where should i look and how do i fix it
Search Google for ideas. It is related to an evaporative canister. But the first thing to try is to tighten your gas cap until in clicks 3 or 4 times.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> where should i look and how do i fix it
> where should i look and how do i fix it > Fletcher is right, sort of… The code P0442 is a EVAP Emission Control
System Leak (Small). This means that the EVAP Control system has detected a leak, most likely, but not always, the gas cap. The charcoal canister is also known to trigger a code, but usually a P0440 EVAP Emission Control System Malfunction code. I know this because my charcoal canister was the culprit when I recieved this code. Another possiblilty is that one of your vaccuum lines related to the emission system, has become disconnected. Have you been working under the hood lately? Hope this helps.
i’ve done nothing since i got the truck and had to replace the drive shaft transfer case adapter torson bar and crossmember and some seals around the transfer case
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> where should i look and how do i fix it > Fletcher is right, sort of… The code P0442 is a EVAP Emission Control > System Leak (Small). This means that the EVAP Control system has detected a > leak, most likely, but not always, the gas cap. The charcoal canister is > also known to trigger a code, but usually a P0440 EVAP Emission Control > System Malfunction code. I know this because my charcoal canister was the > culprit when I recieved this code. Another possiblilty is that one of your > vaccuum lines related to the emission system, has become disconnected. Have > you been working under the hood lately? > Hope this helps.
what is wrong and how do i fix it thanks
P0440 Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction The first thing I would look at is the gas cap. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > what is wrong and how do i fix it > thanks
Agree! You sure that the gas cap wasn’t loose. It happens almost everytime my wife puts gas in my Brub or her rice-burning Nissen. I have a code reader, so I just plug it in an do a reset. I think you can reset by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, but then you have to reset the clock etc. — Diamond Jim "The Old Devil Dog"
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> P0440 Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction > The first thing I would look at is the gas cap. > what is wrong and how do i fix it > thanks
Yeah, you’ll need to reset the computer to clear the code, or it’ll take a certain number of starts to clear by itself, even if you fix the problem. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Agree! You sure that the gas cap wasn’t loose. It happens almost everytime > my wife puts gas in my Brub or her rice-burning Nissen. I have a code > reader, so I just plug it in an do a reset. I think you can reset by > disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, but then you have to reset the > clock etc.
I have a Ampeg VH-140C head and lately it’s been fading in and out on me while playing….any Ideas? Thanks Will
>I have a Ampeg VH-140C head and lately it’s been fading in and out on me >while playing….any Ideas? >Thanks Will
Playing less Buddy Holly songs would help. Pete — And all that was left was to test it. –Dr. Jekyll
far from buddy holly here…Long time metal head hear
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a Ampeg VH-140C head and lately it’s been fading in and out on me >while playing….any Ideas? >Thanks Will > Playing less Buddy Holly songs would help. > Pete > — > And all that was left > was to test it. –Dr. Jekyll
>far from buddy holly here…Long time metal head hear
I here ya. Metal with an Ampeg? This might be something you need to visit a tech to solve. Personally, I’d replace the tubes and hope that fixed the problem, but it’s just as likely not to. Pete — And all that was left was to test it. –Dr. Jekyll
This amp has been good to me…nice and deep chunky stereo sound…4 BLB Sound split cabs each with 2×12" Celestion..couldn’t complain until now….I guess it’s time to put it in the shop for repair..Thanks for the help Will
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->far from buddy holly here…Long time metal head hear > I here ya. Metal with an Ampeg? > This might be something you need to visit a tech to solve. > Personally, I’d replace the tubes and hope that fixed the problem, > but it’s just as likely not to. > Pete > — > And all that was left > was to test it. –Dr. Jekyll
>>far from buddy holly here…Long time metal head hear > I here ya. Metal with an Ampeg?
Yeah, Ampeg (Crate), not ampeg. dw – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This might be something you need to visit a tech to solve. > Personally, I’d replace the tubes and hope that fixed the problem, > but it’s just as likely not to. > Pete > — > And all that was left > was to test it. –Dr. Jekyll
>Yeah, Ampeg (Crate), not ampeg. >dw
Oh, that don’t count then! I don’t think Keith would play one of those. I don’t know Crate…. I mean Ampeg model numbers. I know the Gemini II, and that’s about it. Pete — And all that was left was to test it. –Dr. Jekyll
Crate was something I would play when I was 15 ..granted Ampeg may not be a caddy but when you don’t have mommy buying it for you,you get what you can afford….
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Yeah, Ampeg (Crate), not ampeg. >dw > Oh, that don’t count then! I don’t think Keith would play one of > those. > I don’t know Crate…. I mean Ampeg model numbers. > I know the Gemini II, and that’s about it. > Pete > — > And all that was left > was to test it. –Dr. Jekyll
>>far from buddy holly here…Long time metal head hear >I here ya. Metal with an Ampeg?
Pete, bro’, I love ya man, but you gotta keep up with the times. The VH140Cs are pretty much standard issue for America’s Young Metal Players. Lots of ‘em out there. I maintain one for a customer who keeps it in his studio just for that metal grind SS distortion thing. You can get ‘em pretty cheap, they’re rugged as hell and sound like they do. >This might be something you need to visit a tech to solve. >Personally, I’d replace the tubes and hope that fixed the problem, >but it’s just as likely not to.
These ain’t even got tubes. They do have chorus. As for this problem, as always try bypassing the FX loop jacks with a straight cord first. Ron
it does this with straight chord and when I have my rack hooked…it happens about 5 minutes into playing gets low and fuzzy first than starts to fade in and out Will
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>far from buddy holly here…Long time metal head hear >I here ya. Metal with an Ampeg? > Pete, bro’, I love ya man, but you gotta keep up with the times. The VH140Cs are > pretty much standard issue for America’s Young Metal Players. Lots of ‘em out > there. I maintain one for a customer who keeps it in his studio just for that > metal grind SS distortion thing. You can get ‘em pretty cheap, they’re rugged > as hell and sound like they do. >This might be something you need to visit a tech to solve. >Personally, I’d replace the tubes and hope that fixed the problem, >but it’s just as likely not to. > These ain’t even got tubes. They do have chorus. > As for this problem, as always try bypassing the FX loop jacks with a straight > cord first. > Ron
Time to buy that Mesa you’ve had your eye on!
>These ain’t even got tubes. They do have chorus.
No tubes? In an Ampeg?????? No comment. Other than that. Pete — And all that was left was to test it. –Dr. Jekyll
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->it does this with straight chord and when I have my rack hooked…it happens >about 5 minutes into playing gets low and fuzzy first than starts to fade in >and out >Will > >>far from buddy holly here…Long time metal head hear > >I here ya. Metal with an Ampeg? > Pete, bro’, I love ya man, but you gotta keep up with the times. The >VH140Cs are > pretty much standard issue for America’s Young Metal Players. Lots of ‘em >out > there. I maintain one for a customer who keeps it in his studio just for >that > metal grind SS distortion thing. You can get ‘em pretty cheap, they’re >rugged > as hell and sound like they do. > >This might be something you need to visit a tech to solve. > >Personally, I’d replace the tubes and hope that fixed the problem, > >but it’s just as likely not to. > These ain’t even got tubes. They do have chorus. > As for this problem, as always try bypassing the FX loop jacks with a >straight > cord first. > Ron
Probably a shitty solder joint heating up enough to make it fade in and out. Just a guess, but on a crate (or recent ampeg/crate) it is very likely. Thorny
>it does this with straight chord and when I have my rack hooked…it happens >about 5 minutes into playing gets low and fuzzy first than starts to fade in >and out
I’d still try patching a cord between the FX out and In jacks. Beyond that, yeah, time for professional help. These amps tend to fix well and stay solid. Can’t say I like them for my style, but they do run well and long for what they cost. Ron – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Will > >>far from buddy holly here…Long time metal head hear > >I here ya. Metal with an Ampeg? > Pete, bro’, I love ya man, but you gotta keep up with the times. The >VH140Cs are > pretty much standard issue for America’s Young Metal Players. Lots of ‘em >out > there. I maintain one for a customer who keeps it in his studio just for >that > metal grind SS distortion thing. You can get ‘em pretty cheap, they’re >rugged > as hell and sound like they do. > >This might be something you need to visit a tech to solve. > >Personally, I’d replace the tubes and hope that fixed the problem, > >but it’s just as likely not to. > These ain’t even got tubes. They do have chorus. > As for this problem, as always try bypassing the FX loop jacks with a >straight > cord first. > Ron
>>These ain’t even got tubes. They do have chorus. >No tubes? In an Ampeg?????? >No comment. Other than that.
I know. Sorta sad. On the better side, it is SLM’s more professional line and they are far superior to Crate production. Ron
>These ain’t even got tubes. They do have chorus. > No tubes? In an Ampeg?????? > No comment. Other than that. > Pete
It’s a CratePeg. a favorite of metalheads throughout the country. think…"like Randall".
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >These ain’t even got tubes. They do have chorus. > No tubes? In an Ampeg?????? > No comment. Other than that. > Pete >It’s a CratePeg. a favorite of metalheads throughout the country. >think…"like Randall".
So it’ll kick over a Marshall stack then? — And all that was left was to test it. –Dr. Jekyll
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>> These ain’t even got tubes. They do have chorus. >> No tubes? In an Ampeg?????? >> No comment. Other than that. >> Pete > It’s a CratePeg. a favorite of metalheads throughout the country. > think…"like Randall".
In other words "Tone City". LOL Lloyd – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> So it’ll kick over a Marshall stack then? > — > And all that was left > was to test it. –Dr. Jekyll
Just wondering what opinions anyone in the group has on this. I have recently purchased a Marshall JCM2000 DSL-401 tube amp and just this last week i’ve noticed something shaking about inside it. It’s started to cause unwanted feedback and causes loud echo’s when its knocked whilst switched on (I know I shouldn’t be doing that). Is this problem related to the tubes? Ive opened it up and can’t see any visible loose wires that are causing the rattling. Any suggestions appreciated. G
Reverb Pan??? dave
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Just wondering what opinions anyone in the group has on this. I have > recently purchased a Marshall JCM2000 DSL-401 tube amp and just this last > week i’ve noticed something shaking about inside it. It’s started to cause > unwanted feedback and causes loud echo’s when its knocked whilst switched on > (I know I shouldn’t be doing that). Is this problem related to the tubes? > Ive opened it up and can’t see any visible loose wires that are causing the > rattling. > Any suggestions appreciated. > G
Sounds like your hearing the reverb tank assy rattling.Doug
yeah, it may be the spring reverb or, if not that, you may have a microphonic valve. Turn the amp on and knock on the top of the amp with your knuckle, if you hear a weird echo-feedback thing then, you may want the valve that’s causing trouble replaced. Stu
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sounds like your hearing the reverb tank assy rattling.Doug
So what’s the best way to fix this? G
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sounds like your hearing the reverb tank assy rattling.Doug
It sounds like it’s the spring reverb. How do I fix this? G
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> yeah, it may be the spring reverb or, if not that, you may have a > microphonic valve. > Turn the amp on and knock on the top of the amp with your knuckle, if you > hear a weird echo-feedback thing then, you may want the valve that’s causing > trouble replaced. > Stu > Sounds like your hearing the reverb tank assy rattling.Doug
Don’t bang on it. <g> – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > It sounds like it’s the spring reverb. How do I fix this? > G > yeah, it may be the spring reverb or, if not that, you may have a > microphonic valve. > Turn the amp on and knock on the top of the amp with your knuckle, if you > hear a weird echo-feedback thing then, you may want the valve that’s > causing > trouble replaced. > Stu > > Sounds like your hearing the reverb tank assy rattling.Doug
> May not be a bladder tank. If not, just turn over on it’s side and connect > a tire pump to the schrader valve and pump with the spout valve open to > allow it to drain. Pump until air comes out of spout. Tank will be about > half filled, disconnect pump and turn upright again.
I know of no RO storage tank that is air over water, that would negate the idea of RO water and the air would constantly be absorbed into the water causing a decrease in pressure and need to re-pressurize the tank. Each RO has its own precharge but most range from 5-10 psi, and you really need the right one for your make and model of RO. Seven psi is common. Gary Quality Water Associates
May not be a bladder tank. If not, just turn over on it’s side and connect a tire pump to the schrader valve and pump with the spout valve open to allow it to drain. Pump until air comes out of spout. Tank will be about half filled, disconnect pump and turn upright again.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Anybody know what I should expect to have as a pressure reading at the port > on the bottom of the tank? My kid thought it was neat to let all the air > out and now I can’t get anything out of the tank. How do I fix this? > Should I just drain the tank with the schrader core removed ( to put the > diaphragm at zero pressure ), then return the core and fill the tank? Or > does there need to be a certain pressure on the tank when it is empty? > Thanks all. > Ken Williams
Boy 7 pounds is the magic number. I drained it and pumped it up to 7 and the next morning the thing worked like a champ. Thanks guys. kw
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > wrotg: >>Anybody know what I should expect to have as a pressure reading at the port >>on the bottom of the tank? My kid thought it was neat to let all the air >>out and now I can’t get anything out of the tank. How do I fix this? >>Should I just drain the tank with the schrader core removed ( to put the >>diaphragm at zero pressure ), then return the core and fill the tank? Or >>does there need to be a certain pressure on the tank when it is empty? >>Thanks all. >>Ken Williams >Air pressure in the pressure tank should be about the lowest pressure >that system ever runs at, or 1 or 2 psi lower. For something like a >pump or well with a pressure switch, that’s easy: If your pump turns >on at 40 psi, set the air pressure to 38 psi. >With a reverse osmosis system this is a little harder, since it >doesn’t have a terribly well-defined pressure setting. Here’s a rule >of thumb I’ve heard: With the "usual" range of input water pressure to >the RO system (about 40 to 60 psi, which is common for many municipal >water systems, and a tad high but not unusual for well systems), set >the air pressure in the RO output tank to about 7 psi, which means >that the RO system can usually generate 8 or 9 psi of output ressure. >If you have a booster pump in the RO system, you might be able to set >your air pressure in the tank considerably higher, maybe 15 or 20 psi. >Now, naturally, this can depend MASSIVELY on your water system >pressure (the input to the RO system), on the quality of your water >(the more gunk the RO system has to remove from the water, the more >differential pressure eat will need), and other such factors. >All in all, I would do this: Take the Schrader valve core out, to make >sure everything is nice and at zero pressure. Make sure no water >comes out of the air side of the tank; if it does, the diaphragm is >history. Then shut off the RO system and depressurize it completely >(for example by running the filtered water faucet until nothing comes >out). Then pump up the air side of the tank to maybe 7 or 8 psi. >Then see whether the system works reasonably well. If it seems to >cycle a lot more than it used to, try to change the air pressure. >Or ask a competent installer who knows the water conditions in your >area. >Good luck! > If I remember right, my Ametek system recommends 7 psi, as suggested. I found it > documented finally somewhere once and wrote it on the bottom of the tank (but I > can’t get to mine easily to read it off for you). As he said, make sure to > disconnect the water line and remove the core and get EVERYTHING out (air and > water – shake it out good – I’ve seen water get trapped along the side under the > bladder). No water should come out of the air fitting, or you have a broken > bladder. Then re-install the air valve and pressureize to 7 psi. At least this > is the value for my system, which is a small bladder tank. Then let set > overnight to refill.
Anybody know what I should expect to have as a pressure reading at the port on the bottom of the tank? My kid thought it was neat to let all the air out and now I can’t get anything out of the tank. How do I fix this? Should I just drain the tank with the schrader core removed ( to put the diaphragm at zero pressure ), then return the core and fill the tank? Or does there need to be a certain pressure on the tank when it is empty? Thanks all. Ken Williams
>Anybody know what I should expect to have as a pressure reading at the port >on the bottom of the tank? My kid thought it was neat to let all the air >out and now I can’t get anything out of the tank. How do I fix this? >Should I just drain the tank with the schrader core removed ( to put the >diaphragm at zero pressure ), then return the core and fill the tank? Or >does there need to be a certain pressure on the tank when it is empty? >Thanks all. >Ken Williams
Air pressure in the pressure tank should be about the lowest pressure that system ever runs at, or 1 or 2 psi lower. For something like a pump or well with a pressure switch, that’s easy: If your pump turns on at 40 psi, set the air pressure to 38 psi. With a reverse osmosis system this is a little harder, since it doesn’t have a terribly well-defined pressure setting. Here’s a rule of thumb I’ve heard: With the "usual" range of input water pressure to the RO system (about 40 to 60 psi, which is common for many municipal water systems, and a tad high but not unusual for well systems), set the air pressure in the RO output tank to about 7 psi, which means that the RO system can usually generate 8 or 9 psi of output ressure. If you have a booster pump in the RO system, you might be able to set your air pressure in the tank considerably higher, maybe 15 or 20 psi. Now, naturally, this can depend MASSIVELY on your water system pressure (the input to the RO system), on the quality of your water (the more gunk the RO system has to remove from the water, the more differential pressure eat will need), and other such factors. All in all, I would do this: Take the Schrader valve core out, to make sure everything is nice and at zero pressure. Make sure no water comes out of the air side of the tank; if it does, the diaphragm is history. Then shut off the RO system and depressurize it completely (for example by running the filtered water faucet until nothing comes out). Then pump up the air side of the tank to maybe 7 or 8 psi. Then see whether the system works reasonably well. If it seems to cycle a lot more than it used to, try to change the air pressure. Or ask a competent installer who knows the water conditions in your area. Good luck! — The address in the header is invalid for obvious reasons. Please reconstruct the address from the information below (look for _).
"kingdjango" wrote > What I originally thought to be paint was peeling off of my walls, but when > I peeled it back I saw that it was revealing the bare plaster underneath. > How do I fix this???
painted wallpaper peeling maybe! try wallpaper adhesive. * Just adding my (indian head) 2 cents worth *
What I originally thought to be paint was peeling off of my walls, but when I peeled it back I saw that it was revealing the bare plaster underneath. How do I fix this???
: What I originally thought to be paint was peeling off of my walls, but when : I peeled it back I saw that it was revealing the bare plaster underneath. : How do I fix this??? : Water damage at one time probably got to your walls. Try plaster repair mixes from your local home center. If that doesn’t work, you may be looking at just patching constantly, or just replacing with drywall.
>What I originally thought to be paint was peeling off of my walls, but when >I peeled it back I saw that it was revealing the bare plaster underneath. >How do I fix this???
You mean what’s peeling is not paint, after all? I’m sure it is. After fifty, sixty years or more, paint eventually peels off from plaster. That’s normal. Scrape off the loose stuff down to the bare plaster, patch any holes or cracks, prime and paint. You should be good for another fifty, sixty years.
Hi, My gf has a 96(?) Nissan Sentra, which is leaking oil. I have found a screw-in unit just above and a little to one side of the oil filter. This unit has wires coming out of it, and a plastic cover over it, and has oil leaking out of it, and down the engine block. Is this the "Oil Pressure Sending Unit" ? If so, why is it leaking and how do I fix it? Just tighten it up? Add some teflon tape to the threads ? Get a new unit ? Thanks in advance
You have a leaking oil pressure sensor (sender) unit. It is not repairable. A 3rd party replacement might cost US$10 to US$20 or so. Replace it. It is possible that incorrect readings from this sensor are reducing engine performance as well as spewing oil. >Hi, > My gf has a 96(?) Nissan Sentra, which is leaking oil. I have >found a screw-in unit just above and a little to one side of the oil filter. >This unit has wires coming out of it, and a plastic cover over it, and has >oil >leaking out of it, and down the engine block. Is this the "Oil Pressure >Sending Unit" ? If so, why is it leaking and how do I fix it? Just tighten >it >up? Add some teflon tape to the threads ? Get a new unit ? >Thanks in advance
webpa
Thanks.
My washing machine has been sounding kind of odd lately. My wife said that grease has been coming from the bottom of the machine for months. What could this be and how do I fix it. Thanks
>My washing machine has been sounding kind of odd lately. My wife said that >grease has been coming from the bottom of the machine for months. What could >this be and how do I fix it.
There should be no "grease" in the machine, maybe "oil". If any significant amount of oil is found/lost it must be coming from the transmission which now likely will need to be replaced, hence the noise. Dan O. – Appliance411.com http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=GE+washer =
A new roof has been installed 2 yrs.ago & now I’m noticing a brown staining coming on to my shingles from the chimney. How do I fix this problem- without replacing shingles ..?
>A new roof has been installed 2 yrs.ago & now I’m noticing a brown staining >coming on to my shingles from the chimney. >How do I fix this problem- without replacing shingles ..?
This sounds like algae staining. There are several products on the market for cleaning roofs–I would look for one that is biodegradable-like Jomax. The problem is that the algae usually will return in time. The next time you get a new roof, ask for "algae resistant" shingles–they have zinc granules which kill the algae spores so the stains won’t appear. The upgrade cost to this type of shingle is less than the cost of one (professional) roof cleaning. Bruce A&B Construction www.1-866-roof-men.com check out new: Roofers Message Board
>A new roof has been installed 2 yrs.ago & now I’m noticing a brown staining >coming on to my shingles from the chimney. >How do I fix this problem- without replacing shingles ..?
Depends. It sounds like rust staining, coming from the flashing or possibly from a metal chimney cap. Is there any staining along the sides of the chimney? If the roofing job was contracted, get the roofer back to look. If the staining is coming from flashing, that should have been part of the roofing job, and any old flashing should have been replaced with new flashing. You could ‘clean’ the shingles to remove the stains, but the stains will just reappear unless you address the source – and the staining indicates that something is breaking down somewhere, which should not be happening on a two-year-old roof. Of course, another possibility is that you have birds, bats, or other brown-stuff-discharging creatures roosting or nesting on or around your chimney… or even a mass of rotting leaves or other organic matter stuck along the upslope side of the chimney. Not common, but it happens. John John Paquay "Building Your Own Kitchen Cabinets" http://home.insightbb.com/~jpaquay/shop.html With Glory and Passion No Longer in Fashion The Hero Breaks His Blade. – Kansas, The Pinnacle, 1975
: : : A new roof has been installed 2 yrs.ago & now I’m noticing a brown staining : coming on to my shingles from the chimney. : : How do I fix this problem- without replacing shingles ..? to add to the advice you’ve already received, many mount tv antennas or a ham radio antenna to the chimney, the straps are usually stainless, but the pole and some other parts are galvanized which result in rust stains… chip
Gas pedal sticking a little bit. It doesn’t stick on full but just before full off. Like when you take your foot off the pedal it sometimes sticks just a touch, basiclly the pedal just doesn’t release the whole way. I think it is the cable. Any ideas and if so how do I fix it? thanks in advance all
Try disconnecting the throttle cable at the throttle body and see if the pedal still does that. If so, it could be something in the pedal mechanism or the cable. If it is the cable, I think it had best be replaced – I don’t think you’re supposed to lubricate them. — Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Gas pedal sticking a little bit. It doesn’t stick on full but just before > full off. Like when you take your foot off the pedal it sometimes sticks > just a touch, basiclly the pedal just doesn’t release the whole way. I think > it is the cable. > Any ideas and if so how do I fix it? > thanks in advance all
I have a window that slides up and down and is a bit tight. How do I fix this? Is there "window" oil or something? Todd
Try some bar soap.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a window that slides up and down and is a bit tight. > How do I fix this? Is there "window" oil or something? > Todd