I have a compressor hose that is busted near the end. Toss it or get it repaired? That is the question. It would mean putting a new crimped fitting on the end and then of course I’d reuse the connecter. I just don’t know who could repair it.
You can repair it yourself. The questions is what condition is the rest of the hose. If it broke because it is in bad condition, then replace it, if it broke because something damaged it, repair it. — Joseph E. Meehan 26 + 6 = 1 It’s Irish Math
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a compressor hose that is busted near the end. Toss it or get it > repaired? That is the question. It would mean putting a new crimped > fitting on the end and then of course I’d reuse the connecter. I just > don’t know who could repair it.
@hotmail.com says… > You can repair it yourself. The questions is what condition is the rest > of the hose. If it broke because it is in bad condition, then replace it, > if it broke because something damaged it, repair it.
Thanks. I tossed another hose that was just too brittle. This one has plenty of life in it, except of the crack near one end. How do I repair it?
They have the parts at the store, at least I have seen them around here. The kit should have instructions. — Joseph E. Meehan 26 + 6 = 1 It’s Irish Math
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You can repair it yourself. The questions is what condition is the rest > of the hose. If it broke because it is in bad condition, then replace it, > if it broke because something damaged it, repair it. > Thanks. I tossed another hose that was just too brittle. This one has > plenty of life in it, except of the crack near one end. How do I repair > it?
> I have a compressor hose that is busted near the end. Toss it or get it > repaired? That is the question. It would mean putting a new crimped > fitting on the end and then of course I’d reuse the connecter. I just > don’t know who could repair it.
got to ace hardware store and buy an end piece that matches your and it comes with a hose clamp, screw on type and this will hold it for you.. if it broke there you can get another 25-50 hose from harbor freight www.harborfreight.com for about $10-$20 and replace it….
<< I have a compressor hose that is busted near the end. Toss it or get it repaired? >> Fix it. Cut back enough of the hose to get to sound material and install a Milton repair end. Then screw your spud back on as on the original. Get familiar with the Milton line of air products. They have been pretty much one of the industry best for many years and are readily available from most auto supply places. FWIW, i’ve used them commercially for more than 30 years. Good luck. Joe
> > I have a compressor hose that is busted near the end. Toss it or get it > repaired? That is the question. It would mean putting a new crimped > fitting on the end and then of course I’d reuse the connecter. I just > don’t know who could repair it.
You don’t need a crimped end. You can get fittings with a barb and use a hose clamp. If the hose is crap, just replace it. If the end went from a lot of flexing (common in that area), easy enough to repair. Probably less than 2 bucks at Home Despot type store. Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
@aol.comtosspam says… > << I have a compressor hose that is busted near the end. Toss it or get it > repaired? >> > Fix it. Cut back enough of the hose to get to sound material and install a > Milton repair end. Then screw your spud back on as on the original. Get > familiar with the Milton line of air products. They have been pretty much one > of the industry best for many years and are readily available from most auto > supply places. FWIW, i’ve used them commercially for more than 30 years. Good > luck. > Joe
Thanks Joe, I will check out Milton for this, it’s about what I was looking for.
> Exactly what are my options for sprucing up wood cabinets painted white but > dingy and chipping besides buying new? > What are the repainting options to make them last longer? > Best way to get the old paint off? > What about those cabinet drawers that are no longer on a guide (fell off > long ago) and tip over, how do I repair those?
http://doityourself.com/kitchen/cabinetdoors.htm
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Download our E-Book that shows how to refinish any wood item the E-Z > Way. I will send you a Newsletter that we have not sent out that show > refinishing a whole kitchen. > Download Site > Free Antique Furniture & Wood Cabinet Refinishing E-Book > Gensys Inc. has developed an E-Book that you can download and run on > your computer. You can go to our download site, enter your name and AD > Code AN01, and we will send you the key to download the book. Your > name and email address will never be shared or sold. No obligation to > obtain the free E-Book. > http://www.gensysinc.net/index.cfm?id=30794&fuseaction=browse&pageid=15 > 6 > Exactly what are my options for sprucing up wood cabinets painted > white > but > dingy and chipping besides buying new? > What are the repainting options to make them last longer? > Best way to get the old paint off? > What about those cabinet drawers that are no longer on a guide (fell > off long ago) and tip over, how do I repair those?
try product called Cabinet Restore, i think. should be at Lowes or HD.
Exactly what are my options for sprucing up wood cabinets painted white but dingy and chipping besides buying new? What are the repainting options to make them last longer? Best way to get the old paint off? What about those cabinet drawers that are no longer on a guide (fell off long ago) and tip over, how do I repair those?
Download our E-Book that shows how to refinish any wood item the E-Z Way. I will send you a Newsletter that we have not sent out that show refinishing a whole kitchen. Download Site Free Antique Furniture & Wood Cabinet Refinishing E-Book Gensys Inc. has developed an E-Book that you can download and run on your computer. You can go to our download site, enter your name and AD Code AN01, and we will send you the key to download the book. Your name and email address will never be shared or sold. No obligation to obtain the free E-Book. http://www.gensysinc.net/index.cfm?id=30794&fuseaction=browse&pageid=156 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Exactly what are my options for sprucing up wood cabinets painted white but > dingy and chipping besides buying new? > What are the repainting options to make them last longer? > Best way to get the old paint off? > What about those cabinet drawers that are no longer on a guide (fell off > long ago) and tip over, how do I repair those?
Last Fall, I had my already paved but worn driveway and front walkway paved over with new asphalt. It came out nice. Also, I had new hollow-core concrete steps installed at the front door. At one corner of the concrete steps, where they meet the asphalt walkway, a small hole has appeared in the asphalt. Wearing a leather glove, I’ve put my hand down into the hole and found that the soil is gone somewhat under the asphalt walkway and in under the concrete steps. I’ve seen some type of small furry brown animal running in behind the concrete steps where they butt up against the concrete foundation. I’m guessing that the small animal has burrowed under the front of the concrete steps and out under the asphalt walkway. How do I get rid of the animal? How do I repair the damage? Thanks. -George —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
Cat. — Joseph E. Meehan 26 + 6 = 1 It’s Irish Math
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Last Fall, I had my already paved but worn driveway and front walkway paved > over with new asphalt. It came out nice. Also, I had new hollow-core > concrete steps installed at the front door. At one corner of the concrete > steps, where they meet the asphalt walkway, a small hole has appeared in the > asphalt. Wearing a leather glove, I’ve put my hand down into the hole and > found that the soil is gone somewhat under the asphalt walkway and in under > the concrete steps. I’ve seen some type of small furry brown animal running > in behind the concrete steps where they butt up against the concrete > foundation. > I’m guessing that the small animal has burrowed under the front of the > concrete steps and out under the asphalt walkway. How do I get rid of the > animal? How do I repair the damage? Thanks. -George > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
Since you’ve been provided with a nice pre-dug hole, why not fill it with concrete? If the animal in question can dig through that — sell and move quickly!. 
— *** E-mail return address will not work! *** Please reply in group or through my website. John McGaw Knoxville, TN, USA http://johnmcgaw.com
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Last Fall, I had my already paved but worn driveway and front walkway paved > over with new asphalt. It came out nice. Also, I had new hollow-core > concrete steps installed at the front door. At one corner of the concrete > steps, where they meet the asphalt walkway, a small hole has appeared in the > asphalt. Wearing a leather glove, I’ve put my hand down into the hole and > found that the soil is gone somewhat under the asphalt walkway and in under > the concrete steps. I’ve seen some type of small furry brown animal running > in behind the concrete steps where they butt up against the concrete > foundation. > I’m guessing that the small animal has burrowed under the front of the > concrete steps and out under the asphalt walkway. How do I get rid of the > animal? How do I repair the damage? Thanks. -George > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–== Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–
Hi, as a long-time lurker here it is finally time for me to ask a question. I have a 99 Silverado 5.3 Engine. At about 24,000 the throttle began to stick occasionally. I had it in the Dealership for some other warranty work and asked them to check this out. The Service writer called me and said that the sticking was due to carbon buildup and this was not covered by the warranty. Rather than argue with them I went ahead and paid to have it fixed. It was about $100 or so if I remember correctly. Well, the truck now has 43,000 on it and the throttle is beginning to stick again. Rather than put out a hundred bucks every 20 odd thousand miles I was wondering if this is something that I could fix myself. Does anybody know what is causing this and how do I repair it? Even better….is there anyway I can prevent this from occuring in the future after it has been corrected? Thanks and any answers will be appreciated!
I had the same problem with the throttle sticking. The dealer said it was carbon build-up due to a vacuum leak. The first time they cleaned the throttle body assembly and the throttle was good (not sticking) for a "while". The second time they replaced the entire throttle body and haven’t had a problem since then. By the way, the dealer covered all the repairs under warranty.
And there’s a TSB on the issue. I think it’s something about clearance on the shaft the throttle plates are on being too tight… >I had the same problem with the throttle sticking. The dealer said it was >carbon build-up due to a vacuum leak. The first time they cleaned the >throttle body assembly and the throttle was good (not sticking) for a >"while". The second time they replaced the entire throttle body and haven’t >had a problem since then. By the way, the dealer covered all the repairs >under warranty.
– Reach me by ICQ. My ICQ# is 8023912 or, Download ICQ at http://www.icq.com/download/ For adding similar signatures to your e-mail go to: http://www.icq.com/email/emailsig.html
>. Well, the truck now has 43,000 on it and the >throttle is beginning to stick again. Rather than put out a hundred >bucks every 20 odd thousand miles I was wondering if this is something >that I could fix myself. Does anybody know what is causing this and >how do I repair it? Even better….is there anyway I can prevent this >from occuring in the future after it has been corrected? Thanks and >any answers will be appreciated!
OK, here’s how we were fixing them before the TSB to change the throttle body came out(it’s a TSB, not a recall, so you probably can’t get them to change it out anymore without paying for it). This is *NOT* the recomended GM fix, but it works. Remove the air duct from the throttle body, take a rag soaked in carb cleaner and clean the throttle body where the butterfly contacts the housing. This should take the stickyness away. Next, take a Torx bit, and on the right side ot the t/body(where the cables hook up)find the throttle stop screw and turn it in 1/2 to 1 turn(don’t go too far, you’ll have other problems then). This will increase the clearance between the throttle blade and the housing, and should prevent re-occurence of the problem. (the tech formerly known as Big Daddy) Old Crow ‘74 Sporty chop ASE Master Auto Tech; Chevy Master Tech Y2K TOMKAT SENS BS#133 DOF#51
Wally, why’d you drop the Big Daddy? — Big Chris If God is good, and God gives us life, then life must be good, even if we don’t particularly like it. –Rich Mullins
| (the tech formerly known as Big Daddy) | | Old Crow | ‘74 Sporty chop | ASE Master Auto Tech; Chevy Master Tech Y2K | TOMKAT SENS BS#133 DOF#51
Thanks Big…Err….Wally, it worked like a champ!!!! If you’re ever in the Annapolis area the beers are on me!! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi, as a long-time lurker here it is finally time for me to ask a >question. I have a 99 Silverado 5.3 Engine. At about 24,000 the >throttle began to stick occasionally. I had it in the Dealership for >some other warranty work and asked them to check this out. The Service >writer called me and said that the sticking was due to carbon buildup >and this was not covered by the warranty. Rather than argue with them >I went ahead and paid to have it fixed. It was about $100 or so if I >remember correctly. Well, the truck now has 43,000 on it and the >throttle is beginning to stick again. Rather than put out a hundred >bucks every 20 odd thousand miles I was wondering if this is something >that I could fix myself. Does anybody know what is causing this and >how do I repair it? Even better….is there anyway I can prevent this >from occuring in the future after it has been corrected? Thanks and >any answers will be appreciated!
Thanks for the replies, but all I need is a good trip odometer… Can I change out just that part? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sorry, the old drill trick doesn’t work with GMs after 1986. In 1987 they went > with electrically driven odometers. There’s a generator in the tranny that > sends a sine wave to the speedo by wires in the harness. Must have stepping > motors in the head to drive the odometers and speedometer needle. One of my > idle day projects will be to reverse engineer it. > Myron E. Williams > Best bet, junkyard speedo head. Modern cars have modular dash, > some very easy to service, others not. Junkyard school is a pass or > fail proposition. You’ll soon know if it * can * be done by you. Mark > title to indicate speedo change. Test replacement unit with large nail > chucked into variable speed drill. Place pointy end into speedo, apply > low power, see if speedo reads. > As for * fixing * your unit, I don’t think so !
some trip odometers are removable. If you find one in the junk yard that one may also not work. Mine died about 3 years ago. It would go to 9 then stop. I’d reset to 0 and it go to 9 and stop. I took my cluster out but decided not to take it out afterall. h
Best bet, junkyard speedo head. Modern cars have modular dash, some very easy to service, others not. Junkyard school is a pass or fail proposition. You’ll soon know if it * can * be done by you. Mark title to indicate speedo change. Test replacement unit with large nail chucked into variable speed drill. Place pointy end into speedo, apply low power, see if speedo reads. As for * fixing * your unit, I don’t think so !
Sorry, the old drill trick doesn’t work with GMs after 1986. In 1987 they went with electrically driven odometers. There’s a generator in the tranny that sends a sine wave to the speedo by wires in the harness. Must have stepping motors in the head to drive the odometers and speedometer needle. One of my idle day projects will be to reverse engineer it. Myron E. Williams – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Best bet, junkyard speedo head. Modern cars have modular dash, > some very easy to service, others not. Junkyard school is a pass or > fail proposition. You’ll soon know if it * can * be done by you. Mark > title to indicate speedo change. Test replacement unit with large nail > chucked into variable speed drill. Place pointy end into speedo, apply > low power, see if speedo reads. > As for * fixing * your unit, I don’t think so !
Subject says it all… The speedometer works fine, and the the vehicle odometer works fine, as well. But the stem on the trip odometer does nothing when pushed in. (Will not reset). Can/should I replace the whole speedo unit? Are the parts even available? Thanks! John
You have to hold it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Subject says it all… The speedometer works fine, and the the vehicle > odometer works fine, as well. But the stem on the trip odometer does > nothing when pushed in. (Will not reset). > Can/should I replace the whole speedo unit? Are the parts even available? > Thanks! > John
Same situation on my 1991 Ciera wagon. Been that way for 2 years. Likely to remain so. Have you ever tried to remove the speedo head in one of these vehicles? And if you get it out try to work on it. I haven’t checked, but strongly suspect that repair is by replacement of the whole head. I intended when I had lots of time and the other projects are all caught up — you know when that is — to visit a DIY junkyard and get a busted one to try to effect a repair. Almost sure the General would not approve. I suspect that is at least in part to discourage fraudulent roll-backs. Enjoy, Myron E. Williams – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Subject says it all… The speedometer works fine, and the the vehicle > odometer works fine, as well. But the stem on the trip odometer does > nothing when pushed in. (Will not reset). > Can/should I replace the whole speedo unit? Are the parts even available? > Thanks! > John
We are preparing our house to sell and I have a unique question on how to repair something in our house. Our cat had a tendency to jump onto the edges of some of our walls. I know this sounds strange, but he liked to wrap his claws around the wood trim that made up doorways/door jams and such and then slide down. This has created some pretty deep scratch marks in the wood. I know we will have to repaint these areas, but how do I repair the scratches? Do I sand them and try to fill them with something before painting?
Fortunately they’re painted and not stained. Just get a wood filler and fill, sand, prime, and paint. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >We are preparing our house to sell and I have a unique question on how >to repair something in our house. Our cat had a tendency to jump onto >the edges of some of our walls. I know this sounds strange, but he >liked to wrap his claws around the wood trim that made up >doorways/door jams and such and then slide down. This has created some >pretty deep scratch marks in the wood. I know we will have to repaint >these areas, but how do I repair the scratches? Do I sand them and try >to fill them with something before painting?
> > Fortunately they’re painted and not stained. > Just get a wood filler and fill, sand, prime, and paint. > add to that, lead filler. in the form of a bullet for that worthless > critter. shoot, dig, and bury.
LOL… welcome back, AJ! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> — > HYH =
In article earthlink.net>, > My daughter has a 1987 Plymouth Reliant. > When driving down the
road the power loss light comes on and the car stalls. > She has to pull off to
the side of the road and restart the engine. Engine > always has restarted. > What is the power loss light telling us? > How do I repair this problem? > This is a very sporadic
problem. It always happens at the most inopportune > time. > Thanks to all who reply.
If you can help me fix this problem you’ll help > make my daughter think I
know what I’m doing. > The engine computer has
fault codes stored in it for anything it finds unusual during operation. Turn the ignition on, off, on, off, on. The power loss light will blink out two digit codes, the highest number being 55 which effectively means "end of messages". Post these codes and we’ll look them up and see if we can diagnose the problem. Jim T. —Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.—
The check engine/power loss light will come on any time the engine stalls (you’ll probably find it’s on when the key is in "run" without starting the engine) so it doesn’t mean much unless it comes on BEFORE it stalls. If it did, then it will store a code in the computer, I’m not too familiar with Chryslers but I think it’s something like turning the ignition on and off three times to read the codes. — Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://members.home.net/hancockr
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My daughter has a 1987 Plymouth Reliant. > When driving down the road the power loss light comes on and the car stalls. > She has to pull off to the side of the road and restart the engine. Engine > always has restarted. > What is the power loss light telling us? > How do I repair this problem? > This is a very sporadic problem. It always happens at the most inopportune > time. > Thanks to all who reply. If you can help me fix this problem you’ll help > make my daughter think I know what I’m doing.
Hello Rex: I highly recommend you get a Haynes manual (from Chief’s, Autozone or another auto parts store) covering that year and model of Reliant. They’re only about $12.00. I’ve got a ‘88 Reliant (2.5L 4cyl) myself. I’ve got a Haynes Manual myself ("Dodge Aries & Plymouth Reliant 1981 thru 1989 all models Automotive Repair Manual"). It will show you (or her) how to do a "check engine light" test among many other things. I’ll try to email you some of the material on it if I get a chance. Take care.
My daughter has a 1987 Plymouth Reliant. When driving down the road the power loss light comes on and the car stalls. She has to pull off to the side of the road and restart the engine. Engine always has restarted. What is the power loss light telling us? How do I repair this problem? This is a very sporadic problem. It always happens at the most inopportune time. Thanks to all who reply. If you can help me fix this problem you’ll help make my daughter think I know what I’m doing.
My daughter has a 1987 Plymouth Reliant. When driving down the road the power loss light comes on and the car stalls. She has to pull off to the side of the road and restart the engine. Engine always has restarted. What is the power loss light telling us? How do I repair this problem? This is a very sporadic problem. It always happens at the most inopportune time. Thanks to all who reply. If you can help me fix this problem you’ll help make my daughter think I know what I’m doing.
In article earthlink.net>, > My daughter has a 1987 Plymouth Reliant. > When driving down the
road the power loss light comes on and the car stalls. > She has to pull off to
the side of the road and restart the engine. Engine > always has restarted. > What is the power loss light telling us? > How do I repair this problem? > This is a very sporadic
problem. It always happens at the most inopportune > time. > Thanks to all who reply.
If you can help me fix this problem you’ll help > make my daughter think I
know what I’m doing. > The engine computer has
fault codes stored in it for anything it finds unusual during operation. Turn the ignition on, off, on, off, on. The power loss light will blink out two digit codes, the highest number being 55 which effectively means "end of messages". Post these codes and we’ll look them up and see if we can diagnose the problem. Jim T. —Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.—
The check engine/power loss light will come on any time the engine stalls (you’ll probably find it’s on when the key is in "run" without starting the engine) so it doesn’t mean much unless it comes on BEFORE it stalls. If it did, then it will store a code in the computer, I’m not too familiar with Chryslers but I think it’s something like turning the ignition on and off three times to read the codes. — Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://members.home.net/hancockr
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My daughter has a 1987 Plymouth Reliant. > When driving down the road the power loss light comes on and the car stalls. > She has to pull off to the side of the road and restart the engine. Engine > always has restarted. > What is the power loss light telling us? > How do I repair this problem? > This is a very sporadic problem. It always happens at the most inopportune > time. > Thanks to all who reply. If you can help me fix this problem you’ll help > make my daughter think I know what I’m doing.
Hello Rex: I highly recommend you get a Haynes manual (from Chief’s, Autozone or another auto parts store) covering that year and model of Reliant. They’re only about $12.00. I’ve got a ‘88 Reliant (2.5L 4cyl) myself. I’ve got a Haynes Manual myself ("Dodge Aries & Plymouth Reliant 1981 thru 1989 all models Automotive Repair Manual"). It will show you (or her) how to do a "check engine light" test among many other things. I’ll try to email you some of the material on it if I get a chance. Take care.