The koi had been normal until last weekend when I > noticed it seemed a bit slows. Possibly the developments under 2 and > 3 below had something to do with its termination? > 2. Last month I noticed two small 4 inch perch like fish had some how > found their way to the pond. Their is no way that they could have > washed into the pond. It is near the top of a dry hill. there are no > ponds above it. I suppose they could have come in with the 50 feeder > goldfish I put in last fall or eggs might have been carried from > another pond by a bird? I had not noticed these small fish niping at > the koi but I suppose this could have been a cause of its death. > 3. The same day I found the koi dead for the first time saw 2 or 3 > quite small turtles swiming in the pond. They were only 1 1/2 to 2 > inches in diameter so it don’t seem likely they contributed. There > are turtles in my large 3/4 acre catfish pond, 500 ft below the small > pond so I guess their appearence is not too much of a mystery. > 4. I think the frog population here is much reduced from other years. > I see mostly toads generally away from the pond. This apparent > decline in the frog population makes me wonder if it is a part of the > trend being reported accross the country? > Harold Arnold > http://lonestar.texas.net/~hhullar5
Please tell me how to build me a pond .My wife wants one but I have no idea how to build it. Thank you, Myrum Abel – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My ornamental South Texas pond has a natural clay lining. It has 410 > sq ft of surface area and at spillway level holds about 6000 gallons > of water maintained by pumping from a well. It’s residents > traditionally have included a few koi, goldfish, mollies, white cloud > mountain minnows, frogs, and water Moccasins. This year the > following demographic changes have occured: > 1. The last of the koi was found floating belly up last Wednesday. > This was an 18 inch survivor of a dozen 5 inch koi added in the summer > of 1995. This fish was until now a survivor who grew too large to > become a victim of the moccsins and other preditors that visit this > rurial location. The koi had been normal until last weekend when I > noticed it seemed a bit slows. Possibly the developments under 2 and > 3 below had something to do with its termination? > 2. Last month I noticed two small 4 inch perch like fish had some how > found their way to the pond. Their is no way that they could have > washed into the pond. It is near the top of a dry hill. there are no > ponds above it. I suppose they could have come in with the 50 feeder > goldfish I put in last fall or eggs might have been carried from > another pond by a bird? I had not noticed these small fish niping at > the koi but I suppose this could have been a cause of its death. > 3. The same day I found the koi dead for the first time saw 2 or 3 > quite small turtles swiming in the pond. They were only 1 1/2 to 2 > inches in diameter so it don’t seem likely they contributed. There > are turtles in my large 3/4 acre catfish pond, 500 ft below the small > pond so I guess their appearence is not too much of a mystery. > 4. I think the frog population here is much reduced from other years. > I see mostly toads generally away from the pond. This apparent > decline in the frog population makes me wonder if it is a part of the > trend being reported accross the country? > Harold Arnold > http://lonestar.texas.net/~hhullar5
>My ornamental South Texas pond… >I think the frog population here is much reduced from other years.
Frog population varies with the insect population. La Nina is implicated in this year’s drought in the southwest and east coast, including south and west Texas. In contrast, the last two El Nino years were much wetter than average. For an overview and weekly updates on the current drought, see NOAA Climate Prediction Center http://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/index_frame.html Select "Climate Monitoring", "USA", "Drought Severity Index" – Rod
My ornamental South Texas pond has a natural clay lining. It has 410 sq ft of surface area and at spillway level holds about 6000 gallons of water maintained by pumping from a well. It’s residents traditionally have included a few koi, goldfish, mollies, white cloud mountain minnows, frogs, and water Moccasins. This year the following demographic changes have occured: 1. The last of the koi was found floating belly up last Wednesday. This was an 18 inch survivor of a dozen 5 inch koi added in the summer of 1995. This fish was until now a survivor who grew too large to become a victim of the moccsins and other preditors that visit this rurial location. The koi had been normal until last weekend when I noticed it seemed a bit slows. Possibly the developments under 2 and 3 below had something to do with its termination? 2. Last month I noticed two small 4 inch perch like fish had some how found their way to the pond. Their is no way that they could have washed into the pond. It is near the top of a dry hill. there are no ponds above it. I suppose they could have come in with the 50 feeder goldfish I put in last fall or eggs might have been carried from another pond by a bird? I had not noticed these small fish niping at the koi but I suppose this could have been a cause of its death. 3. The same day I found the koi dead for the first time saw 2 or 3 quite small turtles swiming in the pond. They were only 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter so it don’t seem likely they contributed. There are turtles in my large 3/4 acre catfish pond, 500 ft below the small pond so I guess their appearence is not too much of a mystery. 4. I think the frog population here is much reduced from other years. I see mostly toads generally away from the pond. This apparent decline in the frog population makes me wonder if it is a part of the trend being reported accross the country? Harold Arnold http://lonestar.texas.net/~hhullar5
snip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> After all of this, we will still have school sponsered gangs, wearing > their colors, running around screaming "we are the best, because we go > to, (this or that), high school". They will still get special attention > from "educators" who are compelled to re-live their youth through the > lives of their favorite students. > As long as any colors are favored in any school, there will be many more > tragic acts of violence and rebelion. > I was listening to the Principal of Columbine High School today on CNN, > spouting the same inane crap, that every principal spouts in every > public high school, in every county or parish in the country. > "Our high school is special because we are a family, we really strive, > bla bla bla" > The only thing that makes Columbine High School in Littleton Colorado > special, is that they had a huge massacre in their halls and classrooms. > This massacre killed, maimed, and will torture it’s students, their > faculity, and the rest of the United States for years and years to come. > xxxxxxx > Well, Thats an interesting theory. > You think school colors are to blame? > Can you elaborate on this? > 29 > xxxx
Colors are what ever a gang uniform happens to be, it could be the Blue and White letter jackets of Columbine High School, the blue handkerchiefs of the Crypts, the red worn by the Bloods, or the Bandito’s patch on a leather jacket. It might also be, in some folks minds, a three piece suit worn by up and coming executives, or the two piece suits the CEOs get to wear. There are thousands of different gang colors, just as there are thousands of gangs. — Sir J.P.R.J. A Lord, Supreme Being and Reigning Monarch of afa-b, Debunker of the Half Baked Air Disaster Conspiracy Theorists, Archangel and Random Buggerist of the Critically Inept, A Puzzlement to the "Green Geezer" lib
>BEWARE of using treated wood for such a project as the chemicals on the >wood are nasty and can infect a splinter site. It’s best to get unfinished >wood and finish or paint it. (Similar to the expensive ones)
We have a wooden swingset with the tower. It was a gift to our children last year from their grandparents in New Mexico. My hubby worked for many years as a carpenter. So the G-parents financed it but Daddy built it. The kids really enjoy it. In warm weather, they are out there for hours! This year we are going to put sand under the tower. There is a wooden frame around the bottom of it so it is perfect for this. (And the kids are both old enough this year that they won’t be eating the sand. lol) One thing about termites etc. You need to use treated wood that is designed for outdoor use. Yes, treated wood can cause some nasty splinters. However there is a solution! If you get some of the wood sealer, like Thompson’s or whatever, coat the swing set thoroughly with that. It serves two purposes, it makes it water proof, and it seals in the chemicals that are on the wood. Also you want to make sure, before you seal the wood, that everything is sanded very well. We have not had one single splinter off of it. The kids didn’t like having to wait a day before they could play on it, to allow the sealer to dry. But they got over it. I think they like this one so much for a few reasons. 1. It’s a lot of fun to play on! 2. It was given to them by grandparents they love very much. 3. DADDY BUILT IT FOR THEM!!! My daughter especially tells her friends, "My Dad made this for me. Isn’t that cool?" That means a lot to kids. I remember the swing set/play house my dad made for me when I was a kid. I was the only one to have something like that. It meant a lot to me. If you have the ability financially and the know how to build one, I would say build one. The kit and lumber only cost about $450. If you have a tax check coming back, you might think about using that. Or if there are birthdays coming up and you need help financing the thing, ask the G-parents if they would like to pitch in so that it comes from all of you. (And that would also mean fewer toys in the house to step on. :-}) It took maybe 10 hours of my husband’s time to finish it. That includes digging the post holes. I can’t say enough nice things about ours. Ours is still standing after the bad wind storm we had (not a tornado, but straight line winds 50+ mph) that blew a neighbor’s metal swing set out of the ground (it was set in post holes filled with quik crete), across the street, and into someone else’s backyard. Luckily, it missed all the houses and cars in the area. But did take out a fence. Sorry this is long. Didn’t realize I had quite that much to say! lol Hope this helps you make your decision. My best, Sharon
The wood playsets are ususally better quality, more attractive, have many more options, and are they EVER pricey!! Our budget only allowed for a metal one, but the kids LOVE to play on it. Another option, is to get a playset kit at a large hardware store and build one yourself if your feeling crafty. The kit includes all the imformation necessary to complete the job plus odds and ends (slides, swing seats, steering wheels etc.) BEWARE of using treated wood for such a project as the chemicals on the wood are nasty and can infect a splinter site. It’s best to get unfinished wood and finish or paint it. (Similar to the expensive ones) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
>BUT kids really don’t use them enough to > warrant making a financial sacrifice to > put them in IMHO.
I must respectfully disagree with you. We have a wooden swingset with a tower and slide… designed and built by my carpenter husband for a total of $450. It is one of the best "investments" we ever made. During nice weather, the neighborhood kids are out there ALL DAY long. We have enough spaces for four pieces of equipment. Right now there are three swings and a set of rings. The tower has a ramp and cargo net on which to climb. The kids eat lunch on the tower, use it as a space ship, boat, house, base for tag, etc etc etc. They love to swing and play on the rings. We’ve invented a game called "mission impossible" where a kid attempts to get from one side of the swing set to the other without touching the ground once. It’s so funny to watch the kids making the attempt. They leap from swing to swing, grab onto the chains and pull themselves across, etc. Sometimes the kids rearrange the swing set-up to make mission impossible more challenging. The kids also have swinging contests to see who can get the highest the fastest. On some days, I tack old sheets onto the wooden sides of the tower. The sheets hang down to make the walls of a "room" below the tower which becomes a club house or turns the tower into a 2 story playhouse. The kids then drag our play kitchen equipment underneath to add to their imaginative play. There is more… but you get the point. I see our swingset as a very useful piece of equipment that also happens to stimulate the kids imaginations. For the number of hours each day our swingset is used, I think it was a bargain. ~Jan
> The first thing that comes to mind is that the metal ones rust after one or two > seasons of being out in the rain and snow….
Not my experience at all. We got a set from Sears. It lasted 8 years through rain and snow. When we moved we left it behind. There was minimal rust, although we did have to replace the plastic swing seats once.
> It is nice to have wood — but there are so many other things with > as much more more developmental play value that I would think twice > if money is tight.
There is also the risk of splinters after a few years. OTOH, wood stays cooler in the summer if it is in the direct sun. I don;t know if wood swingsets get termites, but our (commercially made) wooden playhouse did. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
> The first thing that comes to mind is that the metal ones rust after one or two > seasons of being out in the rain and snow….
Our kids had one that was at least 15 years old and was fine We gave it to someone else when our kids were done and it got used another 5 years without rusting apart. Of course we checked it out annually and also bought some additional stuff to hang on it when we got it. The wood is wonderful — it is aesthetically pleasing and if one has gobs of money [or can build one themselves, also not cheap] it is ideal BUT kids really don’t use them enough to warrant making a financial sacrifice to put them in IMHO. You can build a playhouse for far less if that it the attraction and most towns have a few playgrounds with super equipment. It is nice to have wood — but there are so many other things with as much more more developmental play value that I would think twice if money is tight. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > I have been looking into swingsets for my daughter. I would like some > pros and cons on the wood swingsets and the metal ones. I’ve been > looking into the wood ones but they are a little pricey. You can get a > super large metal one for the same price as the cheapest wood one! The > thing I like the most about the wooden ones is the little club area > around the slides. Very cool. Was wondering what your experiences > are….. > Thanks, > lcroft
The first thing that comes to mind is that the metal ones rust after one or two seasons of being out in the rain and snow…. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi all, > I have been looking into swingsets for my daughter. I would like some > pros and cons on the wood swingsets and the metal ones. I’ve been > looking into the wood ones but they are a little pricey. You can get a > super large metal one for the same price as the cheapest wood one! The > thing I like the most about the wooden ones is the little club area > around the slides. Very cool. Was wondering what your experiences > are….. > Thanks, > lcroft
Hi all, I have been looking into swingsets for my daughter. I would like some pros and cons on the wood swingsets and the metal ones. I’ve been looking into the wood ones but they are a little pricey. You can get a super large metal one for the same price as the cheapest wood one! The thing I like the most about the wooden ones is the little club area around the slides. Very cool. Was wondering what your experiences are….. Thanks, lcroft
Hi Does anybody know the equations to manufacture an efficient vortex filter. I’d like to calculate the most efficient flow rate if the diameter is 1 meter (3.3 feet). Jim
>Hi >Does anybody know the equations to manufacture an efficient vortex filter. >I’d like to calculate the most efficient flow rate if the diameter is 1 >meter (3.3 feet). >Jim
Jim, I am using a commercial vortex (not home made). The vortex is 107 cm in diameter and 1 m deep. The vortex works real well at flow rates up to 140 liters per minute but is less efficient above that rate. At 280 liters per minute it becomes ineffective. The reason for the ineffectiveness is the high velocity at which the water enters the vortex at 280 liters per minute (the diameter of the intake pipe is only 4 inches). If your flow rate into the vortex exceeds 140 liters per minute make sure your intake pipe diameter is greater than 4 inches. To accommodate a flow of 280 liters per minute the intake pipe diameter should be 6 inches or more. The rule is, if the water rotation in the vortex is slower more solids will settle out. The vortex can’t rotate too slow. Therefore, the intake pipe diameter should be as big as feasible. One more word of caution: To minimize turbulence the intake pipe must be perfectly horizontal and straight with no bends for a minimum length of 10 pipe diameters. Hope this will help with your design….. Jerry
Jerry, thanks for the information. I’m sending this to this newsgroup because my server can’t find yours. And I always get a mailing error. I think I’m using the same vortex as you. I’d already bought one, but I wanted to make a more efficient one. I think my flow rate is to high, and the vortex is to short. I think my pond could use a second vortex. If you got any other information about other filters (flow rate for bioconverter?,…), it would mean a lot to me. Jim
Could some oldie explain these to a newbie? Thanks, Harriett
> Could some oldie explain these to a newbie? > Thanks, > Harriett
a cyclone effect filter water is spun around from middle debris settles to bottom and outlet is at top of funnel shaped container pushing cleaner water. they start at $500.00 lousy ascii art <water out >water in spinning around sides settling area <drain — Ken Arnold, KenCo Fish & Supplies Pond and Aquarium fish, Shipping plants/fish etc. a specialty Imported & domestic Koi,Goldfish,Orandas, Tropicals,exotics, Piranhas etc.
I am planning on using a 55 gallon drum is the same manner as a cone shaped filter as Ken spoke about. I plan on putting a 45 deg pvc ell on the inlet to make the water circulate like a funnel would do. I have not done this and wonder if anyone thinks this would work. My outlet is also going to be at the top. Robert – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Could some oldie explain these to a newbie? > Thanks, > Harriett > a cyclone effect filter > water is spun around from middle debris settles to bottom > and outlet is at top of funnel shaped container pushing > cleaner water. > they start at $500.00 > lousy ascii art > <water out > > >water in spinning around sides > > > settling area > > <drain > — > Ken Arnold, > KenCo Fish & Supplies Pond and Aquarium fish, > Shipping plants/fish etc. a specialty > Imported & domestic Koi,Goldfish,Orandas, > Tropicals,exotics, Piranhas etc.
>I am planning on using a 55 gallon drum is the same manner as a cone >shaped filter as Ken spoke about. I plan on putting a 45 deg pvc ell on >the inlet to make the water circulate like a funnel would do. I have >not done this and wonder if anyone thinks this would work. My outlet is >also going to be at the top.
That’s what we did/have, but I wanted a safer stoppage of the sediment so several inches from the bottom of the barrel is a layer of scrunched screening. Oh, the muck we get when I clean that prefilter is nothing short of amazing. ;o) ~Keep ‘em Wet!~ jan/Tri-Cities WA Zone 7 Remove Z to e-mail See my ponds: http://home.earthlink.net/~alanjordan1/jjspond/index.html
> >I am planning on using a 55 gallon drum is the same manner as a cone >shaped filter as Ken spoke about. I plan on putting a 45 deg pvc ell on >the inlet to make the water circulate like a funnel would do. I have >not done this and wonder if anyone thinks this would work. My outlet is >also going to be at the top. > That’s what we did/have, but I wanted a safer stoppage of the sediment > so several inches from the bottom of the barrel is a layer of > scrunched screening. Oh, the muck we get when I clean that prefilter > is nothing short of amazing. ;o)
I think I need one of these vortex things but not a $500 one. Could I take a round garbage can and cut three holes in it–one in the middle to stick the hose from the pump in at an angle so it swooshes around the sides, one at the bottom to let the (hopefully) accumulated goop drain out from time to time, and one at the top for the (hopefully clean) water to go into my upper pond? Is the scrunched up screen to keep the goop from getting into the outlet? And would this work? Right now my pond looks sort of like The Big Muddy. Harriett
> I think I need one of these vortex things but not a $500 one.
I didnt buy one either > Could I take a round garbage can and cut three holes in it–one in the middle > to stick the hose from the pump in at an angle so it swooshes around the > sides, one at the bottom to let the (hopefully) accumulated goop drain out > from time to time, and one at the top for the (hopefully clean) water to go > into my upper pond? Is the scrunched up screen to keep the goop from getting > into the outlet?
that will work but make sure its round without any ribs,they make them like that also.ribs will cause turbulance the inlet should cut into the side so it pumps against the sidewall like this _o not this -o the screen sounds like a dam? effect to hold the crud. > And would this work? Right now my pond looks sort of like The Big Muddy. > Harriett
– Ken Arnold, KenCo Fish & Supplies Pond and Aquarium fish, Shipping plants/fish etc. a specialty Imported & domestic Koi,Goldfish,Orandas, Tropicals,exotics, Piranhas etc.
> Could some oldie explain these to a newbie?
Thanks to Ken and others in this group, I now have a vague idea of how a vortex filter works and how to build one. But before I go shopping for round garbage cans, I need to understand why my water is so murky to begin with. My 1000 gal pond has what I hoped would be a combination bio/veggie filter–a long narrow shallow 200 gal pond with a couple of inches of pea gravel on the bottom planted with more than 100 tape grass plants. So far no suspended algae but I only filled it about a month ago. A week after I filled it a thunderstorm sent a deluge down my downspout and washed in a LOT of dirt and peat from the bog edging. After hastily digging a trench, I scooped what I could off the top and vacuumed the bottom with a shop vac. In three days the rest had settled and the water was clear to the bottom again. But within a week it was all murky again and hasn’t gotten any better. I think the bioload must have increased because I added nine small goldfish and probably fed them too much, and the tape grass is producing rosettes of vigorous new leaves but the original leaves are dying. Could this increased bioload be the cause of my problem? I made an intake filter out of stuff from Walmart–the pump (700 gph Supreme Pondmaster) sits in a top compartment and pulls the water through blanket batting in a bottom compartment. It catches a lot of silt but doesn’t make a noticible difference. Fish seem healthy. Sorry for the long post but I’m in a tremendous funk trying to decide what to do. Harriett
> >I am planning on using a 55 gallon drum is the same manner as a cone >shaped filter as Ken spoke about. I plan on putting a 45 deg pvc ell > on >the inlet to make the water circulate like a funnel would do. I have >not done this and wonder if anyone thinks this would work. My outlet > is >also going to be at the top.
That sounds Ok. You do need a cone at the bottom ( compete with waste drain) to collect the muck that drops down into it. Ensure that the water enters the vortex tangentially at the top of the cone/bottom of the vertical section of the vortex. My guess is that your 55 gallon container would have a diameter of about 24 inches and thus be good for flows of max 1000 gph. or so. Larger flow rates need wider vortexes. BTW I got a 36 inch diameter four feet high vortex , complete with fittings, valve etc. from CDP plastics for, from memory, about UKP 130, quite a lot better than the 500 $ mentioned earlier. Works well but I think I actualy collect more gunk from the settlement voids under my filter bays than from the vortex – water always crystal with no suspended particles. > That’s what we did/have, but I wanted a safer stoppage of the sediment > so several inches from the bottom of the barrel is a layer of > scrunched screening. Oh, the muck we get when I clean that prefilter > is nothing short of amazing. ;o)
A properly functioning vortex should not need any mechanical screening. In fact anything that impedes the water flow will reduce the vortex effectiveness. You are trying to produce _slowly_ rotating water with linear flow, it is essential to avoid any obstructions that cause eddies and break up this linear flow.
I noticed in your post the ‘deluge from your downspout". Be careful of having a downspout feed into a pond of any kind. If you have a asphalt shingle roof, (probably the most common), debris from the shingles can wash down and into your pond. Most asphalt roofs only last on average 15-20 years. Part of the wear on the roof is from asphalt/stone chips/and other binders being washed out by rains. If peat washed into the pond, yes, you probably drastically increased the bio load on the pond. Also, depending of the make-up of the peat, some peats can be very acidic, and may have lowered the pH and altered other chemistries of the pond. I beleive there are other here in the newsgroup that can much better explain the chemistry effects. My guess is that the added organic matter is causing an algae bloom since your tape grass also seems to be doing quite well. This is causing your water to turn murky. But with all the peat debris you have a lot of tannic acid in the pond, maybe causing a brownish tint to your water inside of the green of an algae bloom. Why the original tape grass leaves are dying? No guess on this except that everything has a time and maybe it’s their time and is just coincidence???? Anyway.. some guesses for you.. Craig
>> That’s what we did/have, but I wanted a safer stoppage of the sediment > so several inches from the bottom of the barrel is a layer of > scrunched screening. Oh, the muck we get when I clean that prefilter > is nothing short of amazing. ;o) >Rob Smith replied: >A properly functioning vortex should not need any mechanical screening. >In fact anything that impedes the water flow will reduce the vortex >effectiveness. You are trying to produce _slowly_ rotating water with >linear flow, it is essential to avoid any obstructions that cause eddies >and break up this linear flow.
That I understand, but I can’t say DH would have had a properly functioning vortex anyway. After what you wrote to Harriett I think I did the right thing. Our barrels have a 20" diameter with ~1600 gph flow, too fast. With the screening the muck still gets caught at the bottom, unfortunately one has to clean the screening when getting rid of the muck at the bottom. Small price for $15 barrel, and I only have to do it once a month or less. ;o) ~Keep ‘em Wet!~ jan/Tri-Cities WA Zone 7 Remove Z to e-mail See my ponds: http://home.earthlink.net/~alanjordan1/jjspond/index.html
Hi Does anybody know the equations to manufacture an efficient vortex filter. I’d like to calculate the most efficient flow rate if the diameter is 1 meter (3.3 feet). Jim
>Hi >Does anybody know the equations to manufacture an efficient vortex filter. >I’d like to calculate the most efficient flow rate if the diameter is 1 >meter (3.3 feet). >Jim
Jim, I am using a commercial vortex (not home made). The vortex is 107 cm in diameter and 1 m deep. The vortex works real well at flow rates up to 140 liters per minute but is less efficient above that rate. At 280 liters per minute it becomes ineffective. The reason for the ineffectiveness is the high velocity at which the water enters the vortex at 280 liters per minute (the diameter of the intake pipe is only 4 inches). If your flow rate into the vortex exceeds 140 liters per minute make sure your intake pipe diameter is greater than 4 inches. To accommodate a flow of 280 liters per minute the intake pipe diameter should be 6 inches or more. The rule is, if the water rotation in the vortex is slower more solids will settle out. The vortex can’t rotate too slow. Therefore, the intake pipe diameter should be as big as feasible. One more word of caution: To minimize turbulence the intake pipe must be perfectly horizontal and straight with no bends for a minimum length of 10 pipe diameters. Hope this will help with your design….. Jerry
Jerry, thanks for the information. I’m sending this to this newsgroup because my server can’t find yours. And I always get a mailing error. I think I’m using the same vortex as you. I’d already bought one, but I wanted to make a more efficient one. I think my flow rate is to high, and the vortex is to short. I think my pond could use a second vortex. If you got any other information about other filters (flow rate for bioconverter?,…), it would mean a lot to me. Jim
Could some oldie explain these to a newbie? Thanks, Harriett
> Could some oldie explain these to a newbie? > Thanks, > Harriett
a cyclone effect filter water is spun around from middle debris settles to bottom and outlet is at top of funnel shaped container pushing cleaner water. they start at $500.00 lousy ascii art <water out >water in spinning around sides settling area <drain — Ken Arnold, KenCo Fish & Supplies Pond and Aquarium fish, Shipping plants/fish etc. a specialty Imported & domestic Koi,Goldfish,Orandas, Tropicals,exotics, Piranhas etc.
I am planning on using a 55 gallon drum is the same manner as a cone shaped filter as Ken spoke about. I plan on putting a 45 deg pvc ell on the inlet to make the water circulate like a funnel would do. I have not done this and wonder if anyone thinks this would work. My outlet is also going to be at the top. Robert – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Could some oldie explain these to a newbie? > Thanks, > Harriett > a cyclone effect filter > water is spun around from middle debris settles to bottom > and outlet is at top of funnel shaped container pushing > cleaner water. > they start at $500.00 > lousy ascii art > <water out > > >water in spinning around sides > > > settling area > > <drain > — > Ken Arnold, > KenCo Fish & Supplies Pond and Aquarium fish, > Shipping plants/fish etc. a specialty > Imported & domestic Koi,Goldfish,Orandas, > Tropicals,exotics, Piranhas etc.
>I am planning on using a 55 gallon drum is the same manner as a cone >shaped filter as Ken spoke about. I plan on putting a 45 deg pvc ell on >the inlet to make the water circulate like a funnel would do. I have >not done this and wonder if anyone thinks this would work. My outlet is >also going to be at the top.
That’s what we did/have, but I wanted a safer stoppage of the sediment so several inches from the bottom of the barrel is a layer of scrunched screening. Oh, the muck we get when I clean that prefilter is nothing short of amazing. ;o) ~Keep ‘em Wet!~ jan/Tri-Cities WA Zone 7 Remove Z to e-mail See my ponds: http://home.earthlink.net/~alanjordan1/jjspond/index.html
> >I am planning on using a 55 gallon drum is the same manner as a cone >shaped filter as Ken spoke about. I plan on putting a 45 deg pvc ell on >the inlet to make the water circulate like a funnel would do. I have >not done this and wonder if anyone thinks this would work. My outlet is >also going to be at the top. > That’s what we did/have, but I wanted a safer stoppage of the sediment > so several inches from the bottom of the barrel is a layer of > scrunched screening. Oh, the muck we get when I clean that prefilter > is nothing short of amazing. ;o)
I think I need one of these vortex things but not a $500 one. Could I take a round garbage can and cut three holes in it–one in the middle to stick the hose from the pump in at an angle so it swooshes around the sides, one at the bottom to let the (hopefully) accumulated goop drain out from time to time, and one at the top for the (hopefully clean) water to go into my upper pond? Is the scrunched up screen to keep the goop from getting into the outlet? And would this work? Right now my pond looks sort of like The Big Muddy. Harriett
> I think I need one of these vortex things but not a $500 one.
I didnt buy one either > Could I take a round garbage can and cut three holes in it–one in the middle > to stick the hose from the pump in at an angle so it swooshes around the > sides, one at the bottom to let the (hopefully) accumulated goop drain out > from time to time, and one at the top for the (hopefully clean) water to go > into my upper pond? Is the scrunched up screen to keep the goop from getting > into the outlet?
that will work but make sure its round without any ribs,they make them like that also.ribs will cause turbulance the inlet should cut into the side so it pumps against the sidewall like this _o not this -o the screen sounds like a dam? effect to hold the crud. > And would this work? Right now my pond looks sort of like The Big Muddy. > Harriett
– Ken Arnold, KenCo Fish & Supplies Pond and Aquarium fish, Shipping plants/fish etc. a specialty Imported & domestic Koi,Goldfish,Orandas, Tropicals,exotics, Piranhas etc.
> Could some oldie explain these to a newbie?
Thanks to Ken and others in this group, I now have a vague idea of how a vortex filter works and how to build one. But before I go shopping for round garbage cans, I need to understand why my water is so murky to begin with. My 1000 gal pond has what I hoped would be a combination bio/veggie filter–a long narrow shallow 200 gal pond with a couple of inches of pea gravel on the bottom planted with more than 100 tape grass plants. So far no suspended algae but I only filled it about a month ago. A week after I filled it a thunderstorm sent a deluge down my downspout and washed in a LOT of dirt and peat from the bog edging. After hastily digging a trench, I scooped what I could off the top and vacuumed the bottom with a shop vac. In three days the rest had settled and the water was clear to the bottom again. But within a week it was all murky again and hasn’t gotten any better. I think the bioload must have increased because I added nine small goldfish and probably fed them too much, and the tape grass is producing rosettes of vigorous new leaves but the original leaves are dying. Could this increased bioload be the cause of my problem? I made an intake filter out of stuff from Walmart–the pump (700 gph Supreme Pondmaster) sits in a top compartment and pulls the water through blanket batting in a bottom compartment. It catches a lot of silt but doesn’t make a noticible difference. Fish seem healthy. Sorry for the long post but I’m in a tremendous funk trying to decide what to do. Harriett
> >I am planning on using a 55 gallon drum is the same manner as a cone >shaped filter as Ken spoke about. I plan on putting a 45 deg pvc ell > on >the inlet to make the water circulate like a funnel would do. I have >not done this and wonder if anyone thinks this would work. My outlet > is >also going to be at the top.
That sounds Ok. You do need a cone at the bottom ( compete with waste drain) to collect the muck that drops down into it. Ensure that the water enters the vortex tangentially at the top of the cone/bottom of the vertical section of the vortex. My guess is that your 55 gallon container would have a diameter of about 24 inches and thus be good for flows of max 1000 gph. or so. Larger flow rates need wider vortexes. BTW I got a 36 inch diameter four feet high vortex , complete with fittings, valve etc. from CDP plastics for, from memory, about UKP 130, quite a lot better than the 500 $ mentioned earlier. Works well but I think I actualy collect more gunk from the settlement voids under my filter bays than from the vortex – water always crystal with no suspended particles. > That’s what we did/have, but I wanted a safer stoppage of the sediment > so several inches from the bottom of the barrel is a layer of > scrunched screening. Oh, the muck we get when I clean that prefilter > is nothing short of amazing. ;o)
A properly functioning vortex should not need any mechanical screening. In fact anything that impedes the water flow will reduce the vortex effectiveness. You are trying to produce _slowly_ rotating water with linear flow, it is essential to avoid any obstructions that cause eddies and break up this linear flow.
I noticed in your post the ‘deluge from your downspout". Be careful of having a downspout feed into a pond of any kind. If you have a asphalt shingle roof, (probably the most common), debris from the shingles can wash down and into your pond. Most asphalt roofs only last on average 15-20 years. Part of the wear on the roof is from asphalt/stone chips/and other binders being washed out by rains. If peat washed into the pond, yes, you probably drastically increased the bio load on the pond. Also, depending of the make-up of the peat, some peats can be very acidic, and may have lowered the pH and altered other chemistries of the pond. I beleive there are other here in the newsgroup that can much better explain the chemistry effects. My guess is that the added organic matter is causing an algae bloom since your tape grass also seems to be doing quite well. This is causing your water to turn murky. But with all the peat debris you have a lot of tannic acid in the pond, maybe causing a brownish tint to your water inside of the green of an algae bloom. Why the original tape grass leaves are dying? No guess on this except that everything has a time and maybe it’s their time and is just coincidence???? Anyway.. some guesses for you.. Craig
>> That’s what we did/have, but I wanted a safer stoppage of the sediment > so several inches from the bottom of the barrel is a layer of > scrunched screening. Oh, the muck we get when I clean that prefilter > is nothing short of amazing. ;o) >Rob Smith replied: >A properly functioning vortex should not need any mechanical screening. >In fact anything that impedes the water flow will reduce the vortex >effectiveness. You are trying to produce _slowly_ rotating water with >linear flow, it is essential to avoid any obstructions that cause eddies >and break up this linear flow.
That I understand, but I can’t say DH would have had a properly functioning vortex anyway. After what you wrote to Harriett I think I did the right thing. Our barrels have a 20" diameter with ~1600 gph flow, too fast. With the screening the muck still gets caught at the bottom, unfortunately one has to clean the screening when getting rid of the muck at the bottom. Small price for $15 barrel, and I only have to do it once a month or less. ;o) ~Keep ‘em Wet!~ jan/Tri-Cities WA Zone 7 Remove Z to e-mail See my ponds: http://home.earthlink.net/~alanjordan1/jjspond/index.html
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->To the group: >IMHO, public schools are not the best place for my children. I am also >considering homeschooling; however, we have excellent private schools in > the >area. I have been very impressed with two of them and am seriously > considering >those as well. Any ideas or insights on making the decision? >Mary > ******I would 100% encourage you to homeschool. If you have the desire, you > can do it! I am currently homeschooling my daughter and we love it! Children > have such a willingness to learn that is sometimes squashed when in a group > setting. My daughter is interested in becoming a surgeon. We are able to > learn so much information while studying this field. By the way she’s only > 4. For an example of a few lessons related to being a Dr. > #1 perfect way to teach children basic sanitation…washing hands, blowing > noses properly…washing equiptment, etc. > #2 math..how many times is the heart beating per 10 seconds? how would we > make that 60 seconds? How much medice should the patient receive? let’s > measure that amount. > #3 Time to write down the medical history…let’s chart the temperature and > see how it looks charted by day on a weekly graph. > #4 let’s tell the night physician how to keep the patient on the road to > recovery. > etc etc…that would be theme teaching…well, you can tell i’m > enthusiastic..If you ever want more information, i will help you if i can. > cindy
That is an excellent way to teach. We are homeschooling my 10 yr. old and she is very proficient with hand tools. She helps me with building extensions, home repair etc., and learns how to calculate angles, measurement etc. We teach her ethics, politics, debate, dance, drama or rather she teaches us those subjects!! My eldest learnt how to build using first hand tools, then power tools when she was 11. She taught herself to read and write, and when she entered High School two years ago, she is now 16, (she wants to go to college,) she reached grade level academics within 3 weeks much to our relief! Now she is an honors student and frankly bored with the rather elementary teaching that she is receiving. We are looking for a school where she will be more challenged. I personally would have prefered that she would have stayed with homeschooling as her health has suffered from the stress demands that going to public school has presented. Rayner —
>To the group: >IMHO, public schools are not the best place for my children. I am also >considering homeschooling; however, we have excellent private schools in the >area. I have been very impressed with two of them and am seriously considering >those as well. Any ideas or insights on making the decision? >Mary
******I would 100% encourage you to homeschool. If you have the desire, you can do it! I am currently homeschooling my daughter and we love it! Children have such a willingness to learn that is sometimes squashed when in a group setting. My daughter is interested in becoming a surgeon. We are able to learn so much information while studying this field. By the way she’s only 4. For an example of a few lessons related to being a Dr. #1 perfect way to teach children basic sanitation…washing hands, blowing noses properly…washing equiptment, etc. #2 math..how many times is the heart beating per 10 seconds? how would we make that 60 seconds? How much medice should the patient receive? let’s measure that amount. #3 Time to write down the medical history…let’s chart the temperature and see how it looks charted by day on a weekly graph. #4 let’s tell the night physician how to keep the patient on the road to recovery. etc etc…that would be theme teaching…well, you can tell i’m enthusiastic..If you ever want more information, i will help you if i can. cindy
I am home schooling my children. I doubt i can be any help because my oldest is in kindergarten. However, there ia a wonderful homeschool mailing list cindy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I would like to know if anyone is homeschooling. I would like to share >info. I am currently homeschooling my 10 year old daughter. >Hope to hear from you soon! >Kory
>To the group: >IMHO, public schools are not the best place for my children. I am also >considering homeschooling; however, we have excellent private schools in the >area. I have been very impressed with two of them and am seriously considering >those as well. Any ideas or insights on making the decision?
I would pick a larger school. I went to a school where my graduating class was 9. I didn’t like it much, especially since there weren’t enough people to warrent buying full chem labs, biology dissection experiments, etc. Z