Hi, Just moved into our house and I have a problem with two of the toilets. First, one doesn’t have enough water in the bowl. This is fine for going #1, but makes a mess when doing #2. It flushes fine but still leaves stains. How do I get more water in the bowl. Second, the other toilet has enough water in the bowl but when you flush not much leaves the bowl. It doesn’t overflow, but toilet paper remains in the bowl and it takes quite a few flushes for the water to go clear after we’ve used cleaning stuff. So I guess its a slow drainer. How do I fix it? The rest of the drains seem to run good so I don’t think its a venting problem. Thanks, Jeff
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, > Just moved into our house and I have a problem with two of the toilets. > First, one doesn’t have enough water in the bowl. This is fine for going > #1, but makes a mess when doing #2. It flushes fine but still leaves > stains. How do I get more water in the bowl. > Second, the other toilet has enough water in the bowl but when you flush not > much leaves the bowl. It doesn’t overflow, but toilet paper remains in the > bowl and it takes quite a few flushes for the water to go clear after we’ve > used cleaning stuff. So I guess its a slow drainer. How do I fix it? The > rest of the drains seem to run good so I don’t think its a venting problem. > Thanks, > Jeff
on the one that does not fill up all the way, move the float higher to allow more water to enter before it shuts off…. on the one that does not empty all the the way: make sure the flapper valve is lifting enough or staying up to allow all the water to run out..
If you have one of those tablets that "disinfects" the toilet, get rid of it yesterday.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > Just moved into our house and I have a problem with two of the toilets. > First, one doesn’t have enough water in the bowl. This is fine for going > #1, but makes a mess when doing #2. It flushes fine but still leaves > stains. How do I get more water in the bowl. > Second, the other toilet has enough water in the bowl but when you flush not > much leaves the bowl. It doesn’t overflow, but toilet paper remains in the > bowl and it takes quite a few flushes for the water to go clear after we’ve > used cleaning stuff. So I guess its a slow drainer. How do I fix it? The > rest of the drains seem to run good so I don’t think its a venting problem. > Thanks, > Jeff
It is one piece. And it is stamped "1989." There is nothing leaking onto the floor so I think the nut on the bottom of the tank is fine. The refill tube seems fine too. It is routed into the tank itself. After refilling, the Fluidmaster stops the water from entering. Then, gradually, the water level drops until the Fluidmaster kicks in again and refills to the proper level. This is the correct Fluidmaster design to let me know there is a leak. The only thing I can imagine is that flapper is leaking. That would explain why the water level drops but there is no leak on the floor. Thanks for your help! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Is this a one piece toilet or just a regular 2 piece tank-bowl combo ? >Just an idea but look at the nut on the bottom of the tank that secures >the control valve, maybe the old American Standard nut (with holes in it) >was left on when the Fluidmaster was installed >I have reused the nut with holes by filling it with plumber’s putty when >I found them to leak onto the floor >Are you sure the refill tube is staying in place and not spraying outside >of the china overflow chamber, sometimes they spray water up and over the >tank top or splash off the lid and run down the back of the tank > I have a leak somewhere in my toilet. I have a Fluidmaster 400A fill > valve. But the refill tube is not going into an overflow tube, it is > directed into an area in the upper corner of the toilet. The water > seems to enter to tank at from the bottom of the fill valve. This > must be the design, which normally works fine when there is no leak. > But how do I fix the leak? Replace the fill valve? I have tried > cleaning the flapper, to no avail. > The toilet is an American Standard from 1989. It is marked 216 2007, > which may be a model number.
> It is one piece. And it is stamped "1989." There is nothing leaking > onto the floor so I think the nut on the bottom of the tank is fine. > The refill tube seems fine too. It is routed into the tank itself. > After refilling, the Fluidmaster stops the water from entering. Then, > gradually, the water level drops until the Fluidmaster kicks in again > and refills to the proper level. This is the correct Fluidmaster > design to let me know there is a leak.
<SNIP> Make certain that the end of the refill tube is actually *above* the water level in the tank. If below, the thing will siphon the tank water out. Jim
I have a leak somewhere in my toilet. I have a Fluidmaster 400A fill valve. But the refill tube is not going into an overflow tube, it is directed into an area in the upper corner of the toilet. The water seems to enter to tank at from the bottom of the fill valve. This must be the design, which normally works fine when there is no leak. But how do I fix the leak? Replace the fill valve? I have tried cleaning the flapper, to no avail. The toilet is an American Standard from 1989. It is marked 216 2007, which may be a model number.
Is this a one piece toilet or just a regular 2 piece tank-bowl combo ? Just an idea but look at the nut on the bottom of the tank that secures the control valve, maybe the old American Standard nut (with holes in it) was left on when the Fluidmaster was installed I have reused the nut with holes by filling it with plumber’s putty when I found them to leak onto the floor Are you sure the refill tube is staying in place and not spraying outside of the china overflow chamber, sometimes they spray water up and over the tank top or splash off the lid and run down the back of the tank – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a leak somewhere in my toilet. I have a Fluidmaster 400A fill > valve. But the refill tube is not going into an overflow tube, it is > directed into an area in the upper corner of the toilet. The water > seems to enter to tank at from the bottom of the fill valve. This > must be the design, which normally works fine when there is no leak. > But how do I fix the leak? Replace the fill valve? I have tried > cleaning the flapper, to no avail. > The toilet is an American Standard from 1989. It is marked 216 2007, > which may be a model number.
The best way to tell if it’s the flapper is to put some food coloring (of plumbing tablet especially made for this) into the tank. Don’t use the toilet for a few hours. If there is colored water in the bowl, the flapper is leaking. — BobJ
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> shut off the water at the valve under the tank when you go to bed. if when > you getup in the morning the tank has emptied out and there’s no water on > the floor then it must be the flapper or its seat. > I have a leak somewhere in my toilet. I have a Fluidmaster 400A fill > valve. But the refill tube is not going into an overflow tube, it is > directed into an area in the upper corner of the toilet. The water > seems to enter to tank at from the bottom of the fill valve. This > must be the design, which normally works fine when there is no leak. > But how do I fix the leak? Replace the fill valve? I have tried > cleaning the flapper, to no avail. > The toilet is an American Standard from 1989. It is marked 216 2007, > which may be a model number.
shut off the water at the valve under the tank when you go to bed. if when you getup in the morning the tank has emptied out and there’s no water on the floor then it must be the flapper or its seat.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a leak somewhere in my toilet. I have a Fluidmaster 400A fill > valve. But the refill tube is not going into an overflow tube, it is > directed into an area in the upper corner of the toilet. The water > seems to enter to tank at from the bottom of the fill valve. This > must be the design, which normally works fine when there is no leak. > But how do I fix the leak? Replace the fill valve? I have tried > cleaning the flapper, to no avail. > The toilet is an American Standard from 1989. It is marked 216 2007, > which may be a model number.
There is no overflow tube sticking up inside the tank. There is an area in the upper corner of the tank which functions as an overflow tube. The refill tube from the Fluidmaster is directed into this opening in the tank. This arrangement worked fine for over 10 years. Now I think probably there is a leak around the flapper. I don’t think it is the overflow tube. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->We’ve put Fluidmaster valves in 7 toilets in 3 houses and they all required >that the refill tube be attached so that it emptied into the overflow tube; >they were held in place with a clip. When a couple came loose and aimed at >the top of the tank we had water on the floor. > I have a leak somewhere in my toilet. I have a Fluidmaster 400A fill > valve. But the refill tube is not going into an overflow tube, it is > directed into an area in the upper corner of the toilet. The water > seems to enter to tank at from the bottom of the fill valve. This > must be the design, which normally works fine when there is no leak. > But how do I fix the leak? Replace the fill valve? I have tried > cleaning the flapper, to no avail. > The toilet is an American Standard from 1989. It is marked 216 2007, > which may be a model number.
We’ve put Fluidmaster valves in 7 toilets in 3 houses and they all required that the refill tube be attached so that it emptied into the overflow tube; they were held in place with a clip. When a couple came loose and aimed at the top of the tank we had water on the floor.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a leak somewhere in my toilet. I have a Fluidmaster 400A fill > valve. But the refill tube is not going into an overflow tube, it is > directed into an area in the upper corner of the toilet. The water > seems to enter to tank at from the bottom of the fill valve. This > must be the design, which normally works fine when there is no leak. > But how do I fix the leak? Replace the fill valve? I have tried > cleaning the flapper, to no avail. > The toilet is an American Standard from 1989. It is marked 216 2007, > which may be a model number.
> Yep, its above the water level. > Ken
Then it just about has to be leaking around the flapper or its seat. Do some experimenting in that area. Jim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> It is one piece. And it is stamped "1989." There is nothing leaking >> onto the floor so I think the nut on the bottom of the tank is fine. >> The refill tube seems fine too. It is routed into the tank itself. >> After refilling, the Fluidmaster stops the water from entering. Then, >> gradually, the water level drops until the Fluidmaster kicks in again >> and refills to the proper level. This is the correct Fluidmaster >> design to let me know there is a leak. > <SNIP> > Make certain that the end of the refill tube is actually > *above* the water level in the tank. If below, the thing > will siphon the tank water out. >Jim
Yep, its above the water level. Ken – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It is one piece. And it is stamped "1989." There is nothing leaking > onto the floor so I think the nut on the bottom of the tank is fine. > The refill tube seems fine too. It is routed into the tank itself. > After refilling, the Fluidmaster stops the water from entering. Then, > gradually, the water level drops until the Fluidmaster kicks in again > and refills to the proper level. This is the correct Fluidmaster > design to let me know there is a leak. > <SNIP> > Make certain that the end of the refill tube is actually > *above* the water level in the tank. If below, the thing > will siphon the tank water out. >Jim
I have two bathrooms. In BOTH bathrooms, if the hot water is slowly running, the pipes in the walls vibrate something fierce. What causes this, and more important … how do I fix it before a solder connection breaks and I have a flood? I should mention this is in the sinks, not the showers. TIA, Bill
The most common cause is a loose washer in a faucet or even in a shut off valve. Hard to reconcile that with *both* sinks though and not the shower if fed from the same shutoff. Another possibility I wouldn’t overlook is a resonating toilet ballcock (fill valve). While the pipe is vibrating, grab hold of the float in the toilet tank. See if that alters the vibration at all. Jim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have two bathrooms. In BOTH bathrooms, if the hot water is slowly > running, the pipes in the walls vibrate something fierce. What causes > this, and more important … how do I fix it before a solder connection > breaks and I have a flood? > I should mention this is in the sinks, not the showers. > TIA, > Bill
"Ulysses" & "Speedy Jim" … thanks for the replies. Now I have a starting spot. :) Bill
I had four faucets (upstairs, bathrooms) all start doing it at once! I replace all the seals, o-rings etc and it stopped. However, I discovered that the real problem was my pressure regulator. It had failed and my water pressures was at 165 psi!!! This became apparent when I had a pipe start leaking in my concrete slab. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >The most common cause is a loose washer in a faucet >or even in a shut off valve. Hard to reconcile that >with *both* sinks though and not the shower if fed from >the same shutoff. >Another possibility I wouldn’t overlook is a resonating >toilet ballcock (fill valve). While the pipe is vibrating, >grab hold of the float in the toilet tank. See if that >alters the vibration at all. >Jim > I have two bathrooms. In BOTH bathrooms, if the hot water is slowly > running, the pipes in the walls vibrate something fierce. What causes > this, and more important … how do I fix it before a solder connection > breaks and I have a flood? > I should mention this is in the sinks, not the showers. > TIA, > Bill
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My City Water Department shut down a water main for seven hours. After > restoration of the water service, I turned on my water faucet and the > pipes rattled loudly; the toilet also rumbled after flushing it. One > week later, I discovered a steady water drip coming from a supply line > under my bathroom sink, and everything was saturated (wall, cabinet, > carpet padding and carpet). Since this bathroom is seldom used, the > only time I discovered something was wrong was when I detected a > horrible odor coming from the water-soaked cabinet. > My insurance carrier sent an inspector to assess the damage. He > determined there is no permanent subfloor damage, though the cabinet > is buckled and the stench remains. He stated the cabinet does NOT have > to be replaced. > I believe a supply line came loose during the water hammer incident > but the City won’t fess up to causing my damages. The say it’s not > possible for this to happen. My deductible is $500 so I’ve already > lost that much money. Also, I believe the cabinet should be replaced > because after numerous attempts, I can’t get the odor out. > 1) Could this water hammer have caused my problem? > 2) If so, how do I convince the city to reimburse my expenses? > 3) How can I convince my insurance company to replace the cabinet? > Thanks for your help. > Coni
Sounds like you had air in the lines and that will shake them (hammer too) quite a bit until you purge it, and the shaking/hammer caused a questionable solder joint or internally corroded tubing to leak. Unless the pressure increased, but you didn’t mention that…. I don’t see liability on the water company’s part. I do see the insurance guys doing their best to not replace the cabinet that you are doing your best to get out of paying for. But due to the deductible, you can’t escape all of it possibly. Personally, I look at insurance for the recovery of catastrophic financial loss, not this type of thing. I’d pony up and replace the vanity myself and not claim against my policy. I wouldn’t have mentioned it to them at all. Gary Quality Water
1) Could this water hammer have caused my problem? I don’t think water hammer is the right term, although the effect is about the same. There was air in the pipes and that would cause the problem. 2) If so, how do I convince the city to reimburse my expenses? I doubt if you can. Frankly, I would say that if the plumbing was in good shape, it should not have had a problem. At most the air in the pipe only pointed out a problem you were going to have soon anyway. 3) How can I convince my insurance company to replace the cabinet? I guess you could suggest you were going to switch companies, but frankly, I doubt if you are going to get them to pay. Ask to speak to the next level up, write a few letters and see what they say. As I understand it the cabinet smells. How long as it been, what has been done to eliminate the problem, is there any mechanical problems with it? Exactly why does the insurance company say it does not need to be replaced? Because it does not smell, because it is not covered? — Dia ’s Muire duit Joe M
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My City Water Department shut down a water main for seven hours. After > restoration of the water service, I turned on my water faucet and the > pipes rattled loudly; the toilet also rumbled after flushing it. One > week later, I discovered a steady water drip coming from a supply line > under my bathroom sink, and everything was saturated (wall, cabinet, > carpet padding and carpet). Since this bathroom is seldom used, the > only time I discovered something was wrong was when I detected a > horrible odor coming from the water-soaked cabinet. > My insurance carrier sent an inspector to assess the damage. He > determined there is no permanent subfloor damage, though the cabinet > is buckled and the stench remains. He stated the cabinet does NOT have > to be replaced. > I believe a supply line came loose during the water hammer incident > but the City won’t fess up to causing my damages. The say it’s not > possible for this to happen. My deductible is $500 so I’ve already > lost that much money. Also, I believe the cabinet should be replaced > because after numerous attempts, I can’t get the odor out. > 1) Could this water hammer have caused my problem? > 2) If so, how do I convince the city to reimburse my expenses? > 3) How can I convince my insurance company to replace the cabinet?
Your pipes should be able to withstand the rattling (probably due to air in the lines) that occurred after the water main incident. I can’t see that the city could be held responsible. Most likely the line under your sink was not assembled properly to begin with (likely the ferrule was not on far enough). — Dan Hicks The Luddites were optimists!
My City Water Department shut down a water main for seven hours. After restoration of the water service, I turned on my water faucet and the pipes rattled loudly; the toilet also rumbled after flushing it. One week later, I discovered a steady water drip coming from a supply line under my bathroom sink, and everything was saturated (wall, cabinet, carpet padding and carpet). Since this bathroom is seldom used, the only time I discovered something was wrong was when I detected a horrible odor coming from the water-soaked cabinet. My insurance carrier sent an inspector to assess the damage. He determined there is no permanent subfloor damage, though the cabinet is buckled and the stench remains. He stated the cabinet does NOT have to be replaced. I believe a supply line came loose during the water hammer incident but the City won’t fess up to causing my damages. The say it’s not possible for this to happen. My deductible is $500 so I’ve already lost that much money. Also, I believe the cabinet should be replaced because after numerous attempts, I can’t get the odor out. 1) Could this water hammer have caused my problem? 2) If so, how do I convince the city to reimburse my expenses? 3) How can I convince my insurance company to replace the cabinet? Thanks for your help. Coni
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I just had a new bathroom remodeled and the shower was converted from > a single shower to a dual shower. The copper line used to go to the > shower head, now goes to the opposite wall, then it goes into a valve, > which then goes into a diverted which either directs it to a shower > head on that wall, or goes back across to the original wall where > there is now an outlet for a handspray. So we added 22′ of copper > pipe for this additional "run". > Now that all is done, wall is patched, wall tiles installed, ceiling > replaced. I noticed that when I am taking a shower in the new > bathroom, I hear something behind the wall as if someone is "knocking > on the door". > This apparently only happens when the faucet or toilet is flushed in > the other bathroom. > Is this what is called "Water Hammer"? I heard that this is only when > you turn off the faucet and hears a hump and it has to do with > pressure build up and you solve it by putting in relieve values > somewhere? I do not hear humps, I hear "knocks" 5 or 6 in a row each > time. > What is it and what can be done now? > Thanks, > OrangeTrader
A "water hammer arrestor" *may* solve the problem. Here is some info on various styles and how they work: http://www.plumbingsupply.com/waterhammerarresters.html If the entire 22 feet of copper is unsupported, it’s possible that even minor pressure pulses will cause it to vibrate in contact with the wall. If that’s the case, opening the other side of the wall to attach the pipe more rigidly may be the only cure. Jim
> I just had a new bathroom remodeled and the shower was converted from SNIP > I noticed that when I am taking a shower in the new bathroom, > I hear something behind the wall as if someone is "knocking > on the door". SNIP > Is this what is called "Water Hammer"?
SNIP Probably, but not necessarily. What part of the wall is the noise coming from? My new house had a defective shower valve that was the source of awful noise. It sounded just like a water hammer AND loose supply lines banging against each other in the wind. It went on all night long! It turned out to be the pressure regulating valve banging back and forth. Good luck Roger
I just had a new bathroom remodeled and the shower was converted from a single shower to a dual shower. The copper line used to go to the shower head, now goes to the opposite wall, then it goes into a valve, which then goes into a diverted which either directs it to a shower head on that wall, or goes back across to the original wall where there is now an outlet for a handspray. So we added 22′ of copper pipe for this additional "run". Now that all is done, wall is patched, wall tiles installed, ceiling replaced. I noticed that when I am taking a shower in the new bathroom, I hear something behind the wall as if someone is "knocking on the door". This apparently only happens when the faucet or toilet is flushed in the other bathroom. Is this what is called "Water Hammer"? I heard that this is only when you turn off the faucet and hears a hump and it has to do with pressure build up and you solve it by putting in relieve values somewhere? I do not hear humps, I hear "knocks" 5 or 6 in a row each time. What is it and what can be done now? Thanks, OrangeTrader
The water in my toilet bowl is slowly draining out, yet there are no signs of water leaking out anywhere. I don’t see how the water can leak out of the bowl (the tank is functioning fine) without water being everywhere? Any ideas? Thanks. Before you buy.
Jimi z’s right about this but didn’t say it in a very nice way. It does get a little tedious to answer the same questions over and over. But if you’re like a lot of people out there you’re new to usenet groups and didn’t know how to go about looking for the info. Do some searches on your topic and you’ll find a wealth of info. Don’t take it too personally. By the way. Check the little hose stuck inside the overflow tube. If you pull that little hose up a little so there is a little hump in it, it will stop siphoning the water out of the tank. The only other possibility is a bad flapper or a bad connection between the overflow tube apparatus and the tank. — Appliance Problem? Visit us at http://www.repairclinic.com before you start your repair. Get free repair help and part research. Order any part online.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The water in my toilet bowl is slowly draining out, yet there are no > signs of water leaking out anywhere. I don’t see how the water can > leak out of the bowl (the tank is functioning fine) without water being > everywhere? > Any ideas? > Thanks. > Before you buy. > Any ideas? sure. but just a couple out of 1400. a search, at of all > places DEJANEWS (ever heard of that?) revealed 1400 matches for the word > toilet in a.h.r. over just the last year. > this article posted just -this- week produced no less than 9-10 replies > "My toilet in 3 yrs. old. I’ve never had any problems until lately. The > water in the bowlleaks out within 5 minutes leaving absolutely no water in > it. What is causing this problem and how do I fix it? Thanks." > can you believe that? someone else in this world had problems with their > toilet! don’t feel bad. the one that posted that article was too > lazy-brained to first search or even bother to look around at recent > articles before asking their question also. > — > Note: I have no financial interest in any product and/or otherwise > that I may recommend. -aj- > http://www.gardenweb.com/forums/ > http://www.greensmiths.com/forums.htm > http://www.hometime.com/projects/forum/archives/homemain/critters.htm > For Topics Other Than Home Repair: > http://newssearch.pilum.net/