> >The belt on my ‘89 Cavalier (2.0l 4cyl) is no longer being held taut by >the tension wheel (or whatever it’s called). How do I fix this problem >myself? > Is the tensioner not physically working, or has the belt stretched so > that the tensioner can’t compensate?
The belt is OK and on properly. The wheel that the belt rides upon (that wheel seeming to me to be just a spinner) is itself attached to the outer edge of another inset wheel which also turns freely (I gather it shouldn’t be). It this difficult to fix?
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >The belt on my ‘89 Cavalier (2.0l 4cyl) is no longer being held taut by > >the tension wheel (or whatever it’s called). How do I fix this problem > >myself? > Is the tensioner not physically working, or has the belt stretched so > that the tensioner can’t compensate? > The belt is OK and on properly. The wheel that the belt rides upon > (that wheel seeming to me to be just a spinner) is itself attached to the > outer edge of another inset wheel which also turns freely (I gather it > shouldn’t be). > It this difficult to fix?
Nope. You just pay thru the nose at your local GM dealer, and bolt the new one on.
> The belt is OK and on properly. The wheel that the belt rides upon >(that wheel seeming to me to be just a spinner) is itself attached to the >outer edge of another inset wheel which also turns freely (I gather it >shouldn’t be).
Hmm.. Allright, sounds like your automatic tensioner has indeed bought the farm then. > It this difficult to fix?
Not terribly.. Gm dealer or scrapyard will be able to provide a replacement, and some good old elbow grease on your behalf will get it on. — Mark, Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
> > The belt is OK and on properly. The wheel that the belt rides upon >(that wheel seeming to me to be just a spinner) is itself attached to the >outer edge of another inset wheel which also turns freely (I gather it >shouldn’t be). > Hmm.. Allright, sounds like your automatic tensioner has indeed bought > the farm then.
It turns out that the plastic gasket holding the wheel in has bought the farm. This allow the wheel to have some "play", and the spring popped out of its socket inside the wheel. > It this difficult to fix? > Not terribly.. Gm dealer or scrapyard will be able to provide a > replacement, and some good old elbow grease on your behalf will get it > on.
GM or Napa will sell the gasket. You have to buy the whole whole stupid kit to get one. Oh well…. Trip to the wreckers to see what they have. Dilbert: "Today I started hating people in advance." Dogbert: "It saves time."
If it’s not holding the belt tight, either the belt isn’t routed the right way around the pulleys or the belt tensioner assembly is bad. That has to be replaced as a unit. — Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://members.home.net/hancockr – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The belt on my ‘89 Cavalier (2.0l 4cyl) is no longer being held taut by > the tension wheel (or whatever it’s called). How do I fix this problem > myself?
> You don’t really need to cut the pipe. Simply wrap several turns of a > strip of pond liner around the cut and put SS hose clamps around it, > one at each end and one right over the cut. The amount of leakage > will be infinitessimal.
Even at only 20 PSI, I would doubt that this would be effective. On the other hand, if a piece of stiff metal (1/2 inch wide metal bar, maybe 1/8 inch thick) is run lengthwise on the outside of the liner directly over the split, it would simulate the leak clamp I use for galvanized pipe, if the hose clamps are able to be tightened enough to squeeze the rubber into the split the full length of the split. The problem is the split will be hard to close otherwise, and I’m afraid that it will leak pretty badly under that kind of pressure. Jim, in Georgia
>I have a built in pool that has sprung a leak in the pipe returning filtered >water to the pool. It’s approximately 2" black pipe. It’s buried about a foot >down underneath the pool patio. I’ve dug a hole around it and drained the >pool below the level. I thought this stuff was ABS but now I think it may be >polyethylene. The filter runs at about 20 psi but I’m sure ocasionally spikes >higher than that. A tree root nudged it causing a split about an inch >vertical in the horizontally lying pipe. My question: How do I fix this? It >is a psi pipe and buried in te sand. Been to 4 different hardware stores/home >centers, a pool supply store and even talked to the former homeowner and got >differing opinions. I don’t want to do this again next year. Any suggestions >would be greatly appreciated.
There are PVC repair fittings that will work. you have to cut the pipe and slip it on. it seals on both ends. They screw on both ends with rubber seals. I am sure they go upto 100psi or so. cost you about 8 bucks. "Friends help you move. Real friends help you move bodies." –seen on bumper sticker Doggie` on irc ICQ UIN 1796787
> >pool below the level. I thought this stuff was ABS but now I think it may be >polyethylene.
This will be a continuing problem. ABS not designed for burial. (commonly used for vent pipe and mobile home drains)You should replace it while you have the chance. My opinion based on experience…. — Charles Anderson C&S General Construction & Landscape Co. http://www.pondguy.com
This is very long, so anyone not deeply interested in plumbing, just pass it by. Or, if you have an interest in possibly correcting me or adding to the problem, read on. > There is also a device made for galvanized pipe that will probably work > for this type of split. It is two pieces of metal designed to clamp > along the pipe without cutting it. It comes with a piece of fairly > stiff rubber that goes over the split, then one of the formed metal > strips fit over the rubber and the other part goes behind the pipe and > connected with screws to clamp them to the pipe. When the two metal > parts are tightened down, the rubber is pressed into the split and seals > it. I have had galvanized pipe sealed for 10 years this way. Every > hardware store sells it for galvanized pipe. It would be worth a try.
This device works for almost any size pipe, only dependent that the flanges that hold the screws are big enough that the screws go past the pipe and the screws are long enough. They come in different sizes but I used to keep a large one on hand to fit any emergency. We have a lot of rental houses and occasionally I find one still in use from 20-30 years ago when i first installed them. > Thanks Jim, > The pool manufacturer says this is 1.5" polyethylene. I have a ribbed grey > pvc insert connector and it seems too big. I cut a 1/2" sample out of the > pipe. I can only get 1 rib in it with real hot tap water.
As you figured out, one rib inserted will never work. The trouble with these pipe sizes is that some types of pipe are given in outside dimensions (OD) and some other types of pipe are given in inside dimensions (ID). They also make these inserts in black and you might look again and try a black one on the cutout you made. PVC and black poly are different sizes. PVC uses ID and black poly uses OD measurements. Most likely the 1.5" pipe you have is the OD so the pipe is smaller inside by the thickness of the walls. Or, it could have shrunk with stress from being pulled at some point in its manufacture or installation, or compressed too much out of round. Black poly if that is what you have is really stiff pipe. It is very hard to drive in these inserts, and impossible if the insert is one size too big. Take the piece to a Home Depot if you have one nearby and see if you can find the proper black fitting. > I talked to a local > plumbing supply house and this guy tells me I may have copper tube size poly > pipe. He recommended a Mack or Mack Pack compression type fitting. Ever heard > of one of those? If so do you know if they come in 1.5" size? He didn’t have > it and didn’t know if it did. Are there different size categories of > polyethylene pipe? Meaning, could there be a different size fitting for a > copper tube size poly as opposed to PVC pipe size poly? Thanks again for you > help. I really appreciate it.
I don’t know of a size variation in pipe types, such as a poly pipe with 1.5 inch OD and a different spec for a poly 1.5 inch ID. However, copper pipe is usually ID, meaning a 1.5 inch "ID" copper pipe has a 1.5 inch diameter hole in the middle for the water. Black poly seems to come only in OD and a 1.5 inch poly would be 1.5 inch OD which would fit snugly inside of a 1.5 inch ID copper pipe (but too tight to actually get much in). The 1.5 inch poly would lose perhaps 1/8 inch in each wall and thus would be about 1.25 inch ID (but not exactly as this is only speculation as an example of the problem). I’m not familiar with a Mac or Mac Pack, but compression fittings are part of what I described when I talked about a plastic slip on cylindrical boot that fits over the outside of the pipe. The ends of the plastic boot screw onto the cylinder that fits over the pipe. The ends screw down over a rubber compression fitting that gets forced very tightly to the pipe on each side of the splice and seal the ends. I don’t know what to ask (actual name) for but I see them in hardware stores (all this stuff) and recently bought one at Home Depot that was 1.5 inch diameter for my sprinkler system which uses 1.5 inch ID PVC. I use it as a union so I can take it apart easily. They make them for galvanized pipe, PVC and poly. You have to take your piece of pipe to make sure you have the right one, though some are one size fits all types. Here is a crude representation of the assembly of this part starting at one end of the pipe and progressing to the other end. pipe –> (begin part) knurled end cap, threaded, that fits loosely over pipe -> rubber compression fitting (beveled O ring about 1/4 inch long) that fits snugly to pipe -> cylinder threaded at each end, about 4 inches long, slides easily over pipe and spans both ends -> another rubber compression fitting -> another knurled end cap -> other piece of pipe. Slip the end caps over each end of the two pieces of pipe, then slip the rubber compression rings on next. Then slip the cylinder over one of the pipes and slide it back so it bridges both ends. Slip the rubber compression rings snug to the center cylinder and then tighten the two end rings snugly with monkey wrenches or pump pliers. All these fittings are white in all the ones I’ve seen and are made for and work well with both galvanized pipe and PVC pipe, and I suspect for poly. I’ve used it for galvanized and PVC with great success, under all kinds of pressure. It will bridge up to a 3 inch missing section, and will fit where there is no missing section at all. You’ve exhausted all I know and then some. Hope any of it helps. My _very best_ suggestion is to find a Lowe’s or Home Depot which carry about everything, or any older hardware store that has an on-staff plumber that fixes faucets and cuts/threads pipe in the store. If you can find one of those, they are priceless. Plumbing supply stores don’t always like to give advice to non plumbers, bad for business. Jim, in Georgia
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 2 ways to fix it come to mind. > 1 use a rubber boot and stainless steel hose clamps. Yout have to vut the > pipe to slide the boot on. > There is also a device made for galvanized pipe that will probably work > for this type of split. It is two pieces of metal designed to clamp > along the pipe without cutting it. It comes with a piece of fairly > stiff rubber that goes over the split, then one of the formed metal > strips fit over the rubber and the other part goes behind the pipe and > connected with screws to clamp them to the pipe. When the two metal > parts are tightened down, the rubber is pressed into the split and seals > it. I have had galvanized pipe sealed for 10 years this way. Every > hardware store sells it for galvanized pipe. It would be worth a try. > If you can get enough dug out to cut the pipe, the boot that Frank > suggested may be better, but many of these are not designed to take > pressure. There are solid plastic slip on cyllyndrical boots with > rubber gromets to seal the ends in most hardware stores also, and these > are designed to take regular city water pressure, but I’m not sure if > they are made for this type pipe. > 2 get a 2 inch barbed to barbed connector these are used to splice > this type of fexible pipe. > Inserting the connector is not easy, but pouring boiling water on the end > of he pipe slowly so it heats and expands helps. wear gloves and work the > connector into the pipe and secure with clamps. You will have to have a > foot or so of pipe exposed in both directions to make this possible. A > large pair of channel locks can help grip the pipe while you are working it > onto the connector. > This the best type for this type pipe. Make sure you test it under > pressure before you close up the hole. Problem is, you have to cut out > the bad part, including any part that is close enough to be weakened, > which means that your pipe may be too short to join, and you may have to > spice it with two connectors to do the job. When Frank says barbed > connectors, BTW, I think of them as ribbed connectors, but either name > should ring a bell with the hardware store. > Jim, in Georgia
Thanks Jim, The pool manufacturer says this is 1.5" polyethylene. I have a ribbed grey pvc insert connector and it seems too big. I cut a 1/2" sample out of the pipe. I can only get 1 rib in it with real hot tap water. I talked to a local plumbing supply house and this guy tells me I may have copper tube size poly pipe. He recommended a Mack or Mack Pack compression type fitting. Ever heard of one of those? If so do you know if they come in 1.5" size? He didn’t have it and didn’t know if it did. Are there different size categories of polyethylene pipe? Meaning, could there be a different size fitting for a copper tube size poly as opposed to PVC pipe size poly? Thanks again for you help. I really appreciate it. Mark
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a built in pool that has sprung a leak in the pipe returning > filtered >water to the pool. It’s approximately 2" black pipe. It’s buried about a > foot >down underneath the pool patio. I’ve dug a hole around it and drained the >pool below the level. I thought this stuff was ABS but now I think it may > be >polyethylene. The filter runs at about 20 psi but I’m sure ocasionally > spikes >higher than that. A tree root nudged it causing a split about an inch >vertical in the horizontally lying pipe. My question: How do I fix this? It >is a psi pipe and buried in te sand. Been to 4 different hardware > stores/home >centers, a pool supply store and even talked to the former homeowner and > got >differing opinions. I don’t want to do this again next year. Any > suggestions >would be greatly appreciated. >Mark Garrity > 2 ways to fix it come to mind. > 1 use a rubber boot and stainless steel hose clamps. Yout have to vut the > pipe to slide the boot on. > 2 get a 2 inch barbed to barbed connector these are used to splice > this type of fexible pipe. > Inserting the connector is not easy, but pouring boiling water on the end > of he pipe slowly so it heats and expands helps. wear gloves and work the > connector into the pipe and secure with clamps. You will have to have a > foot or so of pipe exposed in both directions to make this possible. A > large pair of channel locks can help grip the pipe while you are working it > onto the connector. > Good luck > frank
Thanks Frank The rubber boot I’ve found are only good for drain type pipes under no psi. If there is one for psi service i haven’t seen it. The pool manufacturer says this is 1.5" polyethylene. I have a ribbed grey pvc insert connector and it seems too big. I cut a 1/2" sample out of the pipe. I can only get 1 rib in it with real hot tap water. I talked to a local plumbing supply house and this guy tells me I may have copper tube size poly pipe. He recommended a Mack or Mack Pack compression type fitting. Ever heard of one of those? If so do you know if they come in 1.5" size? He didn’t have it and didn’t know if it did. Are there different size categories of polyethylene pipe? Meaning, could there be a different size fitting for a copper tube size poly as opposed to PVC pipe size poly? Thanks again for you help. I really appreciate it. Mark
> I have a built in pool that has sprung a leak in the pipe returning > filtered water to the pool. It’s approximately 2" black pipe. It’s > buried about a foot down underneath the pool patio. I’ve dug a hole > around it and drained the pool below the level.
This is a swimming pool right? Cut out the split part and splice in a new piece using 2 couplers and a short length of pipe? If you don’t have enough room to slip on the couplers and pipe you could use a union fitting. regards Frank Caggiano http://www.atlantic.net/~caggiano/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a built in pool that has sprung a leak in the pipe returning >filtered >water to the pool. It’s approximately 2" black pipe. It’s buried about a >foot >down underneath the pool patio. I’ve dug a hole around it and drained the >pool below the level. I thought this stuff was ABS but now I think it may >be >polyethylene. The filter runs at about 20 psi but I’m sure ocasionally >spikes >higher than that. A tree root nudged it causing a split about an inch >vertical in the horizontally lying pipe. My question: How do I fix this? It >is a psi pipe and buried in te sand. Been to 4 different hardware >stores/home >centers, a pool supply store and even talked to the former homeowner and >got >differing opinions. I don’t want to do this again next year. Any >suggestions >would be greatly appreciated. >Mark Garrity >2 ways to fix it come to mind. >1 use a rubber boot and stainless steel hose clamps. Yout have to vut the >pipe to slide the boot on. >2 get a 2 inch barbed to barbed connector these are used to splice >this type of fexible pipe. >Inserting the connector is not easy, but pouring boiling water on the end >of he pipe slowly so it heats and expands helps. wear gloves and work the >connector into the pipe and secure with clamps. You will have to have a >foot or so of pipe exposed in both directions to make this possible. A >large pair of channel locks can help grip the pipe while you are working it >onto the connector. >Good luck >frank
You don’t really need to cut the pipe. Simply wrap several turns of a strip of pond liner around the cut and put SS hose clamps around it, one at each end and one right over the cut. The amount of leakage will be infinitessimal.
> 2 ways to fix it come to mind. > 1 use a rubber boot and stainless steel hose clamps. Yout have to vut the > pipe to slide the boot on.
There is also a device made for galvanized pipe that will probably work for this type of split. It is two pieces of metal designed to clamp along the pipe without cutting it. It comes with a piece of fairly stiff rubber that goes over the split, then one of the formed metal strips fit over the rubber and the other part goes behind the pipe and connected with screws to clamp them to the pipe. When the two metal parts are tightened down, the rubber is pressed into the split and seals it. I have had galvanized pipe sealed for 10 years this way. Every hardware store sells it for galvanized pipe. It would be worth a try. If you can get enough dug out to cut the pipe, the boot that Frank suggested may be better, but many of these are not designed to take pressure. There are solid plastic slip on cyllyndrical boots with rubber gromets to seal the ends in most hardware stores also, and these are designed to take regular city water pressure, but I’m not sure if they are made for this type pipe. > 2 get a 2 inch barbed to barbed connector these are used to splice > this type of fexible pipe. > Inserting the connector is not easy, but pouring boiling water on the end > of he pipe slowly so it heats and expands helps. wear gloves and work the > connector into the pipe and secure with clamps. You will have to have a > foot or so of pipe exposed in both directions to make this possible. A > large pair of channel locks can help grip the pipe while you are working it > onto the connector.
This the best type for this type pipe. Make sure you test it under pressure before you close up the hole. Problem is, you have to cut out the bad part, including any part that is close enough to be weakened, which means that your pipe may be too short to join, and you may have to spice it with two connectors to do the job. When Frank says barbed connectors, BTW, I think of them as ribbed connectors, but either name should ring a bell with the hardware store. Jim, in Georgia
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a built in pool that has sprung a leak in the pipe returning filtered >water to the pool. It’s approximately 2" black pipe. It’s buried about a foot >down underneath the pool patio. I’ve dug a hole around it and drained the >pool below the level. I thought this stuff was ABS but now I think it may be >polyethylene. The filter runs at about 20 psi but I’m sure ocasionally spikes >higher than that. A tree root nudged it causing a split about an inch >vertical in the horizontally lying pipe. My question: How do I fix this? It >is a psi pipe and buried in te sand. Been to 4 different hardware stores/home >centers, a pool supply store and even talked to the former homeowner and got >differing opinions. I don’t want to do this again next year. Any suggestions >would be greatly appreciated. >Mark Garrity
2 ways to fix it come to mind. 1 use a rubber boot and stainless steel hose clamps. Yout have to vut the pipe to slide the boot on. 2 get a 2 inch barbed to barbed connector these are used to splice this type of fexible pipe. Inserting the connector is not easy, but pouring boiling water on the end of he pipe slowly so it heats and expands helps. wear gloves and work the connector into the pipe and secure with clamps. You will have to have a foot or so of pipe exposed in both directions to make this possible. A large pair of channel locks can help grip the pipe while you are working it onto the connector. Good luck frank
I have a built in pool that has sprung a leak in the pipe returning filtered water to the pool. It’s approximately 2" black pipe. It’s buried about a foot down underneath the pool patio. I’ve dug a hole around it and drained the pool below the level. I thought this stuff was ABS but now I think it may be polyethylene. The filter runs at about 20 psi but I’m sure ocasionally spikes higher than that. A tree root nudged it causing a split about an inch vertical in the horizontally lying pipe. My question: How do I fix this? It is a psi pipe and buried in te sand. Been to 4 different hardware stores/home centers, a pool supply store and even talked to the former homeowner and got differing opinions. I don’t want to do this again next year. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Mark Garrity
> You don’t really need to cut the pipe. Simply wrap several turns of a > strip of pond liner around the cut and put SS hose clamps around it, > one at each end and one right over the cut. The amount of leakage > will be infinitessimal.
Even at only 20 PSI, I would doubt that this would be effective. On the other hand, if a piece of stiff metal (1/2 inch wide metal bar, maybe 1/8 inch thick) is run lengthwise on the outside of the liner directly over the split, it would simulate the leak clamp I use for galvanized pipe, if the hose clamps are able to be tightened enough to squeeze the rubber into the split the full length of the split. The problem is the split will be hard to close otherwise, and I’m afraid that it will leak pretty badly under that kind of pressure. Jim, in Georgia
>I have a built in pool that has sprung a leak in the pipe returning filtered >water to the pool. It’s approximately 2" black pipe. It’s buried about a foot >down underneath the pool patio. I’ve dug a hole around it and drained the >pool below the level. I thought this stuff was ABS but now I think it may be >polyethylene. The filter runs at about 20 psi but I’m sure ocasionally spikes >higher than that. A tree root nudged it causing a split about an inch >vertical in the horizontally lying pipe. My question: How do I fix this? It >is a psi pipe and buried in te sand. Been to 4 different hardware stores/home >centers, a pool supply store and even talked to the former homeowner and got >differing opinions. I don’t want to do this again next year. Any suggestions >would be greatly appreciated.
There are PVC repair fittings that will work. you have to cut the pipe and slip it on. it seals on both ends. They screw on both ends with rubber seals. I am sure they go upto 100psi or so. cost you about 8 bucks. "Friends help you move. Real friends help you move bodies." –seen on bumper sticker Doggie` on irc ICQ UIN 1796787
> >pool below the level. I thought this stuff was ABS but now I think it may be >polyethylene.
This will be a continuing problem. ABS not designed for burial. (commonly used for vent pipe and mobile home drains)You should replace it while you have the chance. My opinion based on experience…. — Charles Anderson C&S General Construction & Landscape Co. http://www.pondguy.com
This is very long, so anyone not deeply interested in plumbing, just pass it by. Or, if you have an interest in possibly correcting me or adding to the problem, read on. > There is also a device made for galvanized pipe that will probably work > for this type of split. It is two pieces of metal designed to clamp > along the pipe without cutting it. It comes with a piece of fairly > stiff rubber that goes over the split, then one of the formed metal > strips fit over the rubber and the other part goes behind the pipe and > connected with screws to clamp them to the pipe. When the two metal > parts are tightened down, the rubber is pressed into the split and seals > it. I have had galvanized pipe sealed for 10 years this way. Every > hardware store sells it for galvanized pipe. It would be worth a try.
This device works for almost any size pipe, only dependent that the flanges that hold the screws are big enough that the screws go past the pipe and the screws are long enough. They come in different sizes but I used to keep a large one on hand to fit any emergency. We have a lot of rental houses and occasionally I find one still in use from 20-30 years ago when i first installed them. > Thanks Jim, > The pool manufacturer says this is 1.5" polyethylene. I have a ribbed grey > pvc insert connector and it seems too big. I cut a 1/2" sample out of the > pipe. I can only get 1 rib in it with real hot tap water.
As you figured out, one rib inserted will never work. The trouble with these pipe sizes is that some types of pipe are given in outside dimensions (OD) and some other types of pipe are given in inside dimensions (ID). They also make these inserts in black and you might look again and try a black one on the cutout you made. PVC and black poly are different sizes. PVC uses ID and black poly uses OD measurements. Most likely the 1.5" pipe you have is the OD so the pipe is smaller inside by the thickness of the walls. Or, it could have shrunk with stress from being pulled at some point in its manufacture or installation, or compressed too much out of round. Black poly if that is what you have is really stiff pipe. It is very hard to drive in these inserts, and impossible if the insert is one size too big. Take the piece to a Home Depot if you have one nearby and see if you can find the proper black fitting. > I talked to a local > plumbing supply house and this guy tells me I may have copper tube size poly > pipe. He recommended a Mack or Mack Pack compression type fitting. Ever heard > of one of those? If so do you know if they come in 1.5" size? He didn’t have > it and didn’t know if it did. Are there different size categories of > polyethylene pipe? Meaning, could there be a different size fitting for a > copper tube size poly as opposed to PVC pipe size poly? Thanks again for you > help. I really appreciate it.
I don’t know of a size variation in pipe types, such as a poly pipe with 1.5 inch OD and a different spec for a poly 1.5 inch ID. However, copper pipe is usually ID, meaning a 1.5 inch "ID" copper pipe has a 1.5 inch diameter hole in the middle for the water. Black poly seems to come only in OD and a 1.5 inch poly would be 1.5 inch OD which would fit snugly inside of a 1.5 inch ID copper pipe (but too tight to actually get much in). The 1.5 inch poly would lose perhaps 1/8 inch in each wall and thus would be about 1.25 inch ID (but not exactly as this is only speculation as an example of the problem). I’m not familiar with a Mac or Mac Pack, but compression fittings are part of what I described when I talked about a plastic slip on cylindrical boot that fits over the outside of the pipe. The ends of the plastic boot screw onto the cylinder that fits over the pipe. The ends screw down over a rubber compression fitting that gets forced very tightly to the pipe on each side of the splice and seal the ends. I don’t know what to ask (actual name) for but I see them in hardware stores (all this stuff) and recently bought one at Home Depot that was 1.5 inch diameter for my sprinkler system which uses 1.5 inch ID PVC. I use it as a union so I can take it apart easily. They make them for galvanized pipe, PVC and poly. You have to take your piece of pipe to make sure you have the right one, though some are one size fits all types. Here is a crude representation of the assembly of this part starting at one end of the pipe and progressing to the other end. pipe –> (begin part) knurled end cap, threaded, that fits loosely over pipe -> rubber compression fitting (beveled O ring about 1/4 inch long) that fits snugly to pipe -> cylinder threaded at each end, about 4 inches long, slides easily over pipe and spans both ends -> another rubber compression fitting -> another knurled end cap -> other piece of pipe. Slip the end caps over each end of the two pieces of pipe, then slip the rubber compression rings on next. Then slip the cylinder over one of the pipes and slide it back so it bridges both ends. Slip the rubber compression rings snug to the center cylinder and then tighten the two end rings snugly with monkey wrenches or pump pliers. All these fittings are white in all the ones I’ve seen and are made for and work well with both galvanized pipe and PVC pipe, and I suspect for poly. I’ve used it for galvanized and PVC with great success, under all kinds of pressure. It will bridge up to a 3 inch missing section, and will fit where there is no missing section at all. You’ve exhausted all I know and then some. Hope any of it helps. My _very best_ suggestion is to find a Lowe’s or Home Depot which carry about everything, or any older hardware store that has an on-staff plumber that fixes faucets and cuts/threads pipe in the store. If you can find one of those, they are priceless. Plumbing supply stores don’t always like to give advice to non plumbers, bad for business. Jim, in Georgia
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 2 ways to fix it come to mind. > 1 use a rubber boot and stainless steel hose clamps. Yout have to vut the > pipe to slide the boot on. > There is also a device made for galvanized pipe that will probably work > for this type of split. It is two pieces of metal designed to clamp > along the pipe without cutting it. It comes with a piece of fairly > stiff rubber that goes over the split, then one of the formed metal > strips fit over the rubber and the other part goes behind the pipe and > connected with screws to clamp them to the pipe. When the two metal > parts are tightened down, the rubber is pressed into the split and seals > it. I have had galvanized pipe sealed for 10 years this way. Every > hardware store sells it for galvanized pipe. It would be worth a try. > If you can get enough dug out to cut the pipe, the boot that Frank > suggested may be better, but many of these are not designed to take > pressure. There are solid plastic slip on cyllyndrical boots with > rubber gromets to seal the ends in most hardware stores also, and these > are designed to take regular city water pressure, but I’m not sure if > they are made for this type pipe. > 2 get a 2 inch barbed to barbed connector these are used to splice > this type of fexible pipe. > Inserting the connector is not easy, but pouring boiling water on the end > of he pipe slowly so it heats and expands helps. wear gloves and work the > connector into the pipe and secure with clamps. You will have to have a > foot or so of pipe exposed in both directions to make this possible. A > large pair of channel locks can help grip the pipe while you are working it > onto the connector. > This the best type for this type pipe. Make sure you test it under > pressure before you close up the hole. Problem is, you have to cut out > the bad part, including any part that is close enough to be weakened, > which means that your pipe may be too short to join, and you may have to > spice it with two connectors to do the job. When Frank says barbed > connectors, BTW, I think of them as ribbed connectors, but either name > should ring a bell with the hardware store. > Jim, in Georgia
Thanks Jim, The pool manufacturer says this is 1.5" polyethylene. I have a ribbed grey pvc insert connector and it seems too big. I cut a 1/2" sample out of the pipe. I can only get 1 rib in it with real hot tap water. I talked to a local plumbing supply house and this guy tells me I may have copper tube size poly pipe. He recommended a Mack or Mack Pack compression type fitting. Ever heard of one of those? If so do you know if they come in 1.5" size? He didn’t have it and didn’t know if it did. Are there different size categories of polyethylene pipe? Meaning, could there be a different size fitting for a copper tube size poly as opposed to PVC pipe size poly? Thanks again for you help. I really appreciate it. Mark
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a built in pool that has sprung a leak in the pipe returning > filtered >water to the pool. It’s approximately 2" black pipe. It’s buried about a > foot >down underneath the pool patio. I’ve dug a hole around it and drained the >pool below the level. I thought this stuff was ABS but now I think it may > be >polyethylene. The filter runs at about 20 psi but I’m sure ocasionally > spikes >higher than that. A tree root nudged it causing a split about an inch >vertical in the horizontally lying pipe. My question: How do I fix this? It >is a psi pipe and buried in te sand. Been to 4 different hardware > stores/home >centers, a pool supply store and even talked to the former homeowner and > got >differing opinions. I don’t want to do this again next year. Any > suggestions >would be greatly appreciated. >Mark Garrity > 2 ways to fix it come to mind. > 1 use a rubber boot and stainless steel hose clamps. Yout have to vut the > pipe to slide the boot on. > 2 get a 2 inch barbed to barbed connector these are used to splice > this type of fexible pipe. > Inserting the connector is not easy, but pouring boiling water on the end > of he pipe slowly so it heats and expands helps. wear gloves and work the > connector into the pipe and secure with clamps. You will have to have a > foot or so of pipe exposed in both directions to make this possible. A > large pair of channel locks can help grip the pipe while you are working it > onto the connector. > Good luck > frank
Thanks Frank The rubber boot I’ve found are only good for drain type pipes under no psi. If there is one for psi service i haven’t seen it. The pool manufacturer says this is 1.5" polyethylene. I have a ribbed grey pvc insert connector and it seems too big. I cut a 1/2" sample out of the pipe. I can only get 1 rib in it with real hot tap water. I talked to a local plumbing supply house and this guy tells me I may have copper tube size poly pipe. He recommended a Mack or Mack Pack compression type fitting. Ever heard of one of those? If so do you know if they come in 1.5" size? He didn’t have it and didn’t know if it did. Are there different size categories of polyethylene pipe? Meaning, could there be a different size fitting for a copper tube size poly as opposed to PVC pipe size poly? Thanks again for you help. I really appreciate it. Mark
> I have a built in pool that has sprung a leak in the pipe returning > filtered water to the pool. It’s approximately 2" black pipe. It’s > buried about a foot down underneath the pool patio. I’ve dug a hole > around it and drained the pool below the level.
This is a swimming pool right? Cut out the split part and splice in a new piece using 2 couplers and a short length of pipe? If you don’t have enough room to slip on the couplers and pipe you could use a union fitting. regards Frank Caggiano http://www.atlantic.net/~caggiano/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a built in pool that has sprung a leak in the pipe returning >filtered >water to the pool. It’s approximately 2" black pipe. It’s buried about a >foot >down underneath the pool patio. I’ve dug a hole around it and drained the >pool below the level. I thought this stuff was ABS but now I think it may >be >polyethylene. The filter runs at about 20 psi but I’m sure ocasionally >spikes >higher than that. A tree root nudged it causing a split about an inch >vertical in the horizontally lying pipe. My question: How do I fix this? It >is a psi pipe and buried in te sand. Been to 4 different hardware >stores/home >centers, a pool supply store and even talked to the former homeowner and >got >differing opinions. I don’t want to do this again next year. Any >suggestions >would be greatly appreciated. >Mark Garrity >2 ways to fix it come to mind. >1 use a rubber boot and stainless steel hose clamps. Yout have to vut the >pipe to slide the boot on. >2 get a 2 inch barbed to barbed connector these are used to splice >this type of fexible pipe. >Inserting the connector is not easy, but pouring boiling water on the end >of he pipe slowly so it heats and expands helps. wear gloves and work the >connector into the pipe and secure with clamps. You will have to have a >foot or so of pipe exposed in both directions to make this possible. A >large pair of channel locks can help grip the pipe while you are working it >onto the connector. >Good luck >frank
You don’t really need to cut the pipe. Simply wrap several turns of a strip of pond liner around the cut and put SS hose clamps around it, one at each end and one right over the cut. The amount of leakage will be infinitessimal.
> 2 ways to fix it come to mind. > 1 use a rubber boot and stainless steel hose clamps. Yout have to vut the > pipe to slide the boot on.
There is also a device made for galvanized pipe that will probably work for this type of split. It is two pieces of metal designed to clamp along the pipe without cutting it. It comes with a piece of fairly stiff rubber that goes over the split, then one of the formed metal strips fit over the rubber and the other part goes behind the pipe and connected with screws to clamp them to the pipe. When the two metal parts are tightened down, the rubber is pressed into the split and seals it. I have had galvanized pipe sealed for 10 years this way. Every hardware store sells it for galvanized pipe. It would be worth a try. If you can get enough dug out to cut the pipe, the boot that Frank suggested may be better, but many of these are not designed to take pressure. There are solid plastic slip on cyllyndrical boots with rubber gromets to seal the ends in most hardware stores also, and these are designed to take regular city water pressure, but I’m not sure if they are made for this type pipe. > 2 get a 2 inch barbed to barbed connector these are used to splice > this type of fexible pipe. > Inserting the connector is not easy, but pouring boiling water on the end > of he pipe slowly so it heats and expands helps. wear gloves and work the > connector into the pipe and secure with clamps. You will have to have a > foot or so of pipe exposed in both directions to make this possible. A > large pair of channel locks can help grip the pipe while you are working it > onto the connector.
This the best type for this type pipe. Make sure you test it under pressure before you close up the hole. Problem is, you have to cut out the bad part, including any part that is close enough to be weakened, which means that your pipe may be too short to join, and you may have to spice it with two connectors to do the job. When Frank says barbed connectors, BTW, I think of them as ribbed connectors, but either name should ring a bell with the hardware store. Jim, in Georgia
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a built in pool that has sprung a leak in the pipe returning filtered >water to the pool. It’s approximately 2" black pipe. It’s buried about a foot >down underneath the pool patio. I’ve dug a hole around it and drained the >pool below the level. I thought this stuff was ABS but now I think it may be >polyethylene. The filter runs at about 20 psi but I’m sure ocasionally spikes >higher than that. A tree root nudged it causing a split about an inch >vertical in the horizontally lying pipe. My question: How do I fix this? It >is a psi pipe and buried in te sand. Been to 4 different hardware stores/home >centers, a pool supply store and even talked to the former homeowner and got >differing opinions. I don’t want to do this again next year. Any suggestions >would be greatly appreciated. >Mark Garrity
2 ways to fix it come to mind. 1 use a rubber boot and stainless steel hose clamps. Yout have to vut the pipe to slide the boot on. 2 get a 2 inch barbed to barbed connector these are used to splice this type of fexible pipe. Inserting the connector is not easy, but pouring boiling water on the end of he pipe slowly so it heats and expands helps. wear gloves and work the connector into the pipe and secure with clamps. You will have to have a foot or so of pipe exposed in both directions to make this possible. A large pair of channel locks can help grip the pipe while you are working it onto the connector. Good luck frank
I have a built in pool that has sprung a leak in the pipe returning filtered water to the pool. It’s approximately 2" black pipe. It’s buried about a foot down underneath the pool patio. I’ve dug a hole around it and drained the pool below the level. I thought this stuff was ABS but now I think it may be polyethylene. The filter runs at about 20 psi but I’m sure ocasionally spikes higher than that. A tree root nudged it causing a split about an inch vertical in the horizontally lying pipe. My question: How do I fix this? It is a psi pipe and buried in te sand. Been to 4 different hardware stores/home centers, a pool supply store and even talked to the former homeowner and got differing opinions. I don’t want to do this again next year. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Mark Garrity