> Hey Jackass, did you even bother to click on the link?
No. —
You can have growth of 8 feet, trees, hedge. Back yards are usually restricted to 6 feet. Neighbours may not be chipping in because they liked the ivy or they don’t like fences! I scoured the rich neighbourhoods and only found fences higher than six feet where there was a retaining wall (nice trick) which a fence sits on and tree, hedge over six feet. Another concerns of solid fences is that it hides criminals when they go to work!
> It’s available here:
We’re not interested. We don’t want advertising in this group, and we don’t patronize anyone who does so. —
> > I am having the 8 foot wall of ivy ripped out of my back yard, in it’s place > I wish to construct an 120 linear foot X 8′ tall Redwood fence. My neighbors > aren’t chipping in so I am not concerned with building a "good neighbor
<SNIP> Chipping in? *You’re* building a fence on *your* property and you want him to pay for it? Nice neighbor you are.
I was hoping he would build it too..
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > I am having the 8 foot wall of ivy ripped out of my back yard, in it’s > place > > I wish to construct an 120 linear foot X 8′ tall Redwood fence. My > neighbors > > aren’t chipping in so I am not concerned with building a "good neighbor > <SNIP> > Chipping in? > *You’re* building a fence on *your* property and you want him to pay for it? > Nice neighbor you are.
> We’re not interested. > We don’t want advertising in this group, and we don’t patronize anyone > who does so. > —
Hey Jackass, did you even bother to click on the link? It takes you to a response describing how to build a fence, its even pretty well written. While Lyle is a businessman, there is no sales pitch on that page, just plain ole information that many can benefit from. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >answered a very similar question a couple years ago. >It’s available here: >http://phoenixhomesinc.com/fence.htm >Best of luck, and let us know how it comes out! >– >Lyle B. Harwood, President >Phoenix Homes, Inc. >(206) 523-9500 www.phoenixhomesinc.com
>I am having the 8 foot wall of ivy ripped out of my back yard, in it’s place >I wish to construct an 120 linear foot X 8′ tall Redwood fence. My neighbors >aren’t chipping in so I am not concerned with building a "good neighbor >fence". I am going to rent a post hole auger and get a yard of concrete to >fill all the holes, what I am looking for is a good solid plan or section >detailing the boards so I can create a BOM to fax to my local lumber yard.
Here’s my stick built fence: http://www.magpie.com/house/backyard.phtml Since one of my neighbors wanted the same fence and was going to help me build it and the others were happy to see the rusted old chain link replaced, I was set in the "good neighbor" department. Estimating lumber isn’t a problem. Just calculate how much wood you need to complete a standard-length panel, post to post inclusive, then multiply by the number of panels needed. The easiest rule of thumb with estimating post lengths is that 2/3rds is visible and the remaining 1/3 is buried. I agree with Lyle’s method of setting the posts then building the panels to fit. You will almost inevitably run into buried obstructions like large tree roots and boulders that will derail plans for a symmetrical fence post width. Add 3-4" of gravel at the bottom the post holes for drainage. Insert the posts and stabilize them with cross braces. Squeeze-grip clamps work well here, not only to make subtle adjustments to the post but also to hold carpenter’s levels to the post (I used two on adjacent sides of the post). I used a dry post hole concrete mix. This is slowly dumped into the hole around the post with a spray from a hose while you mix it with a stick. With eye protection, mask and gloves it’s a good kids’ job. Build a jig to construct your panels. I used a 4×8 piece of plywood on sawhorses with cleats in one corner to ensure a square panel. I cut a few blocks for picket spacing. Because the panels are differing lengths I made pairs of spacer blocks in 1/8" increments. As I got to the last 8-10 pickets in a panel I dry fit them with the spacer blocks to get an even-looking spacing. An air framing nailer and galvanized ring shank nails are a prerequisite for a project like this. There are forty pounds of nails in this fence. I also used exterior yellow glue on each picket, applied with a small paint brush. With two people working, we were able to knock off a panel every ten minutes. Screw a temporary cleat on the bottom of one of the posts as a ledge to hold one end of the panel while you level the other. Use coated deck screws to fasten the panels to the posts. When I finished installing the fence I used a laser level to mark the post and picket tops and a circular saw to cut them flush. The scallop in my fence was made with a template: an old hula hoop that Betsy found somewhere. Then I used an orbital and belt sander to ease the edges. I waited for the PT lumber to dry out for a few months before adding a stain/sealer. I found the post caps online somewhere. Steve Manes, Brooklyn, USA www.magpie.com
> I am having the 8 foot wall of ivy ripped out of my back yard, in it’s place > I wish to construct an 120 linear foot X 8′ tall Redwood fence. My neighbors > aren’t chipping in so I am not concerned with building a "good neighbor > fence". I am going to rent a post hole auger and get a yard of concrete to > fill all the holes, what I am looking for is a good solid plan or section > detailing the boards so I can create a BOM to fax to my local lumber yard. > Any suggestions?
I don’t know how the experts feel, but I’ve been using the QuikCrete Fence Post Mix recently to set a variety of posts. The thing I like about it is that I don’t need to mix it, I just pour it dry into the hole around the post and then water the hole. It seems to do the job, without any of the mess of mixing. YMMV.
> I am having the 8 foot wall of ivy ripped out of my back yard, in it’s place > I wish to construct an 120 linear foot X 8′ tall Redwood fence. My neighbors > aren’t chipping in so I am not concerned with building a "good neighbor
Hey, did you offer them a choice? In our little town, a fence has to be built with the good side facing the neighbor. They got something right 
) BTW, your neighbor is a good buddy of mine and I just gave them 600 ivy plants to cover the new fence. While you are letting all that lumber dry, you will probably want to use RoundUp on the ivy sprouts so you get a clean start with all that expensive wood the city will make you tear down because the building code says no more than 6′ high ) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> fence". I am going to rent a post hole auger and get a yard of concrete to > fill all the holes, what I am looking for is a good solid plan or section > detailing the boards so I can create a BOM to fax to my local lumber yard. > Any suggestions? > Thanks!
> I am having the 8 foot wall of ivy ripped out of my back yard, in it’s place > I wish to construct an 120 linear foot X 8′ tall Redwood fence. My neighbors > aren’t chipping in so I am not concerned with building a "good neighbor > fence". I am going to rent a post hole auger and get a yard of concrete to > fill all the holes, what I am looking for is a good solid plan or section > detailing the boards so I can create a BOM to fax to my local lumber yard. > Any suggestions? > Thanks!
I’ve decided to use Hardiplank for my pickets instead of real wood arranged in a board-on-board style. http://www.jameshardie.com/stylescedarmill.htm Cut & pasted from a previous thread: "Be aware, this is some serious backbreaking manual labor. Rent a one man power auger, not that goofy two man wrestling match. It’s better if you have a bud with a tractor& PTO coupling and an auger attachment. That can be a bit unwieldly in an urban lot setting, though. Check the Home Depot fence area, they have a mockup by the steel posts/connector display. Use the galvanized steel fence posts, wood is a waste of money. Set the posts 3′ deep & use plenty of quickcrete. I helped a bud set posts in caliche soil… 6"diameter holes 3′ deep. Two bags of Quickcrete per hole. Gate posts got 3 bags per hole & 2 posts on the hinge side. This is a tad overkill, but the tractor & 6" auger use were free. 
I’d still do 3′ deep & 2 bags/hole, but with a smaller auger. We were building an 8′ tall fence in ground that heaves with wet & dry cycles. Are you stick building or buying prebuilt 6×8 panels? That will have a lot to do with post placement (spacing). If prebuilt, be sure to place the posts close enough to allow for panel width variation. I’d rather cut a strip off a panel than come up too short. Fences in my neck of the woods have posts set 5′ apart for an 8′ tall fence, but they are generally stick built. The fence I helped build was with prebuilt treated 6×8 panels from Lowe’s. Seams were covered with a single picket. Not the prettiest, but it was fast & most acceptable for the hood. Simpson Strong Tie make the proper connectors for use with the steel posts, both straight run & corners. I remember the straight ones being about a $1ea. You’ll also need the 1/4"x1" hexhead lag screws to attach the wood. Buy lots extra & return what you don’t need. http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors_list/PGT.html Use a post level to make sure the post is plumb before adding the ‘crete. http://shop.skyvision.com/store/media/9000034.jpg You can either strike a line on the posts to measure up from the ground to so the tops are even, or you can cut each post when you are done. We laid the posts out & evened up the ends & drew a line across them with a permanent marker. It was a little extra work to add dirt to the hole to make them even, but it was easier & safer than cutting them later, IMHO. We staked the posts using precut 2′ stakes & the straight rail connectors. Use 2 connectors, one for "x"-axis & the other for "y". They don’t have to be set perfectly, just close enough. Drive a stake in the ground a couple of feet away from the post & attach another stake to the first near the ground with a sheetrock screw so it pivots. Attach the other end to the connector with another screw. Repeat for the other axis. You’re looking for a triangular shaped bracing system. This will insure a steady post when you add the ‘crete. Before you attach the screw to the connector, make sure the post is plumb & straight in line. If I had a picture, it would replace this whole paragraph. 
As for the gate, use the gate kit from Home Depot or Lowes that utilizes the square tubing you attach wood to. Much better than stick building. http://www.gateframe.com/ " HTH
Have you called your local lumber yard for their suggestions? Jim
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am having the 8 foot wall of ivy ripped out of my back yard, in it’s place > I wish to construct an 120 linear foot X 8′ tall Redwood fence. My neighbors > aren’t chipping in so I am not concerned with building a "good neighbor > fence". I am going to rent a post hole auger and get a yard of concrete to > fill all the holes, what I am looking for is a good solid plan or section > detailing the boards so I can create a BOM to fax to my local lumber yard. > Any suggestions? > Thanks!
> I am having the 8 foot wall of ivy ripped out of my back yard, in it’s place > I wish to construct an 120 linear foot X 8′ tall Redwood fence. My neighbors > aren’t chipping in so I am not concerned with building a "good neighbor > fence". I am going to rent a post hole auger and get a yard of concrete to > fill all the holes, what I am looking for is a good solid plan or section > detailing the boards so I can create a BOM to fax to my local lumber yard. > Any suggestions? > Thanks!
Unless your neighbors tell you they want no part of your fence at the first opportunity, they’re liable under contract law for their fair portion. Check to see if 8′ is permitted in your jurisdiction – seems awfully tall. Consider pressure-treated instead of Redwood. Lasts longer. Use steel posts instead of wood. Wood shrinks and contracts allowing water into the foundation where it stays, rotting the wood. Design, if possible (and you approve of the esthetics), such that the lower fence construction consists of horizontal wood pieces instead of 8′ pickets touching the ground. The bottom is the part of the fence that rots first, so a horizontal run of 50′ is easier to replace. After buying the wood, spread it out in the garage for several weeks to let it dry. Otherwise, the pickets will shrink leaving 1/4" gap between the boards on the completed fence. Moreover, some pickets will warp/twist as they dry. These wicked pickets are easier to return to the lumber yard if you have not yet installed them!
I am having the 8 foot wall of ivy ripped out of my back yard, in it’s place I wish to construct an 120 linear foot X 8′ tall Redwood fence. My neighbors aren’t chipping in so I am not concerned with building a "good neighbor fence". I am going to rent a post hole auger and get a yard of concrete to fill all the holes, what I am looking for is a good solid plan or section detailing the boards so I can create a BOM to fax to my local lumber yard. Any suggestions? Thanks!
I built a raised planter bed in my back yard (about 20 inches tall) and I used some really nice concrete blocks made by Belgard hardscapes for the front and sides of the bed. But I need some ideas on how to build the back of the planter bed really cheap. The back is flush up against the wooden fence and will never be seen by anyone so I don’t want to use the expensive blocks for that side. I also don’t want to just pile the dirt up against the fence 20 inches high for obvious reasons. But I think it would be okay to leverage the strength of the fence posts by attaching whatever wall I build to the fence posts. So I’m looking for: – cheap – not too thick since the raised bed is already pretty skinny and I don’t want to use up more space where I could have soil. – has to be water proof since I don’t want irrigation water running through the fence and into the neighbors yard which is a bit lower than my lot. Some ideas I’ve been thinking about: – stacking up landscape timbers (spiked into the ground and attached to the existing fence posts). For water proofing, I could simply drape some thick plastic sheets over the timbers and line that with gravel so that water drains straight to the bottom and out the french drain. Also, the timbers might have to be replaced after some number of years right? – some sort of cheap brick? But that would probably involve more work than I want to invest in this wall since I have to pour the footing and stuff. There has got to be something I have not thought about since I don’t care how ugly it looks. I just need something to hold about 18" of dirt. Any ideas? Comments? Thanks, -ymaran
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house >I built a raised planter bed in my back yard (about 20 inches tall) >and I used some really nice concrete blocks made by Belgard hardscapes >for the front and sides of the bed. >But I need some ideas on how to build the back of the planter bed >really cheap. The back is flush up against the wooden fence and will >never be seen by anyone so I don’t want to use the expensive blocks >for that side. I also don’t want to just pile the dirt up against the >fence 20 inches high for obvious reasons. But I think it would be >okay to leverage the strength of the fence posts by attaching whatever >wall I build to the fence posts. >So I’m looking for: >- cheap >- not too thick since the raised bed is already pretty skinny > and I don’t want to use up more space where I could have soil. >- has to be water proof since I don’t want irrigation water running > through the fence and into the neighbors yard which is a bit lower > than my lot. >Some ideas I’ve been thinking about: >- stacking up landscape timbers (spiked into the ground and attached > to the existing fence posts). For water proofing, I could simply >drape > some thick plastic sheets over the timbers and line that with gravel > so that water drains straight to the bottom and out the french >drain. > Also, the timbers might have to be replaced after some number of > years right? >- some sort of cheap brick? But that would probably involve more work > than I want to invest in this wall since I have to pour the footing > and stuff. >There has got to be something I have not thought about since I don’t >care how ugly it looks. I just need something to hold about 18" of >dirt. Any ideas? Comments? >Thanks, >-ymaran
PT boards–A local garden center made a very nice, easy, cheap wall with 1×12s.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house >I built a raised planter bed in my back yard (about 20 inches tall) >and I used some really nice concrete blocks made by Belgard hardscapes >for the front and sides of the bed. >But I need some ideas on how to build the back of the planter bed >really cheap. The back is flush up against the wooden fence and will >never be seen by anyone so I don’t want to use the expensive blocks >for that side. I also don’t want to just pile the dirt up against the >fence 20 inches high for obvious reasons. But I think it would be >okay to leverage the strength of the fence posts by attaching whatever >wall I build to the fence posts. >So I’m looking for: >- cheap >- not too thick since the raised bed is already pretty skinny > and I don’t want to use up more space where I could have soil. >- has to be water proof since I don’t want irrigation water running > through the fence and into the neighbors yard which is a bit lower > than my lot. >Some ideas I’ve been thinking about: >- stacking up landscape timbers (spiked into the ground and attached > to the existing fence posts). For water proofing, I could simply >drape > some thick plastic sheets over the timbers and line that with gravel > so that water drains straight to the bottom and out the french >drain. > Also, the timbers might have to be replaced after some number of > years right? >- some sort of cheap brick? But that would probably involve more work > than I want to invest in this wall since I have to pour the footing > and stuff. >There has got to be something I have not thought about since I don’t >care how ugly it looks. I just need something to hold about 18" of >dirt. Any ideas? Comments? >Thanks, >-ymaran >PT boards–A local garden center made a very nice, easy, cheap wall with 1×12s.
2×6’s will cost a little more but hold up much better than 1×12’s. 1×12’s will bow and put load on the fence boards. Three 2×6’s and a 2×4 will make up a 20 in. wall. Since appearance doesn’t matter, use PT while it’s still on the market. — Chris Green
> >PT boards–A local garden center made a very nice, easy, cheap wall >with 1×12s. > 2×6’s will cost a little more but hold up much better than 1×12’s. > 1×12’s will bow and put load on the fence boards. Three 2×6’s and a > 2×4 will make up a 20 in. wall. Since appearance doesn’t matter, use > PT while it’s still on the market.
By PT, you mean "pressure treated" right? How many years can I expect this stuff to last before starting to rot in this situation? Will draping thick plastic between the lumber and the dirt help delay the retaining wall from rotting? I’m in So CA, so the only moisture I have to worry about is coming from my irrigation of the planter bed. Thanks, -ymaran
>By PT, you mean "pressure treated" right? How many years can I expect >this stuff to last before starting to rot in this situation?
START to rot or rot to the point where replacement is needed? I’d say 20+ years is a fair estimate for the latter. Since nobody will see them , is the point at which it STARTs to rot really critical? >draping thick plastic between the lumber and the dirt help delay the >retaining wall from rotting?
Yes. It would also be desireable if you grew anything edible. The plastic will likely deteriorate before the wall. -v.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >PT boards–A local garden center made a very nice, easy, cheap wall > >with 1×12s. > 2×6’s will cost a little more but hold up much better than 1×12’s. > 1×12’s will bow and put load on the fence boards. Three 2×6’s and a > 2×4 will make up a 20 in. wall. Since appearance doesn’t matter, use > PT while it’s still on the market. > By PT, you mean "pressure treated" right? How many years can I expect > this stuff to last before starting to rot in this situation? Will > draping thick plastic between the lumber and the dirt help delay the > retaining wall from rotting? I’m in So CA, so the only moisture I > have to worry about is coming from my irrigation of the planter bed. > Thanks, > -ymaran
PT = pressure treated. It should last for many years. I don’t use much PT, but I have cedar and redwood planters that have lasted 15 years or more with no appreciable rot. Thick plastic, like shower pan liner, on the inside of the wall wouldn’t hurt either; it would be an especially good idea with PT, so arsenic doesn’t get leached into the bed. SoCal has wicked subterranean termites, which will take up residence in any wood in contact with the ground that isn’t PT, cedar, or redwood — and they’ll even attack these in a wet place. — Chris Green
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > >PT boards–A local garden center made a very nice, easy, cheap wall > > >with 1×12s. > > 2×6’s will cost a little more but hold up much better than 1×12’s. > > 1×12’s will bow and put load on the fence boards. Three 2×6’s and a > > 2×4 will make up a 20 in. wall. Since appearance doesn’t matter, use > > PT while it’s still on the market. > By PT, you mean "pressure treated" right? How many years can I expect > this stuff to last before starting to rot in this situation? Will > draping thick plastic between the lumber and the dirt help delay the > retaining wall from rotting? I’m in So CA, so the only moisture I > have to worry about is coming from my irrigation of the planter bed. > Thanks, > -ymaran > PT = pressure treated. It should last for many years. I don’t use much > PT, but I have cedar and redwood planters that have lasted 15 years or > more with no appreciable rot. Thick plastic, like shower pan liner, on > the inside of the wall wouldn’t hurt either; it would be an especially > good idea with PT, so arsenic doesn’t get leached into the bed. > SoCal has wicked subterranean termites, which will take up residence > in any wood in contact with the ground that isn’t PT, cedar, or > redwood — and they’ll even attack these in a wet place.
Just a thought here in addition to the other posters. DON’T attach whatever you use to the fence posts. If they are wood, they are going to rot out long before your wall does. I have used PT posts and expect 10 years, 15 at the outside, before they rot off. Harry K
PT last 20 years?? I disagree. That depends on where you live. If you are in the southwest maybe. If you are in "black dirt country" that stuff can be a pain over time. If you put it in dirt it can be gone five, 12 years at the outside. PT is best for exterior "in the air" structures like decks. It does not last long as a landscaping component..in "dirt".. At the minimum it needs "two sides" of air. That’s why some PT walls have gone 18 years. Now if you want to be creative, consider the new cement composit siding… or just do concrete, or concrete-block rip rap. Also, you will be surprised how little a dump truck load of river rock or larger costs, delivered…..like <$150 . But you need a good wheel barrow and strong back to move the stuff from where they dump to where you want it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > >PT boards–A local garden center made a very nice, easy, cheap wall > > >with 1×12s. > > 2×6’s will cost a little more but hold up much better than 1×12’s. > > 1×12’s will bow and put load on the fence boards. Three 2×6’s and a > > 2×4 will make up a 20 in. wall. Since appearance doesn’t matter, use > > PT while it’s still on the market. > By PT, you mean "pressure treated" right? How many years can I expect > this stuff to last before starting to rot in this situation? Will > draping thick plastic between the lumber and the dirt help delay the > retaining wall from rotting? I’m in So CA, so the only moisture I > have to worry about is coming from my irrigation of the planter bed. > Thanks, > -ymaran >PT = pressure treated. It should last for many years. I don’t use much >PT, but I have cedar and redwood planters that have lasted 15 years or >more with no appreciable rot. Thick plastic, like shower pan liner, on >the inside of the wall wouldn’t hurt either; it would be an especially >good idea with PT, so arsenic doesn’t get leached into the bed. >SoCal has wicked subterranean termites, which will take up residence >in any wood in contact with the ground that isn’t PT, cedar, or >redwood — and they’ll even attack these in a wet place.