Hi everyone, I am looking for information on building a custom bathtub. Reference material, design tips, etc. I’m willing to buy a book if necessary but would rather have a net source or personal correspondence if available. My goal is to build a deep & wide tub where my length is restricted to 5′. No jets, just a soaking tub. Thanks in advance scotto
>I am looking for information on building a custom bathtub. Reference … >My goal is to build a deep & wide tub where my length is restricted to 5′.
My best guess would be to look at working with fiberglass… get the sheets and the resin…. build a supporting framework and drape the material…. I’d also fill the voids with expanding foam for insulation (hot baths stay hot!) and strength. Of course, i’ve never done any of this, so my advice is theoretical. — be safe, flip ^___^ ^.^/ ==u==
>I am looking for information on building a custom bathtub. Reference > … >My goal is to build a deep & wide tub where my length is restricted to 5′. > My best guess would be to look at working with fiberglass… get the > sheets and the resin…. build a supporting framework and drape the > material….
For glass/epoxy, you’ll get better advice over in rec.boats.building (seriously), since what you’d be making is really an inside-out boat. Fiberglass and epoxy is one way to go, but you need to put it _on_ something. For example, you build up the shape using wood, fairing compound, etc, then lay the glass/epoxy over that. You could _really_ make a statement with a cedar-strip ‘vessel’, sheathed in glass/epoxy. The glass disappears once it’s wetted out with epoxy. I guess the other approach would be to build it up out of mortar and a waterproof membrane, really no different than a custom shower stall, just with a very high ’sill’, and enough strength to hold a lot of water. You’d use tiles to cover all or part of the surface. Small tiles would allow some curvature… Not that I’ve ever done this, of course. -Chris.
There’s a book called "How to build your own boat" or something like that gives fairly extensive instructions on working with fiberglass. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I am looking for information on building a custom bathtub. Reference > … >My goal is to build a deep & wide tub where my length is restricted to 5′. > My best guess would be to look at working with fiberglass… get the > sheets and the resin…. build a supporting framework and drape the > material…. I’d also fill the voids with expanding foam for > insulation (hot baths stay hot!) and strength. > Of course, i’ve never done any of this, so my advice is theoretical. > — > be safe, > flip > ^___^ > ^.^/ > ==u==
– Dan Hicks Even God lends a hand to honest boldness. –Unknown
A friend of mine took me to visit his friend’s business; they make ‘cultured marble’ bathtubs. Basically the process involves building a large lined mold out if wood, and then using a mixture of powdered limestone (literally the same stuff you put on your lawn!) and epoxy resin to form the tub. Colorants are added, and given that the limestone/epoxy mixture is rather viscous, they can easily create the swirls and mottling as seen in real marble. A fiberglass tub would also work well. I would think that for any of these solutions a fair amount of experimentation and specific skills/processing are needed to produce a professional-looking result. A tile tub would probably be the easiest to build, though flexing of the tub walls would be a concern. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > There’s a book called "How to build your own boat" or something like > that gives fairly extensive instructions on working with fiberglass. > >I am looking for information on building a custom bathtub. Reference > … > >My goal is to build a deep & wide tub where my length is restricted to 5′. > My best guess would be to look at working with fiberglass… get the > sheets and the resin…. build a supporting framework and drape the > material…. I’d also fill the voids with expanding foam for > insulation (hot baths stay hot!) and strength. > Of course, i’ve never done any of this, so my advice is theoretical. > — > be safe, > flip > ^___^ > ^.^/ > ==u==
> > >I’ve found these LimeLights to be use-less myself. They > >don’t put out enough light to see much by. > They’re useful as marker lights: to find the switchplate, > find a corner, not walk into a wall, etc. > After your eyes are dark-adapted, they cast enough light to get you > down the hall to the bathroom without bumping into anything. But if > they were any brighter they’d keep a lot of people away–not to > mention costing more and using more juice.
I would not recommend these night lights for older adults because as with aging sensitivity to these wavelengths dimishes greatly. If they made them in a red wavelength, they would be preferable for older adults.
> I’ve found these LimeLights to be use-less myself. They > don’t put out enough light to see much by. > Does ANYONE make a good LED night lite yet?
You want a good LED night lite? Got some $$$$? Check out: http://www.sharperimage.com/us/en/catalog/productview.jhtml?sku=SI497P LT I’m not affiliated with the vendor, just amused by the product. Sheri
> >I’ve found these LimeLights to be use-less myself. They >don’t put out enough light to see much by. > They’re useful as marker lights: to find the switchplate, > find a corner, not walk into a wall, etc.
After your eyes are dark-adapted, they cast enough light to get you down the hall to the bathroom without bumping into anything. But if they were any brighter they’d keep a lot of people away–not to mention costing more and using more juice. — Kirk Experience is the best teacher… But her pop quizzes can be mighty tough.
> Just moved into a resale home. The previous owners left a night light > behind which is quite thin and square and plugs into an outlet. I don’t > see a brand name on the light. I am in Canada and would like to > purchase more. Have people seen these?
It’s probably one of the "Indiglo" nightlights… see http://www.limelite.com/indiglo.htm (Note that I know nothing about that site — it’s the only one I could find with a picture of the product) — You will need to edit the return email address in order to reply. The following is intended to catch spammers. Please ignore.
> These are electroluminescent nightlights. The main brands are Indiglo >and Limelight,
I’ve found these LimeLights to be use-less myself. They don’t put out enough light to see much by. Does ANYONE make a good LED night lite yet?
>> These are electroluminescent nightlights. >I’ve found these LimeLights to be use-less myself. They >don’t put out enough light to see much by.
They’re useful as marker lights: to find the switchplate, find a corner, not walk into a wall, etc. >Does ANYONE make a good LED night lite yet?
I’m unsure it’s easy to do. Electroluminescent lights naturally work at 120 volts AC. LEDs need current limiting and work at low voltage. — Jeffrey Jonas The original Dr. JCL and Mr .hide
>>Just moved into a resale home. The previous owners left a night light behind >which is quite thin and square and plugs into an outlet.
We’re all assuming it’s a green or blue glow: that’s electroluminescent. Orange glow would be neon (you didn’t say *HOW* thin). The most interesting consumer variations of electroluminescent lighting I’ve found a) an electroluminescent light built into a switchplate, the contacts rest on the switch so there’s no wiring! The ENTIRE switchplate glows green! (unsure of the mfgr) b) http://www.limelite.com/indiglo.htm I have the clock nite lite: a clever combination! (the clock is battery powered just like a wrist-watch) c) I think BJ’s warehouse sold packages of 4-5 thin E-L nite lights in colored see-thru plastic cases, hinting at i-macs! d) Electroluminescent lighting is very old and mature technology, so non-brand-names are fine too. I found some nice ones on ebay: 12 green triangles for US $6.00. e) Target sold some large colored E-L nite lites by GE, as well as battery operated flicker patterns to compete with Flixx and other blinkey things. f) GE used to sell thin 3-way power cubes with a hinged plug so they went flat against the wall, with an E-L panel on one side so it’s a nite lite too without taking away a plug! (others had neon inside). >Electroluminescent nightlights are about as efficient as lesser >incandescents, but rank as good as good incandescents and halogens >when you consider night vision. Fluorescents would be better still if >they came in such a low wattage
Dollar stores in NJ are getting Chinese fluorescent nite lites. They look like a tiny picture frame, the light behind the transparency. 2, perhaps 4 watts. They scare me: I opened one up and the circuit board is NOT insulated, easy to short onto the plug contacts. They have NO SAFETY RATINGS: not UL or any European safety approvals. PLEASE AVOID THEM! >but unless you know where to get all parts and how to build an >LED nightlight yourself you are better off with electroluminescent than >LED.
Agreed, the power supply seems to dominate the size and cost. > Do note that electroluminescent does not last forever, but more like > usually a few years.
My parents had a large round Sylvania "panelescent" E-L nite light going for perhaps 10 years. The case went brittle and cracked, else it might still be going. > Most likely they fade with a half life of a few >years while often developing some spots on the light-emitting area that >fade faster.
It probably got dimmer with ago, but didn’t blemish! The older electroluminescent panels were on metal plates, but new ones are thin and flexible, apparently sealed in plastic using an aluminum-foil-like backing. That means they’re thinner and moisture resistant. (there’s even a model kit with an E-L panel that can be cut as needed, but I heard that moisture kills it after a while). >http://www.misty.com/~don/nitelite.html >http://www.misty.com/~don/oddbulb.html >http://www.misty.com/~don/light.html >http://www.misty.com/~don/index.html
Those are most excellect discussions and comparisons of the technology! — Jeffrey Jonas The original Dr. JCL and Mr .hide
Just moved into a resale home. The previous owners left a night light behind which is quite thin and square and plugs into an outlet. I don’t see a brand name on the light. I am in Canada and would like to purchase more. Have people seen these? TIA, Doug
>Just moved into a resale home. The previous owners left a night light behind >which is quite thin and square and plugs into an outlet. I don’t see a brand >name on the light. I am in Canada and would like to purchase more. Have >people seen these?
These are electroluminescent nightlights. The main brands are Indiglo and Limelight, and you can usually see at least one at KMart, WalMart, Sears and home centers. Radio Shack, Rite Aid and Eckerds usually has at least one of these brands or something similar, but at higher prices. Drug Emporium ranks good for prices of light bulbs, almost among those of the good places above and far below the convenience store prices of Rite Aid and Eckerds and (not quite as bad) CVS, but I don’t remember finding any electroluminescent nightlights there. Electroluminescent nightlights are about as efficient as lesser incandescents, but rank as good as good incandescents and halogens when you consider night vision. Fluorescents would be better still if they came in such a low wattage, but they don’t. LEDs do come in such a low wattage and after losses in necessary additional parts the best are somewhere between electroluminescent and fluorescent (even for night vision), but unless you know where to get all parts and how to build an LED nightlight yourself you are better off with electroluminescent than LED. Do note that electroluminescent does not last forever, but more like usually a few years. Most likely they fade with a half life of a few years while often developing some spots on the light-emitting area that fade faster. http://www.misty.com/~don/nitelite.html http://www.misty.com/~don/oddbulb.html http://www.misty.com/~don/light.html http://www.misty.com/~don/index.html
The brittish Special Forces (SAS) in the jungle and deeply wooded areas, sleep in cool structures called A-Frames, Ive seen them and pictures etc.. im wondering if someone can direct me to a web page or send me information / instructions on how to build them, they fit my camping needs perfectly…. Thanks Me
> The brittish Special Forces (SAS) in the jungle and deeply wooded areas, > sleep in cool structures called A-Frames, Ive seen them and pictures etc.. > im wondering if someone can direct me to a web page or send me information / > instructions on how to build them, they fit my camping needs perfectly…. > Thanks > Me
The first thing I would do is a www search for the british army or even their SAS and see if they have contacts. Every army has manuals for things like that and perhaps they would tell you who sells it. I cannot imagine it is classified or a recent innovation considering how long the English maintained colonies in tropical areas.
There was another display at the show I went to that had these light weight fake rocks- they looked very real from the top. I brazenly turned one over and saw that it was formed from that spray insulation stuff with some sort of sand coating. I must try this myself at home. — Kellie Always be kind to animals, Morning, noon and night: For animals have feelings too, And furthermore, they bite. - John Gardner
I am adding to my pond again. I put a 40 gallon preformed pond in my stream path on my waterfall. It comes right to the edge of the large pond. I have a 18" drop for the waterfall now and want to add a river rock back drop. Any suggestions on how to build a rock backdrop. Steve Johnson http://lornet.com/~alside/pond.htm Littleton, CO – Zone 5
> I am adding to my pond again. I put a 40 gallon preformed pond in my stream > path on my waterfall. It comes right to the edge of the large pond. I have a > 18" drop for the waterfall now and want to add a river rock back drop. > Any suggestions on how to build a rock backdrop.
While this will not help you much, your post reminded me of what i saw at this year’s (and last year’s) Home and Yard show. This company manufactures large chunks of very realistic-looking rocks. Their display had water flowing from the top rock, four feet straight down. A waterfall, with a little cave behind it is the result. This display consisted of four large rocks, or more likely boulders, which are waterproof. They deliver, setup, and completely get your waterfall going — cost $4700. They have to put the boulders together with adhesive, drill the holes thru the rock for plumbing, etc. Is a cool idea for folks with more $$$ than me!
> I am adding to my pond again. I put a 40 gallon preformed pond in my stream > path on my waterfall. It comes right to the edge of the large pond. I have a > 18" drop for the waterfall now and want to add a river rock back drop. > Any suggestions on how to build a rock backdrop.
Not realy sure what you’re talking about, but there is a company here that makes these rock formations by first creating a frame out of wire then spraying on concrete, then coming in with a chain saw and cutting it to shape! Saw it at Neil Sperry’s All Chemical Home & Garden Show last weekend.– Kellie Always be kind to animals, Morning, noon and night: For animals have feelings too, And furthermore, they bite. - John Gardner
There was another display at the show I went to that had these light weight fake rocks- they looked very real from the top. I brazenly turned one over and saw that it was formed from that spray insulation stuff with some sort of sand coating. I must try this myself at home. — Kellie Always be kind to animals, Morning, noon and night: For animals have feelings too, And furthermore, they bite. - John Gardner
I am adding to my pond again. I put a 40 gallon preformed pond in my stream path on my waterfall. It comes right to the edge of the large pond. I have a 18" drop for the waterfall now and want to add a river rock back drop. Any suggestions on how to build a rock backdrop. Steve Johnson http://lornet.com/~alside/pond.htm Littleton, CO – Zone 5
> I am adding to my pond again. I put a 40 gallon preformed pond in my stream > path on my waterfall. It comes right to the edge of the large pond. I have a > 18" drop for the waterfall now and want to add a river rock back drop. > Any suggestions on how to build a rock backdrop.
While this will not help you much, your post reminded me of what i saw at this year’s (and last year’s) Home and Yard show. This company manufactures large chunks of very realistic-looking rocks. Their display had water flowing from the top rock, four feet straight down. A waterfall, with a little cave behind it is the result. This display consisted of four large rocks, or more likely boulders, which are waterproof. They deliver, setup, and completely get your waterfall going — cost $4700. They have to put the boulders together with adhesive, drill the holes thru the rock for plumbing, etc. Is a cool idea for folks with more $$$ than me!
> I am adding to my pond again. I put a 40 gallon preformed pond in my stream > path on my waterfall. It comes right to the edge of the large pond. I have a > 18" drop for the waterfall now and want to add a river rock back drop. > Any suggestions on how to build a rock backdrop.
Not realy sure what you’re talking about, but there is a company here that makes these rock formations by first creating a frame out of wire then spraying on concrete, then coming in with a chain saw and cutting it to shape! Saw it at Neil Sperry’s All Chemical Home & Garden Show last weekend.– Kellie Always be kind to animals, Morning, noon and night: For animals have feelings too, And furthermore, they bite. - John Gardner
Frame materials: Titanium is the most flexible frame material, and is very light. It’s best uses are in ridgid, or front suspension bikes. Aluminum is alot stiffer, and is pretty light. It’s less expensive than Ti. Works best as Full suspension, or front suspension. Steel is a flex somewhere in between Ti and Alum.It can be made into some pretty light tubing. It’s the least expensive, but usually is heavier than others.Works well in all applications. Fattrax
STEVE WROTE Buy based on quality of frame, and frame builders rep, not according to hype. I couldn’t agree more! Well said!
> Frame materials: > Titanium is the most flexible frame material, and is very light. It’s > best uses are in ridgid, or front suspension bikes. > Aluminum is alot stiffer, and is pretty light. It’s less expensive than > Ti. Works best as Full suspension, or front suspension. > Steel is a flex somewhere in between Ti and Alum.It can be made into some > pretty light tubing. It’s the least expensive, but usually is heavier > than others.Works well in all applications. > Fattrax
Heeeere we go! I guess it is time for the monthly debate…
yup…good steel frames will be as corrosion-resistant as aluminum…I have a DEEP 3" scratch over 3 years old……NO rust. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Here-Here. >Steel is real. It is responsive, built like a tank, and corrosion-resistan t. >Proud owner of a Yo Eddy, In my opion the best made bike available. >Corrosion-resistant? >– >==>====>====>====>====>====>====>====>====>====>====>====>====>====>====>= = >Don Finan "A really hoopy frood who knows >==<====<====<====<====<====<====<====<====<====<====<====<====<====<====<= =
>>Steel is real. It is responsive, built like a tank, and corrosion-resistant. >Proud owner of a Yo Eddy, In my opion the best made bike available. >Corrosion-resistant?
Donald: I am also the proud owner of two Yo Eddys. While it is true that steel is suseptible to rust, the craftspeople at Fat City take measures to protect their beautiful steel frames. For example: All welding holes are sealed before the frame is painted, and the insides of all waterbottle or pulley holes are similarly sealed. New Fat City frames not only have a sealed seat tube (at B/B), but also use a rubber seal at the post to discourage water from getting in there. So basically if the paint holds up and you occasionally check that the seat tube doesn’t get wet, the frame is quite corrosion-resistent. I agree with Jeff #1: Yo Eddy is [one of] the best bike[s] available, period. As an aside, my next frame may be a Kona Hei Hei… -Jeff Dantzler —
If anybody out there knows the advantages of an Aluminum frame verses a titanium frame please post them. I know there is a large price difference but I would like to know the characteristic differences between the two frames. (i.e. Does one ride better than the other?)
> If anybody out there knows the advantages of an Aluminum frame verses > a titanium frame please post them. I know there is a large price > difference but I would like to know the characteristic differences > between the two frames. (i.e. Does one ride better than the other?)
do some searches in dejanews on old postings. ride a few bikes. read the FAQ generally, if you don’t already know the answer to your question, you won’t really be able to tell the difference. some aluminum frames ride better than some titanium frames some titanium frames ride better than some aluminum frames some steel frames ride better than either personally, my next new frame will be steel- durable, readily available, many highly skilled craftsmen who know how to build beautiful frames with it for far less than titanium. I’ve ridden aluminum frames for years- trek, klein, cannondale. — | alan boucek —- berkeley california
> If anybody out there knows the advantages of an Aluminum frame verses > a titanium frame please post them. I know there is a large price > difference but I would like to know the characteristic differences > between the two frames. (i.e. Does one ride better than the other?)
No. Yes. And this oughta squeeze some worthless threads out of here.
Here-Here. Steel is real. It is responsive, built like a tank, and corrosion-resistant. Proud owner of a Yo Eddy, In my opion the best made bike available. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If anybody out there knows the advantages of an Aluminum frame verses > a titanium frame please post them. I know there is a large price > difference but I would like to know the characteristic differences > between the two frames. (i.e. Does one ride better than the other?) >do some searches in dejanews on old postings. ride a few bikes. read the >FAQ >generally, if you don’t already know the answer to your question, you >won’t really be able to tell the difference. >some aluminum frames ride better than some titanium frames >some titanium frames ride better than some aluminum frames >some steel frames ride better than either >personally, my next new frame will be steel- durable, readily available, >many highly skilled craftsmen who know how to build beautiful frames >with it for far less than titanium. >I’ve ridden aluminum frames for years- trek, klein, cannondale. >– >| alan boucek —- berkeley california
> If anybody out there knows the advantages of an Aluminum frame verses > a titanium frame please post them. I know there is a large price > difference but I would like to know the characteristic differences > between the two frames. (i.e. Does one ride better than the other?)
No, no no no no…. each material has certain characteristics. What really matters is the construction of the frame. For example, the "stiff, harsh ride" offered by aluminum frames (according to most magazines) is pretty tough to spot on an old Alan aluminum frame, which rides like a wet noodle due to its small diameter tubing. Also, the eter tubing. Also, the "magic ride of titanium" is pretty tough to spot on a crappy old Titan from the ’70’s! A cheap steel frame that is well-built can ride better than a poorly built frame that is made of the highest quality materials. A crappy frame is a crappy frame no matter what it is made from! Also, another myth is that materials like carbon fiber are super light and really stiff. Well, I was sort of amazed to see that there is less than 1/4 pound difference between an old Peugeot I have with REALLY old Shimano 105 and 600 parts and a brand new Trek OCLV road frame (5500) and new Ultegra components! Pretty interesting, as far as I am concerned! Buy a frame based on the reputation of the builder, not the material. Buy based on feel, not hype! Steve
> generally, if you don’t already know the answer to your question, you > won’t really be able to tell the difference. > some aluminum frames ride better than some titanium frames > some titanium frames ride better than some aluminum frames > some steel frames ride better than either > personally, my next new frame will be steel- durable, readily available, > many highly skilled craftsmen who know how to build beautiful frames > with it for far less than titanium. > I’ve ridden aluminum frames for years- trek, klein, cannondale.
Likewise, ally is nice but I’m getting more bike for bucks with the shift back to steel and in this case the overall weight is less. Maybe due to lighter components but to me the frame feels lighter than my ally one.
>Here-Here. >Steel is real. It is responsive, built like a tank, and corrosion-resistant. >Proud owner of a Yo Eddy, In my opion the best made bike available.
Corrosion-resistant? — ==>====>====>====>====>====>====>====>====>====>====>====>====>====>====>== Don Finan "A really hoopy frood who knows ==<====<====<====<====<====<====<====<====<====<====<====<====<====<====<==
I am interested in buying one of those gadgets you attach to the rear hub of your bike to attach your dog to they have a spring so that the dog (supposedly) can’t pull you over. It sounds like a great way to exercise my very active German Sheperd. I would like to hear from anyone who has tried this before I invest in one.
Ditto I am interested in one of these gadgest as well…. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am interested in buying one of those gadgets you attach to the rear hub > of your bike to attach your dog to they have a spring so that the dog > (supposedly) can’t pull you over. It sounds like a great way to exercise my > very active German Sheperd. I would like to hear from anyone who has tried > this before I invest in one.
>I am interested in buying one of those gadgets you attach to the rear hub >of your bike to attach your dog to they have a spring so that the dog >(supposedly) can’t pull you over. It sounds like a great way to exercise my >very active German Sheperd. I would like to hear from anyone who has tried >this before I invest in one.
It works GREAT! It doesn’t attach to your hub, it attaches to your frame, just under your seat (with epoxy and a clamp). But it works GREAT! In fact, it works so good, after using it for several months, you won’t really need it anymore (or only in areas with traffic, etc). The dog will still run at your side, even when it’s not "attached" to your bike (this takes just a little training). The spring and the quick release feature make it a very SAFE way to exercise your dog and even get a little exercise yourself. I HIGHLY recommend it! — Dogman E-mail address rot13 encoded to foil advertising spam Joey "Dogs" Vaffanculo Contract Locating and Communication Company http://www.i1.net/~dogman
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I am interested in buying one of those gadgets you attach to the rear hub >of your bike to attach your dog to they have a spring so that the dog >(supposedly) can’t pull you over. It sounds like a great way to exercise my >very active German Sheperd. I would like to hear from anyone who has tried >this before I invest in one. > It works GREAT! It doesn’t attach to your hub, it attaches to your > frame, just under your seat (with epoxy and a clamp). But it works > GREAT! > In fact, it works so good, after using it for several months, you > won’t really need it anymore (or only in areas with traffic, etc). The > dog will still run at your side, even when it’s not "attached" to your > bike (this takes just a little training). > The spring and the quick release feature make it a very SAFE way to > exercise your dog and even get a little exercise yourself. > I HIGHLY recommend it! > — > Dogman
I had plans on how to build my own, but Im wondering now if I shoudln’t just buy one. Where and how much?? Terri
I have used it for years. Works great with my Siberians. I ordered mine from a catalog from Wholesale Pet USA 1-800-4-PET-USA. It is called the Springer and it cost around $50.00 plus shipping. Sue – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am interested in buying one of those gadgets you attach to the rear hub > of your bike to attach your dog to they have a spring so that the dog > (supposedly) can’t pull you over. It sounds like a great way to exercise my > very active German Sheperd. I would like to hear from anyone who has tried > this before I invest in one.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >I am interested in buying one of those gadgets you attach to the rear hub > >of your bike to attach your dog to they have a spring so that the dog > >(supposedly) can’t pull you over. > It works GREAT! It doesn’t attach to your hub, it attaches to your > frame, just under your seat (with epoxy and a clamp). But it works > GREAT! > In fact, it works so good, after using it for several months, you > won’t really need it anymore (or only in areas with traffic, etc). The > dog will still run at your side, even when it’s not "attached" to your > bike (this takes just a little training). > The spring and the quick release feature make it a very SAFE way to > exercise your dog and even get a little exercise yourself. > I HIGHLY recommend it! > — > Dogman
This sounds wonderful. I have a male Am-Staff Terrier who is very strong. I use a muzzle Haltie when I walk him because I couldn’t hold him with just a collar if he decided to hare off after a squirrel (his one vice). Do you think it would work with him? Could I (and Should I) use the Haltie with it? Jean
[...] > The spring and the quick release feature make it a very SAFE way to > exercise your dog and even get a little exercise yourself. > I HIGHLY recommend it! > — > Dogman >I had plans on how to build my own, but Im wondering now if I shoudln’t >just buy one. Where and how much?? >Terri
Terri, I’m as mechanically inclined as the next person and I couldn’t build this thing for $50, which is what it usually costs. However, I do notice that R.C. Steele has a sale on them (Springers) right now, for $39.98. They have a $50.00 minimum order, but their number is 1-800-872-3773. — Dogman E-mail address rot13 encoded to foil advertising spam Joey "Dogs" Vaffanculo Contract Locating and Communication Company http://www.i1.net/~dogman
Oh me too please!! My pup who is only 7 months and 55 pounds nearly caused my death the other day on my bike. Before I order from the number posted, could anyone who has one please swear allegiance to the fact that she won’t be able to pull my bike over, and more importantly HOW it is that she can’t pull me over? Thanks very much in advance, Karen Karen Goh University of British Columbia Vancouver, Canada
: I am interested in buying one of those gadgets you attach to the rear hub : of your bike to attach your dog to they have a spring so that the dog : (supposedly) can’t pull you over. It sounds like a great way to exercise my : very active German Sheperd. I would like to hear from anyone who has tried : this before I invest in one. I have one called the "K-9 Cruiser," which attaches to the rear hub. It’s basically just a steel bar that has a short (18 inch?) leash attached to the end. The bar extends to the back of the bike, and curves slightly so the tip of it is directly behind the rear wheel. When the dog is put on the leash, he can come up on either side of the bike (I like to keep him on the right side because, if you ride like you’re supposed to, on the right side of the road, it keeps the dog on the curb side of the street and out of the traffic). He comes up to just behind the pedal. My Border Collies *love* it! When I get my bike out, they start howling and barking like sled dogs getting ready to go. My only worry is that my neighbors will think my dogs are being abused from all the howling! I think, though, that I like the Springer design better. While the weight of my body on the rear wheel keeps the bike from jumping around (like when one of my dogs sees a cat on the other side of the street), I think the Springer has a better shock absorbing system. And the Springer is more easily available (I got the K-9 Cruiser at a dog show, and don’t have any ordering info on it). They cost about the same. April with Levi and Caper, the Border Collie Hurricanes
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > [...] >> The spring and the quick release feature make it a very SAFE way to >> exercise your dog and even get a little exercise yourself. >> I HIGHLY recommend it! >> — >> Dogman >I had plans on how to build my own, but Im wondering now if I shoudln’t >just buy one. Where and how much?? >Terri > Terri, I’m as mechanically inclined as the next person and I couldn’t > build this thing for $50, which is what it usually costs. > However, I do notice that R.C. Steele has a sale on them (Springers) > right now, for $39.98. They have a $50.00 minimum order, but their > number is 1-800-872-3773. > — > Dogman > E-mail address rot13 encoded to foil advertising spam > Joey "Dogs" Vaffanculo Contract Locating and Communication Company > http://www.i1.net/~dogman
Domo Arigato Goziamas! Thanks very much. Terri
One caution…. I know a woman who used a bike leash with her dog. One day while she was riding her bike and her dog was attached to the bike leash, some idiot came around a parked car and ran into her dog when she was waiting to turn right. He was not expecting to see the dog attached to the bike… he thought it was just a bicycle. Unfortunately, the dog did not survive the accident. I think it is a great idea, but because we have so many careless drivers out there, I myself wouldn’t use it on city roads.
Hi, all: Just something else for you to look into before you buy one of these things. I was making inquiries about them locally (some stores are carrying them, some not) and was told by one store, anyway, that they had been told by our municipality that these devices were not allowed to be used in city parks. I called the city and understood that indeed, this was the case, although I did not get clear on whether they just had a bylaw against these devices specifically, or whether there was a general bylaw about dogs being under control which they felt was not satisfied by use of these devices (I was not looking to buy one immediately anyway, but was inquiring more just from interest). Either way, I think it does not make a lot of sense, as from what I have heard of these things, the dog is certainly more under control than people riding a bike holding a dog on a regular leash, or letting a dog on a leash pull them on roller blades or a skateboard, which I have also seen. Anyway, you might just want to make a call to your municipality (or whoever controls the areas you would normally be riding) if you have any concerns. Roxanne
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >I am interested in buying one of those gadgets you attach to the rear hub > >of your bike to attach your dog to they have a spring so that the dog > >(supposedly) can’t pull you over. It sounds like a great way to exercise my > >very active German Sheperd. I would like to hear from anyone who has tried > >this before I invest in one. > It works GREAT! It doesn’t attach to your hub, it attaches to your > frame, just under your seat (with epoxy and a clamp). But it works > GREAT! > In fact, it works so good, after using it for several months, you > won’t really need it anymore (or only in areas with traffic, etc). The > dog will still run at your side, even when it’s not "attached" to your > bike (this takes just a little training). > The spring and the quick release feature make it a very SAFE way to > exercise your dog and even get a little exercise yourself. > I HIGHLY recommend it! > — > Dogman > I had plans on how to build my own, but Im wondering now if I shoudln’t > just buy one. Where and how much?? > Terri >Just a word of warning. I haven’t actually tried one of these bike
leashes but as I am currently training my Weimaraner for a 20 km endurance test while I ride a bike I am on many occasions nearly pulled from my bike when dogs rush out of driveways at us as we ride past. I live in the country so thankfully the roads are fairly quiet but I have enough trouble holding on to my dog when such incidents occur I would hate to think what would happen if he were attached to my bike, he would most certainly pull me and the bike over.
>Oh me too please!! My pup who is only 7 months and 55 pounds nearly >caused my death the other day on my bike. Before I order from the >number posted, could anyone who has one please swear allegiance to the >fact that she won’t be able to pull my bike over, and more importantly >HOW it is that she can’t pull me over? Thanks very much in advance, >Karen
Karen, if you get the "Springer," I guarantee that it won’t pull you over. The breakaway "lead" (that comes with it) is attached to a large and very strong SPRING that will absorb all the shock of the dog pulling (which he soon learns not to do anyway) on the lead. The spring is attached to a prong that is attached to the vertical frame tube of your bike (just under the seat) using epoxy and a bolted clamp. Make sure you ask for the "Springer" model. At R.C. Steele, it’s on sale for $39.98 (minimum order $50), and their number is 1-800-872-3773. But you can get one everywhere dog things are sold for around $50. If you DO ever get pulled over, just call my lawyer and ask for the Settlement Department. The number is 1-202-WHACKYU. Ask for "Joey." Heh-heh-heh. — Dogman E-mail address rot13 encoded to foil advertising spam Joey "Dogs" Vaffanculo Contract Locating and Communication Company http://www.i1.net/~dogman
[...] >Domo Arigato Goziamas! Thanks very much. >Terri
Honda Toyota Nissan Mitsubishi! Ciao! — Dogman E-mail address rot13 encoded to foil advertising spam Joey "Dogs" Vaffanculo Contract Locating and Communication Company http://www.i1.net/~dogman
This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Oh me too please!! My pup who is only 7 months and 55 pounds nearly > caused my death the other day on my bike. Before I order from the > number posted, could anyone who has one please swear allegiance to the > fact that she won’t be able to pull my bike over, and more importantly > HOW it is that she can’t pull me over? Thanks very much in advance,
Karen, I don’t know what kind of pup you have, so I can’t make a guess at what its adult size will be. However, it seems like you should be safe from being pulled over, based on the experiences of some friends who regularly ride with several Bouviers (singly, or in pairs) who are 90-100+ lbs and exceptionally muscular and strong. If these Bouvs can’t knock over/pull down an average-sized adult male human, a 55-lb puppy probably can’t do the same with you. Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; name="marie.sig" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="marie.sig" Template Software, Dulles, VA, USA (703) 318-1000 Visit Template Software at http://www.template.com
The first year I had my doberman I bought one of these super-duper bike leashes that I paid a lot of money for. BIG mistake! First off, my dog, even though I took a lot of time to work with him, he is scared of it. Sometimes I think he’s smarter then me. He gives me this look like, "You want me to do WHAT!" If you really want your dog to run with you as you bike, and you have a safe place to do it, think about an electronic collar. I started my dog on a long lead and worked with him for little over 12 weeks until he knew sit, down, come, and close. Once he knew these commands I moved him to the electronic collar. I only have had to use the collar to correct him over the past 3 years less then 8 times. Now, when he sees me heading for the box that has his collar he gets all excited and can’t wait to have it put on. He knows we are going somewhere that he can run or play. This includes following me on a bike. I have found that this works best for us. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> One caution…. > I know a woman who used a bike leash with her dog. One day while > she was riding her bike and her dog was attached to the bike leash, some > idiot came around a parked car and ran into her dog when she was waiting > to turn right. He was not expecting to see the dog attached to the > bike… he thought it was just a bicycle. Unfortunately, the dog did not > survive the accident. > I think it is a great idea, but because we have so many careless > drivers out there, I myself wouldn’t use it on city roads.
>The first year I had my doberman I bought one of these super-duper bike >leashes that I paid a lot of money for.
$50 is a lot of money? > BIG mistake! First off, my dog, >even though I took a lot of time to work with him, he is scared of it. >Sometimes I think he’s smarter then me. He gives me this look like, "You >want me to do WHAT!"
Then you just didn’t introduce your dog to the bike rig properly. It’s EASY. I’ve NEVER had a dog who didn’t LOVE it from the git go. >If you really want your dog to run with you as you bike, and you have a >safe place to do it, think about an electronic collar.
OIC…$50 is too expensive for a bike lead, but anywhere from $175 to $750 for an e-collar is what…peanuts? Geeeez. And you think that most people are going to take the 2-3 day training seminar and read the books, tapes that are absolutely necessary (actually they is the bare minimum of what really should be done) to PROPERLY use an e-collar just to take their dogs for a run? Geeeez. > I started my dog on >a long lead and worked with him for little over 12 weeks until he knew sit, >down, come, and close.
So you had to spend 12 WEEKS "conditioning" your dog to the e-collar before you could ever START to use it to train your dog to run at your side? Hmmmmn? It takes all of 1-2 minutes to "condition" most ANY dog to using the Springer! NOTE: Anyone out there who is now serious about getting an E-COLLAR just to train your dog to run at your side when you’re riding your bike: fogetaboutit. Yes, FORGET ABOUT IT. To do that is like buying a surplus nuclear warhead from Russia just to rid your yard of fleas! Just don’t do it, eh? Just say no. E-collars are VERY difficult to learn how to use properly and can also be VERY expensive. Springer leads are WONDERFUL devices and EASY to use and take no more than 5 minutes to teach your dog how to run at your side. Yes, even YOUR dog. So, forget about the e-collar, eh? Just don’t listen to this person. She’s WRONG. Period. — Dogman E-mail address rot13 encoded to foil advertising spam Joey "Dogs" Vaffanculo Contract Locating and Communication Company http://www.i1.net/~dogman NEW! NEW! See a rare photograph of Joey!
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->The first year I had my doberman I bought one of these super-duper bike >leashes that I paid a lot of money for. > $50 is a lot of money? > BIG mistake! First off, my dog, >even though I took a lot of time to work with him, he is scared of it. >Sometimes I think he’s smarter then me. He gives me this look like, "You >want me to do WHAT!" > Then you just didn’t introduce your dog to the bike rig properly. > It’s EASY. I’ve NEVER had a dog who didn’t LOVE it from the git go. >If you really want your dog to run with you as you bike, and you have a >safe place to do it, think about an electronic collar. > OIC…$50 is too expensive for a bike lead, but anywhere from $175 to > $750 for an e-collar is what…peanuts? Geeeez. > And you think that most people are going to take the 2-3 day training > seminar and read the books, tapes that are absolutely necessary > (actually they is the bare minimum of what really should be done) to > PROPERLY use an e-collar just to take their dogs for a run? Geeeez. > I started my dog on >a long lead and worked with him for little over 12 weeks until he knew sit, >down, come, and close. > So you had to spend 12 WEEKS "conditioning" your dog to the e-collar > before you could ever START to use it to train your dog to run at your > side? > Hmmmmn? It takes all of 1-2 minutes to "condition" most ANY dog to > using the Springer! > NOTE: Anyone out there who is now serious about getting an E-COLLAR > just to train your dog to run at your side when you’re riding your > bike: fogetaboutit. Yes, FORGET ABOUT IT. > To do that is like buying a surplus nuclear warhead from Russia just > to rid your yard of fleas! > Just don’t do it, eh? Just say no. E-collars are VERY difficult to > learn how to use properly and can also be VERY expensive. > Springer leads are WONDERFUL devices and EASY to use and take no more > than 5 minutes to teach your dog how to run at your side. Yes, even > YOUR dog. > So, forget about the e-collar, eh? Just don’t listen to this person. > She’s WRONG. Period. > — > Dogman > E-mail address rot13 encoded to foil advertising spam > Joey "Dogs" Vaffanculo Contract Locating and Communication Company > http://www.i1.net/~dogman
I have to agree with Dogman 100%. I am not against e collars, in the hands of the INFORMED and if they are used for certain CONDITIONS. I get so sick of people wanting them to train for things that might take a little work and think the e collar is a magic solution. Life is NOT a 20 minute sitcom, you have to actually put some effort into some things! Id use a leash to run the dog with my bike and I before Id even think of an e collar, (in fact I wouldnt think of one in the first place.) Terri
Does anyone know where we could get hold of a "Springer" bike leash in Australia? They sound like a great idea. We’re currently training our dogs for an endurance trial but have them running along beside us with a lead looped over our hand. We have two boisterous Dalmatians and occassionally they pull us off our bikes when they veer out to the side or stop!! The Springer sounds like just what we need. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > : I am interested in buying one of those gadgets you attach to the rear hub > : of your bike to attach your dog to they have a spring so that the dog > : (supposedly) can’t pull you over. It sounds like a great way to exercise my > : very active German Sheperd. I would like to hear from anyone who has tried > : this before I invest in one.
> NOTE: Anyone out there who is now serious about getting an E-COLLAR > just to train your dog to run at your side when you’re riding your > bike: fogetaboutit. Yes, FORGET ABOUT IT. > To do that is like buying a surplus nuclear warhead from Russia just > to rid your yard of fleas!
Very funny! However, I’m not sure the fleas in my neck of the woods would be too impressed. I intend to buy one of those bike rigs, but I have to fix up an old bike first. I really don’t want to epoxy some piece to junk to the seat tube of my $3000 Kestrel/Campy candy-apple-red dream machine. Steve Barnard
Bike leashes sound great, but think about the fact that your dog will be inhaling the exhaust fumes of all the passing cars as you travel if you are using roads. Running along with a bike is also hard work- if your dog is not used to it, start off slow, and be sure to check his paws afterwards for wear and tear. There sure is a lot of junk lying around on the streets these days! Ruth Mays
>I am interested in buying one of those gadgets you attach to the rear hub >of your bike to attach your dog to they have a spring so that the dog >(supposedly) can’t pull you over. It sounds like a great way to exercise my >very active German Sheperd. I would like to hear from anyone who has tried >this before I invest in one.
I use a product called the K9 Cruiser. Love it. .I run 2 dogs at once. Diane Author of "The Home-Alone Dog– How to Have a Happy Dog When You’re Hardly Ever Home", http://members.aol.com/dogalone/hadpg1.html The perfect gift for busy people who are dog-lovers
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> NOTE: Anyone out there who is now serious about getting an E-COLLAR > just to train your dog to run at your side when you’re riding your > bike: fogetaboutit. Yes, FORGET ABOUT IT. > To do that is like buying a surplus nuclear warhead from Russia just > to rid your yard of fleas! >Very funny! >However, I’m not sure the fleas in my neck of the woods would be too >impressed. >I intend to buy one of those bike rigs, but I have to fix up an old bike >first. I really don’t want to epoxy some piece to junk to the seat tube >of my $3000 Kestrel/Campy candy-apple-red dream machine.
Steve, you may be able to get by with using some rubber wrap under the clamp to keep it from loosening, but I’m not sure I’d want to try that on a $3000 BICYCLE. I remember buying in 1968 a brand new CAR, a 1969 Mustang Mach I, 427 engine, 4 speed, etc., for less than $3500. Wow. $3000 for a BICYCLE! How fast does it go, Steve? 135 mph? 140 mph? 150 mph? If it didn’t go at least 140 mph, I’d feel that spending $3000 for it was about $2750 TOO MUCH. Heh-heh-heh. — Dogman E-mail address rot13 encoded to foil advertising spam Joey "Dogs" Vaffanculo Contract Locating and Communication Company http://www.i1.net/~dogman NEW! NEW! See a rare photograph of Joey!
> > I remember buying in 1968 a brand new CAR, a 1969 Mustang Mach I, 427 > engine, 4 speed, etc., for less than $3500. Wow. $3000 for a > BICYCLE! > How fast does it go, Steve? 135 mph? 140 mph? 150 mph? > I remember the Mustang Mach I. I loved those muscle cars, like the > Camaro Z28 and the GTO.
One more thing, Dogman. Your 1968 Mustang Mach 1, in mint condition, would probably fetch about $40,000 today. Eat your heart out. In 1968 I was driving a Porsche 356/SC coupe. The Ford 427s and the Chevy 409s could blow me away at the lights, but I’d eat them alive on a slalom course. Steve Barnard
I have had good luck with the Super go bikes. One is on the cover of Mtn bike action for july 96. Solid Value. You can order the bike with eXTRa expensive or cheeper parts. —
>> not to beat on Habanero, but put a > YETI ARC next to any ti and the ti > owner will start weeping… >Would you care to share with us why?
Ok,sure… It is Easton Aluminum Custom tubing (not program or elite, but made for YETI alone) the frame weight (on my 16) is under three pounds the thing is stiff and bombproof and it is extremely responsive and fast fast fast Hey, if you dispute the claim YETI makes the best damn hardtail MTB in the world, just grab all your old MTB rags from way back when the ARC first rolled out and see what "They" think. I got my first one and it is like hardtail nirvana…
>> not to beat on Habanero, but put a > YETI ARC next to any ti and the ti > owner will start weeping… >Would you care to share with us why?
hey, it’s a preference thing, but for my riding style and build, the ARC is simply the fastest thing I ever crawled onto…
Ed, read the body….Ive edited some inconsistancies, half-truths, and total lies. As far as this post, your bike is not under $1500, so keep this stuff in the right posts. Thank You and read on… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> not to beat on Habanero, but put a >> YETI ARC next to any ti and the ti >> owner will start weeping… >Would you care to share with us why? > Ok,sure… > It is Easton Aluminum Custom tubing > (not program or elite, but made for YETI alone)
and this is supposed to be better than steel??? > the frame weight (on my 16) is under three pounds
Me, I prefer strength, responsiveness, and durablity over weight. Too many weight weenies are whittling down their bikes with utra-lightweight parts that break. A 3 lb. Al mountain bike wont last 5 years of heavy use. > the thing is stiff and bombproof
Hardly….I’ve seen 2 ’95’s broken last year. Granted, the guys were like 180 or something, and they were Hammerheads, but hardly bombproof. One guy cracked the weld under the Downtube/Headtube junction, the other cracked a seatstay weld. > and it is extremely responsive > and fast fast fast > Hey, if you dispute the claim YETI makes > the best damn hardtail MTB in the world, just > grab all your old MTB rags from way back when the > ARC first rolled out and see what "They" think.
Hmm. Let me dig into the MTB archives – mine seems to have gotten a =better= review, so that means mine is better? Give me a break. I’m not so immature as to put "my bike is the best" on a post. What are you like 12 years old? Why is it that some people have to =prove= their bike is good? Keep this garbage out of the posts. > I got my first one and it is like hardtail nirvana…
Hardtail nirvana, huh….does that involve a shotgun?? *grin*
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> >>I’m intending to buy an aluminium mtb. I’d rather not spend more than >> >>$1200, but I could stretch to $1500. >> The best bikes are made of steel…..don’t waste your time. >How shortsighted…. we all really know the best bikes are made of >titanium….. ;-) >Mark Hickey >Habanero (guess what they’re made of) Cycles > not to beat on Habanero, but put a > YETI ARC next to any ti and the ti > owner will start weeping…
As in "oh, the humanity…." ? ;-) Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles
>While I didn’t buy the bike complete, I did get a Giant 890 (the Cu-92 >frame) with a Mach 5 sx. I was able to swap alot of stuff >from my old bike, and so it only cost abt. $720.00 to finish it. It rides >very nice, is quick, responsive, climbs well and doesn’t beat you up like >a 7000 type aluminium, but is just a strong. Very well designed frame,
I’ll second this as a good choice. I rode a lot of Al bikes before I finally settled on GIANT. The bike is a by far the best ride I tested. John
You might want to check out the Performance M-006. Built by KHS, Easton ProGram frame, 217s, tie-dye spokes, white industries cranks, v-brakes, full xt. $1599 (on sale this month for 1499.). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->While I didn’t buy the bike complete, I did get a Giant 890 (the Cu-92 >frame) with a Mach 5 sx. I was able to swap alot of stuff >from my old bike, and so it only cost abt. $720.00 to finish it. It rides >very nice, is quick, responsive, climbs well and doesn’t beat you up like >a 7000 type aluminium, but is just a strong. Very well designed frame, > I’ll second this as a good choice. I rode a lot of Al bikes before I > finally settled on GIANT. The bike is a by far the best ride I > tested. > John
LOOK AT THE CANNANDALE F700 OR F1000. I THINK THEY ARE THE BEST BIKES MADE. I HAVE THE F1000.
> not to beat on Habanero, but put a > YETI ARC next to any ti and the ti > owner will start weeping…
Would you care to share with us why?
> > not to beat on Habanero, but put a > YETI ARC next to any ti and the ti > owner will start weeping… > Would you care to share with us why?
Yeah…I’d be curious to find out too. I rode a few ARCs and walked away totally unimpressed…as for aluminum IMO the Zaskar rides much better ( and is built sturdier and is cheaper ) as does the Kleins. I would rather ride any quality steel or Ti bike than a Yeti anyday… You may have a different opinion, and I respect that. This is in no way a flame, it’s just my own experience.
>> >>I’m intending to buy an aluminium mtb. I’d rather not spend more than > >>$1200, but I could stretch to $1500. > The best bikes are made of steel…..don’t waste your time. >How shortsighted…. we all really know the best bikes are made of >titanium….. ;-) >Mark Hickey >Habanero (guess what they’re made of) Cycles
not to beat on Habanero, but put a YETI ARC next to any ti and the ti owner will start weeping…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>I’m intending to buy an aluminium mtb. I’d rather not spend more than >>$1200, but I could stretch to $1500. >>I’ve been looking at two bikes, the GT Avalanche and the VooDoo Bokor >>with XT/LX components and a rigid fork (I’ll add suspension next season). >>Right now I’m leaning towards the VooDoo; I especially like the sloping >>top tube. >>Are there any killer-bikes I’ve missed? >>I appreciate all input. >>Many thanks in advance >>/Tommy >>– >>Tommy Enqvist >>http://www.nada.kth.se/~d92-ten > The trek 8500 is a killer too! I have an 8000 shx and love mine. The >8500 has better components. > The best bikes are made of steel…..don’t waste your time.
Since Trek bought Klein they reduced the prices drastically. Some of the frame is now built in Wisconsin but is still Klein in design. These bikes start at $750 and go up with better components to about $1,500. Alan Acock
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >I’m intending to buy an aluminium mtb. I’d rather not spend more than > >$1200, but I could stretch to $1500. > >I’ve been looking at two bikes, the GT Avalanche and the VooDoo Bokor > >with XT/LX components and a rigid fork (I’ll add suspension next > season). > >Right now I’m leaning towards the VooDoo; I especially like the > sloping > >top tube. > >Are there any killer-bikes I’ve missed?
While I didn’t buy the bike complete, I did get a Giant 890 (the Cu-92 frame) with a Mach 5 sx. I was able to swap alot of stuff from my old bike, and so it only cost abt. $720.00 to finish it. It rides very nice, is quick, responsive, climbs well and doesn’t beat you up like a 7000 type aluminium, but is just a strong. Very well designed frame, with a long top tube (ovalized) and huge down tube (also ovalized). The Monostay rear triangle design makes it very strong. Lifetime warranty…. I think they sell complete for abt $1,200 or so, if I remember. David L. Gillespie / / / / / / Lab: University of New Mexico ||||/ ||||/ ||||/ | FAX: Dept. of Biochemistry / / / / / / (505) 277-5389 www.unm.edu/~dgill
I recently bought a GT Avalance LE for < $1,300 and I love it. Has XT/LX with Judy XC. I highly recommend it.
> >>I’m intending to buy an aluminium mtb. I’d rather not spend more than >>$1200, but I could stretch to $1500. > The best bikes are made of steel…..don’t waste your time.
How shortsighted…. we all really know the best bikes are made of titanium….. ;-) Mark Hickey Habanero (guess what they’re made of) Cycles
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I’m intending to buy an aluminium mtb. I’d rather not spend more than >$1200, but I could stretch to $1500. >I’ve been looking at two bikes, the GT Avalanche and the VooDoo Bokor >with XT/LX components and a rigid fork (I’ll add suspension next season). >Right now I’m leaning towards the VooDoo; I especially like the sloping >top tube. >Are there any killer-bikes I’ve missed? >I appreciate all input. >Many thanks in advance >/Tommy >– >Tommy Enqvist >http://www.nada.kth.se/~d92-ten > The trek 8500 is a killer too! I have an 8000 shx and love mine. The >8500 has better components.
The best bikes are made of steel…..don’t waste your time.
Don’t miss the Gary Fisher Paragon (~$1200) and Mt. Tam (~$1500). Nill
> > >I’m intending to buy an aluminium mtb. I’d rather not spend more than >$1200, but I could stretch to $1500. > >I’ve been looking at two bikes, the GT Avalanche and the VooDoo Bokor >with XT/LX components and a rigid fork (I’ll add suspension next season). > >Right now I’m leaning towards the VooDoo; I especially like the sloping >top tube. > >Are there any killer-bikes I’ve missed? > >I appreciate all input. > >Many thanks in advance > >/Tommy I have a Cannondale F700 and it is a great bike. It has comparable components (XT/LX) as the bikes that you are talking about and it it really light. The suspension is great because you can lock it out and it comes in cool colors (bright yellow and orange). Matt
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > >I’m intending to buy an aluminium mtb. I’d rather not spend more than > >$1200, but I could stretch to $1500. > >I’ve been looking at two bikes, the GT Avalanche and the VooDoo Bokor > >with XT/LX components and a rigid fork (I’ll add suspension next > season). > >Right now I’m leaning towards the VooDoo; I especially like the > sloping > >top tube. > >Are there any killer-bikes I’ve missed? > >I appreciate all input. > >Many thanks in advance > >/Tommy > I have a Cannondale F700 and it is a great bike. It has comparable > components (XT/LX) as the bikes that you are talking about and it it > really light. The suspension is great because you can lock it out and > it comes in cool colors (bright yellow and orange). > Matt
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I’m intending to buy an aluminium mtb. I’d rather not spend more than $1200, >but I could stretch to $1500. >I’ve been looking at two bikes, the GT Avalanche and the VooDoo Bokor with >XT/LX components and a rigid fork (I’ll add suspension next season). >Right now I’m leaning towards the VooDoo; I especially like the sloping top >tube. >Are there any killer-bikes I’ve missed? >I appreciate all input. >Many thanks in advance >/Tommy >– >Tommy Enqvist >http://www.nada.kth.se/~d92-ten
– Tommy, Check out the bikes from Giant; you should be able to easily find something in your price range there. They know how to build bikes (even draw the frames for some better known brands) because they’re probably the largest frame builder in the world. I have an ATX890 which is a CU92 aluminum frame and I love it. The ATX890 has received some really good reviews in the past. Craig Gephart Giant CU92, the stuff rockets are made from! No pain… no gain; no helmet… no brain!
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I’m intending to buy an aluminium mtb. I’d rather not spend more than >$1200, but I could stretch to $1500. >I’ve been looking at two bikes, the GT Avalanche and the VooDoo Bokor >with XT/LX components and a rigid fork (I’ll add suspension next season). >Right now I’m leaning towards the VooDoo; I especially like the sloping >top tube. >Are there any killer-bikes I’ve missed? >I appreciate all input. >Many thanks in advance >/Tommy >– >Tommy Enqvist >http://www.nada.kth.se/~d92-ten
The trek 8500 is a killer too! I have an 8000 shx and love mine. The 8500 has better components.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I’m intending to buy an aluminium mtb. I’d rather not spend more than >$1200, but I could stretch to $1500. >I’ve been looking at two bikes, the GT Avalanche and the VooDoo Bokor >with XT/LX components and a rigid fork (I’ll add suspension next season). >Right now I’m leaning towards the VooDoo; I especially like the sloping >top tube. >Are there any killer-bikes I’ve missed? >I appreciate all input. >Many thanks in advance >/Tommy >– >Tommy Enqvist >http://www.nada.kth.se/~d92-ten
I was shopping for a alluminum bike a few weeks ago too! I was looking at the Specialized Stumpjumper M2FS, which was about 2100 CND. Also, I was looking at the RockyMountain Thin Air, which was about 1900 CND. The guy that wanted to sell me the Specialized told me if i hopped on the Specialized, I wouldn’t want to ride another bike and usually we would buy it… Well that’s crap. I decided to go for the Rocky Mountain Thin Air. It’s a Easton Alluminum HBO frame. Service from Rocky Mountain is great too… I heard that Rocky Mountain bikes offer more bang for the buck. Take a look at them. I love my bike. I did upgrade the forks to JudyXC’s and also to XTR shifters. Which worked out about the same price as the Specialized. Norris
>I’m intending to buy an aluminium mtb. I’d rather not spend more than >$1200, but I could stretch to $1500. >I’ve been looking at two bikes, the GT Avalanche and the VooDoo Bokor >with XT/LX components and a rigid fork (I’ll add suspension next season). >Right now I’m leaning towards the VooDoo; I especially like the sloping >top tube. >Are there any killer-bikes I’ve missed?
Chech out Cannondale Their web page is http://www.cannpndale.com they have some great bikes for $1000 to $1500 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I appreciate all input. >Many thanks in advance >/Tommy >– >Tommy Enqvist >http://www.nada.kth.se/~d92-ten
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I’m intending to buy an aluminium mtb. I’d rather not spend more than >$1200, but I could stretch to $1500. >I’ve been looking at two bikes, the GT Avalanche and the VooDoo Bokor >with XT/LX components and a rigid fork (I’ll add suspension next season). >Right now I’m leaning towards the VooDoo; I especially like the sloping >top tube. >Are there any killer-bikes I’ve missed? >I appreciate all input. >Many thanks in advance >/Tommy >– >Tommy Enqvist >http://www.nada.kth.se/~d92-ten
I would suggest you also consider the Specialized line of Aluminum bikes (dubbed A1 in the model name). Greg Landry
I’m intending to buy an aluminium mtb. I’d rather not spend more than $1200, but I could stretch to $1500. I’ve been looking at two bikes, the GT Avalanche and the VooDoo Bokor with XT/LX components and a rigid fork (I’ll add suspension next season). Right now I’m leaning towards the VooDoo; I especially like the sloping top tube. Are there any killer-bikes I’ve missed? I appreciate all input. Many thanks in advance /Tommy — Tommy Enqvist http://www.nada.kth.se/~d92-ten